RJC2

I have a friend with a 5525 and he has the same issue with it. It was worrysome for him. Finally JD (West Central in Somerset) came out and replaced the fuel lines. It appears from what the mechanic said that Deere bought some cheezy cheap fuel line and they draw air badly into the injection pump. I would think this would be a real good place to start. Good fuel line is a whole lot less expensive than a service call. Regardless if it is the problem or not, the fuel lines should be replaced. The ones from the tank to the transfer pump.This fellows tractor was a 2004 or 2005 model so the problem has been around for a while. His would also blow white smoke at times.

Thanks Dave, I agree with you that I would rather see what the pressure is out near the VP44, where it matters. For whatever reason he didn't like that set up at all. I told him I kept the stock housing for the fuel heater, he said that it was pretty much worthless and I would have been better off without it.I am not sure I follow you about the bucket test. The pump was drawing fuel from a fuel can as opposed to the tank. Same fuel either way, just feeding from a different location. This let me know if the draw straw has a problem. It seemed to be fine. The draw straw in my truck is cut at an angle, inside the cup. As per your instructions I drilled two 9/16" holes about 2" up from the bottom of the cup. Eric at Vulcan said that the number of holes really didn't matter(he recommended one 1/2" hole). All I know is that mine starts drawing air on steep grades at just under 1/4 tank. In my untrained and ingorant opinion, these trucks need a sump, and a good sized one. The cup us sucked dry in seconds. When I watched how it sucked that diesel can dry in 25 seconds I realized that the cup isn't much help in there. I am going to try the fuel pressure test gauge in the morning. This thing has run me broke lately. But better days are coming...

I talked to my friend who is a Dodge Mechanic about your lines. He said that there are lines available with a black coating on them. He said they won't rust. I'm sorry I didn't think to ask where to get them.

You know I took mine off twice too. I'll get stinky in the morning. And see what is wrong. --- Update to the previous post... Well today the saga continues. I called Air Dog to see what they suggested before starting. The tech basically said he didn't think it was bad fuel but possibly the draw straw, or the gauge. He told me to take the feed line from the tank off and put it in a bucket and see if things normalized. If it didn't he said to replace the filters. However, he did say that hooking the fuel pressure gauge in at the factory filter (as I have it) with a needle valve isn't a good idea. He told me to relocate the line for the fuel pressure gauge to the 1/8" port in the top of the Air Dog. He said this will give a more accurate reading of what the pump is putting out. SO, I straight lined the pump to a can of about 1.5 gallons of fuel and bumped the starter. 2 psi. of pressure. It just about emptied the can in the 25 seconds that the pump ran (pumping it back to the fuel tank) which indicates to me that the pump was pumping enough pressure to open the valve in the VP44, pumping it back to the tank. Next, I replaced all three filters. Hit the starter again, 2 psi. Another $50 wasted on filters. I then tried to call Air Dog back, but they must quit early on Friday, so no help there. The only thing I know to do now is to go to Advance Auto parts and get a Fuel Pressure Test Gauge and hook it up to the line that hooks to the islolator for the trucks fuel pressure gauge as I don't have a spot on the VP44 anymore to test it. Any thought are appreciated.

Yeah, I'd venture a guess that it is the fuel contaminated. At least I am all brushed up on how to do it. (taking the tank off) and siphoning 30 gallons of diesel... well lets just say the wife won't want to kiss me for a while. Burp! EEEW whats that smell, Diesel fuel honey.

Good idea Dave. I forgot about the screen. I will check it first. When you primed the filters did it start okay or did you have to bleed the injectors?Also, another question. When you take your Air Dog filters off does fuel just siphon out of the tank onto the ground from the Air Dog? It did for me and I had to put a clamp on the fuel line to stop the leaking fuel or it would have emptied a portion of the tank on me.The tank was full and the tank fuel level was higher than the pump. I kept waiting and waiting for that line to empty and finally it dawned on me that I had a siphon going.

