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You must drive your truck very smoothly. The turbo having to draw in a lot of air is what sucks that filter minder thing down, so if you never get over 10psi, it might not get pulled down. Nevertheless, with that filter, it wouldn't have taken much If you go from that clogged one to a BHAF you will notice a big difference, especially in turbo spool up. Did you just get the truck? Maybe I missed your posting about buying one.Alright I'm caught up now. If the air filter looked like that, you should probably be checking out everything else, along with changing every single fluid. Write down everything you changed and the mileage on a piece of paper or something and throw it in the glove box so when you have any doubts a couple thousand miles from now, you can look and see.

Yep, Dec.5 1989. Why did you think I was 30?

I got my truck when it was bone stock and I have NEVER seen a difference in mileage since. I am really not sure I gained anything with the timing at all. It has better throttle response, maybe some more power but nothing I can justify on the MPG charts.

They need to make a setting with stock fueling but advanced timing for the mileage. Maybe that's what the economy setting on some of them are.

Yeah the asphalt is fine, but that wall makes me think I am at Alcatraz lol.

Guess your wondering how many more hours I am going to stare at this without replying Looks good! Have to do something with that background though lol

So it all works now?

Take the negative terminal off so you can get a good bite with vise grips or anything and just replace the bolt and nuts. I swear battery's have a way of softening the metal in those nuts which is why they strip so easily. Hmm, I have a crazy idea that would fix all those grip problems for good. Have to try it when I get home.What in the hell is going on with the positive terminal? You got nuts on both ends

Get a very thin file (1/8" thick), take the negative terminal off and loosen the bolt or take the bolt out, pry the middle out a little bit and file it down so you can tighten it down more.. The two faces of the terminal that meet (that I'm pointing too) are what you have to file down, you will have to take the bolt out and get pliers on either side to pull it apart and get just enough room for the file to get in there, then file it down a little bit.

Oh, never saw that movie lol. I just used ones like these. You can loosen the bolts all the way and fit just about anything in there. I got all my extra wire from a long welding lead we had.

I have a very bad habit of turning things philosophical..but I can't make any sense of that no matter how many different ways I look at it I have a few ideas of what your talking about but I am not sure.

Yeah they work good. I need to do something different though. I'd like to move all my batteries to the toolbox but I seem to lose a lot of cranking amps when I do that. Have to come up with a new configuration of doing it that will keep the amps up. I have gained and lost many cranking amps simply by rearranging the negatives. Try and put them all over the block instead of the chassis and it cranks over much faster. There are 3 bolts on the engine mounting brackets that bolt the mount to the block and there is a 4th bolt above the hypotenuse of the mount (mounts shaped like a triangle) which is on both sides of the block, I have big negative cables on both bolts and it makes it crank very fast. I think the one positive going to the starter is my only limiting factor now.

Big Honkin' Air Filter lol. Theres a long list of ones that will work. They provide all the air flow you will ever need. Much more than the stock air box. Should last a lot longer than the stock one too. It's advertising really. They produce more power since it's like having no filter on it at all, which is basically true, only thing it keeps out is rocks and birds. This advertising can be seen in a ton of products, that only sell because of the advertising that smooths out their faults, especially on chevy commercials

K&N gain their rank through marketing tactics and the fact that you cannot prove your engine messed up from having a poor air filter. Nobody ever blames them. The truth is, they stay clean, but how do they stay clean?! They use very large pores in their air filters so dirt CAN get through, yet doesn't build up on the air filter, so you think the filter is clean all the time when in fact, it is all going right into the engine. This is also why they never lose flow, because they CAN'T get clogged..Those tires are very good tires. I have used them with long tread wear. I have started using Hankook Dynapro A/T's which are $75 cheaper and have exceptional traction, superior to the Michelins. I am not sure if it comes with the cost of tread life though. Only had 20k on them. Actually I had the version before the AT2's so those might be a little different. I am willing to bet that they will last just as long. I am talking 100k miles a set if you don't burn out and make sure to rotate them.

