LorenS

This is the style IBMobile identified. Much less expensive than a filter base and spin-on filter. I ran that style before switching. Wanted more "trash capacity" since I sometimes filled up at questionable stations due to work travels.

I pretty much did the same thing. I'll try to track down the post I made on here. Was early October. The prefilter screen is in my signature. Donaldson something. 140 micron screen. https://mopar1973man.com/topic/18093-donaldson-upstream-spin-on-screen/

Me, neither. Just wondered if I was a member.

But even if all cables are the same today, they won't be after awhile. That's kind of the whole point of this. I'd prefer my driver's batter be undercharged than my passenger side battery getting the life boiled out of it because the alternator is pumping the juice to it trying to overcome an (inevitable) bad connection. We don't all live in the dry climate of Idaho where battery connections last millennia. I do religiously check my cables based on your teachings so am not too worried about it, but for others, moving the sensor may make the most sense.

I guess I'm not a member. I have option to edit, that's about it. Edit, share, and report.

I think we all agree that charging the battery closest to the alternator is preferred, all else being equal. So for those that care, would it make more sense to extend (relocate) the temp sensor to the passenger battery, versus running the charge wire across the engine bay - which W-T said was a stupid design. Seems like a hole saw followed by attention with a small hand held router (for the small recess so sensor sits flush) would do the trick.

That's my whole point, only with fuel.

You may be able to tune around not having a thermostat, too, but isn't it better to just run one?

I know we want to keep the PSG cool, but to a certain degree cold fuel doesn't burn as efficiently. To heat 30 gallons (over 210 pounds) of diesel from 0 degrees to 50 or 70 degree would take a while. And in the mean time that cold fuel isn't burning as good as it could. For reasons you described very well, I wouldn't run the diesel over 140F on a regular basis - this is something I hope to address in the spring - but just like IAT temp, fuel temp has effects on combustion. Seems like 70-80 to the pump (and higher leaving to the injector as it picks up heat) would be a reasonable starting point. I do agree it may be more trouble than it's worth, it's more of a theoretical.

I'm sure they have their reason for putting anti on the side flapping in the breeze and I'd love to know what it is!

Nope. I "run out" with 7 gallons in the tank after I drive down an off ramp.

As much as we all like to tinker, maybe the next big thing is putting in a 3-way valve so we get benefits of warm fuel in the winter and cooler fuel in the summer. Or, install a radiator-style thermostat so we don't even have to think about it! Mine goes to the basket and I went over 150 this summer. Just a DRP, so no fancy return. Has anyone run separate returns from the VP44 and head? One to basket, one elsewhere?

I consider Un-Americans and "not an American" to not be synonymous. Many Uns are, in fact, Americans.

Looks like something a concrete float guy would use in the off months!

Soviets and other Un-Americans.

Blasphemy!

Sure seems to me that it WOULD have worked. Weak starting batteries, to me, is a hell of a lot preferable to catching my alternator on fire.

I guess I'm having a hard time understanding how if the temp sensor was on the bad battery it wouldn't have helped in JAG1's case. Would not the huge short generate lots of heat? Wouldn't the increase in temp throw cause the PCM to reduce charging? Of course it's 50/50 odds that you have the sensor on the correct battery. I have forgotten most of the story behind that alternator failure, however.

I must say these trucks do look good on 35s, especially the long beds. That said, I'm rolling on 30.5" tires. 41 years old, two kids under five. My cool days, if I ever had any, are behind me!

I figured that would still be a Quadrajet vehicle.

I guess that's the big, bold, italicized, capital letters, underlined "IF".

Neither the lift nor the injection pump care how high the tank is. If you return to the top, the dip tube is a good idea as it allows the fuel going down the dip tube to help pull return fuel up to the tank top (like a siphon). For the same reason, you can come out the top of the tank with supply fuel and the pump knows no difference (once the 'siphon' has started). What I don't know, is if the return at the back of the head cares that the tank is above head. I would think not, until the day there's a leak somewhere and the whole tank is drained empty, either onto the ground or into your head followed by the oil pan, and it streams out the breather. Of course that'd either be a big leak, or a little leak and a lot of time.

My medium-term plan (late summer at earliest, I imagine) is a torque converter and valve body. I've done a lot of the other 'pan off' upgrades that Dynamic mentioned above, except the band strut. Moses Ludel has a nice write up in the Turbo Diesel Register on what can and should be upgraded. I followed that advice almost to the letter. I didn't do the Park pawl/detent ball fix. The Manual Valve that allows flow to the converter while in Park seemed like an excellent idea - the desire for that upgrade initiated the project. https://www.4wdmechanix.com/Survival-Upgrades-for-Jeep-and-Dodge-Ram-Automatic-Transmissions?r=1 $63 Rostra 501171 Pressure Transducer - HD $38 ATSG Transmission Manual $32 Sonnax PR Valve 22771A-02K $20 Sonnax Manual Valve 22771-09 $33 Sonnax Billet Accumulator Piston 22841-04K $24 Intermediate Servo Cover Plate $43 Borg Warner Metal Governor Pressure Solenoid 22958 Altogether I think I spent less than $300 on parts thorough Amazon; Rock Auto likely cheaper even after shipping.

This thread of yours, coupled with a set of new 125 HP injectors and a new turbo (hopefully) on the way led me to researching that exact thing last night. I saw a lot of guys with big numbers who towed WAY heavier than me with DPC or Goerend single disc converters and claiming to have no problem - yet. Watching videos of explanations of the internals, I certainly see how that middle clutch disk could reduce shock loading. It has the springs just like a manual transmission clutch disk. So, I still have no confidence in an answer to your question for my application! 🤔

Anzo USA 111067 I used those to install my projectors. Very happy with the lense after over 25k miles.