Thanks for the quick response Dave. I just ran out and bumped the starter to see and it sounds like it normally does. It read 5psi when I shut it down an hour ago, now it has 3 psi. When the pump was running with a starter bump, engine off, I would hear what sounds like moments of air going through the line. A little swish, swish sound now and again. I took it as normal. I have the 17 psi spring in it. but have never seen that much pressure.Just before filling up I noticed it was sucking a little air when I would come down the mountain and hit the brakes. The fuel pressure dropped into the teens until the fuel sloshed back into the tank, nothing abnormal I thought. It would come right back up to 16.5. The fuel pressure did hit 17 for the first time just before I filled it up, only for a few seconds. I just thought that it was due to the fuel getting low.

Alright guys, I replaced my lift pump a couple of weeks ago with an Air Dog 100, installed the draw straw V, and big line kit. Everything was going well and I had 16.5 PSI at idle, 13.5 at wide open throttle, consistantly. This evening I was running just below a 1/4 tank and stopped and filled up. Started the truck and had 16.5 psi. I drove 24 miles home and watched the fuel pressure drop slowly to 5 psi by the time I got home. The truck is running fine, and I see no fuel leaks under the truck. My first thought is "bad fuel" and the filters are clogging. I have an extra set of filters for the Air Dog and the factory filter which I plumbed in with the Air Dog. My first inclination is to change the filters and see if the pressure comes back up, but I thought I would pick your brains and wait till morning before doing anything.As a side bar. While filling up at the service station (which isn't the one I normally use) the pump was running very slow, so I got in the truck while filling up (28 gallons). An employee was standing in front of the store smoking a cigarette and walked over to me and asked if the pump was running slow and I said yes it was. He pointed out that all of the gas pumps had plastic bags over the nozzles because "they sell so much fuel that they ran out and diesel was all that was left.I don't know how much diesel was left in their tanks but I have to wonder if I got the bottom of the barrel!Any thoughts or suggestions are much appreciated.

Do you mean 5/16" or 5/32"?

The manufacturers have them for both 2wd and 4wd. It appears that there is a little difference in the way they are made from looking at them. The steering weakness would be the same with either version. The 4wd has a bit more weight on the front end so that could have an effect.

Thanks just the same. You served us. Semper Fi.

I know this get said over and over, but, "Thank you for your service to this Great Country"

Well, I received all the parts today. I have learned a couple of things. First, There are three lines on a 47RE. Two are available through Rockauto and other part stores, and one line isn't available from anyone but Dodge. I bought the two lines from Rock auto (part #624352, & B61050) for less than $100) great quality nice parts. The third line, the one that goes from the heat exchanger to the cooler up front, costs $142 from Dodge. ouch! There are lines listed on Rockauto that appear to be this line, but they are not, I know I bought them and they are wrong and a very poor value. $30 each for 14" ($3 worth) of straight rubber transmission line and a $5 fitting. they give a very poor description at Rockauto (no picture) and the people there are not able to help identify what is what as well.So, if you are inclined to change your transmission lines and want to avoid this expense and frustration, this is what I have learned.Buy two from Rockauto. Part #s 624352 ($43.79), this is the one that goes from the front transmission port to the heat exchanger on the passenger side of the block. This line is really for a 1995 model year, and has the port in it for the temp. sending unit. If you don't have a transmission temp. gauge you still have to order this one as they don't make one without the port, this is the only front line available that I have found other than the dealership and they want $80-$90 for it. They (Rockauto, napa, & Advance) don't sell the line without the port, so if you don't need the port, plug it as you may decide to use it someday and will have it. Note: The line with the port has a check valve in it. There is already one inline at the heat exchanger so the one in this line needs to be removed so you won't have two. (Thanks Wild & Free for the advice on that)Second line from Rockauto is the one that runs from the rear transmission port to the short rubber line that comes off of the cooler near the oil pan. It is about 56" long and solid metal with a fitting on one end and quick connect on the other, part # B61050 ($14.93) a good buy! The biggest and cheapest.Third line is the one from Dodge, Part #52028633 ($141.35) this line goes from the heat exchanger to the short rubber lines that come off of the cooler up front near the oil pan. This one costs more than everything else combined.This comes to $200.07. You will have to figure shipping in on the lines from Rockauto.Now, If you want to replace the short lines that go from the cooler (in the grill) back to about the oil pan. These connect to the above mentioned lines, Don't do what I did and buy part #s A61097 and A61098 from Rockauto. They are about $30 each. You can just buy two connectors from Rockauto (part #800716) for $5 each, and buy 3' of transmission line (enough to do both), and two small clamps from Napa and have the EXACT same thing as they are going to send you for about $50 less.If you want to replace the fittings that go into the transmission (recommended) they are Rockauto part # 800717 and about $10 each. I recommend this as they have a rubber seal in them that tend to leak if not replaced.I am documenting this to help someone else that is going to do this. I did a search both here and on another site and really couldn't find a whole lot of help. This has been a bit of a pain to figure out. I hope this helps. Now, to get the last line from Dodge and install them...I may have a bit over $200 invested in this, but as Wild & Free wisely stated in an earlier post. It is cheaper than a $3000 transmission.

