Tittle Diesel Performance

Use the default profile for a while. Its very safe for the head, youll get some economy out of it atleast and its clean burning.

Besides changes in winter and summer blend fuels low IAT temps will play a big change in economy as well as parasitic loss from colder differentials and tighter clearances in general. Colder and more denser air is also harder to drive threw physically creating more drag. It all adds up. as for the IAT thing I bump each timing setting up 1-2* depending on outside temp to offset for the low IAT in the winter and my economy hasn’t changed because of it. if you listen very very closely to the engine knock you can hear as IAT changes the knock changes at varying throttle, load and RPM. I also have a ear for it more then some I feel but if your extremely in tune with the sound you can determine your timing curve on sound with different conditions. Quad timing I run on my stockish tow rig for winter 1500: 18.5-19 2000: 22 2500: 24.5 3000: 26 max: 27 Fuel load 0 cruise advance 2 low boost reduct 5 For quadzilla users if you take a little timing away from the cruise advance and instead put it into the timing map section you’ll find gains in economy, since the ground we drive on isn’t 100% level and we have changing conditions constantly it means we fall in and out of cruise time constantly. Some of us live in mountains, if 1500 is set at 15* the second you start climbing your timing falls back, well it’s too low then and you’ve lost cylinder pressure and to make up for it you inject more fuel to compensate. Focus more on the timing map itself rather then your cruise figure, you’ll find gains there more. For mopar man for example if he pulls about 1* from cruise advance and puts it in the 2000rpm figure he would use less fuel on the hill climbs where he lives since the truck isn’t in the cruise map overlay.

Ok good. I must have misread. I gotta get one of those switches soon. The quad high idle is nice and all but linking up, syncing etc etc it takes a while to get into the truck and some times when it’s super cold I’ve noticed the IQuad module has a tough time connecting I found where the cooler line was talked about lol I totally missed that. another common option for the cooler line is also getting NPT to barbed fittings from any hardware store with a 1/2” outlet and running 1/2 “ lines either direct to the cooler or splicing into the metal lines with a compression to barb fitting. Also if you bypass the heat exchanger under the turbo you’ll drop a good bit of trans temperature usually. It helps the heavy haul people, I noticed a 30* drop in temp empty on mine and customer rigs and 60* towing heavy on mountains. Just watch the routing that it doesn’t touch the frame or something sharp but it’s easy to do. You can also plumb in an extrernal hydraulic filter too just make sure to put a bypass in if the filter suddenly clogs so you don’t loose cooler flow or get a head pressure build up in the cooler line. It’ll burn the converter before you know it’s getting hot. I’ve never personally had one do that but I also build up each unit I’ve done it to, filter was there to capture converter build particles and anything that goes threw the system from clutch packs to keep it clean and valves functioning properly. Point is the rubber line thing makes it much easier to deal with and gives a lot of options

So the high idle switches are discontinued then? I was planning to get one just to save wiring time tricking the sensors...

I haven’t either, I use an inflation table of my own. Most of the tires that were coming apart were in the 45-60psi range. 80 is fully loaded max gross weight if you want good MPG. Every time load changes pressure should of course. Since we all don’t have on board air the general rule of thumb is 50psi for 8 lug trucks that are usually empty but have some light loads. 60psi for those with light to medium loads and 70psi plus for max GVW but there is lots of factors to it. I like 60 myself for my vehicles but most customers I do 50-55 so it doesn’t ride too hard for them. Yup it’s luck of the draw. I’ve had car tires explode too, belt shifts on inflation and a bubble forms and BOOM. Brand new too, not used or re-tread BS. I’d never run used or re-treads on anything. I’ve seen people buy used, drive about 20 miles to me and they ask why there is such a bad vibration and every tire had a bad belt. People dont change tires tires cause they feel like it, tires are removed and discarded because there is a flaw and there not safe. 1 out of 1000 is truly acceptable to be re-sold from used tire places but some people don’t care... small used tires run $40 around here but the same tire you can get a brand spankin new one for $70 with warranty installed as well. People just make poor choices... in an emergency I can see it but I’d never take that chance. Too many tire failures and too many lives at risk to save a dollar. Not that new can’t explode but it’s much less likely...just my $.02

