dennhop

One thing that worked for me, is I bought two dewalt step bits, and once I had my pilot hole, I used the step bit...I love those things.

You got any more pics of the rest of this setup? I'm intrigued! Are you running it to an adjustable regulator, or is this just how you got it hooked up right now?

Yeah, I got the same kit a while back...I'll be honest with you, I ended up welding the brackets to the frame, because of the way they were formed, they didn't sit flat on it...there was too much of a curve for the bolts to go through. On the passenger side, I had the holes drilled, and the bolts in, so the welds were a reinforcement, as well as keeping it from wobbling side to side. On the driver's side, I straight welded it to the frame...I know you're not supposed to weld to the frame, but I haven't had any issues with the brackets or the frame there. I would not however, recommend a harbor freight or any other "cracker jack" 110 welder-had one years ago, and the only thing you could weld with that was about 1/4 in-and that required multiple passes to get the strength in the weld. I'm using a Lincoln 180 mig now, and I can weld 1/2in steel without much of an issue. It costs a bit more ,but it's worth the money.

None Yet! *knocking on wood* I did get a surprise today in the mail...I completely forgot I ordered a drive pressure gauge.... Sooooooo, now i need to find one more spot somewhere for another gauge....I think my apillar's pretty full at this point-gonna have to think about this one for a bit... I did find out though, that the visor will go down, with a little "gentle persuasion" on the bendy end...

So what'd ya have to do to get it to extend out?

I've seen those and actually had one in this truck before I owned it. We just unbolted the dash up front and ran the wires between the dash and the windshield. I don't want to go with that yet just because I didn't want two empty holes in a gauge pod...and I didn't want to spend the money.

:think:Ummmmm.....let's just sat between an exacto knife and my wifes abilities with a needle and thread it will....

So, I didn't want to spend any more money than I needed too, but I did need to run a boost gauge between the primary and secondary, to see what my primary is lighting at. I already had a boost gauge, pyro, and fuel pressure. I still had my autometer mechanical 0-60 boost gauge, so I didn't have to spend any more money on that, and I still had the old A pillar 2 gauge mount. After some quick cutting and fitting, here's what it turned out to be-notice anything different? My own Dodge 4 gauge pillar pod!

Late to the game, but some good info here.. I've used this site for both mirrors and glass- They've changed their product listing a bit, but for the non heated towing mirror glass, its still about 20 bucks...just got to run it under the 2002 year search, as it doesn't show up 2001 or older for the towing mirrors... They also have some of the cheapest prices for the manual towing mirrors-I haven't priced the powered ones. Also despite the claim that the mirrors don't come with brackets, every time I've orded from them, they came with the support brackets also... http://www.wheelskin.com/replacement-mirror-glass.html?gclid=CPaPp4jhmKACFQwhDQodx1p3ew

I herculined mine with one of the roll on kits, from advanced-took me about 6 hours to do, since I went ahead and stripped it down to bare metal on the cab. So far, it's sticking well, and went on fairly easily. I do have a spare Al's kit, with the crumb, that I'm not entirely sure I'm going to do anything with...maybe when I cut my front bumper up to mount my winch, I'll spray everything down with that... Before: During... After: []

Well when you find it...