Thanks Wild & Free. Do I need to take the fitting apart that connects the rubber line to the metal part to get to it? I would just look but I can't take this line apart to see, as I have to send it back to Rockauto. I has a nasty, sharp dent in it, so bad that I don't trust it to install. I am sending it back. To Rockauto's credit, they gave me no grief about it. Just sending me a shipping tag for the return shipping and sending me a new one. Rockauto was a good recommendation, I am pleased with their prices and shipping was fast.I was reading on another site, a fellow recommeds taking the check balls out of the lines completely. Would that be adviseable to do?

Does the exhaust brake work with an automatic transmission?

I received the line today that has the port in it for the temperature probe (Rockauto part #624-352) orginally for a 1995 Ram 2500. I remember seeing a post somewhere about removing a checkball from the line, otherwise it would have two. Is it located in the rubber portion of the line, and what is the best way to get it out?

They use calcium choride alot up there in New Jersey where the truck came from. That stuff is nasty. Here in WV. we can't afford that there fancy new fangled potion. They are sparing with salt as well. Thank God.

You know, I always forget to do that, then ask myself why I didn't think of doing it. Thanks for reminding me.

I wonder what shipping costs on those to Mount Olympus? I do have a set [from Sears] that don't look that nice. Get the engraver out Milke, before they grow legs.

What I planned on doing (thanks Wild & Free for the advice) was just to cut the line off near the transmission with a pair of nippers so as not to accidentally get shavings inside. Then take a 6 point socket and turn out the connector from the transmission. I have ordered new connectors with all three lines. The total from Rock Auto was $143.70. It would have been cheaper if I hadn't bought the front line with the port in it for the trans. temp gauge. It cost about $25 more. I was talking with Geno's garage yesterday. A guy named Brandon (a nice guy by the way) told me that the trans. lines Rockauto sells [Dorman] are good quality lines. He said that Geno's used to carry them, but decided to get out of the line business. Dodge wanted about $100 more for the lines only and not the line with the port in it which costs more. I got four connectors which was about $30 and the lines for the price above.On Edit; sorry I posted before seeing Wild & Free's post [before this one] but will leave it incase someone wants to know what the prices were on the lines and fittings. I guess I should have included the part #s.

It's apple harvest time in Winchester Va. He may be busy.

Thanks John. As suggested earlier, Rockauto has the same line (but with a rubber section going up to the heat exchanger). The port is closer to the trans. on the one from Rockauto, which will probably give a little more accurate reading.

Wild & Free, Thanks, disregard the PM, I didn't see the post until after I sent it. Also, I think the one you said to order from Chrysler is available through RA as well. It is part # 624352 $43.79.I hope that is the right one. It is the only one where they actually have a picture and it looks to be right, unless you know differently.Thanks again. Bob

Rogan, I was wondering if taking the sway bar off was okay to do, and what the effects are on the drivability.

I had a set of Timbrens on a plow truck about 10 years ago. (F350) They worked great, but stiffened the ride alot. I took them off in the summer so my fillings would stay in. They added about 1"-1.5" when the plow was up. They were pricey but I got most of the money back when I sold them after Ford bought the truck back. (they couldn't fix what was wrong with it)