pepsi71ocean

This When i grew up if onc coming traffic is flashing that means one of two things, 1. there is a cop sitting in a speed trap, or 2. big deer are ahead. God, i don't know the speeding crazy either, the speed limit on the parkway is 65, and i do 65, and im still getting passed by people who 75-80 and the staties don't care.

there are threads between here and cf about my issues and mine came from their main shop. tell me more about your issues. i call bs, but i also would say that its important to make sure that the cables themselves are good. cuz ive noticed that sometimes the cables are usually suspect. Personally i don't like the idea of the block having multiple paths to ground in this case, since i think there are already two grounds to the actual block its self. and when ohm testing or doing a vDrop test you should be going from main cable to main cable and unhook the rest of the cable from the engine.

the trucks work fine for 10 years, replacement of worn parts is paramount,would you want to feed your 1,200 dollar ECM dirty power haha...most of the trans isues do back track to leaking diodes out of the alternator. and rebuilt ones they rebuild what failed, not everything. so if the diodes are marginal then they may not replace them, and wham! failed alternator out of the box.

According to my SGII on my truck with a 200F t-stat in im between .4 and .6 gph. but as for reality i don't know. I slept once for 8 hours and burned about 4 gallons of diesel so i think that sounds about right.

So some numbers to compare http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/4561/fuelup.bmp while to be judgmental i changed the t-stat on the 13th, and filled up the morning of the 14. so the first tank of fuel with the new t-stat was indeed a solid 1mpg. and i have minus the towing, and other screwing around with the smarty clocked a consistent 17mpg, in 45-50F weather at night same time same trips every time.

Hey Guys,I have been playing with the smarty settings for the last tank and a half, since i realized that my mpg went several up on the way to long island. So today i spent the better part of 3 hours adjusting settings.i stayed on sw7, and changed tm, timing, and duration to stock, and one to maximum at a time. I ran a circuit on the roads here at several speeds, 55, 60, 65, 70, and 75 mph. along with Mike Nealson we tri9ed to figure this guy out.when the tm was on 6, the truck ran low boost and low pyro's at all 3 major speed levels. boost was uncontrollable at times, spiking from 8-10 psi to a violent 15-20 sometimes 25, it seemed that the hills and bumps in the road affect throttle throw and would cause sever surging.when timing was maxed out, the truck ran good, accelerated very fast, especially on a pull from 55-90mph. smoke was non existent.running duration on max also gave us good solid boost, even though it was somewhat high for the speeds tested at. the raised duration however did affect spool up, and had less coal then tm maxed out. overall right now i have tm on 2, timing on 2(or 3, idr), and duration on 2. This set up i keep hitting a consistent 27-35mph on the sgII, so well have to fill the truck up tonight or tomorrow and see where its going.

well guys and update. Since changing the smarty settings im not seeing much difference, the last fuel ups from 4/8 are 4/13 17.6 mpg 5 day cycle 4/18 16.9mpg 5 day cycle 4/21 17.3 mpg 3 day 4/23 18.8 mpg 2 day <- this was a separate tank just for a trip to long island and back (and work the next day or so) roughly 428 miles round trip. Im about 1/2 a tank now and im interested to see what this next tank yields. the only noticable difference i see is that my truck is way quieter now at idle when warm. while not as quiet as a 6.7 ide say from the cab it is. Outside it sounds like the 6.7 when the eb is on when cold. i do know that when i pull up my stree at 7am no one hears me anymore unlike when i leave. im going to have to start messing around with my timing and duration to see what i get. i started a thread on cf and am hoping to hear an answer.

they were all maxed out, i changed it to sw7, with 6TM, 2 for timing, and 2 for duration. i might change the timing to 1 and see if the smoke clears up, i know that the black smoke is alot less now then before. Quote: From CumminsForum [TABLE=width: 100%] [TR] [TD=class: alt2] Originally Posted by swtjames23 Hey, thanks for the info bud. I found that I lost about 1 mpg when I had my winter front on and temps were above freezing. The fan clutch was engaging more because of the lack of air flow into the engine compartment, I could hear it howling especially after I had been driving for a while. Not saying it's for sure your problem but something to consider [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] I was thinking of what you were saying so i pulled mine off as well, and holy crap was it hot under there. i lost about 15F out of my IAT's and my trans temp dropped about 40F thus far, and i have no clue about the mpg, but i hope it goes up.

