pepsi71ocean

the skinny is that the alternator makes electricity, as the brushes wear out the electricity becomes "dirty" by emitting RF noise(similar to static on the radio). As the RF noise increases then other electrical components start to become affected, the first is the TC lock up mainly because you can feel it, the other components will over time degrade as the RF noise starts to wreek havoc on them. I have had two trucks with the Tc/lock up issue that were as a result of a worn alternator, somewhere between 130,000-200,000 miles is when they start to go, and this of course depends alot on idle time.

i noticed the smarty helped me alot in the in town mpg. but the smarty also changed the fueling map. I noticed that the 60HP injectors gained me a good 1.5-2 mpg mainly because it shortens the duration that the injector is opened, resulting in better power and a quieter motor.

i was about 17-18mpg when i had the stock trans and smarty, throwing injectors in i was over 20-21, then i blew the timing piston in the VP-44, and now im down to 10mpg with the smarty on fuel economy mode. although i have a new Vp-44 on the way.

with a built transmisison your TV cable should be about 1:1 at WOT, so a stock trans will have about 3/16's inch of play, rather a fully built one like my DTT is tight when your at WOT. The noise isolator is crap, i wouldn't waste my time with it. All a noise isolator does is cancel out the RF noise coming from the alternator, ide best to load test the alternator then the batteries....Otherwise your PCM and ECM will also fail when the RF gets bad enough to cause them to go nuts as well.

stacked shifts under light load could be a TV cable out of adjustment, or the VSS on the tail shaft of the tyranny is culprit.but if you wake up and your truck won't leave 1st gear then we know what the problem is.

I bought a case of 12 from the local Cummins dealer for 9.21 a filter? why pay 15+ online? Buy in bulk and save, i started buying it by the case then i could really see the savings.

i think you missed what i said, everyone has their opinions, (while my smarty is acting up now) i will say that the smarty is a useful tool to have, and i have seen a good 2 mpg increase with it when i put it on fuel economy mode. just understand that you can't really tow more then 4,000lbs or so with it on that mode. the edge and quads don;'t have a separate mpg mode yet but they work differently. All in all my best tank was set (before i lost the Vp-44) was 21mpg, with stuff in sig minus injector's. Even with a deal Vp-44 my truck gained a good 2mpg with those 60hp injectors, so im curious to see what my mpg goes up to once i get the new Vp-44 in.

when it comes to mpg, smarty, edge, quad, etic everyone has their opinoins. i do believe you can see the new DAP injectors before i install them, in the injector video, but i do think so, they could be remanned and rebuilt etic. i have over 15,000 in my DAP's and don't have any issues at all. i don't see why they wouldn't last 250k...But ask Jacob im sure he can tell you. What kind of firearms are you selling?

the ones with the pictures, those are the ones i have. IMo for a truck like yours a nice set of 60's or 75's will really wake it up. I would actually say no more then 75Hp, and no less then 60's, anything less is a waste of money,a nd anything more might require you to bump turbos dow the road if you got a programmer. injectors will last 250,000 miles before having to be re shimmed, IMO for what your spending its best to just grab some new ones. Having a built auto means adding larger injectors will be more of a benefit, because you will be able to use that added HP. With my 60's (and stuff in sig), i gained a good 2mpg when i did the injector swap. so 60's will net you the best fuel economy IMO.

Expensive? i buy mine by the case a Case of 3959's cost me $9.21 a filter? Im also a frequent client of the Local Cummins Shop, and they don't charge shipping if you are not in a rush, so i buy a case of filters, and always send them a gift basket at the holidays.... there is no such thing as a half case, its a full case of 12, what i did was aks where the price break was, and they said 12. the next one was at i think 60 and then it was another dollar off. It makes me wonder about the GDP, and other sites where they charge 14 a filter.

my truck has done the same thing even though i changed out injectors. In the end im 100% its my VP-44's going out, it cannot achieve timing on its own, and so i have found if your running 800F, to slowly back the pedal off a little bit and you will find your temps fall, but the speed won't. i know its not injectors because my truck does the same thing, just that im sure brand new DAP injectors wouldn't do that right out of the box from mile one of install.

if you have 200K on them, ide just send them to DAP and get some 40 or 60HP injectors and then enjoy new injectors, and better mpg and Hp as well.problem solved.

Huh? typically you can get 250,000 out of a set of injectors? unless im reading something wrong.

unless your replacing them , most of the time you don't have to get new copper washers, unless you mix the washers up, each washer is crushed to the proper height so if you put the injectors back as they were you are fine. basically, you take them apart one at a time.O rings should be replaced regardless(just the ones on the crossover tubes, they can be had from Cummins for about 1.25 a piece.The injector O rings are fine, just put some oil back on them before you slide them in.As for checking spray pattern and such just take some brake cleaner and spray the cleaner through the nozzle from the injector side, it will come out in the spray pattern of the injector. mike has a video somewhere about that.Hooking up a 20,000lbs trailer will put a good load on the motor and literally do the cleaning work for you, as cylinder temps will remain high enough to burn off the tar and coke that will be on the injectors/pistons/valves.

the best way to do it is to follow my injector install video, then grab mikes how to clean an injector article.You need a inchlbs wrench with a crow's foot attached to it. But if your mechanical its as simple as going a little past snug. its only 28 ftlbs on those crossover lines.Cleaning your injectors is not hard at all, and is very easy, do them one at a time. I have done it as well.Conversely, strap 20,000lbs behind your truck and run around with it for a few hours and you achieve the same thing.