What a lot of people don’t realize is the mapping of both is the same your just getting a data screen with the CS/CTS and a digital adjustment. The comp does the same thing and the hot/drag comp is just level 6 unlocked which has a hair more microseconds of wire tap. If I remember right level 5 is 1400MS and 6 is 1600. Quad you can run up to 2200 but most trucks are happy at 1800 so even out of the box the quadzilla V1 even has more potential then edge. Obviously tunability is a big thing too. Gotta be careful of the map adaptors on some boxes, some use different maps for 01 and 02 trucks since the map sensor isn’t strictly boost like 98-00 trucks which can make them run strangely. I had a guy with a 99 buy a 02 quadzilla and no mater what you did in fuel settings it ran full fuel settings all the time. Started at 30psi via ECM reading but the quad registered like 5 I think at idle. Could have been a truck wiring issue I’m not 100% It was a long time and many customers ago but it didn’t work well at all. Tons of smoke and sensitive throttle issues. Ended up getting a new one for a 99 and it worked fine. The 02 box was used and he sold it to a guy with an 02 and it worked great from then on. Not all trucks are created equal. I’ve had similar things happen with edge where a comp drives/runs crappy on one 00 truck and the next 00 truck it’s crisp, smooth and powerful. Oh oh and you should really either swap to 4.10 gears or take the lift/level out and drop tire sizes. 3.54 and 35’s with a auto is really hard on the trans, you develop a lot of heat and excess load when driving so you consume more fuel and the rotating mass and final gear factors in to slowing the truck down....a lot. 32’s vs 35’s on a customer truck we dropped .8 of a second off the 1/4 just changing sizes in the parking lot. Makes a big difference

Oh I know but those with edge tuners who don’t make the switch the a real tuner can run this setup and get away with it decently clean power without the tap. Obviously the tap will smoke good, you also have a 02 so you probably had smoke with 50’s it’s different mapping and a HO pump (assuming you have one). With this specific truck it’s a new SO pump, 90hp and untapped edge for a company plow/tow rig. Since the tap would void the pump warranty and it needed injectors I swapped some 90’s in. I was trying for 75’s but DAP didn’t have any on hand. It works though. Truck feels great, very peppy and not super dirty. Granted with a manual trans having more load down in the low rpm band you’d probably smoke more but this auto has a 1700 flash stall converter so the HX is lit by the time load calculation comes up and it cleans up pretty good. Owner loves it! stock nozzle had a Piece of metal/aluminum get in the end of the nozzle and it melted plugging 2 of the 7 orfaces. It always ran weird for years and finally got to go into the injectors that have never been removed since new. Haven’t seen that as a reason it was firing weird before but with the failed 220k VP that came off it wouldn’t surprise me...now if I can just get that 53 block stitched ? Personally I wouldn’t want to place it there since you have to look down at it fully removing your road vision but that’s just me. I’ve got a holder on the dash and just turn the dedicated device on when I tow otherwise stays on timing only or tow settings with backdown enabled if something is wrong and I don’t catch it. Towing of course I keep it on for mountain grades. Gonna run it threw the mountains this weekend with the HX so it’s data log time! Can you fill out your signature so we can see what you have. I’m nosy?

It’s come and go, just out of the hundreds I’ve installed even with proper inflation etc there was a manufacture flaw with those tires. looks good with a trailer!

You have 4.10 gears? What’s your rpm at 60?

note for those looking at tires. Michelin LTX MS2’s are the number 1 tire for trucks to have failures. I literally removed 20 full sets in a years time all with the same failure, the tread separates off the carcass. So if that’s something you looking at then keep looking.... if your into MT’s master craft MXT and even the AXTis a great tire. Made by cooper. Really all cooper tires are great, I’ve had great luck with them. Traction and noise are good, wears well if you take care of them etc. so warning on Michelin tires, walk away.... they also dry rot extremely fast. Offbrand house tires do well, the China knock off tires are much better then 10 years ago

That would be helpful. But really most shops can with there scanner so if your gonna run 37’s for the next 5 years at least you can throw em a few bucks to do it

Curious if you will ever have a ABS calibration change for the stock speedo. That would help a lot for those running 33+ tires that push your over that 5mph error above 55mph.

ANYONE WHO NEEDS TO RECALIBRATE SPEEDO: Any shop with a snap on Solus can enter the ABS module and correct for tire size. If the size isn’t on the list there’s is an option based on revolutions per mile. S03, super chips and any other plug in flash type programmer will usually have ABS correction factors. I just corrected one yesterday. Someone put the tire size in as 215/70/15 and it was running 33’s so I was doing 55mph indicated and pulled out the GPS cause I was blowing by traffic and turned out I was doing 81mph. Now it’s within 1mph GPS and radar based. He always said he got like 13mpg empty, guess that didn’t help much huh haha truck gets about 20 now with some tuning and 90hp injectors

You need to re-read that. Wear causes it to loosen up more and more till it comes apart. No real way around it unless you readjust bands every 50k or so but each truck is different too. Good setting is 1/8” drill bit between the servo and apply lever while pulling the apply lever under tension with your finger. Gives nearly 1/4” under hydraulic load of travel for a clean 2-3

That was a factory optional tire size regardless of trim level. I’ve had LT with 265 and SLT with 245 each truck was different. 265 was classified as the off-road package.

