ISX

This might help you a little. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/3692-What-oil-filter-do-you-use

Got 20 minutes so far and I haven't even got to the parts most people know. I started at the very basic basic of the pump and worked my way on to why everything was the way it is, but 20 min later and I'm still at the front half of the pump (not the AFC/fuel plate/all that crap). BUT, this will be the ultimate P7100 video. Absolutely ultimate. Hour long, make popcorn, discovery channel kinda video.

This might be a while to do anything else. Internet is down, using it by tethering phone. Can't really upload youtube stuff with it having almost no upload speed. Anyhow I got every cover taken off the P7100 and will exploit as many parts as I can. I have the delivery valve/plunger, all that stuff out as well. I put the plate in to show how the governor arm works and how to adjust it. I might have to make an ultimate video an hour long showing every single thing you can do to the pump and how stuff works.

Today, I am taking the P7100 off for no apparent reason. I will have to take it off later for the tappet cover gasket so I have nothing better to do today so I'm gonna pull it, take a million pics, etc. Then I can explain some of the harder things to get pics of on the pump. I did this once before at school on an 8.3 p7100 cummins so it shouldn't be too bad. They wouldn't let me dig into the pump there though. I'm gonna go start on it now before 7AM hits --- Update to the previous post... Here we go. I'd say it could be done in an hour. I had to make another gear puller since someone seemed to have taken the other one I made.

I know it's insignificant, but you wanted to know why and that's my guess.

The way I see it, the thinner oil is needed when cold so that the oil can get everywhere. When it is thicker, it might not get everywhere as well so you will have more wear on things until the oil gets warmed up.

Sounds like it's bleeding the pressure back because of a leak or something. Maybe the fluid is low now as well. Air leak would make it mushy the entire time I would think, this sounds more like it working but the hydraulic seal isn't holding up and it's letting the pressure drain back into the reservoir. Either way it definitely sounds like a master/slave issue.

Didn't think of that. Nothing small about it

Not sure how I missed this thread. I woulda gone to that if I knew about it! Going back to where I wrecked this weekend, I'll have to give you all a rundown of the entire scenario

Where did all this come about? Me changing the way the engine is set up completely? If I had it my way things would be very differently done. I think I would put an electric fan right behind the a/c condenser so it would pull heat out of it but at the same time push air through the intercooler/radiator and still not interfere with being at the front of the engine (which SUCKS). The fuel filter would be in a better location of course, same with a number of other things. I will redesign the whole thing one of these days.I realized the thing your grandpa said a while back. The more you interfere with nature, the more you resist flow, the less efficient you become.

The stock automatic tranny is not built for any kind of power, especially not the kind of power taking the fuel plate out gives you. There is no simple fix other than rebuilding the tranny using better components that can handle the power.

Happens in the fuel filter vid, falls down in engine compartment, no oil though.

The early 12V's used a spin on filter and the later 24V's used a different filter altogether so this is only for the midrange. I don't know why I had so much trouble with this one, the video camera always makes me screw up but I left it all unedited because I don't want to edit it right now. So here is the unedited version, will make it better tomorrow, and add an article.

Wellll I went out and did some messing around. If you get right down to it, all that happens when you step on it a little is the rack moves forward, giving it more fuel, making it start right up. There seems to be something tedious going on that causes the truck to start worse and worse over the years to the point where it needs some throttle to get it to start right up. I started it a ton of times, first watching the rack. When I let it crank forever, the rack did seem to move forward (more fuel) as the engine was cranking over. As the engine began to crank faster, the thing started. With the engine off I would think the governor weights would be at full fuel since the throttle is set at idle speed and the engine isn't running, but that doesn't seem to be the case at all. Seems to be relaxed in a midpoint state, waiting for engine speed to build. Guess I don't get why that is. I found a forbidden screw that adjusts the rack which I of course adjusted thinking the rack must not be far enough ahead. Well that didn't do anything but raise the idle ~30RPM. I think I will mess with that screw some more and check out some other things. I wonder if worn out governor springs have anything to do with it. I need to check out a truck that works correctly and see exactly what it does.

