jltait

I've personally never used a GV, but I saw where a guy performed an Allison conversion specifically because the GV he was running failed multiple times. It would take a lot of positive information from proven sources to change my opinion about GV's not being a good solution for a diesel powered pickup. I don't mean to be a burst a bubble, but I hate to see someone lay down hard earned cash for something that doesn't work for their intended use. Is your truck a 4x4?

Are you equipped with 4.10's or 3.55's?. For that weight, 4.10's would be best. The factory rating is up to 12,000lbs with the 4.10 gears. 4.10 gears with a matched converter/valve body/line pressure would be needed for sure. 2nd gear lockup with the knowledge to use it wisely would be helpful. Lockup will help keep the heat down when in 2nd for prolonged periods,. But most of all, I agree with Threadzy, Dynamic is who you need to talk to.

I would use very small amounts of grease inside the clutch housing. This is not a place for liberal amounts. If too much is used, it could end up on your clutch

I checked my 4x4 Tech manual, here is what it has:

If you go to the download section, you will find the factory service manuals. I have found them to be an asset in answering questions such as torque specs.

@JAG1 @ThreadzyAfter work today, I threw the meter on it again with the AC/blower on full blast. .06 v, so I'm in agreement that the AC noise is the problem. I am going to disconnect the current B+ cable to the electrical center and temporarily connect a new B+ connection to the passenger battery, then see what I get. I have a busy week, so I don't think I will be able to do the full blown W-T ground mod prior to next weekend's camping trip. I am hoping that moving the B+ will suffice for now. I installed a fuel pressure gauge earlier this week and noticed I do fall below the 10 psi threshold under hard acceleration, so I urgently need to get a Raptor on it this coming week too. I did check the TV cable adjustment, seems about perfect. No slack or preload, moves the lever on the transmission immediately with throttle movement. Thanks for the help

I ran across a new in the box Raptor 100 kit for $220, in a local ad. I am going to go ahead and pick it up. I have to do less explaining to the bride when I'm thrifty. We have a camping trip at the end of next week, and my fuel pressure drops significantly when I push the accelerator pedal hard. I think the 100 will do for now, I am pretty much stock.

I've had pretty good luck with gravity bleeding on most vehicles, including my 2nd gen. I've changed both front brake lines, but admittedly have not used this method on the rear (I have drums). To gravity bleed, I remove the bleeder completely, and loosen or remove the master cylinder cap (cover with clean rag or paper towel if you choose to remove the cap). I let it bleed through while I clean up the garage, occasionally checking/topping off the master cylinder. No brake pedal pumping required. This keeps me from having the to hunt down the bride or teen. The down side for those that are clean freaks, without the bleeders, there's nothing to slip a hose on to catch the spoils. I usually use an old cool whip dish to catch the drips, but some always gets on the floor with this method. I've used this method often, when the fluid is dark.

I run the tiny $0.97 Walmart brand (Super Tech) bottle in a fill up, it's convenient to not have an unsealed bottle rolling around the bed of my pickup.

@JAG1Following the instructions in MoparMan's video, I turned off all accessories when checking the AC voltage. But you make an important point, what is it doing when the alternator is under load. I know I was also set to Max AC, blower on full blast, as my AC is a bit week and it was a sunny day in the 90's. The 5th wheel battery is brand new a month ago, the pickup batteries are pretty much at the end of their expected life cycle. I'm really concerned about this shortening the life of my transmission, I have another camping trip planned in two weeks. The truck is fine running around empty, no converter cycling at all. I think my plan of action will be to get the W-T ground mod done, then add a manual converter lockup circuit that I've seen here. The manual lockup circuit should prevent the cycling, If I'm understanding that setup correctly? Would the batteries in the pickup being weak possible cause this? I have a OBDlink, shows consistent 14volts

I have been skeptical about my fuel gauge, so I also track mileage with my tripmeter in addition to watching my fuel level gauge. I am sure to reset my trip at every fill up, then monitor it, just like I would my fuel level gauge. I'm wondering if you could simply have a bad sending unit and ran if out of fuel?. But to answer the question, it is very possible to have an air leak at the pickup in the tank that could be fine until it gets down to a specific level, then picks up air.

