gimmie11s

I could really use the 7x10s. So $400 with core? I should probaby keep mine since i just put 7x085 nozzles in them literally last month hahaha. What pop pressure do you set them at? Funny you mention the s257sxe BW... I have a friend that runs 2 of them on a Mustang and loves them. We are able to get the supercores for about $500 so i had thought about putting one on my truck but ended up just going with the hybrid. I actually wanted more turbine than the 61mm on the baby BW.

TY sir. Today I got mine fully installed using the relay per your write up. My delay to brake engagement once throttle is lifted is about 1.5 seconds also. Works perfect! Thanks again... you've been a huge help. .

That would be so awesome. The masses are here.. .bring it on! lol Totally agree... the videos @Me78569 made walking you through v2 and how to set it up really helps to get oneself familiar with this software. I love v2 and appreciate it for what it is.

Yes... i built a few tunes for the truck and it runs amazing. I like the v2 platform. Ive tuned a few cars (turbo mitsubishis) and while v2 is still very limited, it gets the job done and is much superior to the alternatives. I'd like to see fueling based on rpm along with boost....basically a 3d map you can customize based on rpm and load (boost) combined. We also need more rpm plots for timing adjustment. That turbo youre building will be good for 500+. I shouldn't have a problem getting 450-475+ out of mine.

EXACTLY what im doing/going after. I think i'll spend money twice on injectors unfortunately. I need 7x10s. Good to hear you love yours. I want to tow on level 3 without wire tap and still be able to pull the hills at 55-60 mph in 4th and 7x10s are probably the answer. Before my turbo upgrade i needed level 4 to do that but EGTs got a bit warm. With the way this turbo is performing, im certain 7x10s would get me to where I want to be. These trucks are definitely addicting and EASY to work on. Love it!

@Gregturley any idea if it would be safe to run the brake through the ECM 20 pin without a relay? Basically PIN 20 would be in place of the throttle switch that was included in the kit. I got my brake plumbed and tested how quick it actuates using the throttle switch and it is basically immediate as you cycle the momentary throttle switch off and on.. ..I really like this. My thought is running it through the relay once i wire it to Pin 20 is going to slow down the operation of the brake. Thoughts? Quick video below

Tell me about your DAP 7x10s... anything youd have done diferent? Larger? Smaller? How do you like that 325 bar pop pressure?

The 64mm turbine and 62 compressor are going to be great, probably the perfect sizes. You'll love it. I wanted to stay as close to stock spool as possible but in hindsight, I could have gone 62mm compressor since my truck has 4.10s and operates over 2000rpm at freeway speeds. This really is a great upgrade for half the cost of a new BW S3xxSXE... I really need some 7x10s!! Tell me about your DAP 7x10s... anything youd have done diferent? Larger? Smaller? How do you like that 325 bar pop pressure? Thanks

Yeah, for some reason i coudlnt get the website to embed the pics. Thanks for the offer on the butterfly, but i already opened my second hole up some. I'll try it out and open more if necessary. If you end up welding your hole closed an re-drilling, my hole was 1/4" before i opened it up. Shrinking the hole on yours should give stronger braking. I also countersunk my bolt holes where the butterfly bolts to the shaft. Then i went and bought countersunk bolts an nuts ... hopefully this will allow better exhaust flow through the pacbrake when not in use. couple more pics,.. lets see if these will embed. https://postimg.cc/7GgmdQ9x https://postimg.cc/JHMPLcYj

@Gregturley i found something interesting. There is a warning label on my brake telling me this unit i have (part number C14000AT) is for automatic trans trucks only and that using it on a manual would harm the engine. My truck is a manual so that got me wondering if the brake you have is for an auto or manual and is there really a difference? Both of these brakes (yours and mine) are for 12v trucks with the weaker exhaust valve springs. Fair enough. My bigger question was what is the difference between the two brakes? Looking at your pictures, ive found the answer. You actually have a manual trans exhaust brake. The orifice on your butterfly that is NOT plugged with a bolt/nut is 31/64" and much larger than the same orifice on my butterfly. Both brakes have 2 holes drilled into the butterflys. One of the 2 holes is a beveled hole that can be plugged with a nut/bolt (like yours) for more braking power once the theoretical 12v truck owner upgrades his exhaust valved springs. The OTHER hole is specific to the manual trucks and the auto trucks. The auto trucks have much smaller 2nd hole (around 1/4"). That manual versions have a much larger second hole of around 31/64" like yours. Long story short, i should probably plug my 1st hole and drill out the second hole to match yours. You should weld and re-drill your 2nd hole to a smaller size for better braking power. Here are a couple pics [url=https://postimg.cc/PvYGcQJm][img]https://i.postimg.cc/rsY8DhLY/pbrake.jpg[/img][/url] [url=https://postimg.cc/8FYXdf4M][img]https://i.postimg.cc/KzcX2ngq/pbrake-warning.jpg[/img][/url] https://postimg.cc/PvYGcQJm https://postimg.cc/8FYXdf4M

Nice truck. The 6.7 in the Fords is a GREAT motor with power to spare and that trans is damn near indestructible.

