pepsi71ocean

you torqued to 72 inch lbs and then backed off 2 turns correct?

it has been warmer out, and i have finally passed the first 1,000 miles, the trans doesn't stall out as much when warm but still does it.one thing i noticed is when the truck does stall, it blows white smoke out like crazy sometimes, for 2-4 seconds after, almost like a timing thing. however once again throw it right into gear, or double tap the pedal and no stalling and no smoke either.im going to do my trans fluid change and band adjustment with DTT over the phone, and i'll plug away at the tech's brain over this.i noticed my truck idles closer to the 800 line, much closer then before.

ill say the advantage of the smarty is how fast and hard the fuel comes down low.you will slip a stock trans on level 9, and not try. it fuels hard from 1,200-2,000 rpm's and it kicks hard.:thumbup2:this is why its a killer towing programmer.

An update.. After my last batch of fuel the stalling is very sporadic. Apparently letting the truck get the alternator up to 14v before moving it into gear seems to prevent some stalling, while tapping the pedal seems to fix it completely before tossing it into gear. If i let it idle away for more then 5 mins without putting it into gear she stalls every time, however like stated above tapping the throttle a bit will prevent this. I still find it strange that the stalling occurs even when its 70F out. regardless of trans temp or engine coolant temp as well. Im starting to suspect a VP-44 that might not be 10% there, like mike was thinking its possible that i have a VP-44 that has the wrong key way or could be loading up who knows. I spoke to DTT today about that 1,000 mile trans fluid change, and that will be my task on Saturday, when speaking of the issue, they say that the TSB 18-14-01 fixes the issue at hand, but i have found that the dealership is being hard on me, refusing to work on the truck.:banghead: all in all, im wondering what the root cause is underlying, i still think that it has to do with timing and fueling, but until i can get a dealer to look at the truck all bets it seems are off. JOHNFAK: did you ever check your idle rpm's for me?

im kinda stumped, i have never experienced this, are you sure its not on half power mod? and your fear about the auto is a valid one, the smarty on level 5-7 can really turn tires at low rpm. what are your pyrometers like when driving? And ide set it at no more then lvl 3, ide try 3 or 4 and see what that does.

did you replace both electrical sensors, the governor pressure and the solenoid one?

on the Cummisn forum there is a thread about swapping a FSO into our trucks. IMO a 5,6,7 speed EF is the way to go. the 10 speeds are over kill, you won't even get to use it because its a 5 speed with a high low gear box. now, a good built trans with a billet flex plate, and input shaft will run you in the 4's and for that you know the truck will run like a top, unlike having to locate a SAE #2 bell housing, and rigging up a whole assembly for the swap, and even then it most likely won't run right. Here are some relevant threads for some light reading http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/476524-another-write-up-swapping-47re-nv4500.html http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/41978-nv5600-fso6406a-6-speed-fuller.html

my advice is to use baby powder and sprinkle it onto the tubes, if it turns green you have a leak there.

there were no 3.73's for 2nd gen trucks, your rpm's are spot on for 3.55's ide blame the pump more then the injectors, but good news is injectors can be tested for next to nothing.

the tar and carbon that have built up from lack of use.Im a firm believer in the cooking off theory, i know of trucks around here that do nothing but haul heavy boats for a living and they including the pistons are as clear as a bell, while if i drive my truck around at (550-600F) it has a nice carbon and tar build up.

ISX:While i have not pulled my injectors, i will say you need to run for more then a mile. I usually take it for a 2 or 3 hours run, and my truck seems to run better.1,100F for several hours will empty off any and all buildup.

Why coast in netural, keep her in gear and keep your foot on the accelerator pedal, and slowly back off and you will keep her in gear, that will work better then trying to free wheel some slopes and watching you smoke your brakes. I also am sorry to hear about your Aunts problems. Everyone has their time..:banghead: Best advice you have stated mike, when ever i want to clean the injectors i would hook up one of our heavy trailers and take her for a spin.

it sounds like your TV cable might be out of adjustment.

Considering the VP-44 is not a rugged Mechanical pump like the P7100's ide avoid anythign that could cause issues, considering the Vp-44 runs at the highest operating pressures of all the mechanical pumps.If your willing to risk 2,000 dollars to see how it works then its fine, but when your injectors and Vp-44 are burn out after 50,000 miles then it was a lesson learned.IMO regardless of the true 5w nature of this transformer oil, its still oil, The Vp-44 is cooled, and lubricated by combining the sulfur and nickle in the diesel t make a high pressure lubricant, and now that has been supplemented by the addition of 2 stroke oil.IMO ide stick with tried and proven, 2 stroke FTW.

ide first see if it is indeed TC drain back, if so then you need a new check ball valve.If not then its something else.

