ronman

Plenty of tread left, but the date code is 5006 so I guess it's time to replace the old Michelins. This happened at 75mph, and fortunately the lady tailgating me in the Miata with the top down didn't get behind me for several miles. :o Ripped the trailer wiring adapter out of the taillight harness and a piece of the tire came up and cracked the lens pretty good. Fender is salvageable but only with a lot of work. Rest of the bed will need lots of hammering to make right. If anybody in central Florida has a line on a decent dually bed for a good price, I'm listening!

Just like the title says... the truck won't shift out of 1st at any throttle position unless I take my foot completely off the throttle, then get back on it. Once it's out of 1st and past ~28mph, it shifts 2-3 and 3-4 completely normally. It will try to kick down into 1 if I go WOT/WFO under about 45mph. And if I floor it at low speed, it'll hold 1st all the way to redline, and won't shift. Is this a governor issue? I replaced the solenoid and sensor back in 2010 with dealer parts. I'm ready to order the Suncoast governor kit, I just want to make sure it's (probably) not something else...

Negative, my simple reader just shows a persistent P0122 due to my flaky Timbo APPS. I may be able to get to a Modus next week...

When the governor failed last time, it wouldn't do the 2-3 shift at anything under like 2500rpm. 1-2 was fine, I think. It's been close to three years...

Nobody?

This started about a week ago. It'll hold first all the way to redline and won't shift unless I lift my foot off the gas, and until I get to about 30mph I have to be VERY gentle with the accelerator or it'll downshift. Once I'm into 2nd and past the kickdown threshold, it shifts normally 2-3 and 3-4. It also downshifts fine. I replaced the governor solenoid and sensor about 3 years ago with Mopar parts; I want to say it was the AE or AF revision? I'm thinking it's the problem. Temps are fine, and while the bands *do* need adjusted, the trans was gone through about 100k ago and it's always worked fine. So, 1.) Do you think it's a governor issue and2.) Is the GM/Delphi governor that Suncoast sells any better?edit since I thought for sure I had a signature: Truck is an '00 3500 2wd auto (duh).

Yeah, I found the one on Geno's. I'm looking into aftermarket water separator setups now, which is perfect since I just put on a Vulcan big line kit a few weeks ago. :banghead:

Cummins part number for the water drain on the fuel filter housing on my '00 truck. Mine is leaking like a sieve and I've already rebuilt it twice in the last month so I'm going to give up on it and replace the whole flippin' thing!

Well, we've got it 'retained' with some thin, aluminum wire creatively wrapped around the connector and down to the body of the transmission. You can pull on it quite hard before it moves, but not as hard as you could if, say, both clips were engaged. I really don't want to add this to the growing list of "crap to check every couple weeks."

Somehow I managed to break the black plastic bit that the clips on the connector engage to hold in place, and so my transmission is hanging on by nothing more than simple friction. I know I, going to have to drop the valve body to replace it, my question is this: where the heck do I get the connector?

I was pretty sure I had my temp knob centered, but when I got it back together I had the same issue - either full cold or full hot, with no in-between. I'm gonna try your reindexing suggestion, and hopefully it'll work. It's finally about to start getting cold down here. :D

Get this: http://shop.siriusxm.com/xm/ctl10600/cp49750/si4263737/cl1/fm_direct_adapter_for_powerconnect_vehicle_kits It's a powered relay that switches from the external antenna to the FM transmitter in the XM radio. My truck was set up this way for almost 3 years before I had to replace the stereo when the stocker died.

These are stock '03+ brakes. I put this in the wrong forum. Your brakes are a direct swap to '00-02 trucks, you just need the rotors, pads, and caliper brackets. Can someone move this to the 98-02 forum please?

Oh right, I forgot - all the parts were comped and I didn't pay for anything at all, so that's a totally appropriate comparison. :rolleyes:I guess I should have Photoshopped over all the logos, and converted the pics to greyscale, and instead put up with questions from people who want to know what they're looking at.

Doing the big brake swap and shocks tomorrow after work. Still gotta pick up the GM wheel cylinders (and Speedbleeders to fit; I already have them up front) and some cheap fluid to flush the lines before I put in some Amsoil.