The band anchor coming off isn’t an abnormal thing. Most trans builders set them loose to start for a cleaner 2-3 shift so general wear gives enough room to fall out of place. It happens. I doubt TPS is the issue, the gov signal is on a time based algorithm that offsets for TPS input errors. Basically it’s got a smoothing function. Your more likely that the 1-2 shift valve is worn or the bore is worn, the gov plug maybe getting stuck or even the intermediate 2nd gear servo is sticking, they use a metal sealing ring that wears a groove in the bore and gets hung up then bangs into gear. Another one is the throttle valve getting stuck or even as simple as your TV cable is frayed and sticking. That cable is the #1 cause of trans failures in dodges because no one adjusts or takes care of them properly. Make sure that cable is moving smoothly, and there is a return spring for it on the trans itself. If that’s broken find another to replace it. Shift points should be around 12mph 1-2 and 26-30 for 2-3 normal driving. Some times you can’t get it that high but it depends on the VB calibration so get it as close as you can. You should feel the TV return spring in the pedal feel at all times

A little unsprung weight won’t hurt it, that’s usually effective more in stop and go or sudden throttle situations. Look more at diameter rather then the weight. Unsprung weight will lose some effectiveness of the shocks but that’s really all you should see. If it was a geo metro that made 60hp and 47lbs ft at the tire I’d be concerned but not on something like this. Personally on 4wd versions I won’t do smaller then a 265/75/16 or equivalent 31 to 32” tire. It looks like crap and takes away from the clearance of the solid axles. I wouldn’t go more then 33” with 3.54 gears. 4.10 likes any where between a 31 and 35, it doesn’t seem to care as much since your rpm is higher and your in the turbo power band all the time rather then being boarder line. If your over 35” tires though a 4.56 is your best bet but honestly at that point economy isn’t your strong suit pushing that much air and weight around.... it can be done but it’s more difficult. If your looking for more economy the 62/67/12 doesn’t really help that. It’s not a bad turbo but it takes a little more rpm to stay in th power band so you use more fuel to offset that creating more heat. You’d be better with like a HX35W with a 16cm housing or even th 18cm. It’ll give you exhaust breathing and low EGT but keep the shaft RPM up and boost would be more responsive. The stock exhaust manifold is ok on 24v trucks but an aftermarket 3 piece DAP unit would help too if you intend to keep that HX35 variant on there. they smooth the pulse and flow into the exhaust housing which ends up running a little cooler and smoother in the long run but boost stays pretty well the same. Just my .02 You can can find those models online if you look hard enough. What I find hilarious is they say that 105hp and 260lbs ft is ok for up to 16k GVW but in the modern world where everyone does 70+ and the world isn’t dead flat it just doesn’t work. I’d take that kind of power in maybe a ford ranger but too many Mcdonalds wrappers in the back may get me rear ended trying to merge.... not to say it wouldn’t move 16k but it seems in the real world of factory 320hp turbo 4 cyl cars and impatient people you’d be likely to get hit just going A to B. Of course those power numbers are due mainly to emissions standard as well as reliability/longetivity reasons.

Yeah I came across the post about the HG failure. Running that kind of timing will do that. My dually is in danger of it as well. I cranked down the head bolts but it’s gonna get studs soon anyways, it’s just a matter of time...plus warm up heat is the biggest contributor.

So if your running a junky edge comp or juice and want just a little more fun, this is what smoke out put you can expect with a 90hp 7x.0085 VCO injector from DAP. Clean burning and sensible injector for a well balanced rig. Pop pressure on this truck is 300bar. Truck setup: 99 model year, fass 95, edge juice (same program as comp), 4” exhaust, HX35W, garbage jasper trans, triple disc, 4.10 gear. this specific truck doesn’t have the pump tap installed due to a new VP44 installed so this is just stock, level 1/sub 1 and level 2/sub 1 for low smoke and smooth acceleration to keep traction under control. With levels 3-4-5-6 with the pump tap of course expect smoke and hard torque and acceleration. This truck is a fleet tow rig and they don’t run the pump tap because employees drive the truck and they don’t want it hotrodded but wanted a little more pull without the pump tap being installed. stock: level 1/sub 1: level 2/sub 1: Good setup for daily drivers and tow rigs. You can hit 1300-1350* on wide open runs on all levels so make sure you have a good set of gauges (not glow shi(f)t, there garbage, slow and your gonna melt a piston)... would work well with S03 users also. Levels 1-4 or if you use REVO settings (actual level is irrelevant then).