well i wound up completely screwing my mileage up after i towed this tractor, and then a huge boat. after talking to mike it seems i don't have my smarty tuned right since i had no balls and alot of smoke down low. i felt it towing the tractor but that boat made me go nuts. i'll report back with tank numbers in a bit. - - - Updated - - - Some numbers, so i did a bit of driving before i towed that tractor around. So this fill up is based on towing the tractor from the repair shop to my house, then towing a enclosed trailer around down south because one of her family friends had a fire a few apartments down, and she was lucky, the apartment next to her friends looked like something out of a war movie... anyways that tank of fuel yielded 16.6, which sucks because like i said i was doing good till that last 100 miles or so. Now this tank of fuel lasted a meager 372 miles, and was horrible at 15.8. However i should point out that this was almost all towing miles. I drove to work Friday night, then picked up the tractor and trailer (about 4,500 lbs), and then took that back and fourth Saturday and Sunday to lbi, about 40 miles each way. while there i also wound up moving boats with my truck, and she did a fair amount of idling as well. I also changed the smarty settings to try and control smoke, and this lack of low end grunt power, turns out my settings were all off, thanks to mike nealson we started messing with that. the main reason was the lack of throttle response below 1,900 rpm's it was killing me because i had this 10,000 or 12,000 lbs boat i wound up towing to a different marina, and i picked up another boat and brought it elsewhere, so yes my mpg sucked. It was super hot out today, about 70F and i still have the winter front on. While towing this heavy boat i noticed my coolant temps held right around 200-202 the whole time, IAT's were in the 110 range.

Ok fuel up time again. And i have a video for those non believers about my draw straw..Anyways last night i pushed the truck to see how far she would go, i made 510 miles on 29.5 gallons. which was 17.3 (according to fuelly).As before the previous fill up was 3-22, today is 3-30. 8 days, 510 miles...In reality i clocked 509.6 on the trip, and 29.515, which equates to 17.265. I am stunned that despite the crappy weather driving on Monday and the idling on Sunday that i even broke 500, i didn't think i was, i know that much.However i do know that my truck is on empty below empty.. So i know when i bent my sending unit i did it right.

i have to ask mike when the fan clutch engages, but thus far i have not seen any issues as such.

Well i couldn't get the mopar forum to post the other day so i held off until i could. I just copied what i wrote on CF. Well guys, i was torqued as to weather to fill up yesterday, or today, and i decided to go for the 500 Mile mark. I filled up this morning at 500.1 on the trip, and at 29.19 gallons. When exact numbers are thrown i got 17.18 Mpg. Yes a solid 1mpg. However i have collected data for about 8 days now on this new t-stat and i'll upload videos with time. So far, the avg temperature is between 197-202, The IAT's @41F are 94-96, the coolant was also running in the 200 Range. last night it was 30F out, and my IATs were averaging 85-87F out, and coolant was between 198-202F. Earlier in the night the truck was still warming up, @186F the IAT's were 76F. So here we can see where its 30F out, the difference in IAT's is about 10F between 186 and 200F. This video also shows the warm up from 186F to 206F, then when it settles you see IAT's then rise and level off. Then this morning it was 25F out, and i shot a video(main to prove to you guys thatt he draw straw when CUT CORRECTLY will not give you issues:ban ghead: Anyways my IAT's were a steady 81-83F, coolant held steady at 200F as usual. I should have some videos uploaded in a bit, im combing through them to find the videos, and cutting out other non cummins related stuff I can believe it now, i drove my truck to work Friday night and back and the SG was reading 18.8, the SG's fuel consumption seems about right so i divided it out against the ODO and it seems about what the SG reads. For me from 1 to 7/8;'s is about 4 Gallons (about 3.75 To be exact), and i divided it out by 79.8 (trip) Either way i slice it im landing between 18-20 MPG, so i'll see what i get come empty again. hopefully i can exceed my 500.1 MPG on this tank. It sounds like what both of my older t-stats were doing, i replaced the older one with another one that was bad from NAPA, so then i read about the 200F t-stat and decided to try it. I have a winter front on as well. But my heater system would take forever to warm up. i got mine from the dealer P/N 68067109-AB. Just tell them you need it, lol, my dealership never asked for a Vin Number.

