Irie808

Did a FP gauge recently and I used "Fuse taps" for the dimmer and the 12v ignition. Could not be easier. I used the fuses in the drivers side door on the dash. Use multi-meter to find the fuses you need,12v ignition and lights. I used the cigarette lighter for 12v and illumination for the lights. (my gauge specifically said NOT to connect to the actual dimmer switch. Connect to a source that turns on when lights are turned on and my gauge dims 30% is how mine works) Glowshifts instruction videos are informative for this process.. https://www.glowshiftdirect.com/mini-expandable-circuit-4-amp-fuse/ There is a video on this page

From Georend website FAQ: 5. The sides of our pan are NOT ribbed for strength. If you hit a rock or something else we want the transmission pan to break away. Pans that are excessively beefed up on the side may not break and you may break your transmission case instead. It is much easier and cheaper to replace the transmission pan than the transmission case. After looking at kits and kits and trying to see what parts can be changed rather easily or are most important, it would seem the governor pressure solenoid is the main component to improve feel of transmission. In some kits you may get a speed sensor, 8pin dual pack shift sensor, governor pressure sensor, accumulator spring. My reading leads me to believe most other parts might throw a code or have a failure moment the would be noticeable, whereas the pressure solenoid is a part that can function but might not be strong enough to do its job well. What are opinions on the Borg Warner governor pressure solenoid VS that GM retrofit part? What is a good reusable trans pan gasket?

This kit has many parts to it. I wonder if I can install them all easily... I wonder if it ain't broken don't fix it... I wonder if it could run much better with a couple new do-hickies installed... Assuming my transmission is still happy at 193k miles. (Still curious about the low throttle 1-2 stumble, after a drive yesterday, WIP) What are opinions on what to change/upgrade at my next service? Any schooling and elaboration on how these effect my transmission is most welcome. Also as i browse, I see mentioning of some things being easier vs harder to get to in there. $103 for georend pan to ship to Hawaii...$334 total Is it worth it? (cant find much else for much cheaper at that quality) I can get a stock one with a drain plug for $33 shipped...tempting (assuming trans pans main benefit is cooling maybe there's a better $ way to cool it.? Maybe get a Temp. bung welded on it..) I mean at this point I dont tow, just a DD. I ramble... Irie

Glad the gauge i just bought didn't implode but yea i had same readings 4psi idle and 0 at little throttle. I could take a picture of the rust enveloped lift pump but i am kinda embarrassed. Jk I should to show wtf is in tanks...tomorrow

the bands is something i have read a lot on and still have some confusion... I did adjust 10k ago or so and felt like i started this low throttle low gear shift issue, which the TV cable seemed to help. It's not crazy firm shifts, it feels good to me Forgot to mention it shifts 1-2 WOT @ 2800+ rpm 2-3 seemed to hit 3k I almost felt like it DID down shift when coming to a stop today. (more so than ever before) I'll research the solenoid and transducer... I need to know what the difference in loose bands vs. tight band symptoms???

Good info here as I have been tweaking my 47re. Might have to splurge for a pan too, looks nice. I assume the pan has a bolt for the temp sensor hole if you dont have the sensor yet. I think i had over tightened my bolts on last service..ever so slight weep, keeps the rust off. JAG1 may I ask what service you plan to perform on your trans other than fluid, filter and pan?

I just got to say it feels better!! long drive and no symptoms. Like you said i had a couple firm shifts but its a keeper adjustment for now. Very happy with the results Thank you

There is TV cable on bottom and throttle cable on top in engine side. The small screw is a stop on the throttle plate it seems, my throttle has small slack i was thinking of taking it out there...? will that affect apps or something When you ask if the truck is down shifting, im not sure..the thought has crossed my mind in the past. I thought thats just how it is, didnt expect it to down shift as im braking and provide any sort of assistance to braking. It does start out in a lower gear after slowing. If slowing from 50 to 40 mph and foot still on the throttle lightly it does down shift. In FSM it just shows the TV cable adjustment at the engine with the clip iirc. It seems like im pulling on the spring and it seems like it wants to pull out instead of slide...just went out and played with the connection on the trany side of things. Blocked the pedal WOT, I made sure the lever on the tranny with the return spring is fully open at WOT, ever so slightly taped the bracket holding TV cable towards the rear of truck. I assume this is the most i can get out of it out here, as long as that lever on the tranny fully opens at WOT You mention some adjustments on inside of trany... I plan on going in there again sometime soon. I did once as mentioned above and adjusted bands, chance i got it off slightly or it reacted strange to the adjustment. Anyway is there some advice as to some parts to change while im in there or further adjustments i can plan for while im in there? small rebuild kits? adding a drain plug to existing pan i've read is an option im interested in (plan on siphoning out fluid this next time) Guess getting a guage as mentioned would be helpfull to diagnose some trany symptoms going for a test drive

