jltait

I just want to add an update to what I found, that having the EGR unhooked just wasn't worth it for me. I'm Pretty sure it had the truck in De-Rate mode. It was a gutless pig pulling our 5th wheel up hills. I will say that mine also had a P2002, P2BAC codes set, so it's possible it was one of those were causing de-rate, not the EGR codes. I ended up feeling more confident having the EGR plugged in and no codes tripping the CEL. I'll be looking at other options eh, wink, wink.

I like this Idea for ball joint replacement. I had to heat the axle yoke quite a lot to get mine out, even with the heat it put a lot of stress on my ball joint tool and took me a good long time. This sounds like a better removal solution. I will also give a big shout out to EMF for their ball joints. I used AC Delco professionals on the driver side before I heard of EMF a short time later. The AC Delco's will probably last the life of the truck at the rate I put mile on it now, but I really like that the EMF's I put on the passenger side can be rebuilt. I'll for sure be looking at them again, when it's time to replace bj's on the 4th gen.

I've been running the Dorman Premium Chassis D1413XL track bar, for $63 from Summit Racing. I don't have a lot of miles on it....about 7500 or so, but for 15-20 minutes and $63 dollars, I've been happy with it. Get the order up to $100 and it all ships for free. When it's not loose parts, I am a firm believer that Death Wobble is caused by a combination of Toe and Cross Caster. Cross Caster is hard to fix (on solid axle pickups), an offset ball joint is about the only way. Keeping the toe close to zero, adding caster (overall caster, not cross caster), and a steering stabilizer can often times fix a death wobble issue when this is the case.

If it's front end parts that are hard to replace, then I use a known high quality part, such as Napa's premium line. If it's something I can change in 20-40 minutes, like a track bar, I don't think too much about it. I bought my truck with bad ball joints, bad track bar, and bad steering stabilizer. It never exhibited death wobble with all of those bad parts. I changed out the track bar, never had death wobble. I then moved on to the driver side ball joints, after the driver side was done, I decided to drive it for a few weeks. I ended up with death wobble, scared me half to death. I put a steering stabilizer, the old one was terribly bad, and it stopped the death wobble, but still felt vague, like it could death wobble at any minute, but never did. Once I got around to changing the passenger side ball joints, it started to feel solid, and safe like I would expect. It's my opinion that the reason it never wobbled with all bad ball joints is that the cross caster was still in check since they were all bad, but once I changed one side, the cross caster was out, and the tires were fighting side to side.

I agree with the above, but will add that I would be suspect of the MAF sensor, considering he had a K&N in there. Most OBD tools will allow monitoring the Mass air flow. It's possible the MAF is reading low, not allowing the ECM to fuel, spool and go.

@That GuyLOl, I have the same dyslexic issue, from time to time. I would say that sounds like the EGR valve needs cleaning... Did it get the 67,400 mile EGR service that is recommended? If not, there is pretty good video on youtube for it. The host name for the video is motorcitymechanic.

@That Guyis it a P094D, or P049D. I don't see a P094D listed.

The biggest downside of having the CEL light on: the remote start shuts back down after a few seconds of run time. IAT temp is much lower. It wasn't stabilized here, usually runs close to ambient air temps, without EGR. With EGR was usually around 125* IIRC. I still feel that the throttle is more responsive that when it was hooked up. I would like input on what programmers, and who's custom programming (possibly canned program) will be the best route to go. I have an early 2011, so ultimately I would like to upgrade to the 2011.5 and up power level, with a tow tune that is as stock now to protect the converter.

