cs15dah

Took my truck to Dodge today. They troubleshot it and said they figured out it was the ABS module. It's shorting out and putting a lot of garbage on the BUS line, so the truck's computer can't decipher any of the signals. They disconnected the ABS module and their scanner was able to connect and talk to every module on the BUS. Quoted me just over $1300 for a new ABS module. I thanked them, paid the $140 diagnostic fee, and left. I guess it's time to contact Module Masters and see about that 5-year warranty...

FSM has this to say: BUS FAILURE VISUAL SYMPTOM DIAGNOSIS The following visible symptoms or customer complaints, alone or in combination, may indicate a CCD data bus failure: ² Airbag Indicator Lamp and Malfuntion Indicator Lamp (MIL) Illuminated ² Instrument Cluster Gauges (All) Inoperative

Okay, fellas I need some help understanding what I'm seeing here. Over the past several drives, when I first start the truck up the BRAKE and ABS lights might stay on for a short bit (less than a minute) and then go out. Once or twice, I also caught the speedo popping up as I started to drive. Like it was at 0, then suddenly popped up to whatever speed I was going, 20-ish MPH... I wasn't really watching it, so I'd sorta see it happen just outside of my view. Then today, idling for about a minute in a parking lot, about to leave, the NO BUS message appears in my odometer, the MIL, ABS, FUEL and the AIRBAG lights are illuminated, and I lose my gauges. The truck still idles fine, and I was able to drive away, but was sluggish on acceleration and had to vary the throttle for upshifts. I get home and start troubleshooting. I found multiple threads about NO BUS and P1698 (my only code) so start going down the PCM path. I test for continuity/ground at C1 pins 30 and 31. Tested for 12V at 2 and 22(?). I can't recall the ohm on 30, so I'll have to go back out and check. While in there, I took all three connectors off and shot both the male and female sides with electronic parts cleaner. The connectors didn't look bad, but worth a cleaning anyways. The grounds were tight. In the fuse box, the bolts were all tight. No fuses appeared blown. Battery cables were all tight. The large connector in the center of the firewall over the engine appeared to be tight. Reading online, it appears if a 5V sensor on the bus isn't behaving itself, that could cause the NO BUS problem. Since I had the strange popping up speedo, along with the random ABS and BRAKE lights, I thought I'd try to eliminate that by unplugging the rear ABS sensor. So the sensor is still in the differential housing, but the connector is just sitting there. I take it out for a test drive, and I have a working speedo? I thought the truck got it's speedo input from the rear ABS module? Am I incorrect? Still have the NO BUS problem. Reconnected the sensor. While under the hood, it sounds like a relay in the ABS module is rapidly clicking, randomly. I recently had it rebuild by Module Masters, so not ruling out a problem with the ABS module. Just saying it's low on the list of culprits right now. But strange enough, when I take it out for a drive, the truck runs perfectly. All the needles work correctly. And the only light on the dash is the ABS light. I'm at a stopping point for now. So curious as to what you guys think I should check next. And, let me know about where the speedo gets it's signal from??

Largest socket I now own...

Ordered! Now gotta wait a week...

2-9/16” socket arrives Saturday. Hope to get this job finished then.

Is there anything that’ll clean up UV dye? I’ve sprayed engine degreaser, citrus degreaser, and brake cleaner under my hood. But the UV dye seems resilient.

Mine just says Dana 6500#, 3.55, and anti-spin.

Yep, that key pulled right out, after I straightened it back out again... But, I’m at a stopping point since I had to order a 2-9/16” socket. Should be here in 8 days. So I put the truck back together for now. Also, from looking online, I should have a Dana 70 rear axle? 2001 2500 auto. This should be the right seal? https://m.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/wheel-seal-rear/duralast-wheel-seal-417158/12032_240245_4988?location=

I watched a few vids on YouTube, then started to take my driver's side hub off. I pulled the axle out to discover my truck doesn't match the videos I've seen online. The vids appear to have a lock ring and a dowel that keeps the somewhat large nut from turning. Mine seems to have a piece of the metal pulled up, to create two tabs, to block the hex nut from backing out. I folded the two tabs down so I could take the nut off. But I can't seem to get any tools in there to turn the nut. I don't recall the size, but with calipers I think I measured 66 mm for that nut. Any ideas?