Having a that for an issue could be ecm related, but my truck does the same thing, only when its really cold out sometimes, but then again my timing piston is finished. Does he have an EGT gauge to measure the temps when it happens? Maybe he should take it to Cummins and see if their Insite program can find something that the smarty won't

having towed with a stock auto and a built auto, a stock auto i would tow in OD, for you 6K is nothing and OD won't be a problem, but for you the key is to keep the rpm's above 1,600, because you will loose your line pressure below that.Another issue is modifications, regardless of how new your stock auto is you will burn up the OD pack with anything over 40-60hp stock, because there is not enough line pressure to put the pressure to the clutch pack.A built auto(like my DTT), i just got back from hauling a 14,000lbs 5th wheel camper to Virginia and its a night and day difference. But a built auto will handle the weight in OD while my stock trans wouldn't, she would slip eventuallyu from 1,400(when it goes in), all the way to 1,800rpm's, so eventually you should keep the rpm's up via locking the O/D off. Another thing to consider is your stock auto has a single disk, which shouldn't be lugged around in low rpm operation(below 1,600rpm). The single disk that dodge gives you doesn't have a billeted front cover, so expect wear onto it.My advice for longevity and being that its so new is to buy a good triple disk(or a good billet single if your hauling under 10,000lbs, and have no modifications), and a good hauling valve body from Goerend DTT etic.If you do that you new stock trans will most likely outlive the truck.

IMO sounds like the VP-44 might be failing. My Vp-44's timing is shot so sometimes the truck runs good, sometimes its dogging depending on the position of the timing cam.Alothout the only thing i can also think of is that the 2000 had the HX-35 turbo not the HY-35, and this different emissions setup's, i think both the Cam's and the turbo's were different between the 1999-2001 trucks.

Has anyone with an automatic trans had their transmission Heat exchanger (located on the passenger side of the block) fail?If so is this a prone part to fail?The reason im asking is that at 10 years, and 8 year old engine coolant(before i changed it), im wondering if it will stand the test of time, or if i should go about replacing it, and avoiding trashing my fully built transmission.

i do believe (i could be wrong), but the 12v trucks had adjustable fuel pressure, meaning it rose as engine rpm's rose up. i think somewhere i read its 40psi at WOT? if you got the adjustable psi airdog i see no problem..(provided that the fueo psi is static like on the VP trucks. but being that there is a fuel pump lobe on the 12v cams i feel that odds are the fuel psi will rise up with rpm.

Unless the quad gets its readings separately Via a probe i think the instrument cluster's temp sender is in a bad spot. 1/2 inch lines are over kill, even if the fuel is slightly thicker, its not best to run 100% WVVO, a good 50:50 blend will do wodners, although i would say anything over B5 will make the VP-44 happy. As for the trans, start putting away for a built trans, its well worth the money when done right.

IMO, You have covered your areas quite well but here are a few suggestions. 1. No need for a boost pressure gauge unless your in performance mode, basically boost and engine exhaust temps are somewhat related, so use that 3rd spot for a trans temp gauge. The trans warning light comes on a 275 on the instrument cluster, by then its to late, plus its better knowing what your trans temp is. 2. Any full sized fuel pump like a FASS 95(and up), and Air Dog 90 and up will have all the plumbing and wiring necessary to hook the pumps up. I would bypass the stock filtration unit, and instead install a 3rd inline filter, preferably a Baldwin 1212, with a fuel heater in it (if you live in cold temps), but if not just a 3rd inline fill will do. While there are two filters on the full sized pumps, i always say there cannot be enough filtration. The fass system is a plug and play with push loc fittings. 3. As for draw straws, i would recommend a 1/2 inch draw straw and 1/2 (USCG) approved fuel line, that is braided), this will help on the (-) or suction side from the draw straw to the draw straw. 4.And unless your aims are at 500HP or more a 150gph pump is useless, and will only cause trouble. 5.And you might consider a shift kit to put into your transmission to extend what ever life is left, you didn't mention weather it was built up or bone stock.

This :iagree: I have never had to mess with the rear end, just changed the fluid at 50,000 miles, and the metal shavings, (the silt) has not returned, so im saying he should flush the fluid out as best as possible then refill, and maybe drain and refill again down the road, in a few thousand just to make sure.

so when is dodge giving him that special 7 digit instrument cluster? I read somewhere where they give those guys the 7 digit clusters if they make it.

IMO, being a 1999, you could safely push 60HP injectors and grab an extra 15-20hp over the 275's. IMO for general towing and such 60-75HP injectors are about the most you want, on a stock turbo. (Towing max weight with 99, i didn't get t hot was around 1,000F when accelerating with 60's, but trailer weighed more then 20,000lbs. Also plan on doing some upgrading on that auto before she cries, my auto was slipping with just 60HP injectors:smart: And last, when it comes time, you can go to my article for the injector install, it is a video form of the whole install process from Mike's writeup.