Well, I couldn't help but try it. I disconnected the EGR valve. CEL came up as soon as I started it. Here is what OBDLink showed when I checked the trouble codes. So it would seem that the data out there that 2010-2011 trucks don't set a CEL for an EGR valve disconnected are a myth, or at least for this 2011 it is. I was pretty skeptical about that, now I know. EGR Duty Cycle stayed at zero, which I expected. I had also added a PID for "Relative Throttle A Position"(unfortunately I did not get a screen shot of value). I think that is the Throttle body the regulates the EGR/fresh air ratio. Previously it moved around some and stayed at a relatively low value (20-50% IIRC), but after disconnecting the EGR, it stayed at 90% all of the time. So I think once the EGR is MIA, the throttle valve is commanded to full fresh air, or nearly full fresh air position. EGR Temperature was way lower as one might expect. Normally its around 200*, makes sense considering it should be staying closed. Apparently the MAP sensor I added isn't correct. As shown, that value stayed at zero the whole time. EGT sensors were in the low 600's, previously they would run low 700's, so it seems the EGT's drop a bit. I meant to check intake air temp, but forgot about that, never paid attention, or snapped a screenshot for that. It ran normal, seemed to be getting a little bit better fuel economy than previous. It did seem to need slightly less throttle to maintain speed, but maybe that was a placebo effect, lol. I plan to keep it unplugged, report back how things go with more miles. I only drove 5 or 6 testing today. Oh, and it seems the exhaust pressure was a bit higher, at least at idle. Likely since it's no longer going into the intake, and all has to go out the exhaust. Previously, at idle it seemed as though there was a little bit of a vacuum being generated at the exhaust pressure sensor, now there is a pressure. For the record, I didn't get much data on exhaust pressure prior to disconnecting, so it may not be very helpful information.

I do have OBDLink, I did a few searches and found that the newer version that I have is supposed to be on par with Torque Pro, but please correct me if I am wrong. I should be able to reset any soft codes. It would be interesting if I could figure out how to monitor the throttle blade position with OBDLink. I am now set up to monitor the MAP, so I should see the vacuum. I have already been monitoring the EGT sensors, o2 sensors, Exhaust pressure, EGR Duty Cycle, EGR Temperature, and DPF differential. I had no Idea that modules could be flashes with an OBD dongle, very interesting! I think I will continue to gather more data, then disconnect the EGR, possibly plug the crossover with the Dorman #555-020 freeze plug as outlined on CF. But this is all likely a few weeks to a month out. I drive the truck very little since camping season is over.

I want to, but still trying to overcome my fear of setting a hard code that will require dealer intervention, even though I've been told it won't. I actually have been thinking that the solution that may prevent a ton of CEL codes, would be to take out the throttle valve butterfly, leaving it plugged in to actuate, but not restrict intake air without the throttle blade in place. Then make a restrictor plate to sandwich at the intake manifold under the EGR valve. The intent would be to limit the EGR flow substantially, but allow enough through for the system to think it's working.

@That GuyI am pretty sure you are correct about 2012's and up, but according to the forum I linked earlier in this thread, 2010-2011's can have the EGR disconnected with a CEL worst case, not even a CEL best case. I just wish I could find a detailed how to. Does the EGR Valve, EGR Solenoid, and Throttle body all get disconnected, or just the valve. Also, I see different opinions on how this affects Regen cycles, some say it helps due to better burn in the cylinder, others say it will regen more due to the soot that is re-burned now going through the DPF. It's all very confusing

Thanks, this has some good information, for sure! It's my understanding that 2012's will go into Limp/de-rate, but the 2010-11's will set a CEL worst case. This Is what I want to accomplish, Leave everything in place, but reduce or completely eliminate the amount of EGR going into the engine. I wish I could come up with some solid information on a way to do this without spending on a programmer. I have read that the plunger in the EGR valve can be removed. I wonder if I did that and removed the throttle valve butterfly if that would do it, or if I would cause more harm than good. I don't mind spending a reasonable amount of money on a programmer, but I can't right now.

I've been looking at this from different angles. I'm wondering if I simply removed the butterfly from the throttle valve, but left everything connected electrically, if that would substantially reduced the amount of EGR without throwing a CEL. It's my understanding that the throttle valve closes to help bring flow in from the EGR. It would seem to me that without a bufferfly to close, the engine would continue to ingest more fresh air and less EGR. Does this make any sense, or am I sounding like I'm smoking crack? I changed the oil a few hundred miles ago, and it was literally blacker than the ace of spades within days. My 2nd gen looks as good or better with 5-6k miles, dis-heartening.