Never mind....

Added ~10%, so torqued to 172 in-lbs. Bolts hardly turned. Maybe just over 1/8 of a turn and up to about 1/4. Will check later this week to see how it’s doing.

FSM says 156 in-lbs. I used a Napa filter and rubber gasket when I did my fluid change. It seems that the bottom of the pan is slightly damp in one section, so fluid is very slowly leaking in one area. Before taking it apart and redoing the gasket, how much more could I torque down the bolts to try to stop the leak? 5%? 10%?

Really?? I better start prepping myself for new injectors then. I had no idea.

When I lived in ND, it groaned all the time when it was below zero. I switched over to synthetic fluid and I don't believe I ever heard it groan again, even when -40F. I'm still on my original power steering pump. I recently replaced the gasket between the pump and reservoir, though.

ModuleMasters took great care of me. Fantastic communication and fantastic job on my ABS module. Highly recommend! The 12 VDC to the housing was caused by a previous repair that wasn't the greatest. A wire came loose and shorted itself to the housing. ModuleMasters not only fixed this problem, but also replaced a few other components with better quality parts, and sealed it up really well. Very happy with the service I received.

Interested in doing this mod! Remind me again, where do I test for AC ripple? At the battery posts? Driver side battery says 0.05 VAC and passenger battery says 0.03 VAC.

Put marble mosaic up around the tub today. Left a 1/8” gap between the bottom row and the top of the tub. What goes in that gap? Grout or silicone caulk? https://www.lowes.com/pd/allen-roth-Marble-Beige-11-in-x-11-in-Herringbone-Marble-Wall-Tile-Common-11-in-x-11-in-Actual-11-14-in-x-11-14-in/1000003032

Crap, yeah. I have a copy. Didn't think to look in there. Thanks!

Hey fellas, about to replace the hub/bearing assembly in my '01 2500 2wd. I thought I've read that the new axle nut going on should be 185 ft-lbs. But I've read another source that it should actually be 280 ft-lbs. It said 185 is for 1500s and 280 is for 2500/3500s. Is this correct? Or just internet folklore? I just borrowed a loaner 30-250 ft-lbs torque wrench from AutoZone. If it's indeed 280, I'll need to find another source for a higher capacity torque wrench.

Took the Ram out for about a 15 mile drive. I don't see any fluid underneath the power steering pump, or on the ground after having it parked for about 30 mins. I wonder if the fluid I saw on the bottom of the power steering pump was just runoff from when I wiped fluid all over the tubes before sliding the hoses onto them?? Not sure, but the UV dye arrives tomorrow. I think I'll drive it a bit longer to see what happens, and keep the dye on the shelf for a future need.

Roger that; thanks!

Got the new lines installed, with filter in place. It appears I might still have a leak where the reservoir mounts to the pump. I sprayed degreaser on it all, but I ran out of light, so will check to see if I can find the source of the leak on another day. I might just replace the whole power steering pump/reservoir... Might be easier than trying to track down this leak. I tried to replace the seals as a way to avoid taking the vacuum pump down again. That was a pain. Not necessarily hard, just a pain.

So the 12 volts is coming from something inside the module? Just want to make sure I don't send it off to get fixed, then I fry it again because I didn't address whatever is causing the 12 volts to go through the casing. That spark freaked the heck out of me!!

I'm getting 12 volts on the metal housing of the ABS module. I disconnected the large plug off the top of the ABS module and now the housing doesn't have the 12 volts. Any idea what's going on here? And where to start troubleshooting?