pepsi71ocean

Well i have found that the resistance in (omega sign one i think ohm) running 200 i can see the resistance step up on the center ground.when the heater controls go on it steps up from .3 to 20.3, 45.2, 60.5, 75.9, now at the blower motor relay thing by the fan motor i see it climb as high as 118 Ohm. Im assuming this is my short, but the fact it steps up makes me think it does this because mike said it grounds out what it wants?I also cleaned all the grounds inside the dash today, they were fairly clean but i polished them anyways. I might try and chase the outside ground tomorrow as well.

well got another update. the obd2 port is fine minus the white wire with the black line in it, the SCI or SFI bus. it runs 4.9v and when the heater turns on drop to .17:cry: also the center ground has issue when checking in reference to the obd2 port. OHM resistance goes from .3 to 1.2 when hvac is turned on. started working on the truck again today and guess what, it rained:banghead: the good news is that we have found our short, bad news is that until i can find where the short it in the dash this truck is still grounded. At this point, the whole dash is taken apart, i have a video showing the issue but my phone refuses to upload it to YouTube. since shooting the video the truck is now in parts, with wiring harnesses taken apart and stripped off the truck like a bunch of vultures at a junk yard. If i should get youtube to accept my video i'll post it here. --- Update to the previous post... Finally got the video to post. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lI3OdrGcTeQhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lI3OdrGcTeQ

with my setup i haul things beyond issue, and the smarty i found does well for towing, but expect to trash your trans if you do if its stock.

Its understandable, the 2nd gen flexplates are way stronger then the first gen's, but you speaking of wanting to run an exhaust brake implies that you will use the tran to engine brake, and that means (maybe a lock up switch). My only concern is that i would hate to see you trash a expensive trans over things like this. When i spoke to DTT i told them exactly what this truck does for a living and told them to build the trans around it, and i asked them to explain things as we went. Among them was that a broken flexplate or input shaft can run you the serious risk of trashing your trans the pump and front drum as well. this is all my concern is, when we swapped the transmissions in my truck the stock flexplate was out of round, and when you looked at it you could see how the center was startign to twist (like some of the photos in the threads i linked below), and im glad that i got the billet flexplate as im sure it wouldn't have lasted much longer had i left it on my truck. But then again i towed everything from 5,000lbs to 20,000lbs and some stuff as high as 32-35,000lbs over time so who knows all i know is that a stock dodge auto did the work. Im just saying i feel it was a big mistake that you swung a billet triple disk and left a stock flexplate and input shaft in there. Did the builder state what your new speed was, was it 200-300 lower or more like 400? I went with 400 lower and she really locks up and kicks this truck, my speedo gauge runs like the tachometer. (In response to the bold sentence), apparently they did that when they built our 47re's:lol: Some threads i dug up on the CF To the request on flexplates. (just 2nd gen 24v trucks area) Here the discussion of billets are mentioned http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-performance-parts-discussion/239133-full-trans-vb-tc.html Picture of broken flexplate, and multiple ones, ones out of round etic. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/234910-affordable-flexplate.html another broken flexplate http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/17857-how-much-power-without-frying-auto-trans.html Another thread here http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/26599-flex-plate.html picture showing the thickness of the stock flexplate http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-performance-parts-discussion/216168-were-cheap-out-auto-tranny.html Discussion about stock input shafts braking using aftermarket converters http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/232721-47re-billet-shafts.html more discussion http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/233322-47re-questions.html no picts but skant discussion http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/357743-errrrr-help-broken-something-thats-sure.html stock truck trashes stock flexplate http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/455102-had-truck-4-days-broken-flexplate.html now i know that there are odds but the general consensus is that if you run a triple disk you should have billet input and a billet flexplate. but im not arguing over the need to have one, but i just felt that my stock flexplate was going out of round when i dropped my stock trans i feel that it is something of real concern. especially since the OP put a triple disk back in with stock shafts and stuff. these triple disks are very harsh shifters, regardless of how loose or tight they might be. Now this thread here is a doosy but well worth reading the first 6 or 8 pages i feel. the rest is chatter about how the trans performed etic. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-performance-parts-discussion/239260-blew-my-transmission-today.html

