codie2379

I’ve done the WT mod as well and good new alternator can remember what noise is but it was low after all was done. I am leaning towards the vp44 on its last leg for a few reasons. 1) white smoke at idle 2) sometimes after working it hard, it will umm let’s say lope at idle. I did replace injectors roughly 1&1/2 years ago and for some reason I recall seeing a post from mopar1973man ( maybe mistaken) talking about low pop pressure and white smoke being linked? And maybe a failing vp44 being linked with white smoke. I’ll have to see if I can find it because I also remember something about idle above 800 and engine load below 8%. Mine idles at 800-810 rpm engine load between 5&6%. I don’t know much but I know I need my rig dependable hek maybe I’m looking at it to hard and just need to drive it!?

Just went for a test ride and it seems to be resolved but!! What are some things that come to mind if it resumes

So I have been having some surging issues under light pedal. It will consistently do this on any program I have on my quadzila, but no issues when turned to factory? I just installed a timbo apps and when I had cover off there is a sticker on the VP44 stating remanufactured. I bought the pickup 4 years ago from original owner and he never mentioned that the injection pump was ever replaced. Did they come from the factory remanufactured? Just seeing if anyone has seen this sticker on a pump from the factory

No I didn't lose anything per se. It was a bad shaft that got a nick in the metal that is ruining my output shaft and was over looked on the build. I knew about it back when it failed the first time but with my daily task of getting @MoparMom to dialysis I just resealed the shaft and told Ryan I would deal with it later. Now later is here winter time and things are slowing down I can send it in for a replacement shaft and new seals. What I meant to say " So you lost me here" meaning I wasn't tieing a power steering gear box together with clutch slippage or input shaft? So when I pull my camper, tractor, hay or anything I put my 245/75/17 on some 3rd gen wheels I have ( if I could grow up! a little more it wouldn't bother me on how it looks and I'd run them all the time ) Just running around I have a set of 285/75/18's which is basically a 35 by 11 ( not practical I know but looks good ) and is in fact what was on when I spun the clutch!!. When I re-gear I was going to go with 4.30 ratio do that seem correct to you? Thanks again I really do value your input But I think 4.10 is the breaking point of being able to use my carrier so if thats the case it will be 4.10s

So you lost here?? Yes I know you are 100% right I do need to change my gears and I will bite the bullet and do it, is there nothing that you know of to try as far as the clutch? or are you saying when final drive ratio is changed clutch might hold? Is there a benefit that you know of as far as stress reduction on other parts of the system that you gain when going to the larger input shaft? Thanks for the help

So about this time last year I installed a Valair 13" Upgrade clutch supposed to be rate at 400HP and 900fts torque ( I dont think I'm there but I could be wrong ) and I had zero problems but maybe 2 months ago I went to pass a line of vehicles and bumped up the Quadzilla up romped on it and slip went the clutch. Now it will slip on any setting except stock when I get on it and progressively has gotten worse. So now I'm looking at going to a dual South Bend but before I drop a grand 1) Anyone know of anything I should try to get the current clutch to heal itself or so to speak cause I dont!? 2) I am thinking about doing the 1.375 input shaft upgrade, is it necessary? What do you really gain?

When I get home from church I’ll look at voltage coming out of ecm, what was confusing me is something you committed on, I have never seen a short cause over voltage. Thanks for you help haller back with results

I get what you are saying and understand, but Step 2 in the procedure says to repair short to voltage on the same wire, repair if its above 5, repair if its below 5, only difference is whether the ignition switch is on or truck is running. What supplies that 5 volts or where is it regulated 1. Turn ignition off. Disconnect APPS harness connector. APPS is located on a bracket, just above fuel injection pump. Start engine and allow the engine to idle. Using DVOM, measure voltage at terminal No. 5 (Dark Blue/White wire) on APPS harness connector. If the voltage is greater than 5.5 volts, go to next step. If the voltage is 5.5 volts or less, go to step 3. I get 5.6 2. Turn ignition off. Turn ignition on with engine off. Using DVOM, measure voltage at terminal No. 5 (Dark Blue/White wire) on APPS harness connector. If the voltage is greater than 5 volts, repair short to voltage on Dark Blue/White wire between APPS and ECM when the ignition is on. ECM is located on driver's side of the engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. If the voltage is 5 volts or less, repair short to voltage on Dark Blue/White wire between APPS and ECM when the engine is running.

#4 APPS to #32 ECM has hardly any resistance but I don't believe that the ECM is bad yet!!! although it very well maybe! if some could explain to me what it means to repair short to voltage on Dark Blue/White wire between APPS and ECM when the ignition is on." Repair short to voltage? I don't get what this means to do please helps if I could complete this step then I could have confirmation that the ECM is indeed bad. maybe mopar1973man could explain