Well i got her all buttoned up and running. Local turbo shop was able to open up my hx35 12cm turbine housing for the new 64mm turbine wheel.... only charged me $40 to do it. First impressions... WOW! Absolutely love it. The boost threshold has moved up in the RPM range by about 200 RPM. Where the hx35 was making steam around 1600rpm, this one is coming on hard at 1800rpm. I can control boost pressure with my right foot around the 1950-2000 rpm mark (this is where its "on the pipe"). It really is perfect for my gears and how much weight i tow.... With the hx35, the most boost ive ever seen was about 33-34 under heavy load on max default Quad setting (level 10). EGTs would skyrocket quickly and I'd have to let off the throttle. First drive with the new turbo and boost blew past 40psi almost immediately and I let off. Pulled over and turned down my boost pressure (adjustable boost controller) so it maxes out around 35-38 psi. I was originally considering going non-wastegate.. glad i didnt! This turbo would probably make 50 psi. I can now run level 10 on the Quad all the way to redline and EGT barely creeps past 1200 degrees with boost being around 37-38 psi. Amazing amazing upgrade! With any luck, next week i'll be installing an NOS pacbrake i bought off offerup last night. Should be a perfect combo! Couple pics and a short video ... Quick video of the turbo whistle.. sweet!!

Thanks.. my truck is a manual so i wont mess withe line pressure deal... Here you go

Whats going on guys? OP how i your brake working? Question... I scored a NOS pacbrake complete kit off of Offerup tonight for $300. It appears everything is there including s a throttle switch which im assuming could be used in place of your ECM 20 pin trigger. However, the instructions i have look like this is for a P pump truck. Any idea if what i have will work?

7x10s would be good. Probably what i should have done instead of .085s... ... im hoping the 64 turbine and 60 compressor will be close to stock spool

Nice! You went bigger than me. How does it spool? How is the power? Im into mine for $500... of course i have to assemble it myself.

Got some presents in the mail today from the good ol US Postal Service. I am going to build a hybrid hx35/40. Well.. it'll be mostly HX40 with the only 35 carryover being the turbine housing. As much as I searched, it just does not seem like there is a reasonbly priced turbo between an HX35 and a 62/68 BW variant that everyone seems to love. As cool as a BW 62mm would be, i just dont need that much turbo, i dont want the added lag, and my truck's primary function is towing my 5th wheel toybox which is around 13k loaded so i need the turbo to spool reasonably quick. I ended up buying what is basically a new, un-assembled complete hx40 without the turbine housing (ill be reusing the 12cm 35 housing). Specs: --10 blade 64mm hx40 turbine --60mm billet hx40 compressor --new center section --new compressor housing machined to match the billet compressor I just dropped off my turbine housing at the machine shop to be bored out for the larger turbine wheel. Hope to pick it up tomorrow at which point i'll assemble the turbo and install. Couple pics

Great idea!!! Lots of useful info in this thread...

Fantastic thank you.. Ill check that out.

I might have a line on a used similar brake to you @gregturley. It looks like you used a brake for a 94-98 truck based on the turbine housing outlet.. mine is not v-band (1999 nv4500 truck), Either way, if i can get my hands on one, i will be using your article to get it up and going! Thanks a ton.

What a great score! Very nice

Nice job looks great. Where did you fine the used brake? I need one badly (towing a 12k 5er) but dont feel like dropping $1500 on a new one.

Nice, thank you... im on page 2 of that thread. Was actually hoping for a simple solution like on off switched exhaust brake haha but now realizing this is a whole other can of worms with the variable vanes.

This is unbelievable! So glad i found this. Could be my answer for finding the ultimate towing turbo AND exhaust brake! Most importantly... What did you do to wire up the VGT?

Hmmm. Interesting. That would be a great ratio for me. Just dont think i want to step up to a 35.