Irie808

How about some high temp JB Weld on the threads and around the top edge?

Sounds like a similar set up you got to what im think IBMobile! How is your experience with the RV275's and EZ personally? Is there a particular area i should be seeing wear on the flex plate? Watched a nice video at Goerend's site showing wear or poor fit on the center hole Here's another link for some entertainment https://goerend.com/goerend-47-48re-non-sfi-billet-flexplate/

I have read great things about Dynamic and trust the opinions on this forum over others, that is one reason for looking into Goerend parts in a build. I live in Hawaii and with shipping times and build times that not will be an option for me to have my truck down for a month or more. This is why I'm looking for a built transmission so i can swap out with minimal down time. Does my assumption of having rather high miles trans and wanting to tow heavy make sense to just go all in and get a fully rebuilt trans though? Here is a link to the trany I'm eyeballing. https://www.mts-diesel.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_11_109&products_id=17700&osCsid=bmpok6hjqviif3auf247416ba1 Also..I wouldn't think I would need any billet shafts at my low tuning Edge EZ (possible injectors after a trans install..bosch rv275 maybe??) new flexplate needed?

My truck has just about 200k on it, I have owned it since 111k. I plan to tow a skid steer on a 14ft dump trailer estimated at 11k lb. combined. I live in Hawaii, we have some steep hills here and there. Recently I towed the trailer with a load of wood chips, and the truck revs way up before much forward movement trying to go uphill. I had considered trying to do some upgrades to it myself to see if I can rectify some of the issues on the cheap..some thoughts were: new solenoid kit; servo/accumulator piston; shift kit (i know, not recommended); trying to adjust pressure up on VB; even trying to change the TC. After thinking and reading on these for months I am leaning towards a built transmission so all the other internals can also be new as well, considering the age of it. I have read so many good things about Goerend I am looking at MTS built 47re using Goerend parts (copy and pasted) New triple-disc Goerend torque converter 10 Custom Stators Available Goerend Double Deep Pan Goerend Upgraded valve body Goerend 4140 steel 1-2 lever The Trans case is drilled for extra lube to the rear one way roller clutch All the Custom Goerend upgrades are used on each unit Exact same Bill of Materials as that of Goerend assembled by the MTS Experts Opinions on other brand built transmissions are appreciated

I had this problem some years back and was able to resolve it for a couple years by moving the ground wire away from the alternator. The problem returned after doing a band adjustment on the transmission not too long ago. I am still planing to do the W-T ground mod just been slacking on it. Simply moving the ground wire away from the alternator might help and confirm that you have the alternator interference

This is actually a 14ft dump trailer I bought used. I already had to change the wiring to the plug provided by PO as the colors did not match the manual. Think I got that part straightened out. Etrailer has taught me tons over the past few days, so much resources there. Thats where i got the start of this idea. I'm not wiring a trailer, that's done...i think. I'm wiring my truck for the 7way. It became more of a Dodge question when I want to tap existing factory wires i guess. Thanks for the responses 015.9

I guess the ease of the factory tail lights to give me a 4way is nice ( plug and play @ $20 or less) then all i need is 2 wires going towards cab. Question is if those wires at drivers fender well are viable for B+ and brake controller if anyone has used those before. It already has a 40A fuse wired at factory fuse box. As stated I have NO trailer harness at all at this point. Taking a spool of 7 wires and wiring everything from scratch sounds a bit more confusing to get the brake, running and blinker lights correct. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002Q7C08/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 After re-looking at the linked item it doesn't mention brake lights in description, could be a miss on their part but it looks a tad different than this item by Curt. @ $29 https://www.amazon.com/55329-Vehicle-Side-Custom-Trailer-Harness/dp/B0009I5WV0/ref=pd_sbs_263_4/132-4241595-7712258?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0009I5WV0&pd_rd_r=2d052afb-16f0-4ca2-af16-c28a0dfbbaff&pd_rd_w=uwZBo&pd_rd_wg=odhmW&pf_rd_p=52b7592c-2dc9-4ac6-84d4-4bda6360045e&pf_rd_r=6RANY8ABSSK5Q81RFR0R&psc=1&refRID=6RANY8ABSSK5Q81RFR0R