I spent not much more and got a fully built DTT trans:cookoo: (with billet input and flexplate. There is alot of difference between the two, and im not sure what your guy would say, but both DTT and Goerend recommended billet flexplates to me mainly because they stock ones can barely hold the stock power level, let alone the harsh shifting of trans. (If your adding a pac brake down the road i would also suggest a flexplate because your fighting gravity with that thing. As for towing/downshifting this is what i follow. and DTT told me that with my trans i should be fine to haul what i need in 4th. Basically i have always hauled in O/D to get what i need where i need it, IF your truck cannot make its mind up as to what gear to select (either 4th or 3rd), or keeps shifting then slow down and go to 3rd gear. This is what i have always done, its better to drop into 3rd which is 1:1) and then let the truck work from there, then have it struggle to hold. Basically you start by hitting the O/D off button, then that kicks it into 3rd gear, once you climb down to about 1,300rpms(+/- 40mph) you can then downshift to the "2", or to the "1" selector as i have found that my truck will not downshift into first until the PCM reads 25mph. --- Update to the previous post... the 2500's have a built in trans cooler with the radiator (I believe, says haynes manual i have) Im not saying your trans is worth less, for 4,500 you better have one that can pull a mountain, i just feel that you should have a flexplate at the least, because everyone i have talked to seems to be in agreement about running flexplates and triple disk TC's. You can stay in OD when not in flat ground, just understand that without the added power your engine will be bogged down more easily, and i should also add put more load on the engine. as long as your not constantly shifting from 3-4-3-4-3-4 your good. If so then kick it out of OD and slow down and then kepe going.

Actually the dodge manual says that tow haul mode is O/D off, it prevents the trans from going into OD which according to my book is only suggested for light towing. But you are correct there is no official tow haul mode that changes the shift points because the shift points are controlled by the TV cable, so regardless of the O/D on and off switch putting a heavy load will drag every gear farther back except the OD which is controlled electronically regardless of TV settings.

i have spoke to several builders DTT and Goerend and they both stated that billet flexplates are more or less required(term used is heavily suggested) due to the stresses put into the flexplate by the weight and the torque put through it. The flexplate holds the weight of the triple disk torque converter, the weight of the TC is so much you run the risk of destroying the pump in the trans if the TC were to rest on the input shaft. the stock flexplate is more or less 1/8" steel, and when we put the trans up it was already warped, and this was a OEM trans coming out. (but then again this truck was a towing rig, so the flexplate saw use.

you have a drain that shouldn't be happening. i started my truck up after 4 months of sitting idle and she fired right up no issues, help 12.4v the whole time.i agree with mikes assessment, you should get a volt meter and start probing it will be much cheaper then trying to find something else.ALSO did you load test your alternator to see if it is working correctly.

im running 5/8's line and noticed good drop in FP under WOT until i replaced the fuel line from tank to LP with some steel reenforced fuel line from west marine.this stuff is so stable that from idle to WOT i see maybe 2 psi drop, and i say maybe with 60HP injectors and smarty, hauling ___ behind a fully built trans.my advice is to either swap to 1/2 in line from tank to your lift pump and then 5/8's to your VP-44. this way the fass has 1/2's worth if fuel volume to help combat the two lines returning fuel back to the tank, 1 via the return the other through the vp-44.

The Dana 80's axle rating is 11,000lbs. Dodge subtracts 3,500lbs out of the mix to get 7,500lbs. With load series E tires i can haul a 5th wheel trailer with a maximum pin weight of 7,500lbs. Most 5th wheel trailers should maintain 20% of their trailers weight on the pin. but dodge makes the assumption of 25% or 1:4 ratio. For example; I took a ~13,800lbs 5th wheel camper down to Florida, i rolled across the CAT scale at ~ 6,400lbs on the rear wheels, which is withing the weight limit of the rear axle. the pin weight was only 2,800lbs which is ~20%. Same trailer came back up from Key West about 5 months later, rolled across CAT scale trailer this time was up to almost 21,000lbs, and yet when i subtracted the tare weight of the truck i got 4,200lbs for a pin weight (total was about i think 7,700 now) With E tires i had a Goose neck trailer with a Formula 400 series on it, total load was 42,200 across scale. trailer + boat weight about 35,000lbs total. (tare of 7,200 for truck), yet my pin weight on the scale went to about 10,500lbs (or if you subtract 3,500 for the weight of the truck that leaves you at 7,000lbs which was roughly 20%. Now i was still legal but barely, talk withing 500lbs of legal. All of my loads have been in the average of 18-23% of the total weight. most trailers are withing that range, any more then 25% and you have a trailer that is to front heavy, any less then 15-18% they are to but heavy. Unlike ball and hitch trailers which are between 10-15%, goose neck and 5th wheels should be between 15-25%. Dodge uses 25% in their "Safety Margin", thus why the total weight is lower. This is how i got my numbers

