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Everything posted by jltait

  1. I agree with the above, but will add that I would be suspect of the MAF sensor, considering he had a K&N in there. Most OBD tools will allow monitoring the Mass air flow. It's possible the MAF is reading low, not allowing the ECM to fuel, spool and go.
  2. @That GuyLOl, I have the same dyslexic issue, from time to time. I would say that sounds like the EGR valve needs cleaning... Did it get the 67,400 mile EGR service that is recommended? If not, there is pretty good video on youtube for it. The host name for the video is motorcitymechanic.
  3. @That Guyis it a P094D, or P049D. I don't see a P094D listed.
  4. The biggest downside of having the CEL light on: the remote start shuts back down after a few seconds of run time. IAT temp is much lower. It wasn't stabilized here, usually runs close to ambient air temps, without EGR. With EGR was usually around 125* IIRC. I still feel that the throttle is more responsive that when it was hooked up. I would like input on what programmers, and who's custom programming (possibly canned program) will be the best route to go. I have an early 2011, so ultimately I would like to upgrade to the 2011.5 and up power level, with a tow tune that is as stock now t
  5. Well, I couldn't help but try it. I disconnected the EGR valve. CEL came up as soon as I started it. Here is what OBDLink showed when I checked the trouble codes. So it would seem that the data out there that 2010-2011 trucks don't set a CEL for an EGR valve disconnected are a myth, or at least for this 2011 it is. I was pretty skeptical about that, now I know. EGR Duty Cycle stayed at zero, which I expected. I had also added a PID for "Relative Throttle A Position"(unfortunately I did not get a screen shot of value). I think that is the Throttle body the
  6. I do have OBDLink, I did a few searches and found that the newer version that I have is supposed to be on par with Torque Pro, but please correct me if I am wrong. I should be able to reset any soft codes. It would be interesting if I could figure out how to monitor the throttle blade position with OBDLink. I am now set up to monitor the MAP, so I should see the vacuum. I have already been monitoring the EGT sensors, o2 sensors, Exhaust pressure, EGR Duty Cycle, EGR Temperature, and DPF differential. I had no Idea that modules could be flashes with an OBD dongle, very
  7. I want to, but still trying to overcome my fear of setting a hard code that will require dealer intervention, even though I've been told it won't. I actually have been thinking that the solution that may prevent a ton of CEL codes, would be to take out the throttle valve butterfly, leaving it plugged in to actuate, but not restrict intake air without the throttle blade in place. Then make a restrictor plate to sandwich at the intake manifold under the EGR valve. The intent would be to limit the EGR flow substantially, but allow enough through for the system to think it's working.
  8. @That GuyI am pretty sure you are correct about 2012's and up, but according to the forum I linked earlier in this thread, 2010-2011's can have the EGR disconnected with a CEL worst case, not even a CEL best case. I just wish I could find a detailed how to. Does the EGR Valve, EGR Solenoid, and Throttle body all get disconnected, or just the valve. Also, I see different opinions on how this affects Regen cycles, some say it helps due to better burn in the cylinder, others say it will regen more due to the soot that is re-burned now going through the DPF. It's all very confusing
  9. Thanks, this has some good information, for sure! It's my understanding that 2012's will go into Limp/de-rate, but the 2010-11's will set a CEL worst case. This Is what I want to accomplish, Leave everything in place, but reduce or completely eliminate the amount of EGR going into the engine. I wish I could come up with some solid information on a way to do this without spending on a programmer. I have read that the plunger in the EGR valve can be removed. I wonder if I did that and removed the throttle valve butterfly if that would do it, or if I would caus
  10. I've been looking at this from different angles. I'm wondering if I simply removed the butterfly from the throttle valve, but left everything connected electrically, if that would substantially reduced the amount of EGR without throwing a CEL. It's my understanding that the throttle valve closes to help bring flow in from the EGR. It would seem to me that without a bufferfly to close, the engine would continue to ingest more fresh air and less EGR. Does this make any sense, or am I sounding like I'm smoking crack? I changed the oil a few hundred miles ago, and it was literally blacker than the
  11. I could probably deal with the CEL, as long as it runs normally(hopefully better). I have been using my OBDLink to monitor the EGT sensors and DPF differential, so I would be able to catch other codes with it. I think I will give that a try. Ultimately it seems I will need a programmer, so any input on what will be best to reduce EGR cycles partially or completely would be great.