try my write up first. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/39-transmission-systems/257-automatic-transmission-diagnostic-chart But i know that delayed upshifts are causes by two things, 1. bad VSS, or a valve body malfunction/clog. I would first check your pressures, you should see no more then a 5 psi difference between your govenor and main line port. And even then, odds are if this was fine and now doing this im going to say replace your output sensor, its most likely failing. tightenign the bands will do nothing, tighten them to spec and leave them alone.

think you'll be fine, i was gaining ~1/2-1 gallon of diesel in 500 miles, and the cummins is still here, im hoping to flush the fuel out of it, but not sure if frequent oil changes will be the true answer.IMO, if you have the money, change your oil. I bought 10 gallons of 15-40 and 12 3959 filters for the truck, with the knowing that i'll burn them all up trying to clean the cummins out.If you do change it its just insurance, since you will notice it on your trip if your gaining oil.

this was taken about 10 seconds after i put the dip stick on it.You have some dilution, but its to early to tell, usually you can tell if your gaining oil, typically within a few hundred miles you should gain oil, i gained an inch on the dipstick withing 300 miles, and now that my VP-44 is fixed, i have to do frequent oil changes to try and flush the diesel out.if your oil is black your fine, if its green, or looks brand new then you got a problem.

did you see my pictures? yea, but a improperly seated injector is more or less if you leave that copper washer in there, and have two by mistake.

Aftermarket pumps like the FASS or Airdog even rapotors, will easily push fuel through the VP-44. Yes a hair over 190 is normal. As for those tubes, i have never seen crossover tubes like that, the only thing i can think of is that the crossover tube is not sealing properly against the head and causing fluid to get inside and then turn to rust?? As for injectors, yea that is normal, the best thing to do is to get a heavy trailer say 10,000 and up and take it for a spin for a few hours and keep the pyro's above 1,000F and it will burn off. As for diesel in the oil, if you get diesel in the oil you will know. this is what it looks like. My best advice is that you won't gain any diesel, if you did then you would know there is only two ways to get diesel in your motor oil 1. a worn cylinder, 2. bad Vp-44... Anyways you will know because you will gain oil, and after 1,000 miles it will look like that! you inserted the injectors, then crossover tubes, then tightened the fittings down then tightened the injectors? your fine. Unlike the CR injectors, VP injectors are almost idiot proof, and you will know the things will leak like a sive, your have a miss and hard starting. unless you get symptoms i think your fine. with the CR trucks just cranking it will cause the fuel to flow into the rail and right through the return. they are easier then the VP trucks.

i tend to do 1,3,4,5 and fine that 5 usually bleeds first, then 1... Its good to let your starter rest, that is why i let the lift pump cycle, because my fass will push the fuel through the vp-44, and to the lines.

back pressure is desirable before the turbo, but after the turbine, its best to have the least pressure available. so the answer is NO, no back pressure is desired in the exhaust. a 3 inch is fine, especially straight piped. there is no need to go 4" unless you have plan for towing, or use which requires a exhaust brake, or say an aftermarket turbo.

the only lines you should have torqued down to 28 ftlbs, is lines 2 and 6. the rest 1,3,4,5, should be completely off of your head, as in the nuts are sitting loose. then crank the engine for 30 seconds, and then let the lift pump run for its 20 second prime cycle. after each cycle, (as the lift pump is running) jump out and look to see if your lines are weeping, as soon as they do then tighten them up. once all 6 line nuts are tight then tighten down your brackets(the things with the blue on them), and i mean bolt down the brackets to the engine, then tighten the brackets themselves. it should take maybe 10 or 15 mins at this point. your aftermarket lift pump should push the fuel through the VP-44. You did bleed the air out of the fuel line going to the VP-44 correct? Maybe i am mis reading, but it sounds like you had the lines tight, then started loosening them? when done, your truck should be like mine, and start right up after 1/2 cycle of the crankshaft, now then join me in the club of stalling out, lolz

you have lines 1-3-4 loose, like completely loose? as in the nut is not on the crossover tube? and your cranking it?

does your egt gauge reset after your turn the truck off? my egt gauge was off as well, till i figured that out. If your running a raptor 150, with stock fuel lines and 250's for injectors i can clearly see your restriction. a 1/2 Draw straw, with 1/2 or 3/8's fuel lines will cure your issues, along with bigger banjo fittings. (unless you replace the lines from the fuel filter to the VP-44. your problem is indeed a restriction. My Fass 95 with all in signature runs 16psi at idle and under fully load will only drop to a hair below 15psi. and that is 1/2 draw straw, and 3/8 steel braded USCG fuel line from straw to pump, and 3/8's fass fuel line from pump to VP.