I'd crack the fuel line from the lift pump to the VP44 and verify fuel pressure to the VP44. If you have pressure to the VP44 pump, then go through the vp44 diagnostics on Blue Chip https://www.bluechipdiesel.com/troubleshooting-quick-reference

@Threadzy @JAG1 AC voltage measured 34-36 milivolts (.034-.036 volts) without the 5th wheel connected, measured 40-50 milivolts (.04-.05 volts) with it connected.

I'll check the AC noise with and without the camper connected, and report back. I may try to do the W-T mod this weekend.

I have not done the W-T mod, I will double check the AC noise tonight. I do remember it being very close to what Morparman had in his AC Voltage how to video.

I have the Timbo APPS, fixed the previous Lock/Unlock issue a couple of weeks ago. Last weekend I hitched up or 5th wheel for a 3 hour trip. With the 5th wheel in tow, the dreaded Unlock/lock cycling came back, especially later on in the trip when the truck was good and heat soaked, or so it seemed. I have driven it to work (30 minutes each way) this week after disconnecting the 5th wheel, and the issue is again gone. I have previously checked for alternator noise, which was negligible. Is it possible that the charge circuit to the 5th wheel is inducing this problem, or possibly the extra heat in the transmission when towing? Any thoughts would help.

@IBMobile I did see that, but only skimmed it. Sure seems to be a lot of Airdog and FASS pumps out there that are successful, but wondering if an aftermarket mechanical lift pump would be better in the long run. I see the fuel boss isn't currently available, but the Power Driven Diesel brand units are.

No Warranty? At one time All State was supposed to be a leader in Dodge manual re-man's. An NV4500 is definitely not rocket science, but aftermarket parts can be sketchy at times.

After looking deeper into the install direction, it would seem the raptor 150 kit comes with bigger lines from the filter housing to the VP44 and from the Raptor pump to filter housing, whereas the raptor 100 kit only comes with bigger replacement lines from the pump to filter housing. To me this makes it the better deal, as long as the over capacity won't cause me any drive-ability issues, or reliability issues for the power level I am at.

I just installed the Timbo APPS a week ago, easy peasy!!!. I was getting a code for APPS (don't remember the number, but coincided with what's on Timbo web page). The Timbo APPS got rid of my code, converter lockup hunt, and the occasional dead pedal when I was driving with the cruise set. So far, very happy with the Timbo setup, I hope it works as well for you. I did check for AC leakage at the alternator prior to the investment.

Looking for input, I'm pretty much stock, but hoping to add Quad Adrenaline this winter. I do have RV275's. I won't use wire tap, just Can tuning (or so I think) . The price difference is about $40 dollars, but Airdog states that the difference between the 2 pumps is the rpm of the motor (2000 for 100, 3000 for 150). Will I see any benefit of running the 150 over the 100 with the mild mods I plan. I was thinking the lower RPM 100 might last longer than the higher rpm 150, but I know that engine longevity thinking may not apply to electric motor longevity reality.

Awesome, Thanks so much!!!

@Me78569Thanks for the feedback. Do you know if the Allison TCM and Adrenaline can coexist on the j1939 bus at the same time. The intent is to use the j1939 bus to pass data to the Allison TCM, as well as Adrenaline tuning. Do you know what source address the Adrenaline uses on the j1939 bus? if so I can verify that it won't collide with the Address used by the allison. The other issue will be determining if/where terminating resistors go. I am guessing the Adrenaline has a terminating resistor built into it?

I know this is an old Post, but I am wondering what functionality is available with an vp44/adrenaline/allison truck. Will the TPS (APPS) signal be sent over j1939?. will the torque management work? @Me78569Please see above This would be for a 2000 pickup, converted to Allison