Oh ok, so the timing sweep is much further then. Stock is 30-32* total I do believe. Very cool. Exhaust I assume isn’t stock either? Cat back systems help some just don’t remove the cats. Beyond that it doesn’t matter as much. Before my 12v I had a 93 Dakota with the 3.9 5speed 4wd and I’d get 20-23 empty with it so your doing pretty good! On those engines they used a stock single roller timing chain, they go slack and kill power and MPG, you may want to get the parts for a dual roller chain and replace it. It’s a easy job. That’ll help your economy quest a lot, I’ve got a lot experience in that department lol

On the 1/2 ton have you bumped static timing up a few degrees? The computer didn’t offset that timing advancement till 99 when the total timing map was introduced. Give it 2* at a time till you hear it ping then drop back 2 for safety. Also unplugging the EGR vac line and capping the PCV and running a tube to the intake filter assembly will help a little also. It still burns the crank case emissions but not via vacuum draw which on those would richen the map at part throttle.

All we have is 40 now anyways, of course it all depends on conditions and engine tuning etc. just like octane to gas engines, running 93 over 87 has no benefit other then detonation resistance and in some cases of fixed timing engines such as a lawn mower you can loose a touch of power but it’s hardly noticeable Took mpg on the tow rig last night. City/highway mixed driving on economy with a HX35W. I backed down 1* of cruise timing at the end, the canbus fuel dropped about 75-100 so now I got to find the sweet spot again with the newly found exhaust flow. Boost also came up about 1-2psi VS HY35. During this run I did a few wire tap pulls and some wide open runs. This is hand math, speedo calibrated, same pump etc etc

Yeah if you look at specs some companies make an oversized unit. It’s not displayed as oversized you gotta check the spec sheet. I run 4 core units in both. Stock is 3 according to Chrysler tech bullitens. Either way I’ve never gotten either truck over 190* even with the 1/2 rad block in 70* weather cause I forgot to remove the block. That also includes 20k up 6% grades at 70mph during summer running the AC. They both stay nice and cool all day. I got them dialed. It’s all about the details?? Youll notice too that that the clatter is louder on “cold starts” meaning ambient temp. Engines are considered cold under coolant temps of 120-130* depending on manufacture. At 70* ambient VP trucks seem to hold about 18.73* of timing at idle on start to offset for cold fuel and cold air temps as the engine isn’t warm but as it comes up in temp timing falls back to 13.73 roughly. You can hear it if you listen closely. Winter I’m not sure of timing yet though off the top of my head. My dually is new to me still so it hasn’t seen a winter in my possession yet

When end you had the edge and got the 27mpg what kind of conditions and what fuel station did you use? How long ago was it and was it 40cetane for 45? Back when we had 45cetane here my 12v would get 22-25 area and I didn’t even have over drive. 2300rpm at 60 in 3rd everywhere for a while. It dropped to 17-18 out of no where and I noticed the new tags for 40 cetane. Hasn’t been near that since.... this was back in 2011 btw when you hit that 27mpg was your speedo recalibrated for the tire size too? A lot of people overlook that as the odometer would be off too as you know

I’ll be buying it at some point just gotta do it. Maybe this weekend, we are supposed to get a sweet hurricane so it’ll give me something to do lol I put a 180 in my dually, got about 10* drop too naturally. i hate the IAT position, granted running the quad it doesn’t matter anymore now but it’s just not a great spot to base data off of. In general for the 12 and 24v the fact they run coolant threw the intake plenum to begin with isn’t the brightest idea. I see why they did it (emissions) but in the real world it sucks to have that way... the older ford 460’s in the 70’s to meet emissions they put a cross over pipe from manifold to manifold that routed under the intake manifold and carb. Caused fuel boiling like crazy but it sped the burn rate up and allowed lower timing to be used for less NOx emissions. Essentially Cummins did something similar but also a natural air heater for cold climates and low load conditions to create a cleaner burn with more heat. I do gotta ask @Mopar1973Man on a stock tune with the IAT fooler what kinda MPG did you manage to sneak out of it? I’m sure it wasn’t great of course but I’m sure some improvement was shown