OK, I'm on my tablet,so this is going to be a bit disjointed....but here's a bunch cut and pasted. And now that I think about it, I had that issue too, after a rebuild on my 97...billet single tc, goerend vb, and new clutches... Customer Concern: Transmission is not shifting correctly. Can shift it manually and it will shift. No codes are stored. Tests/Procedures: 1. Verify the operation of the Output Shaft Speed Sensor (OSS). Repair as needed. 2. Verify the governor pressure sensor, it should be approximately 0.5 volts when the vehicle is not moving. This voltage should increase with vehicle speed. At 20 MPH it should be approximately 1.25 volts. At 40 MPH it should be approximately 2.25 volts. At 60 MPH it should be approximately 3.0 volts. Potential Causes: Governor Pressure Sensor Governor Pressure Solenoid Output Shaft Speed (OSS) Sensor Diagnostic Codes: None Figured it out. Here's what it was for those who might come across this same issue. 1999 Dodge 2500 4X4, 5.9 Cummins Diesel, 47RE Automatic The short of it: Bad JTEC (computer), bad pressure transducer. Possibly bad gov solenoid. I don't know if the computer took out the sensors or vise verse. The long of it: I got a bad transducer from the parts store so I replaced it again and got .62v at idle, but when I put the trans in gear (wheels not turning) it went to 2.79v- way too high. I had 0 psi gov pressure at all times at the gov pressure port. After completely checking the wiring (resistance, shorts, opens) and finding it to be in perfect condition, I started to check what the computer was telling the trans to do. This is where the problem was. I checked the control circuits for the torque converter, 3-4 shift, and gov pressure. They all had 0.00 ohms to ground at the same time. I suspected a short or a possible failure of one of the solenoids so I rechecked the solenoids, then manually actuated the solenoids one at a time from the C2 JTEC connector (unplugged). While doing that I checked the other trans circuits for possible shorts or crosstalk. All the solenoids clicked one at a time and the voltages were good. For some stupid reason the computer developed an internal short to ground on the three control circuits. I suspect that the fuse blew because all three solenoids were on 100% of the time, causing an overload of the 12v transmission circuit. - - - Updated - - - Another guy mentioned two "disconnects" off the battery, one going to the computer and one going to the trans....only thing I can think of would be fusible links, if your models have that...they said they got rid of them and soldered them together and it fixed their limp mode... Another mentioned he solved his with a stock governor assembly....I can't tell if you've done any of this already....tablets are hard to multitask on with forums! Another thought: hmmmmm dosen't go into first? so it starts in second..... if you manually select first and as it starts rolling put it in drive when it shifts does it skip 2nd and go to 3rd? if so then it is a line pressure issue and you need to install a voltage limiter inline with the Gov pressure sender wire in the harness..... also there is a sensor on the rear of the tranny.... from the tailshaft there is the speedo gear at aprox 9 o'clock IIRC and then a little farther forward at 7 o'clock there is a sensor that has 2 wires going to it..... this seems to me like it is your problem...... if the sensor was replaced the pins may not be the same size (slightly different per manufacturer) or the plug may be worn out from the constant vibration...... you need to go to Dodge and buy the new plug that comes with about a foot of wire with the ends already on them, heatshrink, solder connectors...... the part number is 1-05013950AA i'm not sure how much it is but that would be my first guess...... This guys solution..... "The issue has been resolved. We installed a new electronics package inside the transmission. That did not fix anything. We tested all of the leads from the PCM to where they went both on the transmission connector and to the power distribution center. They were all fine. We swapped relays in the PDC, but that didn't fix anything. Turns out the ones we swapped might have been bad....BUT it took a resistor in the B31 orange wire that I noticed HAD BEEN CUT before we got the truck and then splice back together. I'll bet someone put a shift kit in the truck before and a mechanic or a dealer pulled it out while diagnosing the problem before we got our hands on it. It took that resistor to drop the pressure code off, and then the installation of a NEW relay to finish the repair. I don't think the relay would have worked alone without the resistor. I think that code would have kepth the system in limp mode no matter what else was done." - - - Updated - - - There's another thread on CompD talking about how the higher line pressures don't talk well with the computer...and mentioned wiring a resistor. I had the link cut and pasted, but then my tablet died before I could hit save....

I vote leave the pot in! Infinite adjustability. The other thing is if you ever decide to go back to the tps, you can leave the pot in place so if the new one ever goes bad, you already have it in place and sitting.

I don't remember spending more than about 15 bucks tops for mine! Lol

It was a California truck...grrrrrr.

