FlatTwin

Dave,Thanks and now it makes sense. Installed you cannot see the contact and the two places I found the plate for sale did not say squat about how it worked or why.Thx,Joe

Also I found that adding a shell to the bed of the truck gave me .5 to 1 mpg increase. It all adds up and helps get you down the road on the least $$. I have found that keeping an eye on your tire pressures also makes a big deal on your mileage. Keeping them on the high side for me works best. --- Update to the previous post... Mike, Looking at this item, it appears to be just a plate that bolts on the top or side of the VP and then has a wire going down to tap into the trigger wire in the injector pump? Or is there a contact on the stealth plate that makes this contact and the wire goes to the Edge controller? Am not seeing the advantage to the stealth plate other than it covers the VP and part of the wire. Thx, Joe

Mike,What do you mean "stealth plates?" and what are we looking for in the above photo? I have hot tapped into the VP wire with my Edge either and now you guys have me curious as well. Have been driving around for 2 years with the Edge set at position 1 and no VP wire, just using it for the codes and fuel pressure info. Joe

Correct me if I am wrong guys, but I was under the impression that until you hook up the tap wire on the VP, that you have nothing but level 1 performance. You can change it on the Edge controller to level 3, 4, or 5 and its still not going to do anything more than level 1 without the tap wire.Glad to see it running... just takes a bit of patience and some hand holding from those who have been there before!Joe

You DO NOT need to fiddle with the wire tap on the VP. I have been running my Edge w/attitude for 3 years now with it not hooked up. All that does is put you in level 1 mode, and you are not able to make any VP changes. Get the Edge running on the truck and working fine, then hook the extra stuff up.

Try what Dripley recommeneded, takes 10 minutes max to give that a shot and that might just prime the pump if thats the issue.Otherwise you have a bit of troubleshooting ahead of you but nothing that difficult.

Pull the fuel line off of the pressure side of your AD100. Put a hose on the pump outlet and run it into a bucket. Bump the starter and if you do not get any fuel out of the line then you either have a priming issue or restriction in the line. After you get that corrected, then do the same thing with the fuel line connected and wait until you get fuel at the Edge which means you have pressure at the VP. Then and only then do you fuss with bleeding anything. I usually bleed 2-3 injectors and by that time the engine will start and the rest clear out fine.EDIT, one other option would be to get a 5 gallon can of fuel, and stick the SUCTION line from the AD into the can of diesel. Then bump the starter and see what happens. This would eliminate the fuel tank/drawstraw bit from your question. If it draws fuel fine and you get pressure at the Edge/VP, then you know your problem is with the line, drawstraw or tank.

Morning update. Went out to the truck and it acted just like the old days, started immediately when I tapped the starter.Fuel pressures, mileage and so on was normal.Drove 15 miles to the airport, fussed around there for 30 minutes then returned home. Second startup it cranked just a half second longer and started fine, but did take just a bit longer. If this is the electronics on the VP, whats the future? Going to stop dead on the road someday or show some other signs or ??Thx,Joe

Batteries are a matched pair and about a year old. They are not the problem nor is the starter which turns over just fine and the same way it has for the 3 years I have had the truck.I have a scangauge (as shown on my signature below) and have not seen any codes lately but will re-check. Just tried the fuel cap bit and the vent is working fine as no hissing there... As I said above, first start in the morning is fine, and starts after that get progressively longer. It always starts, just needs to crank longer... Thanks for the ideas guys!Joe

Have not changed the fuel filter in a while, so its prolly time.No fuel leaks that I have seen and I look on the ground, but will check tomorrow.Fuel pressure is 13 min and 16 tops. WOT the lowest I have seen is 12 but rarely goes down that far, usually stays 13-14 if not higher.

I have had this truck for almost 3 years and love it. For most of this time I barely even hit the starter, it fires right up the second the starter motor engages. Well the last couple of weeks this has changed. First it started having to crank just a bit, maybe 2 seconds and yesterday and today had to crank for 3-4 seconds. It always has fired up fine and runs great, with the mileage being about the same as usual. Fuel pressure is the same, a low of 13 and high of 16. Tried to run it higher but it does not like it. One change is that the weather is now starting to get hot, with our hitting 96 today and forcast to be above 100 by the weekend. The truck has started a bit quicker the first start of the morning, so wondering if the fuel in the lines from the VP to the injector are getting hot after sitting and vaporizing, as the longer starts come later in the day after its been running. Also I have been running some alternative fuel in the critter. Mixed about 5 gallons of old (but never used) peanut oil in the tank. Had about 4 gallons mixed in with 30 gallons of diesel, with some two cycle oil mixed in. Wanted to get rid of the old peanut oil and friends said that as long as you dilute it pretty good that it would run fine so hope that this is not causing problems.Am just scared that the VP44 is heading South and causing this issue... Any ideas or suggestions? Thx,Joe

