ISX

The manifold is split into 2 halves, which are a bank of the 1st three cylinders and the last three. You have to take the width of the manifold where you want to drill (right where the manifold necks down into the turbo) and divide it by 4. Go in that amount from the edge. So if it was 4 inches wide, you would go in an inch from the side. Dead center would obviously hit the divider, as you found out.

When I was in college my grids were running for a longer period of time than the truck was running without them. About 5 times a day they cycled, and I would drive back across the street, for weeks. Batteries are fine, albeit all 4 of them, which are already 6+ years old.

Alright that's completely different from what you were saying I thought it did it when you let off. As for that, that looks more like something not in the engine, something like a slight death wobble. The engine sounds fine and looks like it is all running fine so I think it is a steering/suspension component issue. Maybe even something with the U-joints. I am not the greatest steering/suspension guy so someone else can give you a little more input. I am thinking something gets unbalanced and sometimes it stays in balance, but once it gets knocked out of round (bump in the road) then it knocks it all out of whack and does the vibrating. Still thinking about this though, the movie helped a ton.

Yes it only goes down to 3.31 ratio..

You can hit the switches while the truck is already running. Once the criteria is met (low IAT temp and a coolant temp below the threshold), the high idle will kick in.

I got a few other ideas but since you seem apt to do a video that would help a bunch. It's always hard to describe a weird problem like that with just words lol.

Is it like the throttle is sticking and jolting back as you let off. I think there was a recall on that. Hmm that wouldn't cause it to hop exactly. It sounds like it is getting a little then a lot of fuel rapidly but letting off slowly controls it. I can't think of how it would do something like that. Actually if you have to let off slowly then the governor is not going back to 0 fuel. I still can't figure out how the governor would make it hop. I know there are things in it that adjust the rates of change, that might be an isochronous thing. Maybe someone else will have some ideas. I would like to see a video of this or something. I will keep thinking about ideas though.There is one thing that could be possible such as oil being sucked through the turbo under high boost conditions and a little gets into the intake and causes the engine to run without diesel, but rather running on the oil it is sucking in. Far fetched but so is your issue. I did read something about a guy with a VP44 truck where he let off after WOT and the sudden rush of full fuel to 0 fuel would actually suck the fuel system dry somehow, or something like that, but this was WOT to 0 instantly, and it killed his engine when it did it, you say it hops continuously for a while. If you have a 5spd and it was doing this, the direct connection (being a manual) would be restarting the engine constantly. But that is far fetched as well. Hmmmm

I think you know what the engine sounds like when it is getting fuel and isn't, how it knocks when you give it fuel and it is prius quiet when you let off, did it sound like it was getting fuel while it was doing this shuttering? Like getting fuel then not, then fuel then not.. You say it was hopping and that makes me wonder about some things but I want to know this part first. Basically when you let off, the governor pulls the throttle to shut, as in 0 fuel. This means the injectors/pump are basically out of the engine, like you turned the key off. The turbo would be spooling back down after a WOT run as well. I am just wondering if the governor is screwing up and not going all the way back, though I might be thinking wrong about this.

Your method will only work with the alternator (cranking the engine backwards) as the intake valve will go down and come back up at the point of valve overlap. If you went forwards the valve would go down and back up and you will be close to BDC on the bottom of the compression stroke. So if you do it, make sure your cranking the engine over backwards. Or just watch the exhaust valve and make sure the valves are overlapping, it's not that hard to watch a valve an inch away

Because I was talking about swapping in a 2.73 rear... It would be like starting out in 2nd with his current 3.54's if he were to start out in 1st with the 2.73's.

The Dana 80 only goes down to 3.31. Plus you would lose some of your starting ability since 1st gear would now be higher. By having the gear vendors, you can stay with stock gearing and be able to gain a gear in each gear, since you can put it in OD in each gear. They also make over under units I think, so you can be in 1st, 1st UD, 1st OD..so a 5spd will have 15 theoretical gears. I just looked at their site and did some calculations and it would make me do 70 at 1585 rather than the 2050 I am at now. I think that's cutting it close to being too low.

They will run if the engine is cold and by that I mean under 60F. You know they are running by the volt gauge sway, if it is still swaying you know it is just an issue with the light. The light just gets power (+) from a fuse on the side of the dash and the PCM sends the negative (-) to turn the light on.

Check the fuse in the panel on the side of the dash. Then check the light bulb itself.