Here's a video of my APPS voltage test: --- Update to the previous post... So I pulled the APPS off tonight, and after tapping on it a couple times, I put everything back together and it worked perfectly fine - for about 15 seconds, and then it started doing the same thing again. It's intermittently going between dead pedal and rough running and normal running right now, so I'm like 99.9% sure it's the APPS. In those first 15 seconds I was able to smoke the tires, so I don't believe it's the VP. I went ahead and ordered Timbo's APPS, so I should have it Tuesday or Wednesday.

No, I haven't replaced the apps yet.

I'll get that tomorrow, I had to go out of town on business.

Drove the truck into work this morning and everything was perfectly normal. Left work at 5, it fired up even more quickly than usual, with just the tiniest bump of the key, and seemed to be idling fine. Backed out of the parking space fine, and it wasn't til I pulled out of the parking lot that I noticed it sounded off. And then it started chugging, forcing me to shift it into neutral and keep the revs around 1200 to keep it alive. I pulled into the nearest parking lot to see what I could see, thinking maybe one of the intercooler boots blew off or something, but they looked fine. I tried revving it with the throttle cable, and it builds revs pretty quick, and only as it really starts going does the problem make itself apparent. I managed to limp the 9 miles home at under 35mph (easier thanks to stupid traffic) running like crap the whole way. The smoke was only the initial part of the trip, while the motor was still cold. I have no check engine light, and the only codes are P0500 and P1693. I have had 3 APPS-related codes in the last few months, which have gone away as quickly as they've come up. Thoughts?

No power mods on my truck. The governor and sensor are new Mopar parts as of about 5 months ago. There is no driveability issue aside from the OD locking itself out every now and then. Also, tonight I verified with an IR thermometer that, while the trans temp and OD OFF lights were on in a parking lot, the top of the trans cooler was at 165 and the bottom was hovering around 130. So this clearly seems like an electrical issue to me, and after putting about 30 miles on it tonight, I'm very satisfied with the performance of the trans and converter.

Finally got everything buttoned up tonight and fired it up, only to notice a small, but steady stream of ATF coming out near the front of the trans. Further tracing of the leak found a hole worn through the hard line that runs from the heat exchanger up to the trans cooler. So, I cut that worn section out and fitted a section of hose and clamps in place to hold over til I get the new lines ordered. Anyway, after that drain-and-refill exercise, we took it off the jacks and loaded tools and such in the bed, and headed home. About 2 miles in (and this is in 4am traffic, mind you, i.e., non-existant) with some basic testing of functionality like downshifts, WOT 1-2 and 2-3, lockup, etc. and after a sharp right turn, the trans temp warning light came on. OD never locked out, and the warning light went away after about 8 seconds. Since I was only a half-mile from home at this point I took it easy and pulled in the driveway. Immediately I popped the hood and went for the trans cooler. It was warm, but I could hold my hand on it as long as I wanted without any effort. So, my question is, could it be a sensor issue? There may have been some water or fluid in the main connector on the trans. I do not have any gauges yet, but I am definitely going to start shopping for a trans temp. One other thing: in reverse, and only under throttle, the truck makes almost a rattling sound. It sounds like it's coming from the transmission; before I put in the new FTI converter, it was kind of a high-pitched whine (but still only in reverse) whereas now it's more of a gravelly, rattling medium-pitch sound. Any ideas what that might be?

4 months is a pretty small leak. I'm shooting a can in every 2 months, and the price of a can of 134 has gone up enough to make me want to try to find it. Fortunately I have access to a Matco sniffer and some other pro gear for leak detection...

So, my buddy and I dropped the trans yesterday in preparation for the install of my new FTI converter. The trans is currently at a buddy's shop having the Superior shift kit and some new seals installed. Anyway, in looking at older posts, I see that the stock converter has 6 welded bungs for the bolts. The converter I pulled out of my truck has a billet bottom plate, and aside from color looks like a twin of my FTI. Of course, all of these billet converters look the same, so that doesn't mean a thing. Anyway, can any of you experts ID one based solely on a couple of markings? This is the old one: I'd like to know whose it is, because it flippin' SUCKS.

Actually it's $3.77, and it's well over a dollar a quart more than Dex3, which is currently $2.47 here. Also, finding enough +4 is always a problem for me. The last three times I've serviced the transmission, I've had to hit two or three stores to get enough fluid... And on top of that, Dex3 can be bought in gallon jugs, which are easier to deal with and a little cheaper still.

Yeah, I've thought about that. I've been driving with the radio off so I can hear any odd noises and so far, I haven't heard anything. The reimbursement check for this job (500 miles from home!) can't come soon enough, I tell ya!