mrtowman4u

Dead pedal is where, when your accelerator pedal doesn't it work! --- Update to the previous post... DEAD PEDAL This is THE MOST COMMON DRIVABILITY COMPLAINT and is an intermittent one that happens most often when the truck is hot or working harder, but can occur much less frequently when cold too. There are no codes pertaining to “Dead Pedal” that will condemn the computer and therefore the VP44. This symptom of “Dead Pedal” is rarely caused by a faulty APPS (Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor) and 99% of the time it is caused by a faulty computer on the top of VP44 injection pump. These numbers are NOT an exaggeration. The easiest way to positively eliminate or condemn the APPS as the cause of the problem is to “scan" or read the ECM (not the PCM) in your truck to check for any DTC codes pertaining to the APPS, such as a 121 or 122. IF YOU DON’T HAVE EITHER OR BOTH OF THESE CODES, THEN YOU PROBABLY DON’T NEED AN APPS. Diagnosing a bad APPS accurately without reading or having codes can be done with a voltmeter, by monitoring and measuring the voltage on the blue wire with a black tracer coming from the APPS plug. Turn the ignition key to the on position and slowly press on the throttle and slowly release it. You should not ever see a jump in voltage. It should go up and down smoothly. If it jumps up or down, then replace the APPS. "borrowed that from Blue Chip Diesel's website"

Im with the other guys.! Got to be in the clutch or drivetrain because my truck (when it was stock) would pull my backhoe on a gooseneck trailer with no problem and my backhoe weighs about 24500 fine, just a little slow though!

I can't remember! Let ya know tomorrow!

I run the Cummins tstat 192 and really pulling heavy loads it'll get to 204°

Ok that line is the manifold line! It goes to the back of the compressor an is held to the back of the compressor with one bolt in the center, the other line goes to the condensor core in front of the intercooler. That is the manifold lines that run roughly 140 at the part stores or ill let u have for 75 plus shipping they are brand new!

Im waiting on prowelder to.get one ready an im going to get one bc I idle alot!

I filled up yesterday afternoon fuel tank on truck 35 gals fuel tank in bed 65 gals, cost me $267.00 for 70.28 gals at $3.799/gal. I left Wynne, AR drove to Rome, GA pulling my 45 ft tandem dual gooseneck. I tried my hardest to keep right close to the posted speed limit!!! Left good ole home town at 7p.m pulled into Rome at 3 am thats stopping in Memphis Tn eating dinner, leaving there being a good samaritan and pulling an 06 Dodge 4 dr cab an chassis pulling a tri axle car hauler loaded with 3 cars out of the hwy bc he lost the ujoint and flange at the differential, (killed about 45 mins) stopping to stretch legs and restroom breaks. Loaded a 98 Ford E 350 ambulance that lost belt tensioner, but the EMT didn't notice spike on temp gauge so he kept going and blowed the engine, and back on the road at 3:30 am leaving Rome, by this time I'm starting feel my wheaties of being up since 3:30 yesterday morning, couldn't handle doing the speed limit any more and was running about 5-10 over! The posted speeds on the 2 lanes was 55 so I was doing about 65, in AL the speed limit was 65 so I was kicking about 70-75 in MS, an TN it was 70 so I kicked it about 75-80, in good ole AR sped limit is 70 an I was bumping about 80-85:nono::nono: Overall I ran 894.4 miles round trip of that 450 was loaded with the dead ambulance! So for the round trip of 894.4 miles I burned 82.851 gallons of fuel that hand calculated to 10.795 mpg overall. I did the whole round trip loading and unloading in 16.5 hrs!!!:pant: Do you think that this setup would help me fuel economy?

Send me a pic of the line you think is leaking if you can! Sorry about the long response time! Ended up having to make a run to Rome, GA its been a long day! Still have 4 hrs left ahead of me!

Is it the line from the drier to the back of the compressor? Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

Yes sir the switch is on the line near the compressor. The lines that I are the ones that come off the back of the compressor! Which line are you thinking that you might need?

On my truck it was the the switch on the low pressure line that was leaking! I tightened the fitting and don't have the issue any more with the leak! I have the lines that come off the back of the compressor for high and low side part number 4811770, I gave $ 75.00 for them. All the part stores can get them varying in price from $139.99 to over $250 at the dealer! If you need or want these lines I'll take my $75 plus shipping costs for them! I'm always looking for good deals myself!