Couple of questions for you guys.First off I have a Edge w/Attitude but the VP wire is not hooked up, so just running it on level one. Truck is equipped as shown in my signature, nothing fancy. When I see your guys posts showing boost in the area of 20 to 35 psi thats way more than I have ever seen. Believe that the best I have ever gotten is 16-17 psi. I bought this truck used 15,000 miles ago (136k total miles) and do not know the past history. Am wondering if the Turbo is showing its age with the low boost readings? Or is there anything else that could be causing my low boost readings when compared to you guys readings? Thx,Joe

Quick check is to get some starting fluid. Spray a bit of that in the intake and if it fires, then its the VP or LP. If it does not then look elsewhere...Joe

Thanks and thats the reason I got XM as well as to get away from the damm commercials. Mostly I listen to classic rock and they have a couple of channels with nothing else on and no commercials so its worth it to me, especially on the long drives. My cell also has a jack but the radio in the truck does not so thats my drawback. Looking for a work around to this.

There are times when I drive some pretty long legs, like 1000 miles a day or so. Some of this is in wonderful legs like El Paso to Dallas there there is absolutely nothing out there, (and an awful lot of it! ) and no radio stations.Anyone on the list ever used XM Satellite Radio in the truck? I can always use the stock Dodge radio by plugging a "cassette adapter" in it but the quality is not the best. Would like to find someway to use the direct cable style of connection.So far have found very few options other than yanking the entire radio system out and replacing it and really hate to do this unless I have to. Hope someone has some ideas or experience in this area.Thx,FT

Will give this a try. I bought a remote off of Ebay a year or so ago and tried to program it with no luck, but then I did not try it three times!Thx,FT

Well gents, I believe that the problem is solved!Got under the truck again this morning after studying the above photos and removed the "nipple" that was blocking the second port next to the one that broke. Its best seen in the second photo above, with the rubber nipple cover on it. Unfortunately it was the next size larger, so the return fuel line would not slip on. You know, for almost $1000 I am not going to let this slow me down too much.Finally gave up and took the "quick disconnect" end on the return fuel line and with a small hobby saw, cut the quick disconnect bit off. No going back now! This left me with the hard plastic line but also with the hard plastic portion of the quick disconnect fitting still inside the plastic line, which made it lots stiffer. Then took a 3" piece of fuel hose that I found around the shop and slipped it onto the fuel return line, then tightening it with some hose clamps that I was lucky enough to have on hand. Then put the hose on the larger plastic fitting that was not broken and using the screw clamp tightened it snugly. Have to be careful on these as these are nothing but plastic molded fittings, so do not want to crank down too hard here.Started the truck up and its dry as a bone on top of the truck! Problem fixed and for less than a buck! How just hope it holds but should and if not then will pull the bed off or drop the tank and put a fitting on the puppy!Joe

Hopefully making a bit of headway.Two photos of the same thing, just from a different angle. The wire connector on the left is for the fuel gauge. The rubber "nipple" that is a cap is on the right side of everything and in the foreground is the drawstraw from Vulcan for the main fuel feed.In the middle is the black hose that uses that damm special clip that Dodge uses for fuel lines and where this clips on is whats cracked or broken. This is the fuel injection return line.First question is, does anyone know if the "capped off" part to the right of the return line could be used for the return fuel? Its pointing directly at you in the second photo.Second question is in the foreground on the left side is another nipple but I am guessing that this is a vent and not able to use it for return fuel. Anyone know for sure? Its the ground grey thing on top of the light colored plastic piece on the left.Thx,Joe