After making the TV cable a little tighter the power feels better and better shifts. Still need to do some fine tuning. I think my cable is pinched in the adjustment area as per the FSM. The cable will not slide freely through the clip when it is undone, rather the circular plastic that has a spring inside (just behind the clip) wants to move with the cable as i pull it not allowing for much adjustment. Upon my testing, on steep grade with minimal throttle at 10 mph it seems as if the trany is trying to shift or is shifting. This seems like the problem i have been having but it does seem much better. I am able to get shifts at the 2800 rpm range WOT. Its the extremely slow acceleration that gives the funny feeling. Almost like when it tries shifting at 10mph it doesn't go into a higher gear really. After my first adjustment of TV cable upon normal acceleration from stops i have less shifting now, it seems to pick a gear and stay in it. Just wanted to say thank you for all the support here. This is my first forum, it is nice to chat with others on the same page.

I've had the truck since 111k miles and at 194k now when i changed that lift pump. Who knows when that in tank pump was installed!? I'm guessing long ago, it shows the pump lasted long time even though it was worthless when removed. I'll guess 15 years in service. Why is it not good if it provides the PSI and flow to pump? Happy to report back on my PSI going forward

Well i think we are on to something here for me. I adjusted the TV cable (pulled on it as i tried to clip it in with that clip...) looks like a cylinder that has a spring inside as i pull from the back side with the clip released) Not sure if I am doing it right. Is there a possibility that the cable gets to old and needs replace? Bottom line is i think i feel a difference in the shifting after trying to adjust. If I check the FSM for where i undo the clip it looks like i might be able to slide the cable, but for me it seems i can only pull that spring out to make my TV cable tighter, just doesn't feel right when i pull on it that hard to try to clip it it in as per FSM. That clip i suspect holds the cable, i have to pull back towards the rear of the truck to get it to be tight, maybe the cable is caught where it has been in the past or maybe im pulling on it as i shouldn't If i undo the clip behind the bracket of the TV cable is there a way to adjust the TV cable easily or do i need to PULL on it HARD! Feels like im doing it wrong, at some point i saw the spring right there at the clip for TV cable. Thanks for the knowledge! So stoke to meet you all!!

star bolt im talking is the tiny one that is in engine side right at the throttle cable, maybe one would thing an idle adjustment screw. I will mess with the TV cable and check the lever under the truck. I pull on the cable and it has very little resistance for a section then gets tight, hard to pull by hand, it will move further past that point easily when connected. Do you think that very firm point in cable is the point i need to adjust to? if so my TV cable is loose. Ill go check it out in a few

Well i did some digging and downloaded the FSM for my year truck to read about the TV cable adjusting. When you say slightly tighten the TV cable, in a sense i will be making the cable just shy of reaching the connection, so the cable will ever so slightly be engaging? I do have a question regarding the throttle cable...it seems to have a slight slack to it, is it ok to remove some of that by turning the star bolt for the plate adjustment there. I'm gathering i should not touch that star bolt adjustment. If i make the TV cable tight by a few mm is it ok for testing feeling? same for lose, just to see the feeling when driving? Or are these bad ideas for breaking something?

MyOle I actually got a 3/8 kit from filter to pump mainly to mount the fuel pressure unit after the filter, didnt seem that much bigger really. No issues that i know of running 24psi, seems like its settling in at 22-23psi range now. Matthew I actually got it on amazon for about $154, found it initially on rockauto but i think they dont usps any more. https://www.amazon.com/Spectra-Premium-SP7036M-Fuel-Assembly/dp/B007RW1K1W Nothing special but it beat the old POS i had in there for sure! Thinking you would need to have supply and return lines plus the electrical connections there for the pump, i think i read there is a modle number that was used for a conversion to in-tank pump, not sure whats involved as i already had one Matt, how do you do that linking our names when you replied to us? liking it I'm thinking getting inside your tank and seeing what it looks like would be a good idea for you, probably needs a good wipe inside

I think that's what i got, M6x1.0 sounds right. Thanks for the confirmation on that. Thanks for all responses for that matter. You guys rock!