So guys, this thread has been quiet because im waiting to fill my truck up.To put it frankly, i filled up on 3/14, and now its the 21 and i still have diesel left :cookoo:This is very good since tomorrow is pay day, and i have 11 dollars in checking, lolI have added 420 miles on the odometer, and im between E and 1/8 tank, which translates to 21-24 gallons of diesel burned.I will add another 60 tonight roughly before filling up, so my ending mileage should be close to 500. Now this tank was not all mpg either, i had some rough driving, i towed a boat (only about 4,000 lbs), and picked up a load of firewood as well. I must be on crack because the numbers are showing a 2mpg overall gain from what i normally see. The fuel economy on fuelly has been accurate lately, since i started doing it, and we will see tomorrow what i will have for a total.

Well guys, an update.The scan guage has intermitent non connection issues,for example yesterday and two days ago the SG wouldn't turn on when driving, so i know that it will be off.I can say that my MPG is better, i hit 7/8's of a tank @ 80miles, which is better then 17 mpg. Then i went an ruined it the other day with some real localized stuff, and some lead footing. but then i got back on track after i was done that.The biggest plus is the cab heat, i can't say enough how i love it been 20F out and i can have a warm windhsield and a warm cab. I wouldn't think 10F would make this much of a difference but it does.As for the MPG well see, i have been driving like i normally do, and have seen an increase even if its not overall.

Ok guys, so due to the fact my scan gauge was off by over a gallon when i filled up the truck today i consider my GPH figures completely wrong. However i can tell the fuel economy is there just my the amount of driving 121 miles, and the fact that the SG told me i burned like 6.5 gallons of diesel, which seems about right for the gauge. My last 10 fill up's list my avg mpg at 15.58mpg, with a tank high of 18.1, and a tank low of 12.2. If i add up just the last 6 fill up's (that were not drag racing), i avg 15.88. With a low of 15.0 and a high of 16.3. This last tank i netted 16.2 on 277 miles, 121 of which were spent with my new 200F t-stat in. Now for the good news. my t-stat cycles between 198-202F in the truck IAT's were much warmer then before. Now for the best part!. I was at the exe's this morning it was cold out about 30F. I pulled up to idle down and her bed room is about 30F from the street where i was, she heard my truck but it was quieter, but she said when she got to the living room she couldn't hear the truck anymore, that is right, for once she couldn't hear me! (in the living room) I also could tell it was quieter as well when i opened the door, this thing really quiets down above 198F. Also a note of CAUTION! I did some testing with the heating system today, and my heater system on MAX AC with the heat on high and to the max was putting out air in the 175-180F range according to my temperature gun, i will shoot this again tomorrow from a different angle to confirm, but it felt so nice to be warm for once when its 30F out. Tomorrow i will perform this test here for a comparison, it says no more then 40F lower. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/27-hvac-heating-ventalation-and-air-conditioning/86-heater-performance-diagnostics But from experience i know that before the most i could ever get from my trucks heating system was maybe 150 on max ac. this is most interesting.

Ok gentlemen, my 200F dodge stat came in and i swapped it into the truck. This experiment is based on comparisons of the 200F Mopar stat to the 195 Napa one. I decided to take the plunge in this, and will post up pictures later from my phone showing the two T-stats. The Mopar one is definitely looks Cummins to me, and is very beefy to start with. My Mopar one cost roughly 60 bucks out the door at the stealership, im sure one can find one cheaper elsewhere. I'll also grab a part number, but there is another thread somewhere on CF that lists it. Its a 6 series though. I decided that since no one else will play with this monster i should be the first. This is in reference to this thread here http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/579307-what-kind-thermostat-best.html So far, some baseline stats. Highway speed @ 65mph, temps 184-188, IAT 89-94 @ 45. GPD @ level, 2.40Gph(aproxx) Short idle, temps 184, IAT 105-114@ 45, GPH@ .74-.80 long idle , temps 179, IAT 96-105@ 45. GPH@ .80-.90 All units are in F. Also a short idle is say a stop ligt, to up to 7Mins. Anything over 5-7 Mins is considered a long idle. thus far today since i swapped it in, (and it burped), my temps are holding a stead 200-203F, idle gph was between .54 and .67! Thats amazing. Now we should also note that the scan guage that im using also is calibrated for the current running MPG. i expect this to change. I also took a short trip this afternoon. and we shall see over the next week or so how the temperatures handle. Tonight will be the first night of idling to say after i get to work, so we shall see.