I Have NO trailer wiring harness. I am in need of a 7 way, with brake controller. I plan to buy a 4 way, simple factory plug into brake light, style connector. Couple that with a universal 4 way - 7way adapter. I DO have a factory brake controller plug under dash behind the e-brake area. Most instructions point to wiring the B+ and brake control wires directly to the controller and battery respectively, adding 40amp fuse for B+. I have found the factory blue controller wire and the B+ wire, already connected to a 40A fuse. Both wires are terminated at the 2 wire harnesses located behind the drivers side fender well. One harness has the blue wire on engine side of plug with no out wire. The other harness has a red/yellow B+ with no out wire. I tested the B+ with and without the fuse to confirm. I did a continuity test from the blue wire (which I understand to be in the electric brake control)on the harness in cab to the harness behind the fender well. I would like to run the 2 wires to the back of the truck to complete the 7-way connector utilizing the existing factory fuse electric brake wires. I have not found any posts utilizing this setup. Seeing if there any objections to my madness. I think it would be a cleaner and simpler install. Would you ever consider using romex home wires? Its all nice and jacketed together

I install solar systems part time. When we do battery based systems we coat all cables, connectors and battery posts with Vaseline to prevent corrosion. Terminals are crimped and heat shrinked

Thanks for clarifying this, my bad As I said still a noob here. You all rock!

I assume installing the mechanical fuel pump with the big line kit would lead you to getting inside the tank to do the draw straw. Would it be possible to install all the lines needed for your DTT prior to the pump install itself? I imagine the big line kit for the DTT would be specific to that pump and maybe not able to use on the stock setup you have now. Just a thought, might help you break up the cost and labor time into 2 parts. Would be interesting to see what difference the big line kit makes with the setup you have now. SilverMoose seems to have good results with the pump you have and the big line kit.

Wil440, have you been inside the fuel tank recently? I ask because of what i found inside my tank when changing the in-tank pump out. Tons of fine rust enveloping the screens in there. I'd want to see inside the tank just to see whats going on in there if you haven't yet I'm a noob here but your pressures don't seem too far off from ideal from my understanding. I wouldn't be so worried if you hit 7psi a couple times when people say that 8psi WOT is considered good.

When I look at that picture and look under my truck it would seem to me they are the same bolt. Or they are showing 2 different bolts that go in to the same location. Under my truck I see that the referenced bolt (6) goes through the mount that has the rubber bumper and threads into the bracket above with the welded nuts. To me the image above shows 2 different bolts for the same location. I will go grab a couple M10x1.5 bolts and give them a try. There is another larger weld on nut on the same bracket (only 1 nut on one side of the bracket) also empty but does not connect to anything that i can see Irie

I too have been looking for some "pan off upgrades". This seems to be the package I have zeroed in on. https://www.oregonperformancetransmission.com/product/OPT-A518-A618-EL.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9Ka77M6U5AIVkMJkCh1ZIgQhEAQYASABEgIhBPD_BwE Rostra dual pack shift solenoid – 3-4 and lockup HD 50185 Borg Warner governor pressure solenoid Rostra governor pressure sensor - transducer temperature sensor Output speed sensor Sonnax updated 3-4 accumulator spring Governor pressure solenoid body gasket Correct me if I'm wrong, the Rostra dual pack shift solenoid – 3-4 and lockup, the Sonnax updated 3-4 accumulator spring must be changed by dropping the valve body. Will these 2 parts improve transmission function? Or are they more of a replacement for failing parts vs. upgrade. What symptoms would arise from these 2 parts failing? The rest of the kit can be changed by just dropping the pan. I'm kinda wanting to just change just the pressure solenoid, transducer and shift solenoid. I don't want to neglect changing a part that is highly recommended to change though...thoughts appreciated ( I have some low throttle, 1-2, 2-3 shift issues, like its not sure which gear to be in at shift point, up hills are worse. Seem to have helped when adjusting TV cable. I have moved it a couple times trying to find a sweet spot, still a work in progress, going a touch tighter next time. Under moderate throttle it finds the gears better) I read around a lot and sometimes don't know where I've read it but I am curious to know when looking at band adjustment screws, is there some way to get an idea on band life by how many threads are showing on the adjustment screw? Not a bad idea to take a picture while I"m there for reference I suppose.