Rogan, You and I think alike! I really did not want to pull the tank (or tilt the bed) but now looks like I have no choice. Have been to a couple of wrecking yards this morning and one good diesel shop here in Phoenix (Strictly Diesel by Deer Valley Airport) and there are no used sending units for sale and the diesel shop did one of these last week for "only" $800! They were nice enough about it but the part that needs to be replaced comes ONLY from Dodge and ONLY with a fuel pump in it for $500. We would then have to yank the new fuel pump assy out and install the draw straw, which is silly. Sorry, been an aircraft mechanic too long to spend that kind of $$ on something like this, so its yank the tank time. My only concern is that the return line, at least at the tank, is the hard plastic kind and not rubber and wondering how a bayonet fitting is going to work with this, but guess we will find out! The nipple is the "dodge push on" type and not a simple one where a fuel hose is inserted on as shown in your illustrations. It takes a special plastic fitting to make work and I am going to have to work around that and use something else. Will report back in and see how this goes! Thx, FT --- Update to the previous post... Fuel line has the type of fittings like on this photo, except that the broken nipple is plastic: http://www.turbodieselregister.com/user_gallery/displayimage.php?&photoid=26371&width=0

Well everyone, wondered why my fuel level has been going down so fast lately. Got out of the truck only to see a puddle of fuel leaking on the driveway. Got underneath it and as best as I could find the return line to the top of the fuel tank/sending unit was loose. Went to a friendly garage and got the truck up in the air and confirmed it. We put a draw straw along with a Raptor 100 pump in about a year ago and its been running fine since that time. Now this happens and of course it has to be 108 degrees and humid out there this week, so getting under the puppy for hours at a time to get the sending unit out just is not going to happen, at least right now. My problem so far is that NO one has a new "sending unit" part for the top of the fuel tank. They all want to sell me the fuel pump assy which would have this but I do not need the fuel pump, only the top of the part so I can put the draw-straw in it. Anyone have any ideas on where to get something like this? Have tried a couple of wrecking yards but so far everyone only has gas versions of the RAM and not sure that this is the same part. As well hoping not to have to go to Dodge and get bent over there... Ideas or suggestions? Thx,Joe

I have tilted the bed up to remove the sender/pump assy and while its not that difficult, working in the driveway while doing this sure is. As of yesterday I get to pull the sending unit/fuel gauge out as the nipple for the fuel injection fuel line has broken off and is squirting fuel everywhere from the return line.Truthfully in my truck feel that removing the fuel tank will be easier. You really have to tilt the bed way up to get the room to remove the sender/pump assy out of the tank. FT

Well, they think that the motor is the issue as the control is sending what they feel is the correct signal voltage down to the motor.They are changing that and if it works then I pay for the parts. Other than that they have replaced pretty much everything already.BTW, I talked them into putting a new coupling in the puppy. its a year old and fails often, so for the price lets do it right. Will report back and see what happens.

Well we are going back into the shop today. Have put up with the system the way it is for long enough. I paid them almost a year ago to fix this and this is the 4th time that they are going to take the dash off and go back inside again. Its still doing the same thing. Turn the temp to full cold and its full cold. Turn the temp knob to 1/2 cold and its still full tilt cold. Turn it to the halfway point on the scale and its either full cold or full hot. When you turn it to the halfway point then vary it one click to the right or left it goes full hot or full cold.My feeling is that the diverter door is working and that the temp control is either out or needs calibrating. The guy I talk with at the shop, the front desk manager, it very nice but does not seem to know much about the system, telling me that he is not sure that it can be calibrated. If I had not paid them to do this a long time ago would dive into it myself but its their job to fix right so letting them go at it.Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Never had any issues with either the series 1 or the version 2 that I have had now for about 8 months now. It stays plugged in all the time and never a hiccup with either one.FT

Digging up an old thread. If anyone has a TransferFlow fuel tank/toolbox combo in their truck, there IS a way around the computer that controls the system.Not that my computer was having any problems, I just had not had time to hook all the wiring up and was not going to have time to do so in the time before my trip. Had to drive from Phoenix to the Gilroy area in California, then back the next day, a trip of about 1500 miles. Called TransferFlow and talked with one of the tech guys. Funny thing was that he and I were both aircraft mechanics, so we understood each other very well. He told me to ground one set of wires on the harness and to apply 12v to another wire in the harness and this would put me in the "get home" mode with the tank and pump. Tried it and it worked great, with the pump starting right up immediately. Only difficult thing with this is that there is NO safety net while using this. The truck's stock fuel tank is 38 gallons (I believe) and the TransferFlow tank is 50 gallons, so it could easily overflow the stock tank. Its something that you have to keep an eye on, but on this trip worked great and I did not have to add fuel one time the entire journey. Have to really give a pat on the back to the guys at TF as this saved the day!