NIsaacs

I would guess you need to change the oil. The clutches are probably grabbing and causing the ruckus. If the oil don't have the modifier included you will need to buy the bottle and add it. Depending on the size of the bottle it might need 2 of them.

Mine is not stock but DAP answered the question pretty good. My son swears by them but his were/are all 3rd & 4th gens. The pictures tell the story. I wonder if the 2nd gen don't need it, why the ads and all the intakes built for them.... This is copy and paste from the ad in the link for 2nd gens. "On a stock engine expect to see anywhere from 15 to 25 more horsepower. Modified engines will benefit further. This will make for better power, fuel mileage, spool-up and cooler EGT" DAP, thank you for the response! I guess I will look for something that does work

Soon after I bought my used '01 in '03 with 34k miles on it, I had a hard hot start. I was towing a pickup on a real hot day and let my fuel tank drop down till the low light came on, I wanted to fuel at one of my favorite stops. I have since rarely let it get below 1/2 tank and when it is hot I do not let the pump run before start. I hit start instantly, never a problem after that, 346k miles on the same oem VP. Keep your fuel tank on the top half and do the quick start and see if that helps.

Since the hot summer temps are here I have been running on level 3 on the Juice. It takes a long time to get the EGT's to 1300 now, so the new turbo seems to help some. I figured the larger turbine housing (18?) would cool the EGT's more and spool slower. The spool is quick, so maybe the 18 is matched with better wheels...I don't savvy them much What about aftermarket intake manifolds? Are the ads just marketing hype? They claim they are the best thing since sliced bread. I have been looking at this one: https://www.dieselautopower.com/diesel-power-source-arctic-air-intake-manifold-int-man-24v

I wouldn't assume anything without more trouble shooting. Did you check/clean the crankcase vent? Then start the truck again? Check all your exhaust manifold to head mounting ports for wet spots. Same thing for your turbo to exhaust manifold mounting gasket for a wetness. If you find a wet spot touch it with your finger and then taste it. Coolant has an obvious taste, oil not so much. If all is dry then check your turbo to exhaust pipe flange for wetness. Raw oil leaking out the back of the turbo can cause white smoke. What is the indicator of a cracked exhaust manifold? It should be obvious if it is. If the truck sits a lot, check for a rat nest in the filter intake or box. High vacuum from a plugged intake might suck oil past the turbo seals or the turbo might be bad. Pull the intake hose off and check for play in the shaft. Engine oil leaks on the drivers side of the engine is usually the vacuum pump or tappet cover. If the vent is plugged oil can leak everywhere. A head gasket leak to the outside is fairly common, inside not so much. Do you change coolant regularly?

$70 here: https://www.genosgarage.com/product/04897669ab/fuel-tank-components

Yes, I figured as much. I don't normally pay much attention to those two gauges, I can hardly see them. The main ones that I do watch, I have enlarged. When my VP or lift pump goes I will upgrade to the Raptor 150. Not sure why I bought the 100, it is for a stock truck but it has been a good one. I went through several stock ones, 1 Airtex, 1 Fass DDRP and now this for 4 years. The old VP keeps on a tickin, 344k so far. Picture of my tranny temp, about 160* but I never got above 5th gear. I have a tough 47 mile uphill haul I do about 4 times a year for 3 days and it will get up to 190 but 6th gear all the way. On a really bad windy day it got up to 210 so it was pulling harder or the wind disturbs the flow around the tranny. I was surprised at that. A two lane 65 mph road will run hotter than the freeway at 75 mph. I think that has to do with the air flow.

I am at 3/4 tank, 140 miles but 5 hour run/idle time, never shut the truck off. The AC was on about 3 hours. I am at 10-12 fuel psi at cruise power, 7-8 wot. I started with 70* fuel temp at 0700 hours this morning and shut down a little after 12. I was going to check fuel tank temp but forgot.

Fueled up first thing and drove to the pit, 26 miles, slow paved road, 35-50 mph. At the pit, 78* ambient, first picture, no AC. Return trip loaded, 85* ambient, second picture, no AC. After two complete round trips, 96* ambient, third picture, AC on. At cruise, 50 mph level road, 6 psi boost, 750* EGT, 78* ambient, IAT 115*. Same cruise, AC on, ambient 96*, IAT 131*. All pictures, stopped and Idling.

They are both Hercules Terra Trac AT2's, 10 ply. The D-250 has oem size 235/85x16 and '01 285/75x16. I will only get about 25k miles on the '01, that's normal for me. The Lamar has 215/75x17.5 (4800 lbs), 16 ply, the PJ has 235/75x17.5, 18 ply (6005 lbs)

First truck/trailer is a '91 D-250 w/'17 Load Trail 14k, 7'x16'x2'. Second truck is '01 2500 w/'12 Big Tex 14k, 7'x14'x2'. I do a lot of dump trailer hauls, anything that will fit and dump, including logs. The '91 is only used for lighter loads on good roads, the '01 is used for heavy loads and bad roads. It is rare for the '01 to not have a trailer on it for the past 8 years. Current haul trucks/trailers. The '01 is towing a '20 PJ 22k, 7'x16'x3', the '91 is towing a '18 Lamar 16k, 7'x16'x3. I don't need the 22k rating for weight, but I need it for durability off highway. Some of the remote roads are horrible, I will go anyway, Lol. It has a 10" I-beam frame w/10k Dexter torsion axles. The Lamar has 8" I-beam frame w/8k spring axles. The torsion is the only way to go, night and day between the two trailers. The PJ has 7 gauge floor and sides, the Lamar has 7 gauge floor with 10 gauge sides. The PJ is heavy, about 7400 lbs, the Lamar is 6500. The '01 2500/PJ dump combo is 15,280 tare weight, then I haul 6 ton so I am licensed for 26k, sometimes that is not enough....

