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  1. I got a P0602 while pulling with SW #5. Is that normal?
  2. I started my trip out with SW 2. I got up to 65 MPH and set the cruise. I noticed on any slight increase in grade that the truck would downshift. No big deal, but then when the hill flattened out it would stay in the lower gear. I’d have to push the throttle a bit to get a MPH or two, then let go, for the transmission to up shift. After 100 miles, I uploaded SW 4. Now, the truck wouldn’t have to downshift on the slight grades. It just seemed to be able to hold speed better. Then on a slightly steeper grade, only if my speed started to slow it would downshift, then upshift when it got back to 65 MPH or when I crested the top of the hill. Is it just me, in my mind, with the seat of my pants “feeling?” Or is this appear to be correct, on how the Smarty works? Oh and BTW, after 610 miles, I averaged 11 MPG... The large surface area of the boxes I’m sure had a lot to do with that. On the return trip, the boxes will be empty, but I’ll still have the large surface area creating a bunch of drag. Even empty, I won’t be exceeding 65 MPH. I’m hoping without the added weight my MPG will creep up to at least 15... After unhooking the trailer and emptying the bed, I loaded SW 5 just to see how it felt. I “think” it feels stronger?? But from Mopar1973Man’s explanation, what I’m feeling is really the APPS increase? Is it safe to tow with increased timing? I might try SW 5 on my next trip. I have a stock tranny, so not going to try any higher settings. That explanation makes sense. Thanks! If I understand better now, my stock truck really isn’t benefitting from the Smarty, other than accelerating the APPS signal? Thanks fellas. I appreciate y’all breaking it down for me.
  3. I’m not sure I follow. You mean I’ll get max fueling at WOT regardless if I have a Smarty tune or not? I don’t know how to monitor engine load. In fact, I know the Smarty has a bunch of other settings, but I don’t know enough about them to make any adjustments. At least, not comfortably. I’d like to stick with just the SW loads. Maybe down the road I’ll get more confident and may start experimenting. But on these hauls (1 down, 5 more to go) I’m just sticking with the basic SW loads. It appears that the fuel maxes out at WOT when the SW setting is using timing. Is that correct? I can imagine this may be effective if trying to pass. But may not make a difference just moving down the road?
  4. New question: is the only real difference between SW 2 and 4 (and then 3 and 5) is that the latter uses CaTCHER to apply the throttle faster?
  5. I’ve read ALL the posts in this crazy long thread... Im still a bit confused as to adding timing or not, for towing on a rather stock setup. Mine’s a 2001 2500 auto 2wd. I have a BHAF and FASS 150. I’m towing about 8,000 pounds with the draw hitch, plus another 1,000 in the bed. SW 4 or 5? Or something else? I’ve got six 600 mile trips to make. The first is heaviest at around 9K. The rest should be about 7-8K. It’s also not just the weigh that I’m concerned about, but rather the very large surface area of these U-Haul boxes... I won’t be exceeding 65 MPH while hauling these. (how in the heck do I rotate this photo??)
  6. Took my truck to Dodge today. They troubleshot it and said they figured out it was the ABS module. It's shorting out and putting a lot of garbage on the BUS line, so the truck's computer can't decipher any of the signals. They disconnected the ABS module and their scanner was able to connect and talk to every module on the BUS. Quoted me just over $1300 for a new ABS module. I thanked them, paid the $140 diagnostic fee, and left. I guess it's time to contact Module Masters and see about that 5-year warranty...
  7. FSM has this to say: BUS FAILURE VISUAL SYMPTOM DIAGNOSIS The following visible symptoms or customer complaints, alone or in combination, may indicate a CCD data bus failure: ² Airbag Indicator Lamp and Malfuntion Indicator Lamp (MIL) Illuminated ² Instrument Cluster Gauges (All) Inoperative
  8. Okay, fellas I need some help understanding what I'm seeing here. Over the past several drives, when I first start the truck up the BRAKE and ABS lights might stay on for a short bit (less than a minute) and then go out. Once or twice, I also caught the speedo popping up as I started to drive. Like it was at 0, then suddenly popped up to whatever speed I was going, 20-ish MPH... I wasn't really watching it, so I'd sorta see it happen just outside of my view. Then today, idling for about a minute in a parking lot, about to leave, the NO BUS message appears in my odometer, the MIL, ABS, FUEL and the AIRBAG lights are illuminated, and I lose my gauges. The truck still idles fine, and I was able to drive away, but was sluggish on acceleration and had to vary the throttle for upshifts. I get home and start troubleshooting. I found multiple threads about NO BUS and P1698 (my only code) so start going down the PCM path. I test for continuity/ground at C1 pins 30 and 31. Tested for 12V at 2 and 22(?). I can't recall the ohm on 30, so I'll have to go back out and check. While in there, I took all three connectors off and shot both the male and female sides with electronic parts cleaner. The connectors didn't look bad, but worth a cleaning anyways. The grounds were tight. In the fuse box, the bolts were all tight. No fuses appeared blown. Battery cables were all tight. The large connector in the center of the firewall over the engine appeared to be tight. Reading online, it appears if a 5V sensor on the bus isn't behaving itself, that could cause the NO BUS problem. Since I had the strange popping up speedo, along with the random ABS and BRAKE lights, I thought I'd try to eliminate that by unplugging the rear ABS sensor. So the sensor is still in the differential housing, but the connector is just sitting there. I take it out for a test drive, and I have a working speedo? I thought the truck got it's speedo input from the rear ABS module? Am I incorrect? Still have the NO BUS problem. Reconnected the sensor. While under the hood, it sounds like a relay in the ABS module is rapidly clicking, randomly. I recently had it rebuild by Module Masters, so not ruling out a problem with the ABS module. Just saying it's low on the list of culprits right now. But strange enough, when I take it out for a drive, the truck runs perfectly. All the needles work correctly. And the only light on the dash is the ABS light. I'm at a stopping point for now. So curious as to what you guys think I should check next. And, let me know about where the speedo gets it's signal from??
  9. Ordered! Now gotta wait a week...
  10. 2-9/16” socket arrives Saturday. Hope to get this job finished then.
  11. Is there anything that’ll clean up UV dye? I’ve sprayed engine degreaser, citrus degreaser, and brake cleaner under my hood. But the UV dye seems resilient.
  12. Mine just says Dana 6500#, 3.55, and anti-spin.
  13. Yep, that key pulled right out, after I straightened it back out again... But, I’m at a stopping point since I had to order a 2-9/16” socket. Should be here in 8 days. So I put the truck back together for now. Also, from looking online, I should have a Dana 70 rear axle? 2001 2500 auto. This should be the right seal? https://m.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/wheel-seal-rear/duralast-wheel-seal-417158/12032_240245_4988?location=
  14. I watched a few vids on YouTube, then started to take my driver's side hub off. I pulled the axle out to discover my truck doesn't match the videos I've seen online. The vids appear to have a lock ring and a dowel that keeps the somewhat large nut from turning. Mine seems to have a piece of the metal pulled up, to create two tabs, to block the hex nut from backing out. I folded the two tabs down so I could take the nut off. But I can't seem to get any tools in there to turn the nut. I don't recall the size, but with calipers I think I measured 66 mm for that nut. Any ideas?
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