I think I have the right hole, guess its the timing case. Just going to use the bolt i have when i got a good day and all supplies I need to get a better multi meter for the AC check, though i do know someone that has one that i've used before. I think it was in range at the time few years back. I will get it done soon. Interesting to note the AC noise tends to affect the upper range OD gears. So what band is the lower gears? The one inside the pan or outside the pan? (hoping the outside one) All in all the trany issue is not that bad, but when your trany makes funny kine like this you really want to resolve it before too long I'd think. Sure seems like a hunting issue the way it shifts or slips or whatever. really happens only when slowly accelerating at the shift point. Perhaps worse when hot?? not positive on that last bit.

New to the community today! Excited to meet you all, been lurking for a while. This may end up being a bit long winded, I figure the more info the better for opinions. Truck Is a 1999 24V 2500 ex cab automatic190,000+ miles (owned since 111,000) I had transmission flushed and filter changed early on. Some point a couple years in i started to get some transmission "hunting?" on hills in higher gear range with low throttle 45mph-ish (thinking in and out of overdrive?) Anyway, I had resolved this issue it seamed by moving the large ground wire away from the alternator to the top the radiator.. This worked for me for a few years. This makes me believe I must have the AC alternator interference I read about. A year ago or so I decided to change my own trans fluid and filter and attempt a band adjustment as I have read it should be done on the regular, although you also hear don't touch it, too late. (Messy job! No drain plug! WHY!?) So, these days I am experiencing some similar trans "hunting" it seemed to happen after the band adjustment but it is in the 1-2 gear range with very light throttle, more often on a hill. If I stomp on it it does not seem to have issues, pulls hard no slips or hunting. There seems to be a lot of gear searching in low gears depending a lot on the throttle. I'm wondering if my band adjustment is partially to fault for the symptoms. Although i never corrected the alternator issue, which leaves me to wonder if adjusting the bands could have made the the system more sensitive to the AC noise i probably still have based on my first ground wire rerouting? I notice that when put into reverse it seems to hit pretty hard on engage.. The 45 mph overdrive hunting seems to be a non-issue these days as it holds the OD going up hills well now.. This makes me think the band responsible for the lower gears and reverse could be loosened up a touch maybe?? Would the bands effect the shifts in this way or is it AC noise related or maybe both?? I want to open up the trany in the future to do another filter change and maybe a small adjustment to bands again. I have read and searched so much I think I'm confused -Next time I'm in the trany are there some small parts like solenoids or springs or anything i could change to keep it healthy without getting in too deep? -I am in the process of doing the "W-T ground mod" I can not find the bolt that fits into the VP44 for ground. listed as M5 5/16 hex head which is one size too small for my hole, closest i came was M6 0.8 pitch which goes in a turn and a quarter or so and gets snug. Possible people have different size holes on VP44?? I think I have to use the bolt i found and pray it holds tight. If not I guess i can come up with a ground close by even if extension is needed. -Looks like I have a Bosch alternator, what are my options for diodes or addressing AC noise? Alternator replacement choices? Thanks in advance!

Just joined the community today. Just replaced my in-tank fuel pump yesterday. Not sure if this helps but here goes some info from my job. Wanting to give my old 1999 24v some love I got a fuel PSI gauge, turns out at idle its at 4 PSI !! (not good) My truck apparently was apparently converted to in-tank lift pump some time ago so i opted for a direct replacement. I decided on Spectra Premium SP7036M lift pump. ( I liked their website and being able to find specs on part etc) It claims 21-36 PSI and 65-80 GPH Truck now runs at 24PSI at idle and 15 or so opened up! I am happy with that. The old pump basket and screen filters were so full of rust it looked like a beach in there!! I opted to drop the tank down and not remove the bed, not sure which would be easier. I was able to do it on my own. Just be careful of the pump hoses and electrical when lowering it, try disconnect them before dropping tank much at all.