The screen is removed in this photo, it came out with the pump , this is just the rust left in the bottom which looks like it has come from my filler neck. I'd say the vent tube side in particular as it had a couple pin holes in it and some gnarly rust. Now that i think about, it is curious how its all sitting inside the basket still. The bottom of the basket has some fine holes in it acting as a screen itself, not letting anything back out I guess. Tank it self was not as bad just some bigger rusts. If they just made the filler neck out of plastic like the tank...no rust When you cut the screens out does that involve doing a draw straw < to frame mount primary filter < to frame mount lift pump? Or would you still be using anything left in the tank? Good idea to save the basket minus the pump encase I want to convert a basket for a draw straw right? Or If down the road i get to that situation would I be buying a new basket (sending unit?) Guess good to save everything if you got the room right

Not related to the cold and gelling problem but I had mentioned how bad the inside of my in-tank lift pump screens were so I thought I'd share a picture I took after prying the pump out of the way...

Well just to report back the size i ended up with was a 3/8 thread and 9/16 hex head with a couple lock washers. Quite different than the M14 specked out in that image or what im finding at ACE is not the same Got it all locked up and tight down there now

Yes It has shown to be consistent that after battery disconnect the wait to start light will be delayed till after all the other lights and chimes stop then it will come on for 2 sec < then you can start. After a week or so of this, there is no wait to start light at all. Just went out and tried to start like a gasser and it did not want to start, although it probably would have if i kept on it. Just wait 2-3 sec after key turn and it fires right up with no wait to start. It has been like this for years and does not bother me, just a curious one to note I guess.

Dont know how I missed that old thread brought back about ECM and Wait to start just a few posts below. Still not sure thats my issue as my wait to start does not come on at all now, but truck starts fine. If i tried to start it prior the Light coming on (when it was working) it would not start.

This seems to be consistent for my truck. I usually do not get a wait to start light on the dash...i just wait for the chimes and other lights to go out and turn the key, starts right up. What I have noticed over the years of ownership is that after the batteries are disconnected the will function again.(I usually notice after trying to start my normal way and just get cranking) I now have a FP gauge which gives me other details on this light. When it does function the light will come on two seconds or so after all the other lights and bells have gone off. When the light does come on I notice the FP gauge spikes up and then returns to zero as if the pump is turned on for a second. None of this is a problem, rather a curiosity as to if this is normal happening for these trucks or what causes the light to stop coming on. (I can actually start the vehicle sooner this way which is nice) When the light does NOT come on as it is doing now I do NOT notice the FP gauge spike before starting... Again, no problem just odd...perhaps indicative of something else?? Anyone else ever notice this?

Thanks Haggar! I would not have been able to navigate that manual to find that bolt size. I have questions and not sure if i should be sifting through the forums to find a similar post to attach them to or start a new one. Think I'll be starting a few new threads soon, thanks again

I notice I seem to be missing the 2 bolts that connect my transfer case to the rubber bumper/frame cross member. There are 2 Nuts welded on to the rubber bumper bracket. Any help figuring out the size of these bolts so I could just get something at the hardware store? Thanks (PS, starting new threads for this kind of questions is fine? just put in correct area i figure?)

I think getting inside your tank and giving it a good cleaning will make your truck very happy in general. I would like to know what you find in there. I have no experience with the cold where I live but was thinking you could get creative with some forms of insulation for the fuel lines or even around the tank. I hope you can just drop in the new pump and all the connections are right there. Good luck buddy, let us know how it goes.

I have noticed used vehicle prices rise steadily too.Besides becoming rare, I think the older vehicles seem to go up in value because a new truck will cost you 50k give or take! A new-used will be 30k! All of a sudden that 20 year old truck looks good for 10k...Keep a few K on the side for upgrades and Good to go. What do 2nd gens with 200k miles go for in your neck of the woods? https://honolulu.craigslist.org/big/cto/d/tyro-2002-dodge-2nd-generation-cummings/6935504928.html Not sure what this guy is smoking! Drugs are bad! 25k obo! Thats extreme, but you will see most of them above 10k with high miles and beat up here Nice ones will be asking 15k i guess. Bought mine for 7K over 8 years ago with 111k mi. Got a great deal as brakes were fried and scary shaky to drive and no one wants an automatic.

Since we are talking dash, one idea a buddy tried and seems to work was to do fiberglass mesh and some resin to strengthen it before it crumbles then just run a dash cover, we did a small spot on my dash when he was working on his boat...seems to hold up so far