the spring mod added tension to the tv cable, this raises the shift points, if you have a tuner like a smarty that changes throttling, then the cable mod does wonder because stock you have your truck shifting at 1,300 rpms to the next gear because your barely on the throttle, now if you have the tv mod it raises the shifts to cover the lack of accelerator pedal movement. as such the spring mod also has the added effect of increasing the holding pressure, and when your commanding the truck a gear, Ie shifting the truck to 2 at 50MPH you will notice that the truck holds better then if you have no spring mod. - - - Updated - - - i shot a video and well the truck didn't do anything different when downshifting, but that is because my spring is really hard, i can't add any more static tension on it.

i'll have to shoot a video for you to compare.your truck is shifting really high for a stock power band, if i unload my smarty i have to take the spring mod out because she shifts at the 2,500-3,000 rpm level, but when the smarty is on it is down lower around 2,000-2,100

hey guys, try this it has worked for me and i don't have an eb. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-performance-parts-discussion/534021-stronger-pull-trans-cable-without-limited-throw-7.html i have really good holding power in second, when you have the right set of springs, but my advice is to have a programmer handy when you use a harder spring, because my truck with the smarty on lvl 9 works great with a stiff spring, she shifts out at 2,100 about every gear under moderate acceleration, and all of my gears hold better especially 2nd.

I believe the difference is how the torque reversals effect the plate. When your "throttling" the crankshaft goes through torque reversals to power the vehicle forward, when braking your taking the full weight of the truck+ trailer and then sending it backwards to the motor. kinda hard to explain but that plate is coupling the torque converter to the motor, if the TC is in lock up then the full weight of the load is now acting on the motor to stop it, the constant torque load IMO is what will do a flexplate in, but this is theory after all. from what i have gathered the spring adjustments biggest addition is line pressure to the clutches, my truck shifts out of first gear between 2,000-2,100, and second gear if i get into the throttle about 1/4-1/3 of the way should shift out at the same 2,000-2,100. IIRC of course I have to go shoot a video. You will notice it when decelerating since the truck will feel more aggressive when slowing down.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-performance-parts-discussion/534021-stronger-pull-trans-cable-without-limited-throw.html a good billet flexplate should be 300-400 dollars by its self. the input shaft requires dissambly of the pump and forward clutch pack i believe.

need to ask sasquash or jim that one. answers are in blue as well

That im not sure of, but i do know that the smart computer that they have that senses the ECM when its in idle validation that also turns on and off the brake, also lock and unlocks the TC. You have to cycle the ignition and the brake switch to get it to switch to the 48re programming. in 48re programming if i rememebr correctly pacbrake said that the brake is engaged as long as the engine is idling, and your vehicle speed is greater then i think 10 mph, you have to manually downshift to 2 in your tranny. (although i go to 1 and it downshifts to 2 as well, and then to 1. I do like the fact that pacbrake will also turn on to warm the engine up if the engine is cold. The only upgrades i would recommend are if you have a built tranny, the TC lock up is rough on them, and that is why most of the builder i talked to say to run a billet input shaft and billet flexplate, because if you break either of them your ruining your transmission. from what i have heard from dave and stephen, the only billet internals are a flex plate and input shaft, because the billet intermediate shaft is not much stronger then the stock one, and the output shaft only really breaks if you do 4wd boosted launches, i have never heard of someone doing that towing. The reason is because if you break either the flexplate or the input shaft you usually trash your pump, and your torque converter, and sometimes the case might crack depending.

i have had that happen a few times, to where i have 3 keys i keep on me. 1 is hidden on the truck, the other is the driving key. this key goes from ignition to hidden spot in the car. the other key is on my key chain ring which is on my hip, this is used to unlock the door only.i have done it so many times they though i had altimeters. !

the newer ones are smart controllers, you need to flash the controller to the 48re programming in order to brake below 30 mph, this is because the 47re couldn't do it stock. when you flash it over to the 48re programming you can get down to i think 10mph. i spoke to pac about this a year ago when i was looking at brakes for the truck. just rememebr to have some billet internals like an input shaft and flexplate when you do this. The alternative is to just hotwire your pac to run when you want it to with a lock up switch.