I'm about 99% sure its a stock ofv

Have you looked into testing the OD shift out, using a potentiometer wired into the TPS switch? Might help with the troubleshooting, having it locked at a set resistance, off a potentiometer, as opposed to letting the trans try and figure it out on its own... I can't view the link, since I'm still at work, but this might be the right thread, to show you what I'm talking about... http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/installing-potentiometer-place-tps-t142641.html

In an attempt to get the 160 pump fed the proper amount of fuel, I've ordered the fittings to dual feed the pump, as well as bump my fuel pressure up to hopefully between 45-55 psi. Once its all in, I will let you know how it runs then! I currently can run up to about 55 lbs of boost on these roads, with the pyro hitting around 1400/1500, and dropping back down. Fuel pressure is around 30 psi running normal, and starts to drop to about 25-28 psi under load, so hoping to add more fuel, and see if the truck doesn't seem to fall flat on its face when I'm at WOT. All in all, it's only going to run me about $50-60 for all the parts I need to do it.

They're Weld Sidewinders, and they are aluminum...I'm not sure, but I think they're discontinued now though... - - - Updated - - - I haven't figured out yet what to do with the bed...debating between selling it all in pieces or as a whole-tailgate does have a nice dent on the top, where i hit it with a gn-wasn't high enough:doh: Only bad thing is I can't do shipping, it would all have to be local pickup...and I'm in NC...a bit a ways from where you are!

I think I'd have to let my wife convince me that we need more than just chickens, to justify that! Here's a few more pics in the daylight... Welds aren't the prettiest, but they will hold...just need to shoot some paint on them...

I'll try to answer everything in this post right here! Macarena Man:This is new to me, the design has been around for a bit-the company name is Bradford Built.I'm pretty happy with the design, The only change I would like to see, and it's petty, is that the ring shackles on the flip sides are just a hair too small to run my standard chain link through-like, if I grind off the paint on the shackle, it might fit it...Other than that, I love the design.Price for a Bradford Built, like mine, which is minus the tool box on the front lower portion, is around $2700 out the door. Because I paid cash, and the retailer hooked me up, I was able to walk out the door at $2500 flat.MoparDave68:If your buddy has any questions, feel free to hit me up via PM, as I was kinda nervous about swapping out, until I really started looking at it, and realized it wasn't going to be THAT difficult...if my garage was bigger, it would have been a lot easier, to get the truck in and welded up. I'll take some pics of how I mounted it to the frame, later today...diesel4life:It did light up a lot quicker-only bad thing was trying to keep the rear end planted on the ground...without the weight on the bed, I seemed to find bumps in the road that didn't exist!

Finished everything but the two trailer plugs today! All the lights work, bed is mounted, fuel filler is mounted, and everything is dandy! After I pulled the bed off...had to take it for a drive, just because...it rode like crap! I took it to the car wash, and hosed the frame down-figured I'd do it while the bed was off, and make it easy! This was after I had dropped the bed on, but hadn't gotten everything mounted on yet-was still in the process of welding the back supports to the flatbed in this pic. I'll have to get another pic later, but it was dark by the time I finished up tonight... Tail lights and running lights all working. The wiring was stupid simple, awesome job by Bradford Built! With the reverse lights-it's pretty cool having the top two mounted high, throws a lot of light! And since I have my lights mounted on a switch, I can turn them on whenever I want too...

Well, got a lot accomplished today! Got the old bed off, the flatbed on, with the steel cross supports laid in place. I do need to add about 1/4 plate between the square stock I have, buy some channel to mount the front to the frame, do some drilling, welding, and wiring, but the hardest part is done! It'll probably take me a few days to finish off the rest of it all. Phone died on me, so no pics of how it sets today-will try and get some tomorrow!

Well, I finally went and did it...was a 8 hour round trip to pick up the bed, but I think it's going to be worth it! Decided to get rid of the dually bed, and replace it with a flatbed-went with a Bradford Built bed. I'm still in the process of pulling the old bed off, and getting the new one fitted, but here's a few pics of the trip! One of these is mine! This one, apparently! My road trip partners! Out with the old! Only thing left to do is pull the front 4 mounting bolts and lift it off...back bumper, receiver, wiring, and fuel filler are all disconnected. In with the new! I've since cut out the built in gooseneck hitch, and will be reusing my B&W turnover ball that's currently mounted on the truck.