ISX

You should be a weatherman JAG... Turn your tv on lol.

The high and low should have continuity through them to get it to run as you probably know. It goes through the PCM for some reason but I don't think there is much problem there. Have you checked to see if the relay still works? You can pull it and hook 12 volts to the 86 and 85 terminals with the relay pulled and see if it clicks, though checking for continuity between the other 2 contacts would be better.

Rotella is also amber. They said that was hydraulic fluid though. I've seen clear and amber fluids.

Free "microsoft word". http://www.openoffice.org/

Apparently some dont put the dot on anymore as its apparently more the wheels fault these days. Who knows. I'm not a tire specialist lol.

Is this a dot of any kind or just bird crap? If its a dot put it at the valve stem.

There is a yellow dot on the tire. Line that up with the valve stem and it will be balanced...or so the people at the wheel factory told me. Hmm or this. http://www.tireteam.com/blog/view/what-are-these-red-and-yellow-dots-on-my-tires

I have the fs2500..oil is still black.

I'll definitely try all of this and see if anything comes out in the wash. I need to pull the radiator and just look in it. I think if I pull the bottom hose I can see the actual coils.

I'll have to look into that. Takes a long time to get hot and almost seems like something happens that sets it off since it can be at 210 for a longgg time, then just starts getting hot.

My cherokee has had this problem for a few months now. I changed the head gasket a few weeks ago and it barely made a difference other than fixing all the burning oil. It is fine for like half an hour, then it just starts getting carried away. It goes to 210 just fine, hangs there for a long time, but then it just starts creeping up to 220-230. I had to take my dad to the airport today in kansas city which is 80 miles or something away and being a business trip on his part I didn't need this thing overheating. I got a thermostat and water pump and changed them out, however the old ones were fine. Thermostats both opened in boiling water around the same time (new vs old) and the water pump had no cavitation at all. The belt was old and I didn't know if it was slipping so I also put a new belt on. Low and behold, same issue. This time it was slighhhhhtly better, going maybe an hour before it tipped the 215 scales. When I changed the head gasket I discovered the upper radiator hose had a bubble in it. The hose had come apart and collapsed inside the tube so it looked like you put a needle halfway into the hose rubber and blew a bubble of rubber that effectively closed off the hose. Replaced that as well. So I have all this crap and it has barely made a change. Yesterday when I dumped all the antifreeze it was kinda muddy, making me think the radiator might just be completely full of crap. My oil level is perfect after weeks have gone by from the head gasket so I doubt there is any oil/water mixing going on. I just think the radiator is completely corroded. Is there anything I can do to test this or fix this or any other ideas you guys might have? I can't see the coils in it because of the right angle plastic radiator cap housing thing. Nice thing is everything is so cheap that I could replace the whole engine for $5 it seems

Well I'll be damned. Thanks for the explanation.

Can someone explain this silicon thing? I mean silicon is a metal so how does a crappy air filter increase it? Would think it would just let in more oxygen Apparently there is something to be learned here.

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=220 You will also need this. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=cat&id=29 And the password is mopar1973man.com

Holy crap! Where is this? Will there be a move in BBQ????

I have only had a water pump fail out of nowhere. I look at my truck all the time and never saw it do anything weird, then I was driving and it started making noise, popped the hood and watched it wobbled around the bearing. Went to the store and changed it. Other than that, I have had a tire blow out from running too long on tires (they were bald), so that was my own arrogance. I had an intercooler boot blow off at 40psi because the impact wrench beats the crap out of those threads and stripped it partially out, I knew it did but it was still somewhat tight so I ignored it. I carry a 1/4" drive set with me so I put it back on and just kept the boost low. So to me the water pump should be replaced every 100k just for the sake of it not just going out instantly. It's only $30-40 so it sure saves the cost of a tow truck or overheated engine. Aside from that, I think the same way as W&F, if you don't maintain it, bring the toolbox. I know every inch of my trucks condition so I take only what I know will break along with the 1/4" drive set and maybe some pliers. I take some oil but I don't bring any spare parts as if I have a doubt, they should have already been changed. On cumminsforum there was a thread like this and those guys had more tools in their truck than I have in my garage Make sure the spare tire and everything to change it are all there.

You guys do know there are labels on each pump I never look at the color. Missouri uses whatever color they want on everything so it pretty worthless.

I want a number. I have done some interesting things with our weed eater

Wonder what the HFRR of gas is.

Yes 1* cam is 2* crank and yes its always crank from what I've seen. 12 valve timing is 12.5-14* BTDC on the crank.

40 crankshaft degrees. Don't ask me why they need that much play.

Is this thread ever going to die :banghead::banghead::ahhh: is this thing fixed or what!

8.2 feet. Average piston velocity in feet per second at 103 RPM is 28. Our trucks are 1.35 FPS at 103 RPM. However, at a speed around 2125, we match piston speeds (about). So very similar speeds at working RPM. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/W%C3%A4rtsil%C3%A4-Sulzer_RTA96-C

Me Unloaded:1-2 --- Dont use it2-3 --- 17003-4 --- 19004-5 --- 1800Loaded with our 4000lb TT1-2 --- 18002-3 --- 20003-4 --- 22004-5 --- 2000

My dad uses rails along the insides of the bed rails. Solid as a rock and is definitely slick.