  12. I appreciate the insight and help. This site claims the EGR can simply be disconnected with no ill effects, not even a CEL on 2010-2011 trucks. Can anyone verify this for me. Apparently 2012 and up trip a CEL, then over time go into de-rate mode. I'm leery to disconnect without being sure, some have had to go to the dealer to get out of de-rate mode. I'd get a programmer to reduce the EGR cycles, but it's simply not in the budget right now, probably not for a good long time. https://www.igotacummins.com/threads/7046-A-newbie-s-guide-to-4th-Gen-Cummins-Thread-Summaries-knowledge-ba
  13. @AH64ID So it would seem that reducing the amount of EGR/EGR cycles would go a long way to enhancing reliability to a level on par with 2013+ trucks?
  14. I thought I did the right thing picking up a pre DEF 2011, but after a failed EGT sensor sidelined my new (to me) 4th Gen I started doing some reading. Some of the forums say the DEF trucks (2013+) are much better for the engine than the pre DEF trucks. Is this true, if so, what are my options to ensure my pre DEF truck make it to 250-300K miles.
  15. Vehicle: Blue 4th Gen Category: 4th Generation Date Added: 2020-09-09 Blue 4th Gen
  16. Most guys with Toyo's like them. I too was looking at the AT3 XL's, but the farmers coop had the new Mastercraft AXT2's (Made by Cooper in the USA) so I have them on my 2nd gen and on the rear of my (DRW) 4th gen. So far, I am really happy with them
  17. I should add that the 2nd gen is SRW 2500 3.55 geared. The 4th gen is DRW 3.73 geared, so the DRW's probably account for a big chunk of the 2mpg difference when empty.
  18. I recently picked up a 2011 MegaCab. I 2nd what ME78569 said, It tows 100x better than my 2nd. It handles our 5th wheel much better!!! It's a couple MPG lower than my 2nd gen empty, at 16mpg (vs 18 Mpg 2nd gen) empty. It seems to be nearly the same Mpg towing, but a whole lot more comfortable doing so. Exhaust brake and integrated brake controller are very nice!!!
  19. @That GuyIt is an auto, 68rfe. It's an early 2011, built in December 2010, so it the 350hp/650tq rating, prior to the bump to 800tq
  20. Thanks guys, everything I've had in the past was pre-emission, so I don't know much about them. I did pick it up this evening. @Me78569 I think your right about the VGT, seems pretty doggy/laggy. On my old Duramax's (2003, 2005, both bought new) it was recommended to run Stanadyne Performance formula in the fuel for lubricity and cetane. I know this too has a CP3 pump, so would that be a good choice, or is there something better? I know 2 stroke oil is a no-no, with the emissions equipment.
  21. We're looking at upgrading to a 2011 Ram 3500 Mega Cab to pull our 5th wheel and provide more comfort for our family of 5 (5 including the dog). We found a decent deal with a private seller. The truck has been parked for the last 2 years. The bought a summer home and have abandoned camping. The owner said he did start it on occasion. The truck has 63,000 miles. My question is, is there anything to be leery about, or to expect to replace. I've looked the truck over well, compared to the beat junk on most used lots, it's really clean. I am already planning for all new tires and batteries.
  22. I think since you have 4x4, for hauling the type of trailer you are referring too, you'd be fine with a properly set up 47re. Get a 2wd low kit that allows 2wd low operation. Use that for maneuvering low speed, soft ground, hilly terrain. Get it setup to allow 2nd gear converter lockup, learn how and when to use it properly. A place called froehlichsuspension sells a separator plate that allows this, but I know there are other methods too. The two most irritating things I find about towing with the 47re(and 3.55 gears), trying to get my 5th wheel up on leveling ramps(which I now use low range
  23. I've personally never used a GV, but I saw where a guy performed an Allison conversion specifically because the GV he was running failed multiple times. It would take a lot of positive information from proven sources to change my opinion about GV's not being a good solution for a diesel powered pickup. I don't mean to be a burst a bubble, but I hate to see someone lay down hard earned cash for something that doesn't work for their intended use. Is your truck a 4x4?
  24. Are you equipped with 4.10's or 3.55's?. For that weight, 4.10's would be best. The factory rating is up to 12,000lbs with the 4.10 gears. 4.10 gears with a matched converter/valve body/line pressure would be needed for sure. 2nd gear lockup with the knowledge to use it wisely would be helpful. Lockup will help keep the heat down when in 2nd for prolonged periods,. But most of all, I agree with Threadzy, Dynamic is who you need to talk to.
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