Zamboni

Im not sure on the stall. It came with a kit i bought, all the invoice says is dpc drm1 low stall converter. This problem may have started after converter install, i changed the turbo after 1st trip with new trans and noticed problem when i tried to get my 5th wheel back in my yard which is a slight incline.

It is the 3:54(55) rear end. We are about 4700ft. I think i will install my hy turbo and see if it makes a difference, that is a free and easy swap and that seems to be when the problem started. I only changed it to try and lower egts but no with the adrenaline they are under control.

I can hook up my scanner and check. That would make sense. Not sure why in reverse only but it is worth a try.

So i have the hx installed now. This problem seemed to evolve when i switched from the hy i think. I was thinkin hy would spool better due to smaller housing. May be something in trans but don't understand why just with weight.

In reverse under load rpms will not go above about 1200 and lots of black smoke. Rpm does not increase and engine does not stall. It just bogs down. Trans has a couple thousand miles on it with a single billet DPC converter, has no issues other than no reverse power with a load. Go just fine in reverse unloaded. Have had problem with 3 different trailer of various weights. Not sure where to go from here.

2wd

I use manual first all the time, there is no slippage. I pull a 12k pound trailer and start out in manual first and reach 30+ lbs of boost with no issues. It just won't push a trailer up a hill in reverse. I don't get it. I was ready to give up on this truck last year and decided to install the adrenaline now I'm second guessing that decision.

So the issue I'm having is i have no power in reverse, not transmission problem power but my truck will not push my 5th wheel trailer in reverse up an incline, just black smoke. So ever since i changed to an HX35 turbo and a lower stall torque converter this has been an issue. My thinking on this problem is the lower stall converter is not allowing the engine to increase in rpm to get any boost from the turbo. So question is, will my old hy35 spool better with this setup or would a stock or higher stall converter be a better option or am i just missing something?

Prior to having my injectors set to 320BAR i had changed the nozzles myself i thought it ran ok but did notice a slight rough idle, rough running at high RPMs while towing and high EGTs, after having the injectors built and set at 320 the truck idles very smooth and has no high RPM or EGT issues. My injectors had just over 100k miles and im pretty sure they were well below recommended pressures.

With this setup are you able to use the braking feature? I am picking up a 351ve tomorrow.

I'll keep that in mind. Thanks.

Nice. I am an Aircraft Electrician for the Air Force, that would be a pretty simple project, I could build the harnesses and do the soldering.

DoubleTrouble this explains it well

Only tuner ever used was the superchips and it had no high idle feature. It works now, just a fluke thing I guess.

Interesting. This truck has only seen winter the last 2 years of its life. My grandparents wintered in southern Arizona up until my grandpa couldn't drive anymore. I don't use it much during the winter either, I mainly use it to tow my 5th wheel and a couple dump runs here and there. It has never had an ECM re-flash, like I said I have done all maintenance since new. Only has 126k miles.

OK scratch the warm-up mode comment. Was apparently just some random thing that happened while I still had it in the shop. Works fine now on old setting and on V2. Weird. I will let you know how the original EGT problem pans out as soon as I tow my trailer again. Maybe I will go tow my buddy's skid steer just to try it out. Once I get my tow tune set up anyway

Apparently my high idle has never been turned on. My grandpa bought this truck new in 2000 and I am the only person that has ever worked on it other than a new overdrive by the dealer when still under warranty. When I first got the adrenaline installed it did work a couple times but I wasn't running V2. Maybe I will go set it back to original Adrenaline software and see what happens. Stand by

My truck has never high idled. I start it and it runs at 800 RPM.

My truck don't have OEM high idle I have never had any high idle. My Banks brake usually closes when cold to assist in warm-up but I disconnected the wire for that. What do you mean here?

OK, got the adrenaline installed, had DAP set up my 7x.009 SAC injectors at 320 BAR, truck runs much smoother. Copied over DD tune from V2 article for test run and have to say its a crazy difference. Still trying to understand what everything is in the custom tuning but I'm figuring it out. Did find a boost leak at the first coupler, bubbled pretty good at 20psi, fixed that and cranked it up to 40psi and that blew the plastic cap out of my homemade boost leak tester, its tight now. Ran it down the road and easily hit 40psi of boost according to my data log, stuff happens so fast I don't have time to look at gauges, good thing it logs data. It did log a peak EGT of 1375* but I did forget to turn on my defuel setting which is at 1250*. Just want to say thanks to those that helped me out, I have been looking at the Adrenaline for a while just couldn't bring myself to spend the $$, glad I did. One thing I did figure out is DAP is about 5 minutes up the road and they are very helpful. Oh, and don't do initial test drive on wet roads because once it takes off you lose all traction. One issue I do have though and I haven't called DAP yet, when I have my high idle set with a 30 second delay and my warm up mode on to 120* as soon as it kicks the idle up the truck shuts down and sets a MAP sensor code. I have to un-plug the MAP sensor to get it to start again. If I don't run warm up mode it is fine. Anybody have this happen?

I am receiving emails for posts but see no posts??

Not sure where the rest of the posts went here but here is the question. At what point do i need head studs?

So clamping the line off should stop the wastegate from functioning. Correct? So if it is my boost fooler that's fine. Im going to go ahead and order a quadzilla so i have something i can work with. In the meantime i will build me a boost leak tester and make sure i have no leaks. All my couplers and clamps are new so i think they're ok. I will check back in on this thread in a week or so and let you know how it goes. Thanks for all the suggestions.

That's why i clamped the vacuum line on wastegate. I know it's closed tight because i adjusted rod until no looseness then a couple more turns. My injectors are only about 40 horsepower.

I have no coolant temp issues. Maybe 200-210. So i tightened the rod on my wastegate until it had no play then went a little further. Im now getting about 30psi of boost on hard acceleration in stock and with tuner on performance. Better than it was. I also clamped some vice grips on wastegate line and there was no change. Not sure if that will help when towing but it's about 6psi more than before.