BART

Just a REAL STUPID thought, don't laugh...How about the "clock spring" in the steering wheel? I am having a similar noise and it's coming from inside the truck in the steering column/steering wheel. I've heard about these springs and this may be in my future. Now I just need to learn how to fix it without popping the airbag. I only say this because NWingert said it "sounds like a spring winding up and popping".

My brother just bought a 2006 3rd Generation truck. Anything that he needs to watch out for? I know my "02 2nd Generation but the "newer" trucks are unfamiliar to me.

Turn up the radio or install and MBRP "straight through" muffler. Just kidding, the silicone spray may work well.

Did the Gould seal kit about two years ago...it lasted maybe a week then back to leaking. I'm thinking it'll be best to just put in a rebuilt pump and be done with it. I hate to have to repeat the same repair that didn't work the firs time. - - - Updated - - - Forgot to ask....does anyone have an opinion on where to get a REBUILT PUMP? I saw them on Goulds site for $359 but after having a failure with the seal kit I'm kind of skiddish. His might be good but I'm hoping for some options. Thanks.

I do have some wander in my '02 but found it much more pronounced using lower tire air pressures. I got some new tires and had an good alignment and set tire pressire at 60# minimum and found the "wander" to be much better. I think it's just inherent in these trucks..you gotta drive them and not just be "present" as they go down the road. I still have an "all-stock" front end but still have some "wander" particularily with my 4000# plus camper and boat on the back. Try upping your tire pressure and see if it helps. I think that having tire pressures at the "reccomended " level of something like 45psi is way too low for these trucks especially in the front end. There's lots of weight in the front end.Just my .02 worth.

I have a DiPricol mechanical gauge and had problems with the isolator, replace that with the needle valve set-up as decribed on this site. I still have the gauge dropping from about 15psi to ZERO and back up to 15. I've tried opening the valve more and closing it more with no change in the action of the gauge. You'd think that if the fuel pressure was truly dropping to zero the engine would let me know. Maybe it was the gauge all along and not the isolator?I'm going to replace the gauage and would like to install an electroinc unit to keep fuel out of the cab. I've seen there have been some problems with the electronics. Any suggestions on them and which seems to be best?Thanks.

Any opinions on the WIX Oil Filter? I saw the WIX 51607 listed on Rock Auto for $6.71 each in a case of 12. The Fleetguards are getting crazy $ even if I buy them by the half-dozen, but still worth it I figure. They also have FRAM's but I don't think I'll put any orange filters on MY truck.I know I've seen a chart showing which filters other than the Fleetguard to use but can't find it now...

I think I found the info on leaving the injectors loose until after the crossover tubes were in place on this site. GREAT advice. I hope I can get a few more mpg...diesel prices about got my truck parked except for fun use.

I do have a EGT Gauge and I have gotten in the habit of keeping an eye on it. Sometimes that gauge is about as active as the tachometer. Amazing how fast it can go up and also go down just as quickly. --- Update to the previous post... Hey...that was my 20th post so now I should be rated as a Standard Member!!!

I did put in the 275Rv injectors. Makes a difference even with my "mild" Quadzilla box. I don't notice any added smoke but do feel the hp and torque in the seat of the pants. This should make a difference while I have my camper on and boat in tow. A couple of added mpg's wouldn't hurt either. Also I've been reading about problems with leaking high pressure fuel lines from others here. So far (knock on wood ) there have been no leaks. I was real careful to keep the injectors loose while putting the cross-tubes in (with new o-ring seals) and after those were installed then torqued the injector hold-downs. Then torqued the fuel lines properly, at least those I coud get to with the torque wrench.So far it's been worth the time and expense. Thanks for checking.

Just a note of THANKS for the comments and help from everyone on this project. Got the injectors installed and valves adjusted, so far the truck runs like a champ and NO LEAKS . I did learn a bunch and still learning.

That's a nice truck but for $28+K... That's more than I paid for my 2002 in 2002 but then I have a "Plain Jane". Hope the new owners is happy. Nice rig either way.

Got the valves dajusted to 10/20. Most were good with no change. Now on to install the RV275 injectors. Thanks for the help.

THANK YOU BOTH. This was missed in the Valve Adjustment instructions and had me stumpped. Thanks to yo both.

I am going to adjust valves on my '02 and so far have the valve cover off, so far so good. Now I see that I need to move the engine to TDC which is noted on the pump gear housing. HELP...is this pump gear (with the indicator line) under the Crankcase Breather??? I have the hose off and can't seem to get the Crankcase Breather off if that's where the gear is located.Great pictures and help on the link here for adjusting valves but the part about the gear with the TDC mark was not shown. I have the Dodge Shop Manual on CD and it shows the breather as coming off....how do I get it off and if I do get it off, how do I get it back on securely? I hate to start prying on stuff and break it. Waiting for further instructions. Thanks.