Perrysburg Dodgeboy

Note if you use the GM governor solenoid there are two groves unlike the Mopar that only has one. Line the solenoid ends up and note where the OE solenoid grove lines up. If you put it in the wrong grove the trans will not shift without letting up on the throttle. It is the last grove or the one that seats the GS the deepest!!! Line the ends up to see which grove to use. Trust me if you don't you will be pulling the pan to reset it, I found out the hard way :banghead:.Don

OK going to get the converter swapped, out what stall speed do you guys recommend. 1600 RPM or 1800 RPM. Truck gets dropped off tonight I know sort notice but any help would be appreciated.Don

Had the new two piece drive-shaft installed Monday Striped the heads off the CB bolts and I don't have a torch so I had the dealer pop it in for me. They only charged me $48.00 ! Shout Out to Al Smith Chrysler, Dodge, Ram, Jeep in Bowling-Green, Ohio just a great bunch of guys and girls there!!! Anyway she is as sold as a rock now. BTW after inspecting the rear shaft we found a dent in it so the POS GM spear tire I hit on the highway 3 months ago did damage it. That is most likely what took the CB and front u-joint on the rear shaft out ! Now I have a reason to hate GM's .Next thing on the to do list is install the brake assemblies I received for the TT then we will be ready for the Outer Banks trip .

Well went to pick up the drive shaft today and it is a two piece drive shaft . Looks like there is no sold drive shaft for the 160" wheelbase trucks. Will find out more Monday when I go to the dealership.

Jerred would love to have some info on how you added the diamond plate to the front of your TT. I would like to do that to my TT also. Mine is fiberglass and was thinking about using construction adhesive to hold it to the trailer. If you could post some pics of your install it would be greatly appreciated. thanks Don

OK the last two tanks I dropped both in cars, one a 300m and the other a Dodge Stratus. Both had a drain plug to remove the fuel. Do they not put a drain plug on the tanks in our trucks :think:I have to say pulling the bed is not a big deal if you have a way to lift it on and off. A chain fall and some rope tied off to the cleats inside the bed would work. Not everyone has a front end loader:wink:Don

If you have not found what axel is in the truck you should find the info inside the glovebox. Open it and look on the inside of the front cover and you will find the information there.Don

I'm not sure that number is a good number for my truck. I have the 160" WB and have not been able to find a one piece for a LWB quad cab auto 2WD. All the ones for my truck are two piece shafts. Will call my dealer tomorrow and find out what is available. Don - - - Updated - - - Ordered the one piece shaft from my dealer at the cost of $611.25 with a list price of $897 :spend:but at the rate of changing a CB every 70,000 miles it makes more since to replace the drive shaft from what I have been readed in other forums. So looks like more OT for me coming down the pike. Don

if we where talking about high pressures then yes I would worry about that. A guy in the department I work is going to bring in his stock air horn so I can see how I can remove without having an issue. The only thing it needs to support is it's own weight right? Maybe weld in a boss on the outside to extend the bolt, say .500"? After I can lay hands on one I can get an idea as to how much marital can be removed.Don

Was not offended and I agree with you I hate to waste money. The kids do that for me with Momma's help too . Not sure why I didn't think about the driveline because now that I think back it is acting the same way before we left for the Florida trip three years ago. :banghead:After talking to Dave I drove her onto the ramps grabbed the front and rear shaft and was able to move them about a quarter of an inch in any direction. So now I'm looking to see if there is an upgrade to the OEM carrier bearing or if I'm stuck with the factory one. Last time there was no upgrade, will most likely replace the joints at the same time. However they are tight so I'll pull a cap off the rear joint and see how the bearing surface looks.Most likely will end up with $150 if just the CB TO $300 if the joints need replacing too.Don

From the pic of the stock air horn you posted it looks like you can remove at least .375 from each side of the opening to the intake. As for the roughness of the sides I don't think that would be any issue. A die grinder with a carbide burr followed by a buzzer band to smoth things out and I bet you would notice a change. Don

Well, the money thing has to do with not wanting to waste it. The truck and trailer are paid off. But that does not mean I have money to burn. I take it by you sig you are a Mopar Tech? The reason I was looking at torque converter was because it is the weak link according to the test garage manager at the Chrysler plant I work at. We build torque converters at this plant, just not the one for the diesels, or I would have the stock one replaced there. I also was told by a performance re-builder, one that has rebuilt 48re transmissions that I should replace the TC first. I have replaced both solenoids last spring as the trans seemed to not be shifting correctly. Also I had a shift kit installed and the bands adjusted last fall. Don - - - Updated - - - BTW with One in College, one in tech school and one going in college next year you might now get the empty pocket thing. You did notice that my truck is a 2004 and the trailer is a 2005 right? Don - - - Updated - - - OK I talked with Dave at Goerend Transmission and he directed me to power break the truck and see if I feel the shudder. If there is none it is not the trans, sure enough no shudder. He gave me a TSB 03-003-04 http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2004/03-003-04.htm Vehicles equipped with a two piece driveshaft are designed to minimize reaction forces which result from the universal joint transmitting torque at an angle. These forces can not be eliminated entirely because of the necessity to compromise joint angle selection between curb and design loading conditions. When subjected to this vibration, the vehicle experiences a shudder type disturbance, generally occurring less than 25 mph. This disturbance will increase as the suspension moves further from its design load (typically two front passengers). The forces are also torque sensitive, which means the disturbance, will be highest under wide open throttle. U-joint angles change depending upon the amount of weight applied to the vehicle bed, therefore u-joint angle readings may need to be taken with different vehicle loads in order to obtain a satisfactory compromise. The vehicle should be evaluated under the loaded condition that produces the objectionable disturbance. There is a one piece drive shift part number 52123161AA or you can shim the carrier bearing using part numbers 04778851, 8852, 8853 1/8" 1/4" and 1/2". I had replaced the u-joints and C/B at about 70K miles but did not know about the shims. So here we are at almost the same mileage and it needs a new C/B. the u-joints seem to be OK but there is definitely why to much movement in the C/B. So I'm going to get a new one then make up a SS 1/4" shim and hopefully be done with it this BS. Don

After doing some surfing looks like the only way I can hit my price range is to stay stock.

I have noticed that when towing I'm getting launch shudder when towing or under heavy acceleration. Since we are tow the TT to the Outer Banks this summer I'm going to replace the TC. Would like to spend no more then $500 if possible. Don

I was under the impression that the ram was running a full time four wheel drive transfer case.Don