I don't think you can pick one way or the other based on timing differences. And define performance.. I have driven stock 6 speed 24v's and if you mean throttle response, well I never even noticed any power until I was above 2200 or so, not to mention I haven't had any 5 or 6 speed 24v's ever keep up with me from a stoplight, they always end up at my back bumper. If you mean mileage, yeah I got you beat there too based on that mileage chart of yours, and having your fuel system need pumps and lube and all that other stuff I don't see as an advantage either Now don't take that the wrong way, the 24v does have advantages, though you can match them on a 12V but it takes a lot of skill and know how. I didn't really notice much mileage increase going from 13.5-16* timing so I don't know if 24v's have any advantage having dynamic timing, when I could have left mine at 13.5, start as good as them, and get better mileage than them. I do see a BIG benefit to having a computerized engine though. My idle changes drastically in the winter, you have to hold the pedal down a little to keep it from dieing because the cold makes it idle so low, not an issue with 24v's.. 24v's also have 3cyl idle and a high idle that turns off when the temp gets to 170F, I don't have this either. You can also turn up a 24v with a chip which is obviously much easier than doing all the things I have to do to match what a chip will do. For what you seem to want out of the truck though, I would get the 24v. You might have to mess with fuel pumps and things to make it bulletproof, but then it's smooth sailing. I have many small things that I have to do manually that a 24v does automatically, and I think you would be happier with something that did it automatically. Another thing is you can actually figure out problems with codes with a 24 whereas a 12 makes you look for the problems yourself. The computer has no control over the 12v engine, the only thing it does is look at the sensors and give you gauge readings, it cannot do anything else. More food for thought: You will take more parts of the fuel system apart just to turn up a 12v, than you will to put a fuel pump on a 24v.. As for mileage, 24v's seem to average 20-21 whereas I average around 23. They are BOTH capable of getting 25+ with the right driving (55mph).

I am not a big fan of people who think anything over 100k is worn out, yet I know all too many of those kind. If he can make his truck last, then I think that shows he will make long lasting decisions, rather than spur of the moment ones. People who only go 100k before trading things in do not know how to take care of things. I personally do not have any worries about my truck going another 200k. Then I might need a new clutch, and go another 200k If Obama really made fun of him because of his truck, I've lost all respect for him, not that I had much for him but it just tells me how ignorant our president is.

Alright, this is yours. 6150K8MA-8EKRS 100% sure.

Yeah if your going to get an air filter, get an Amsoil Nanofiber one so you can just clean it with shop air. I been getting the thick papered BHAF and they are junk. They are fine for a little bit but it doesn't take long for the cummins to suck in enough air and dust to completely blacken the thing. When I change it out I can always tell a difference in turbo response. The only reason I use them is my brother gets them for very cheap.

Yeah and that other is about the vehicle speed sensor. Wonder if that means it's drawing too much power or something. Not sure on the VSS.

All of those use the same manual. I am downloading it so I can maybe find the differences between them all. Usually they have subtle differences, basically it's the same as a truck with different seat colors, same truck, different feature..Geez, don't wait for me. Download rate is way down. It will be an hour or more..

Wait for Mike I am only good at the identification game.. I guess it doesn't matter which model it is if your flashing the bios, all of them apply.. http://www.foxconnchannel.com/support/downloads.aspx?ProductModel=P4M800P7MB-RS2H&TypeID=en-us0000001 Motherboard/socket 939/click the first model (6800K8MA-RS) Then the bios list will show that it work's on any of those models..

Damn, it's one of these by Foxconn6100K8MA-RS6100K8MA-RSH6150K8MA-8EKRS6150K8MA-8EKRSH6150K8MA-8KRS

They are the same thing. The obdII goes through the CCD.

If that automatic is wore out you will probably end up spending the same on rebuilding it as you will making the 24V bulletproof, maybe more. I don't know much about how often this 53 block cracks. I think it's the hot rodders that make them crack, but I am not sure. That year 12V is pretty golden, everybody wants them, especially if it's an extended cab with rear doors. They are the only year 12V quad cab with doors back there. Even if the transmission is not wore out, they wear quickly if you turn it up, and by that I mean they are designed for the stock power and hardly any more than that.

People don't like them because their map is based solely on the big cam 400 so it is hard to tune for other setups. Just make sure if you hook it up that you don't weld anything or mess anything up to the point that you have to buy new things to get it back to stock setup in case it turns out not spooling up at all.