Jump to content


Gold Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

16 Unskilled

1 Follower

Personal Information

  • Location (City, State)

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I like this Idea for ball joint replacement. I had to heat the axle yoke quite a lot to get mine out, even with the heat it put a lot of stress on my ball joint tool and took me a good long time. This sounds like a better removal solution. I will also give a big shout out to EMF for their ball joints. I used AC Delco professionals on the driver side before I heard of EMF a short time later. The AC Delco's will probably last the life of the truck at the rate I put mile on it now, but I really like that the EMF's I put on the passenger side can be rebuilt. I'll for sure be looking at them again,
  2. I've been running the Dorman Premium Chassis D1413XL track bar, for $63 from Summit Racing. I don't have a lot of miles on it....about 7500 or so, but for 15-20 minutes and $63 dollars, I've been happy with it. Get the order up to $100 and it all ships for free. When it's not loose parts, I am a firm believer that Death Wobble is caused by a combination of Toe and Cross Caster. Cross Caster is hard to fix (on solid axle pickups), an offset ball joint is about the only way. Keeping the toe close to zero, adding caster (overall caster, not cross caster), and a steering stabilizer ca
  3. If it's front end parts that are hard to replace, then I use a known high quality part, such as Napa's premium line. If it's something I can change in 20-40 minutes, like a track bar, I don't think too much about it. I bought my truck with bad ball joints, bad track bar, and bad steering stabilizer. It never exhibited death wobble with all of those bad parts. I changed out the track bar, never had death wobble. I then moved on to the driver side ball joints, after the driver side was done, I decided to drive it for a few weeks. I ended up with death wobble, scared me half to death. I put
  4. I agree with the above, but will add that I would be suspect of the MAF sensor, considering he had a K&N in there. Most OBD tools will allow monitoring the Mass air flow. It's possible the MAF is reading low, not allowing the ECM to fuel, spool and go.
  5. @That GuyLOl, I have the same dyslexic issue, from time to time. I would say that sounds like the EGR valve needs cleaning... Did it get the 67,400 mile EGR service that is recommended? If not, there is pretty good video on youtube for it. The host name for the video is motorcitymechanic.
  6. @That Guyis it a P094D, or P049D. I don't see a P094D listed.
  7. The biggest downside of having the CEL light on: the remote start shuts back down after a few seconds of run time. IAT temp is much lower. It wasn't stabilized here, usually runs close to ambient air temps, without EGR. With EGR was usually around 125* IIRC. I still feel that the throttle is more responsive that when it was hooked up. I would like input on what programmers, and who's custom programming (possibly canned program) will be the best route to go. I have an early 2011, so ultimately I would like to upgrade to the 2011.5 and up power level, with a tow tune that is as stock now t
  8. Well, I couldn't help but try it. I disconnected the EGR valve. CEL came up as soon as I started it. Here is what OBDLink showed when I checked the trouble codes. So it would seem that the data out there that 2010-2011 trucks don't set a CEL for an EGR valve disconnected are a myth, or at least for this 2011 it is. I was pretty skeptical about that, now I know. EGR Duty Cycle stayed at zero, which I expected. I had also added a PID for "Relative Throttle A Position"(unfortunately I did not get a screen shot of value). I think that is the Throttle body the
  9. I do have OBDLink, I did a few searches and found that the newer version that I have is supposed to be on par with Torque Pro, but please correct me if I am wrong. I should be able to reset any soft codes. It would be interesting if I could figure out how to monitor the throttle blade position with OBDLink. I am now set up to monitor the MAP, so I should see the vacuum. I have already been monitoring the EGT sensors, o2 sensors, Exhaust pressure, EGR Duty Cycle, EGR Temperature, and DPF differential. I had no Idea that modules could be flashes with an OBD dongle, very
  10. I want to, but still trying to overcome my fear of setting a hard code that will require dealer intervention, even though I've been told it won't. I actually have been thinking that the solution that may prevent a ton of CEL codes, would be to take out the throttle valve butterfly, leaving it plugged in to actuate, but not restrict intake air without the throttle blade in place. Then make a restrictor plate to sandwich at the intake manifold under the EGR valve. The intent would be to limit the EGR flow substantially, but allow enough through for the system to think it's working.
  11. @That GuyI am pretty sure you are correct about 2012's and up, but according to the forum I linked earlier in this thread, 2010-2011's can have the EGR disconnected with a CEL worst case, not even a CEL best case. I just wish I could find a detailed how to. Does the EGR Valve, EGR Solenoid, and Throttle body all get disconnected, or just the valve. Also, I see different opinions on how this affects Regen cycles, some say it helps due to better burn in the cylinder, others say it will regen more due to the soot that is re-burned now going through the DPF. It's all very confusing
  12. Thanks, this has some good information, for sure! It's my understanding that 2012's will go into Limp/de-rate, but the 2010-11's will set a CEL worst case. This Is what I want to accomplish, Leave everything in place, but reduce or completely eliminate the amount of EGR going into the engine. I wish I could come up with some solid information on a way to do this without spending on a programmer. I have read that the plunger in the EGR valve can be removed. I wonder if I did that and removed the throttle valve butterfly if that would do it, or if I would caus
  13. I've been looking at this from different angles. I'm wondering if I simply removed the butterfly from the throttle valve, but left everything connected electrically, if that would substantially reduced the amount of EGR without throwing a CEL. It's my understanding that the throttle valve closes to help bring flow in from the EGR. It would seem to me that without a bufferfly to close, the engine would continue to ingest more fresh air and less EGR. Does this make any sense, or am I sounding like I'm smoking crack? I changed the oil a few hundred miles ago, and it was literally blacker than the
  14. I could probably deal with the CEL, as long as it runs normally(hopefully better). I have been using my OBDLink to monitor the EGT sensors and DPF differential, so I would be able to catch other codes with it. I think I will give that a try. Ultimately it seems I will need a programmer, so any input on what will be best to reduce EGR cycles partially or completely would be great.
  15. I appreciate the insight and help. This site claims the EGR can simply be disconnected with no ill effects, not even a CEL on 2010-2011 trucks. Can anyone verify this for me. Apparently 2012 and up trip a CEL, then over time go into de-rate mode. I'm leery to disconnect without being sure, some have had to go to the dealer to get out of de-rate mode. I'd get a programmer to reduce the EGR cycles, but it's simply not in the budget right now, probably not for a good long time. https://www.igotacummins.com/threads/7046-A-newbie-s-guide-to-4th-Gen-Cummins-Thread-Summaries-knowledge-ba
  • Create New...