I thought I would pass on some info for everyone! I had been talking to Mike "mopar1973man" about adding the scangauge II to my truck, but I am already using the OBDII port to run my Edge Attitude with Juice CTS! Mike an I messaged eachother back and forth, while Mike came up with a feasible idea of hard wiring another OBDII port into the truck, but with unknown an unforseeable issues! I called Scangauge and talked to a lady that was very helpful, explained to her that I needed the OBDII port to run my edge, but I also wanted to run their ScanGaugeII, after a few minutes on hold, she came back with the info on a site that has a "Y" adapter giving you the option of running to ports at once! I ordered the "Y" adapter and the ScanGauge II and will let you know how well it works out! The website she gave me was. http://www.obd2cables.com/products/obd-cables/obd-ii-cables/cable-j1962m-to-2-j1962f-y-cable-1ft.html The cable is very reasonable priced, I ordered my for $13.95 plus FedEx ground for $7.77 so a total of $21.72 I don't believe my nerves could have handled wiring in another port or finding one off a salvage vehicle and then wiring it in would be that cheap! Just thought I would pass this tidbit information on! Jason p.s. Thanks Again Mike "Mopar1973Man":smart:

Do you have any idea how many volts your alternator is putting out? I have been having issues with dead pedal as well! Look at thread about apps acting funny! I had broken wires on the back of my alternator! Or your alternator could be going bad! Just a few thoughts!

Thanks Mike! Yea I have everything hooked back up like it was supposed to be! I some green wire that I spliced back in to the green wire! Didn't have any blue so I used some more green wire but I used black heat shrink to on the blue wire and green and yellow heat shrink on the green wire! Other than looking fancy, what is inside and the purpose of the black box on there?

Well crap thought I had the truck fixed with the new apps! Brother used truck, called me this morning said the check engine light was back on and still having issues with dead peddle! Bare in mind that the 2 nd apps sensor was brand new and in the box! So I got online was getting ready to order a timbo's apps. I got to talking to my brother and my other 98.5 3500 had similar probs with a dead pedal, when the alternator went out! So I hauled butt to autozone and had alt checked out! It was putting out 11.6 volts! I got to looking at the alternator with the az machine still hooked up, played with the wires on back of alt, and the volts shot up to 13.8 so no bad alt! got to looking at the black connector box on alt and found the eyes were broke! I fixed connections and hooked back up to alt and now I have no dead pedal and running 13.6 volts at idle!!! Here are the before and after repair! Did I do the repair in a suitable manor or do I need to do something different?

Truck is running great again!!! To really test it I hooked on to a 36ft 5th wheel camper and hauled it for a customer did great! Anyone need a free fishing weight?

I have a brand new apps from cummins sitting in the box in my tool box! Do I need to change it out? --- Update to the previous post... Ok wish me luck again! Replaced the apps with the new one I had! Going to try it and see how it works!

Ok driving down the road today the apps starting acting funny again. Disconnected the edge juice and disabled it. Then continued driving and check engine light came on and gave me P0122, cleared code and it is still acting up but the check engine light hasn't came back on yet. Do I need to replace the apps?

Ok I'll do a test run with the edge turned off! Apps is the only thing acting screwy! Give a few mins an I'll be right back! I'll hook up the good ole snapon solus scan tool an watch the apps on it! That way I know the edge isn't running! --- Update to the previous post... Ok went out for a test run! Test run 1 juice unplugged, solus plugged in watching apps! Everything normal apps working like should, no spitting, sputtering, or falling on face! Test run 2 juice plugged in on 0 setting ran fine! Test 3 juice on max setting everything fine! Guess juice was having a brain fart like me at times!!!:lmao:I guess I was stressing over nothing! Thanks for the suggestion! --- Update to the previous post... cumminapart, what setting do you run your juice on?

Ok fellas I need some help again!!!:banghead::banghead::banghead: Driving my ole truck down the road, an she started acting funny! So I started watching the gauges and everything is running ok, except the apps. The apps will be maintaining about 25% and then it will drop to 0% , and then it will pick back up an take off like nothing was ever wrong! There is no check engine light and no codes. With the engine off I can pust the pedal and it will build from 0-100 slowly or all at once! Could the tps or apps be going out on me?

Well a few weeks ago I noticed my a/c wasn't working so I shot some freon in her! I let it set for a lil while, while I was letting it set I left! My brother called me and said that the low side line was leaking! So I ordered a new manifold line set! Got them in and was getting ready to start installing, an I noticed that the low pressure switch was a little loose! I tightened it up and pulled a vacuum! It wasn't leaking any more! Just a thought!!!

Well I go ahead an add a mechanical gauge just to be safe! Lord knows I've been dropping some bucks on ole "flash" lately! Last month alone has totalled about $2500, an I'm still adding to my wish list! Waiting on ProWelder to build a high idle fooler for me now!

Ok thanks I have the cts set to back down at 30, I notice when the boost starts getting close to 28 a yellow light comes on an it starts to defuel! I put the boost elbow that come with it in, do I need to put in a mechanical boost gauge too?

Thanks, so will the edge I have automatically back it down or do I need to watch it more closely?

Just went out an popped the hood, I have the HX35X. So I'm good to go?