mr.mindless

Stage 2 is suggested as the best spoolup and towing cam.That said, I ended up going with a new cam to meet my shipping reqs, so it's got a stage 3 "Big Stick" in it instead.

Guess I got too distracted by the light at the end of the tunnel to get any pics of the nice shiny Colt Cams badged retainer, or anything else reassembly related.

Got the swap done and put about 35 miles on it. I took a little timing out too. I think I was at 16-16.5 before, now I'm at about 14.5 if I remember right - and if 3* is the proper correction for the pop pressure difference (stock ISB injectors fed by a P7100). Feels way slower off the line, not sure if I like that. Its still all there if i put my foot in it, just slower than it was. Starts a million times easier though. 15-15.5 is probably the sweet spot for my future reference. Got on it good coming back home once and I can still get it hot, but I think it's more reasonable now. I didn't bury the pyro, which I think I could before if I tried (1600). Need to get a load behind it and pull US15 N to really know if it helped me as much as I hope. Found and fixed a few other issues while I was in it. Think I have a couple weeping injector lines still to deal with, and I definitely have a big bubble in the heater core. Brr!! Fixed my shutdown solenoid bracket again for the third and hopefully for last time. All my timing cover bolts had been loose, that was probably most of the oil leak. All locktited this time around. Though I'd done that before but ???I had the motor pretty completely stripped since I changed the tappet cover gasket. Both fuel pumps off, etc... Took probably 15-16 hours total wrench time. Noon to midnight yesterday and 11-5 today with a couple food breaks. Big job...

It's a new one not a regrind. Tappets looked like new 20k ago, if they still do I'm not going to worry about them.

Stage 2 Colt should be here tomorrow. Got all the needed replacements for my selection of leaking seals from Regional International night before last. I may end up with a haul Saturday instead of getting it done when I first planned to but either way I'm excited!I was really tempted to do RV 275s at the same time with that cheap set for sale here, but I decided to see how much difference the cam alone is going to make first. Right now the '02 isb205 has a b215 cam in it along with the p7100. details linked in my sig.

A miss/ hesitation under heavy load sounds just like what my buddy's '01 went through. We fought and fought with it, ended up taking it to a dealership, and it got two ECUs put in it after replacing the APPS three times didn't fix it. It got 99% better with the second ECU but he says he still feels it every once in great a while which has him wishing the VP44 would crap out and have good reason to replace the last likely culprit and know​ it's fixed.

Etrailer

Spare no-AC serp belt. I've used that more than I care to count, I can't keep a compressor in this damn thing, I may just give up.Tools - at least enough to tighten/bleed injector lines.Test light - saved me a few times with lighting issues.I should bring more air fittings and spare line with than I do, and I should carry a spare air compressor but I don't. (I need air for the RoadRanger)I don't carry spare filters. On a long trip I grab my toolbox and go. Most things that will stop me can be had at either a Cummins dealer or big box store - but issues seem to always happen on a Sunday afternoon just after closing time. It's all about getting to work around Murphy!

No issues with just adjusting timing that I've read. 12v cam doesn't have enough lift to flow well. Run the stock 24v cam of you're keeping an electric lift pump, that'd be fine.

Mine have never sealed up right and reliably :(Looking forward to any other ideas presented here. I've only had injection lines off, tubes have never been out.

Mine was more of a 24v swap than a p-pump swap. All the parts came off my 268k original 12v that sprung an oil-water leak somewhere in the block. Swapped the timing case, pump, lift pump, cam and some other bits onto a $440 24v in unknown condition with some crash damage out of a wrecked school bus. The stock cam swap was a mistake. Too little lift, it doesn't breathe well and runs hot for it. Stock untouched ISB 205 injectors in it. May do some RV275s at some point but I really have plenty of power already and I'm sure a Big Stick won't hurt it at all. I read that the pop pressure difference results in retarding the timing about 3*, I set the P7100 to a bit over 18* aiming for 15 effective. It starts in cold weather like it's timed at 18 though.

Don't have the note anymore, sorry. He wasn't offering much, but it was better than a poke in the eye with a stick. I did better selling it to a gambler in IN. I suspected it was good but had no way to test it. He paid me $250 and it made his truck run again. we both made out.

There's a guy on CF who was interested in the VP44 I had as a core. His shop rebuilds them I think. Lemme see if I still have that PM.

Not even close. Frame rails are flat in back and complicated in the front. Lean under and look sometime

How long has it sat Brian? If you're not introducing new air through a leak it can still take a couple shales for the cavitated fluid to settle out an finish working the air out.

Actually it's THE reason I kept the mechanical pump when the motor swap happened. It would have been much easier not to rework the 24v fuel system and just use the stock parts to feed the P-pump, but I like the million mile mechanical lift pump even if it means manual priming now and then, and gave me quite a challenge on fittings for the injector return. If I got a VE truck I'd be tempted to put a mechanical pump on it once the first Carter ____ the bed but swapping cams to get the lobe to drive it might be a bit much

I've spent faaaar too many hours thinking about that, while swapping out warrented parts, to buy into that anymore. Most of the time things are better from small vendors since they aren't making it up in volume on the other side - but I'm to the point where if I can roll my own solution to use off the shelf parts that I'm more likely to find when I'm 800 miles from home, or enable me to carry a spare at a reasonable cost if it proves unreliable, I'll go that route. If I could carry spare injection lines for instance, at a cost of less than $500+ for the set, I would....

The bolt pattern absolutely will match. Auto and manual have different input shaft lengths, and diesels and v10s have larger dia and spline count inputs than gasser counterparts. I think available counts are 23 27 and 29, and the v10 and diesel both get 29 with any transmission but that part I'm not 100% certain on. You should be able to swap input shafts between the cases, it's just lots of snap rings and annoyance. New Venture's gear cut style changed during 1994-95 area, I'm sure in your case they're both newer than that and it's not a concern.

I outlined the Tape measure toe method earlier in the thread: Again, if your tires are perfectly straight, you're toed out slightly further than you should be.

Given the chance, I had to see if they'd fit. Had about 6" total to spare once I got the air dam of the front car over the winch and jack. They're Mazda2s.

Different rim widths will affect contact patch too. Any chart is an educated guess at best. Chalk test is the way to go. What's "perfect toe"? If your toe is 0, you are toed out beyond spec and should expect a slightly off-center or darty steering and mild inner wear. Not as much as actually being toed out, but a rwd vehicle should be toed in slightly.

I'm not used to having adjustable camber with solid front axles in everything I play with alignments on, so in my world toe out wears the insides and toe in wears the outsides, and that's that...

CSM gives the right method. Check your contact patch. Once you have uneven wear it's a little late. Over-inflate, drop pressure gradually until you have solid contact on the shoulders, and 2-4psi lower than that is your best pressure for optimal tread wear. As for shoulder wear, why do you think it has to do with ride height and not toe? And you must have an IFS 4x2 if ride height can effect camber... Just get it aligned. If its a solid front axle, toe is all that's adjustable and you can do that with a tape measure. Should be toed in about 1/4". Jack up the front, mark each tire an measure between the marks. Spin the marks to the back of the tires and remeasure. Should be 1/4" closer together in front.

Anyone know what changed on the front axle between the 4850 (IIRC) rating and the 5200 rating? Is that the D60/AAM 10.5 changeover? I have the lighter rating, and am always right at it if not a bit over.

Some 9500 with full toolbox, spare tires, full tank and me...that 13 speed, 19.5s and a big pile of straps and tie downs don't help things much.I think I'm usually at or just above front AWR.