CUMMINSDIESELPWR

Below is a video of replacing the valve seals on a 24 valve cummins engine. first get a valve compression tool that is for the 24v head. remove injector hold down bolt bolt base of tool to the injector hold down bolt holes snug is fine place top of tool on springs centering over valve stems with the greased nut, tighten tool down until all the valve stem keepers are retrievable many times the valve seat will stick to the keepers and will need to be broken loose with a socket and hammer to free them (see in video) pull keepers keys (2 halves) with a magnet and place on a template for each valve (do not mix any parts to other valves) loosen tool and remove plate take springs and keeper seats off and place in there designated holder with pliers, grip and twist and pull the old seals off clean seal seats as there will be crud under them from oil and soot yellow seals are intake14mm deepwell socket to drive these green seals are exhaust 13mm deepwell socket to drive these replace yellow for yellow and green for green after cleaning seal seats on head place each spring and keeper seats back to original positions and ensure they are seated in the head properly (not sitting on a machined lip) then pull on each valve stem to make sure they are all the way up place tool plate back on and centered place nut back on the tool and torque down to where you are able to place the keepers back in once keepers are put into the "keeper pocket" push the valve down a little to get the keepers to grab the valve stem (may need to elevate the head a bit to get clearance to do this) when all keepers are preset, untorque the tool and watch the springs to ensure they grab the keepers and they sit in the pocket properly when pressure is off remove top of tool and remove bottom of tool re-install injector hold down bolt with a dab of BLUE loctite inspect all 4 valves for proper re-installation done if valves are to be replaced or different springs are to be replaced it is the same steps outlined above. for more details please watch video below. http://youtu.be/BpSH_BzKq6k

So this thread is an illustration of me actually doing the work. What is not in the commentary in the photos is the axle center bearing has to be pressed off with a 12ton press. The new bearing and the bearing replacement was done at Englewood Driveshafts Inc (Denver). Bill was the one who replaced the bearing after i removed the driveshafts and brought the front portion to him. The new bearing,rubber damper,bearing removel and replacement was less than $100. He was very nice to tell me how it was put on, a few tricks next time and he let me watch most of the work in his shop. Total time to replace just the bearing appx 20 minutes. Total time from start to finish if done all at once appx 3 hours (drive time included in that). I was able to do this by myself, you just need to ensure not to let the parts come crashing down on you and injuring you. When after the bearing was replaced, assemblage of all the components is exactly backwards from the removal. start with inserting the front shaft into the transfer case,bolting the bearing carrier to the drop down hangar, bolt the hangar to the crossmember with the 4 bolts, slide on the rear portion of the shaft, crimp on the new strap on the boot, align the rear ujoint to the axle input yoke, ensure the cups are set into the yoke properly (you will see the clean pressure points on the cups, match these to the yoke). Then put a touch of loktite on the 4 small bolts, torque them per MFG specs (will update with torqe specs). Test drive to ensure no weird vibrations or issues. You are looking for PN: 04773014 Amazon http://www.amazon.com/Mopar-Drive-Center-Support-Bearing/dp/B00MJ2MMGW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458702477&sr=8-1&keywords=04773014. Ebay http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.A0.H0.X04773014..TRS5&_nkw=04773014.&_sacat=0 DONE!