1. Turn ignition off. Disconnect APPS harness connector. APPS is located on a bracket, just above fuel injection pump. Start engine and allow the engine to idle. Using DVOM, measure voltage at terminal No. 5 (Dark Blue/White wire) on APPS harness connector. If the voltage is greater than 5.5 volts, go to next step. If the voltage is 5.5 volts or less, go to step 3. I get 5.6 2. Turn ignition off. Turn ignition on with engine off. Using DVOM, measure voltage at terminal No. 5 (Dark Blue/White wire) on APPS harness connector. If the voltage is greater than 5 volts, repair short to voltage on Dark Blue/White wire between APPS and ECM when the ignition is on. ECM is located on driver's side of the engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. If the voltage is 5 volts or less, repair short to voltage on Dark Blue/White wire between APPS and ECM when the engine is running. I still get 5.6 and I dont under stand what to do? I don't understand this statement " repair short to voltage on Dark Blue/White wire between APPS and ECM when the ignition is on." Repair short to voltage? I don't get what this means to do please helps 3. Turn ignition off. Using DVOM, measure resistance between ground and terminal No. 4 (Black/Yellow wire) on APPS connector. If resistance is 10 ohms or greater, go to next step. If resistance is less than 10 ohms, replace APPS. See appropriate REMOVAL, OVERHAUL & INSTALLATION article. I get 39 ohms 4. Start engine and allow the engine to idle. Turn ignition off. Turn ignition on with engine off. Using DVOM, measure voltage at terminal No. 2 (Light Green/Dark Blue wire) on APPS harness connector. If the voltage is 5.5 volts or less, go to next step. If the voltage is greater than 5.5 volts, repair short to voltage on Light Green/Dark Blue wire between APPS and ECM. ECM is located on driver's side of the engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. I get 5.2 5. Turn ignition off. Disconnect ECM harness connector. ECM is located on driver's side of the engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. Using DVOM, measure the resistance of Black/Yellow wire between terminal No. 4 on APPS harness connector and terminal No. 32 on ECM connector. If resistance is 10 ohms or greater, repair open in Black/Yellow wire between APPS and ECM. If resistance is less than 10

I have 7 x .0085 DAP I installed them new about 4 months ago, any idea what they would set the pop at? Auto-Meter Manual Boost gauge not a big fan of electronic gauges. I will down load app and start tracking Thanks

So I finished up installing my Quadzilla Adrenaline with V2 programming and absolutely love it!!! Man I wish I had never wasted money on another programmer really happy with what it is capable of. But I do have a few questions, I have read Mikes programming info guide, but maybe I need some things in a more dumb downed version lol. But the more I read it the more pieces I seem to put together. Question 1) when I really get on it and hit 5 gear where it has a long time to pull hard, power fades in and out? The boost is like a slow pulse it basically wont hold say 30lbs it goes 20ish then spikes past 35 then back down and back up in lets say 1.5 sec surges. What would cause that? As far as tune it looks like this Pump Stretch 1200,TPS Max 100%, TPS Min 25%, Min Pump tap 0%, Pump Low Boost Scale 10 psi, Boost Scaling 30 psi, Timing max load offset 2, Low PSI timing Reduct 3, Timing reduct scaling 50%, Light Throtle timing adv 2, Light throttle load limit 25%, RPM Timing max 14 17.5 21 24 27, can Bus starts a 89 grows 1%to 8psi (97%) then grows by 3.5 through the rest of the scale. 1) I'm scared of timing because no head studs so I'd take advice!! I will say that the Smarty I was running on the fuel economy setting, seemed/felt to have an *** load of timing in comparison maybe? 2) I was shocked when I saw my boost gauge wrap all the way around past 35 and pin the needle at the 6 oclock position!! How do I control that? Whats too much boost with no stud? and I sure its a combination of boost and timing that I need to be conscious of? 3) How do I develop an economy tune when I live such a changing environment? Example I live at 3200 ft elevation at the base of the Blue Mountains in Washington, I work at a Dam on the snake river at 150 ft elevation dropping and pulling 3 grades all of them a couple miles long (two 7% one 9%) on my commute. So engine load is all over the place. Thanks for the advice

Ok Ill put a ticket in, its only a monthm or 2 old thanks.

If I unplug the high idle harness and plug the factory wiring into the sensors I do not get any codes, plug/hook up the high idle harness I get P0112 INTAKE AIR TEMP VOLTAGE LOW & P1693 DCT DELETEDIN COMPANION JTEC MODULE. Any ideas?

Thanks watched the video worked like a charm ? Yep thanks man

10-4

I’m sorry Me but how or where do I find instructions to do that? I really appreciate the help man

Hopefully someone can help me out I'm stumped, windows 10 machine follow instructions but on step 2 where the black box and count down should happen I get nothing? computer recognizes there is a device as it connects and disconnects about every 3 seconds but that's it. Any ideas??

Thanks for the info I appreciate it!! One more question I noticed it has a high idle on it, will your high idle that I already installed interfere with it? Is the high idle on the quadzilla selectable meaning when I want it to high idle can I simply turn it on regardless of temps? Thanks a ton I really appreciate it Thanks I appreciate it ?

I am going to order a Quadzilla and would like some input from y’all. Options I see are 4K Adrenaline with Iquadbt for apple or adroid a non 4K model and a non 4K with control pod. What’s the difference between 4K and non 4K ? Android vs apple in reference to your phone preference or desktop? Advantages one way or the other? Anything else I should order when I place the order? Thanks a ton

Very good info I’m glad I didn’t let my pride get in the way and keep me from asking my original question!! I whacked a slick head the other day doing about 60, Insurance finally squared up with me so I have a bumper on order, inner cooler, and radiator sitting in shop. Looks like it will be a lot easier to do this mod with everything out of the way. Really appreciate the info and help. FYI MOPAR1973MAN I installed your high idle kit yesterday works great glad I ordered it.

What is the benefit to this mod other than haveing another open terminal? And thanks for the input and dripley that makes sense appreciate it

Maybe a numb question but I can figure it out. Fuse box in the engine bay, 140 amp alternator fuse, there is a positive and negative lead coming from the batteries. Why am I not getting a good ground there? Would be a nice clean place but I can’t get a good ground!! Can anyone enlighten me

Thanks for the reply and the pic I’m still leaning on going that direction mainly because I’m there and IMO it’s a better system. Thanks again

What’s your thoughts on just sliding the lock collar over and manually fixing the cad system fork with a bolt and a couple nuts to basically have both sides turning all the time? Other than having one axle in two pieces joined with the coupling it would basically be like the 01&02s I think? I totally agree that there is very little payback on free spins and will probably never run anything bigger than a 35 and even that’s doubtful pretty good with the 285/70s I’m running.