I could probably deal with the CEL, as long as it runs normally(hopefully better). I have been using my OBDLink to monitor the EGT sensors and DPF differential, so I would be able to catch other codes with it. I think I will give that a try. Ultimately it seems I will need a programmer, so any input on what will be best to reduce EGR cycles partially or completely would be great.

I appreciate the insight and help. This site claims the EGR can simply be disconnected with no ill effects, not even a CEL on 2010-2011 trucks. Can anyone verify this for me. Apparently 2012 and up trip a CEL, then over time go into de-rate mode. I'm leery to disconnect without being sure, some have had to go to the dealer to get out of de-rate mode. I'd get a programmer to reduce the EGR cycles, but it's simply not in the budget right now, probably not for a good long time. https://www.igotacummins.com/threads/7046-A-newbie-s-guide-to-4th-Gen-Cummins-Thread-Summaries-knowledge-base

@AH64ID So it would seem that reducing the amount of EGR/EGR cycles would go a long way to enhancing reliability to a level on par with 2013+ trucks?

I thought I did the right thing picking up a pre DEF 2011, but after a failed EGT sensor sidelined my new (to me) 4th Gen I started doing some reading. Some of the forums say the DEF trucks (2013+) are much better for the engine than the pre DEF trucks. Is this true, if so, what are my options to ensure my pre DEF truck make it to 250-300K miles.

Most guys with Toyo's like them. I too was looking at the AT3 XL's, but the farmers coop had the new Mastercraft AXT2's (Made by Cooper in the USA) so I have them on my 2nd gen and on the rear of my (DRW) 4th gen. So far, I am really happy with them

I should add that the 2nd gen is SRW 2500 3.55 geared. The 4th gen is DRW 3.73 geared, so the DRW's probably account for a big chunk of the 2mpg difference when empty.

I recently picked up a 2011 MegaCab. I 2nd what ME78569 said, It tows 100x better than my 2nd. It handles our 5th wheel much better!!! It's a couple MPG lower than my 2nd gen empty, at 16mpg (vs 18 Mpg 2nd gen) empty. It seems to be nearly the same Mpg towing, but a whole lot more comfortable doing so. Exhaust brake and integrated brake controller are very nice!!!

@That GuyIt is an auto, 68rfe. It's an early 2011, built in December 2010, so it the 350hp/650tq rating, prior to the bump to 800tq

Thanks guys, everything I've had in the past was pre-emission, so I don't know much about them. I did pick it up this evening. @Me78569 I think your right about the VGT, seems pretty doggy/laggy. On my old Duramax's (2003, 2005, both bought new) it was recommended to run Stanadyne Performance formula in the fuel for lubricity and cetane. I know this too has a CP3 pump, so would that be a good choice, or is there something better? I know 2 stroke oil is a no-no, with the emissions equipment.

We're looking at upgrading to a 2011 Ram 3500 Mega Cab to pull our 5th wheel and provide more comfort for our family of 5 (5 including the dog). We found a decent deal with a private seller. The truck has been parked for the last 2 years. The bought a summer home and have abandoned camping. The owner said he did start it on occasion. The truck has 63,000 miles. My question is, is there anything to be leery about, or to expect to replace. I've looked the truck over well, compared to the beat junk on most used lots, it's really clean. I am already planning for all new tires and batteries. It did start without issue when I looked at it, but It rolled over just a bit slow, so I am suspect of the batteries. I also noticed dry rot on the rear tires, but the front's seemed to be new. Still I am planning to spend the cash to replace those items. I also expect to put in a new fuel filter, change oil/filter right away. Is there anything else I should be considering?

I think since you have 4x4, for hauling the type of trailer you are referring too, you'd be fine with a properly set up 47re. Get a 2wd low kit that allows 2wd low operation. Use that for maneuvering low speed, soft ground, hilly terrain. Get it setup to allow 2nd gear converter lockup, learn how and when to use it properly. A place called froehlichsuspension sells a separator plate that allows this, but I know there are other methods too. The two most irritating things I find about towing with the 47re(and 3.55 gears), trying to get my 5th wheel up on leveling ramps(which I now use low range for) and when it has to stay in 2nd gear for extended periods without the converter locked. The coolant temperature will quickly rise as the transmission sheds heat into the cooling system when running w/o the converter locked.