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  1. I got a P0602 while pulling with SW #5. Is that normal?
  2. I started my trip out with SW 2. I got up to 65 MPH and set the cruise. I noticed on any slight increase in grade that the truck would downshift. No big deal, but then when the hill flattened out it would stay in the lower gear. I’d have to push the throttle a bit to get a MPH or two, then let go, for the transmission to up shift. After 100 miles, I uploaded SW 4. Now, the truck wouldn’t have to downshift on the slight grades. It just seemed to be able to hold speed better. Then on a slightly steeper grade, only if my speed started to slow it would downshift, then upshift when it got
  3. I’m not sure I follow. You mean I’ll get max fueling at WOT regardless if I have a Smarty tune or not? I don’t know how to monitor engine load. In fact, I know the Smarty has a bunch of other settings, but I don’t know enough about them to make any adjustments. At least, not comfortably. I’d like to stick with just the SW loads. Maybe down the road I’ll get more confident and may start experimenting. But on these hauls (1 down, 5 more to go) I’m just sticking with the basic SW loads. It appears that the fuel maxes out at WOT when the SW setting
  4. New question: is the only real difference between SW 2 and 4 (and then 3 and 5) is that the latter uses CaTCHER to apply the throttle faster?
  5. I’ve read ALL the posts in this crazy long thread... Im still a bit confused as to adding timing or not, for towing on a rather stock setup. Mine’s a 2001 2500 auto 2wd. I have a BHAF and FASS 150. I’m towing about 8,000 pounds with the draw hitch, plus another 1,000 in the bed. SW 4 or 5? Or something else? I’ve got six 600 mile trips to make. The first is heaviest at around 9K. The rest should be about 7-8K. It’s also not just the weigh that I’m concerned about, but rather the very large surface area of these U-Haul boxes... I won’t be exceeding 65 MPH while
  6. Took my truck to Dodge today. They troubleshot it and said they figured out it was the ABS module. It's shorting out and putting a lot of garbage on the BUS line, so the truck's computer can't decipher any of the signals. They disconnected the ABS module and their scanner was able to connect and talk to every module on the BUS. Quoted me just over $1300 for a new ABS module. I thanked them, paid the $140 diagnostic fee, and left. I guess it's time to contact Module Masters and see about that 5-year warranty...
  7. FSM has this to say: BUS FAILURE VISUAL SYMPTOM DIAGNOSIS The following visible symptoms or customer complaints, alone or in combination, may indicate a CCD data bus failure: ² Airbag Indicator Lamp and Malfuntion Indicator Lamp (MIL) Illuminated ² Instrument Cluster Gauges (All) Inoperative
  8. Okay, fellas I need some help understanding what I'm seeing here. Over the past several drives, when I first start the truck up the BRAKE and ABS lights might stay on for a short bit (less than a minute) and then go out. Once or twice, I also caught the speedo popping up as I started to drive. Like it was at 0, then suddenly popped up to whatever speed I was going, 20-ish MPH... I wasn't really watching it, so I'd sorta see it happen just outside of my view. Then today, idling for about a minute in a parking lot, about to leave, the NO BUS message appears in my odome
  9. I watched a few vids on YouTube, then started to take my driver's side hub off. I pulled the axle out to discover my truck doesn't match the videos I've seen online. The vids appear to have a lock ring and a dowel that keeps the somewhat large nut from turning. Mine seems to have a piece of the metal pulled up, to create two tabs, to block the hex nut from backing out. I folded the two tabs down so I could take the nut off. But I can't seem to get any tools in there to turn the nut. I don't recall the size, but with calipers I think I measured 66 mm fo
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