Fullboarcummins

Well I found the problem with the block today. The number 5 cylinder has a small notch out of the top of the cylinder wall. It is above the travel of the rings by .06 or so. Looks like it was there from the factory. Almost looks machined out. Maybe a screw up at the factory that slipped past? cant post pics from my phone.

8 grand seems high to me. How many hours of labor are they charging you?

I picked up a complete engine for $1000. Going to pull it apart and see about making one good engine with the parts I have. I would do it myself. But the engine is just to big and heavy to deal with. Im taking it to the engine shop I used to work at. Im off for the winter. So my old boss is letting me work off the labor.

All the cracks I have seen were pretty easy to see. The coolant stains the block pretty good. Doesnt matter either way. Im putting a mexican block back in. will magnaflux the 53 block. Then maybe get a few dollars for it.

Geno's garage has them for $41.95. The hardest part was getting the plug out. That thing was really stuck in there.

I think it was $60. Got it from snap-on. Just added it to my ever growing truck account. made turning the engine over to bring my converter bolts into position very easy. Then holds the engine from turning while you loosen the bolts.

Got the bad engine out of the truck today. I cant find this crack anywhere. The guy I bought the truck from says it has a chunk out of it. Somehow im over looking it. Or it isnt there. It was nice to verify the torque converter. I was just told its a tripple disc. With the engine out I can see its a sun coast converter. It was a good day.

I picked up the barring tool, vp44 gear puller, and the wrench and holder to remove the fan. The barring tool worked great. Made removal of the torque converter bolts a breeze. The fan tools worked good also. Money well spent so far.

I have used weather strip adhesive to tack gaskets on in the past. So that could be an option. Probably best to wait and see what ideas the other guys have though.

The gear puller was $35. I have slight problem with tools. I have more money in tools than I do into this truck by far.

Makes sense. I couldnt find much info on it. Maybe I can trade a tool I never use back to my snappy for one.

Ok. Im thinking the starter has to be removed to use this tool. Huge waste of time if you ask me. So $58 will be spent elsewhere.

I have line wrenches so im set there. I will have my vp puller friday. Geno's has the tools to pull the injectors and tubes. But I will try the bolt method before I waste money. Do you guys know the tool for turning the engine over that I mentioned? It looks like a big torqs bit. But I have no clue where it goes. At $58 I wont buy it until I know its needed. Thanks for the input guys.

What about tools for pulling the injectors? And snap-on has a tool for turning the engine over. Is that usefull?

I ordered a vp44 gear puller off the snap-on truck the other day. Wondering what other tools you guys think I should pick up. I have plenty of tools. Im asking more about specialty tools I will need for working on a cummins. Thanks.

Not sure if it would come with a warranty. But I trust them and have no doubts about the quality of their work. They are a full service shop. They also have an engine and chassis dyno.

The 4k includes machine work, new cummins pistons, rings, bearings, gaskets. Cleaning the block and all other parts. Rebuilding the head. Basicly I would have a new engine ready to run. Im not sure I will be able to afford the rebuild. I will probably clean things up and install new gaskets. I may have the head rebuilt. I used to work for the shop that would be doing the work. Im still very good friends with them. We are going to the performance racing industry show in december. Its a very long drive to florida. Maybe I can work a deal. Lol

It helps with airflow. Gives a nice smooth transition rather than the air having to hit ledges. I think it would be worth a little bit of work.

That header looks awesome! I have a couple stock manifolds. I will give gasket matching a try for now. Mucher cheaper. I need to start a thread on the best intake manifold now. Wilsons manifold looks sick!

I just picked the truck up. Havent put it in my name yet. No postcard for me. From what I have read the block I just got is a mexican block. So I should be good to go. Looks to be in decent shape for having 200k on it( on the outside anyway ). Going to pull the head and oil pan to take a closer look.

So I picked up the engine for my truck today. Got it for $1000. It doesnt say 53 anywhere on it. I assume thats a good thing? Is there a certain number I should be looking for? My 53 block has a rather large 53 on the driver side lower front of the block. This new block just has a series of numbers/letters. I will try to google them? It must have had a manual trans behind it. But it looks like I can easily swap everything from my block to this one. Let the fun begin.

So picked up the engine for my truck today. Im not really sure what I ended up with. I cant find a 53 anywhere so I hope that is a good sign. The block in my truck has a big 53 on the drivers side lower front of the block. This block has a series of numbers. The tag says it was built 3/3/98 and is rated at 235hp. My tag says 215hp. This engine must have had a manual behind it? My plan is to swap most of the parts from my engine to this engine so I hope I dont have any problems. --- Update to the previous post... Oops. I put this in the wrong section. This is meant for the 24valve section. Sorry.

Maybe I should just get my stock manifold coated? I talked to a guy at pri that said they only charge $75 for a set of headers. He also said it doesnt matter if it is new or used.

Why doesnt anybody offer a high temp ceramic coating? Thats all anybody wants when it comes to headers. It would look good. And I would think it would keep more heat in the manifold.

I will rig some hoses up and flush it into a bucket. I just wasnt sure how fast the fuel would be pumping out. Im not a fan of messes.