Frantz TP Bypass oil filter return line.

Guess I shoulda tried it on there. I gotta change the fuel filter, have it in the truck and everything.

That issue plagues all 12V's, many say it is normal but I don't think they would have sold if the salesman at the dealership told you to pump the gas. It is very interesting that it doesn't do it when cold, that would be the most likely time to need to crack the throttle IMO since the engine is cranking slower. If you go on cumminsforum, theres a million other people with the same issue, they just ignore it. I've been trying to find the culprit but I think it is something very elusive when trying to find the cause. I have some theories but lack equipment to try it out, not too fancy of equipment but fancy enough to cost a little bit of money. One thing I don't get is I can run my truck all day, turn it off, start it back up, still won't start until 10 cranks, though starts on half a crank with the throttle. Does exactly the same thing cold or hot out, cold or hot engine temp, I have no clue what the deal is. The fuel shutoff solenoid kicks it way out of the way but, hmm. All this talk has sparked some ideas. I'm going out to the truck to try some more things God I love having that AFC off, just the aluminum plate over the hole and I'm in, if only it were that easy with other things

I was outside and didn't want to go get it! My tripod is only 5" tall anyways. I would be better off using my "other" tripod

It was tough doing it all one handed, the whole finger in the oil bit is something I don't do, usually just spill it over all over the gasket then rub it around lol, but I couldn't do that and hold the camera too well. I'll edit in a list of how to do it now.

I don't get it. Mine is pitch black in a month. When I change the filter every year, the turbo sound is incredibly different. I'd like to get an actual water column and test it.

A while back there was some talk on getting some guides on doing the things we normally seem to take for granted, like the knowhow of changing your oil. Theres some things some people may not know so I figured I would go over them all. If anyone has anything else to add, by all means let us know. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=89CtGigAgfA Alright here is the writeup on how to do this. The first thing is to try and get as much oil as possible into the oil pan. An engine that has been running recently (within maybe 3 hours) still has a lot of oil all over the engine interior and you need to let as much of this residual oil drain to the oil pan as possible before draining. You can change it right after it has been ran but the engine will be hot and so will the oil, making it a little hard on your hands when oil gets on them. It also leaves old oil in the engine which isn't necessarily bad but why change the oil if your just going to leave some of the old oil in the engine. If you want to do this, let the oil drain for an hour (or even overnight to get every drop). Sometimes it is better for wintertime when oil barely drains so draining a hot engine would be faster and allowing it to drain overnight ensures it all gets out. Keep in mind the new oil should be in a warm spot to easily flow into the engine. Next step is the oil filter. For some reason they always tend to tighten over time (or because you used a wrench to get it on last time) so you may need to use a wrench to get it off. It really doesn't matter if you damage it since you are going to throw it away anyways, but a strap wrench usually prevents any damage. If you do have to use something intense like channel locks, make sure to grab the bottom half of the filter because you might crush the filter and if it is on the top half, you may damage the filter head threads. Ideally, you should be able to get it off by hand (which is why you put it on by hand). I can always get mine off by hand but they are always tighter than when I put them on (or maybe I'm getting weaker). Depending on the year of truck, you should be able to wiggle it out without spilling a drop of the oil inside the filter, then you can dump the oil in the pan the engine oil is currently draining into. What you just unscrewed the filter from should be cleaned with a rag. Dirt gets up in there sometimes and it isn't the best idea to smash the new filter's gasket upon debris. I attached a pic of what I am talking about at the end. Make sure the gasket from the old filter is not up there as well, if you forget to check and put a new filter on on top of another gasket, the 2 gaskets will not seal and the oil pressure will blow out between them. I have never had an oil filter leave that gasket behind but you never know, you will know when you forgot to check though.. Now get your new filter and write the current date and mileage on it with a sharpie BEFORE you do anything else with the filter (I did the next steps first and it made it a pain). Next step is to take the gasket off the new filter and get clean engine oil all over it until the whole thing is wet with oil, then push it back into the groove you took it out of. Now you can fill the filter to about an inch before it overflows, this will give you room to play before the oil spills out when putting it back in the truck. NOTE: If you spilled oil all over the place getting the filter out, you probably will spill a bunch of oil on the way back in, so you will have to judge how much oil to put in based on the degrees of tilt you had to attain to get the old one out. The previous tip about filling the oil filter is not recommended these days because debris can get into the filter/oil during the installation process and that oil is unfiltered and goes straight to the turbo bearings which is not good. However, I still believe it to be better than having the turbo starve for oil for the time it takes the filter to fill up. Just be aware of this and know that any oil that goes into the filter (the big hole in the center) is the same oil that goes out from the filter and into the turbo..the holes on the outer ring of the filter are the intake holes that send the oil through the filter media). Spin the oil filter on hand tight. I think the filters say go to where the gaskets gets tight as if you had the filter in a free spin and the gaskets resistance stopped it, then tighten 3/4 turn. I get it as tight as I can by hand and call it good. If you don't have good grip then you may need to resort to a filter wrench. This means dry hands dry filter, an oily filter tightened by hand is not exactly the tightest Over time the filter tightens, I think because the gasket swells or something. Putting it on only hand tight ensures it can be taken off without channel locks or something drastic (hopefully). After the oil is drained, tighten the plug back up. My manual says 60 ft/lbs, and I wouldn't go a ft/lb more than that! You shouldn't have to take the plug out to drain the oil since it somehow drains out 4 little things on the sides so you should never have to start the plug into the threads, meaning you will never crossthread it. If you do take it all the way out, just make sure it threads in a couple full turns by hand so you know for sure it isn't crossthreaded. Fixing a screwed up oil plug can be expensive and laborous on these things. You can get lucky and thread it the next size up but it's still a lot of hassle for something so simple to not screw up. Now your filter should be in and tight, oil pan plug should be in and tight, so fill it up with oil. Every truck seems to be different these days so look up how much it takes. 94' 12V's take 10 quarts while 95'-98' 12V's take 11. Put the oil fill cap back on, start the truck, let it run a minute or 2, then turn it off. Check for leaks around the oil filter just in case you didn't get it tight enough by hand. If at all possible, leave it off for 3+ hours on level ground, then go back and check the oil level on the dipstick. Many people start it then instantly check the oil and wonder why it is not at the perfect mark. The perfectly full mark is an engine that has been sitting for a long time on a level ground. An engine that has been running has oil all over the engine and it takes a long time for it all to accumulate back into the oil pan, giving you a false reading until then. The dipstick has 2 marks; a full mark, and an add mark, with "SAFE" in between. The add mark denotes 2 quarts low. You have now changed your oil

If you ever pull a trailer, the effect is multiplied a number of times.. I was pulling steeep country backroad hills with our trailer at 1300RPM in 5th and it had no trouble giving me a ton of boost to let me get back up to speed after the hill/curve was over. I drive that route a lot and before I always had to downshift, it had no boost down there so if I left it in 5th, it would just blow smoke everywhere since the turbo wasn't doing anything.

Looked in the ash tray and saw no ash..

Now you see what I mean. Imagine the valves on max lash 15/30 and you can think of what a piece of crap it is. I'm going to set it back to 6/15 when the thing cools off today.

Everyone tells me they wish it was like that right now. You can beat the cold with layers but you can only strip so far in the heat and even then you're still hot. Personally, I love it. I wish it was like this year round. I hate the cold, hate the snow, hate listening to my truck knock on a cold start lol. The only reason I hate the cold is because of all the layers, I don't like having all the restriction to move, though last year I found I can use enough t shirts to still be pretty mobile and be warmer than a coat, but still, I can just wear nothing right now