If the engine is turning over backwards the cycles would be [*]Intake [*]Exhaust [*]Power [*]Compression [*]Intake [*]Exhaust [*]... So going backwards when the intake got back to the top, you would actually be a few degrees into the exhaust stroke. This will work fine but since the one you watched will now have both valves loose (because you are on valve overlap), you would do it's running mate. So if you watched #1, you would adjust the lash on #6, and all the valves that you adjust with it that are shown in the manual. Then you watch number 6 so you can do 1 and all the valves you adjust with it. If you watch that intake valve while you go backwards, you will see once the intake valve comes back up that the exhaust starts to open before the intake is all the way back up. This is the valve overlap and ideally you would just stop once you saw the exhaust start to move but it really doesn't matter. Either stop when the intake is fully closed or when the exhaust starts to open, either way you have 113* on the damper room for error.. As far as the intake valve going back up and when it is finally fully closed being in the combustion, the piston you watched that happen on would be 10* into the compression stroke, and it's running mate would be 10* into the exhaust stroke. That is going forwards, now if you went backwards with the alternator, the intake valve would go up and close 6.2* into the exhaust stroke, and it's running mate would be 6.2* into the compression stroke. So no matter how you look at it, none of them are on combustion.

I get 17 pulling our trailer around at 70 and never letting off. Time for you to learn how to fool for trailer towing If I, a person with a 12V, can figure out how to get you from 17-23.5, then you, a person with the 24V, can figure out how to get the trailer mileage up as well. A semi truck with 80k gets lets say 6. Using that logic we can say your truck and trailer with a combined weight of, hmm was it 15,000 or so, that works out to 32mpg. Might be a little off with that but I tried it several ways and it was always 32. Still there are DT466 out there pulling a ton getting 13mpg so there is definitely room for improvement with our trucks.

The kicker is it will be almost 80F thursday, and 55F tomorrow.

Ya know Mike, you used to get what, 17mpg, and were fine with it because of excuses you thought to be true with winter and you complained about fuel prices then. Now you get 23.5mpg because of the fooler. If I calculate it out, in comparison to what mpg you got before (17), the $4.259 is actually only $3.081. So now what do you have to complain about

I think I would have traded my mega cab too if I saw that for sale Incredibly nice truck, and being in Florida makes it even better (windows down all year).

Somehow we managed to get a couple inches of snow overnight. But it is more of this slushy freezing crap that is about 10x more slick than any "snow". It is like driving on ice BUT, I think everyone knows how slush is if you only drive with it on one side of the vehicle. So you are hitting constant deep and shallow slush spots that literally pull the truck off the road. I had the dakota sideways 3 times before I finally told the people at work I wasn't coming, and that was only 5 miles into the 35 mile journey to work. I was going 20mph in 4wd perfectly straight and it just whipped sideways from the slush density constantly. You can deal with real snow no matter how deep given the right tires, but this crap is nuts. There are more cars in the ditch than when we got 2ft a month ago. Interesting how the worst stuff happens at 32-34F. We got snow and rain covered so mother nature throws a curveball Keeps you on your toes I guess I am going to try and turn that valve thing into a calculator so you can put in damper degree and it will say where the valves are, and what cycle each piston is on, and maybe some other things.

Yeah, you can screw up TDC pretty badly and still be fine. The closest ones are the 113 ones, so you don't even need to do anything fancy to find TDC like taking the timing gear cover off and matching the dots or pushing in the timing plug. All you gotta do is bar the engine over, if you are going clockwise you would watch #1 or #6 (depending on which TDC you are on) and watch the exhaust valve close and once the intake starts to move, stop. Actually that will get you really close to TDC. Then do the same thing for the other TDC by watching the opposite valves, so if you watched 1, watch 6. Now using the alternator, you would watch the intake valve close and stop when the exhaust started to move, because it rotates counterclockwise. But yeah, all the people spending hours getting the timing plug to move just to set the valves (12v thing) are wasting their time. It doesn't need to be any more accurate than the way I just mentioned, and even the way I mentioned is probably more accurate. I heard that the plug can be off actual TDC. So you can't use it for timing since it can be off, and it isn't necessary for valve lash since it doesn't need to be any more accurate than the way I just mentioned. You could just feel the valves on #1 and #6 and as long as both of them are tight on one of the pistons (valve is being pushed down, and since it is both then they are on valve overlap), you are good to go. They will be loose on the other piston. That's all the more accurate it has to be, and you can even screw that up a little and be fine. I mean you got 113* damper rotation (damn near a 3rd of rotation) before a valve starts to open, if you can screw up that badly then your pretty talented.

Well this took me long enough but I finally got it all figured out. The numbers mean how many degrees the damper has to rotate before the valve starts to move, this is either direction, not just rotating it clockwise. The red numbers are the valves you set in the book method, the green ones are the open valves. The open valves are percentages showing how far the valve is open, so fully open is 100%.

Yeah I have a couple. Old one http://www.youtube.com/user/ISXX New one http://www.youtube.com/user/Axidias79

If you got any video requests just let me know. Theres probably 100 videos spread out on this site (unlisted on my channel). The static site has a lot of them as well. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/ I have 210 videos right now, just a matter of which ones I want to link people to --- Update to the previous post... Oh good, I can spread out the payments then.

Will paypal allow a 2 cent transaction?

I just noticed your the 1000th member. Not sure what you win. I'll give you free advice or something