What about idling with AC on for say 10-15 minutes? Mine goes up to about 140. Cruising down the highway it drops down a bunch. I assume it is the condenser heating the CAC at idle? On a long down grade with a load and exhaust brake on I have seen it at 160-170*. The higher the RPM/back pressure, the higher the temps.

Just hauled two loads of cinders, 36 mile round trip, ambient is 95*, little over a half a tank of fuel, it was 106* with IR gun. My street is 1/4 mile, I shut the AC off at my short drive way. At shut down 300* EGT, 181* coolant, fuel temp 152*, IAT 141*. This is with the Edge touch screen monitor, probably some difference from the Quad. I have another load to haul tomorrow, I will fuel up and check it again. The AC raises my IAT some, especially at slow speed.

That's normal temps for my truck, however, it is always towing at least an empty dump trailer (15280 lbs). 140* is a little high for hauling groceries. I don't have a typical, it varies by ambient temps, tank level and hours driven. Mine will vary just by the fuel stations storage, above ground or underground. That screen shot 84* fuel temp tells me it was dead of winter, like 0* ambient, not exactly typical. 12.6 mpg average, towing 17,300 gcw with 30" tires is not that special for these trucks. This is a copy and paste from a TDR post with 285/75x16 tires and 19k gcw, towing the Rocky Mountain states. This is with an Edge Juice (level 5) and high mileage RV injectors. "1228 round trip miles, 102.4 gallons of fuel gives me 11.99 mpg, I can live with that"

He said he just changed the filter. He also installed a Raptor pump....soda can??

That seems normal to me. Keep in mind the VP is bolted to the 180-190*+ engine block.

It might be the screen in your fuel pickup module, they can plug up over time. I helped a TDR member with the same issue as you, this is what we found: There are two screens in the module. One on the bottom of the sump and one in the little plastic canister with the suction hose attached. It was plugged solid.

Cool old two-six bits standing some fire https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pKuvwHioZCI

We used up two Dodge Neon's, a '98 and '05, both with 5 spd standard trannys. with 2.0 power, yeah...downshift on a 6% grade. The '17 Escape with the 2.0 Eco-boost will haul the groceries up an 8% grade in 6th gear (auto) cruise set at 68 mph and not wimp out. The first Ford since our '85 Escort Wagon (junk).

Here ya go Russ, no roots blower but has the back draft exhaust manifold. The common rail with the right muffler sounds very similar. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VH8F2lTO_B4

Are you running stock wheels? These front ends don't like non oem offset. I would make real sure you have a slight tow in on the alignment, about 1/16-1/8. Towed out, will assure death wobble.

I agree! I had one of those (320) in a '65 off highway KW, It was an EX Southwest Forest log truck. It had a log loader on it. I bought it at an auction in Redlands, California and drove it home (Lakeside, AZ) it took two days, Lol. It had 60k Rockwells with 10.14 gears, 4x4 trans, topped out at about 42 mph. It was setup for 1200x24's but had 1000x22's when I got it, the front axle did have 1300x24's. The second day it was getting late when I pulled a good grade not far from home and I saw an orange reflection in my right hand mirror, I leaned over so I could see better and it had a foot of fire standing off the exhaust pipe, gave me the chills They were loud with a 7" muffler, the 9" was a little quieter. The old timers always told me they could break windows in town. I never was around one but the old timers told stories of the old 1091 Hall Scott gasser, they would out pull anything of that era. They used two fuel pumps with a 5/8" line, lol.

Ouch! Yes, I can see the back of the tranny is discolored from heat. I would guess it got low on oil.

If you can't find one local I would just order one from Cummins, Gates from Geno's or a Stant from O'Rilleys or Rock Auto. In the mean time I would change back to your old one. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/stant-5674/cooling---heating-16773/thermostats-25043/thermostats-12876/555a1167c2f6/stant-thermostat/14288/5699633/1999/dodge/ram-2500?q=thermostat&pos=3 https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1999,ram+2500+pickup,5.9l+l6+diesel+turbocharged,1377569,cooling+system,thermostat,2200

The OP has a '98.5, so oem was 180* so is a '99, the 190* started in '2000. The 6.7 only used the 200* for model years '10-'12, all others use 190* In my opinion, the higher temp stats were emissions drivin, not what was/is best for the Cummins. My '91 has 330k miles on it and is 29 years old, yet it has never had a head gasket, tappet cover gasket or vacuum pump seals, I finally just changed the water pump. It has 180* from day one. Same with my '90 Ford Cummins, all gaskets and seals are original. My '01 oem was 190*, it has had all the gaskets changed and two sets of seals in the vacuum pump, 340k miles and 19 years old. I now run a 180* stat and all temps that matter are all cooler. Fuel temps and tranny temps to name two, reflect the 180* stat. I do haul heavy in high ambient temps all the time. I am considering a fan clutch from a 180* oem truck. I think with my 180* stat it would match better than my 190* clutch. It locks at about 200* - 205* now. My '91 locks at 190-195.