If said trans is as built as it sounds like in the last few paragraphs you should have no problem towing in OD they are not close to the same, many people do not realize that the 2500 diesel versions are way different from the 2500 gas versions, i would think this is where his buddy got lost thinking they are the same. The 2500 dodge trucks with manuals came with Dana 80's, the autos had Dana 70's, but the 3500 models all had Dana 80's regardless of transmission type or rear count.

i agree a 5 disk is over kill, and are only made my ATS (POS imo)..... The mfg's ratings go out the window when you start modding the truck, the DOT only cares about axle and tire ratings and don't care much about what dodge says your truck will haul. did you get a billet flex plate installed as well? and im assuming a non billet input? How does it shift, can you feel it when going from neutral to say drive or neutral to reverse?

you guys all missed the big part.what quality is his rebuild? is it even a billet torque converter?, billet single? or billet triple?.billet input? valve body? etic.These questions are more important then just what temps are safe to run.Granted the max temp is 1,250F anything over that is asking for trouble.Hauling with a true built trans is way different then what its life to haul with a stock auto.

it seems all to similar, low lift pump pressure burns the timing piston up, fails to advance timing = unburnt fuel. or weak timing cam causes the vp to loose timing under load. i figured it was a fuel pump issue when i looked and didn't see anywhere a sign of aftermarket LP. TO the OP, understand that these VP-44's will have error codes but will not show a check engine light.

what is your fuel pressure, what was your fuel pressure when you got it, was it a stock LP when you bought the truck? Replace LP? (i see you don't have one listed in sign)

between smarty and 60HP injectors my turbo lights down around 1,200rpms when the truck kicks into 4th gear. and she holds and pulls string all the way to about 2400 when it seems to loose all HP.

simple, put it in reverse and get on it, lol:lmao:

before you go about getting all worked up first smell your smoke.is it fuel or a sweet smell.if it is a fuel smell then its a timing issue, if it is a sweet smell like engine coolant then you you have a leak.but did you check to see if your VP-44 is working correctly? the upper end is working, valve set?

had my 99 24v run backwards when i was trying to get it to start. i was cranking and cranking bumping the starter in the work parking lot, and then bam she started up backwards blew white smoke out of the engine hood, then black smoke and then died.

Have a late night update, got the obd port in and its not working, im hoping its as simple as a blown fuse, and i mean HOPING, as my brother confirmed that he cut 4 wires at a time:banghead::banghead::banghead:if not this could be the end for hauling with this truck as it will be stuck on fuel economy mode forever:pray:

correction your 235, not 230. i still have a 215 pump and i can't wait to replace mine with a 235 then i'll be hovering around 355Hp, and 35psi of boost and i will have the max on my set up. Im glad to see someone else who agrees with me that the smarty does down low dirty.

well today i pulled the dashboard apart more.pulled the seats out and vacuumed the cab out.With the help of Andrew i got my obd2 port replaced with a new one, and tomorrow ill work on putting everything back together and pulling some codes up.

well got the trans in the truck, and got the truck driving, it drives nice and stout.i run out of HP now at about 80mph, i need to do some tweeking, i need to replace the obd 2 port, and fix the check engine light.got a few issues like the no can bus issue. but truck drives like a dream

if im running 55 i'll usually be in 3rd and drop down to 50-54 ish, anything over 58 i find the truck has no problems. then again im running about 1,600 rpm's at 55, and almost 1,800 at about 60. in 3rd i run about 1,800-2,100 rpm's. i find it pulls very hard around here and you can still make headway, i tend not to run in this gear unless i need to or reasons require it. i suspect once my dtt trans wears in the rpm's will change when i start hauling with it. i already like the way it drives.

typically 58-60 in 4th gear. or 50-54 in 3rd. (i don't have a boost gauge but i try to keep my pyro's around 800-900. now going up hills or accelerating are different, but in general that is where i stay. I tend to leave the smarty on level 3-5 depending on what im hauling it helps alot against the downshifts. This:smart: