flagmanruss

I left the forked up HF Heat Gun in the trailer on a steel folding chair (cooling down)... the nozzle was still hot enough to burn me when I tried juggling it in my weak hand. Just a brush but Surprize! My numb fingers actually felt THAT! As I sat eating my dinner... I'm remembering the switch toggle moving loosely. Good thing it's fully insulated! Probably the cheap arse switch came apart. I Googled this problem & others have the same complaint. I'm not seeing how to get it apart but I bet the switch just came apart. If I can get it out, I could try to reassemble & maybe glue the switch together. But it's outside in the dark. Tomorrow!

I bought a small enclosed trailer... 1993 vintage or so... from a friend who is getting out of re-enacting. Anyrate, she had sticky tranfer logos on the side for her group & I've been happily removing them with a heat gun... my cheapo Harbor Freight heat gun. I've done a few heat shrink tubing on electrical connectors... and more time with the extensive decal removal. Very little actual use. The switch has broken. Mid-use, I shut it off & put it on the (trailer) fender to peel the softened decal. Picked it back up & switch no workee. Piece of Shut. After the decals are removed, a quick wash with Acetone removes the glue & there's barely a shaddow of the old lettering... and I'm ok with that. It's part of it's history. But for now, I'm stuck.

Quadzilla IS out of business but many of us downloaded a selection of tunes to our personal computers. After Quadzilla folded (without notice) those who had them, shared.

I've already committed to using the Life Caulk underwater type caulk. We have successfully stopped the leaks in the horse trailer with it. I have great confidence in it with a lifetime of experience (17 years professionally)... I think the most shocking was the silicones (above the waterline & home use) which eventually failed... horribly. I almost don't care about the cost. I care about long term staying power.

Well, it sure made a difference when the plate under the rear axle was rusted into pieces, the U bolts were walking with the rear axle where ever it pleased. But that's fixed now & I still have steering wheel slopp... an inch either side of center. Without starting the engine, I can work the steering wheel & hear a clunk. I need to have someone watch while the wheel is turned. It's in that free play inch. If it's clunking, we should be able to find it.

http://www.pavementsucks.com/board/thread-Rock-Solid-Ram-Steering-Fix-Install Installation with pictures

I'm not able to get on ladders so have to rely on others... Wife has been sealing the horse trailer... cracks in the original caulk & over pop rivits (don't get me started) with underwater recommended "Life Caulk" from the Marine Supply store. We had intermittant heavy rain squalls all day yesterday... the horse trailer didn't leak. That's progress! I'm going to go check the camper where my friend replaced the clearance lights sealed with Life Caulk.

No, but I'm interested. I'd like to know what is involved in installing the upgraded steering column bushing. I have what my front end guy calls "typical" back & forth an inch either side of center, steering slop. He's not finding other parts that are out of spec?!

I had a new rubber roof put on my (old) 30' ToyHauler. I think I got a good price... I think it was $1200, white rubber painted on, work done indoors at his shop. He also caulked & repaireed a lot of questionable areas, skylights, etc. He painted the rubber up the sides of all the through roof fittings. It did solve MOST of the leakage BUT there's still a problem area in the front... roughly where the front, side & roof come together. There is an extruded trim strip that joins the roof & side & wraps/extends down the front. He roofed up & onto the extrusion & it's plastic insert (that covers the screws). He used Marine grade caulk... a lot of it... to do fittings before roofing over them. He only did the roof. The roof has been all accross thye front top & the roof isn't perfectly flat... tends to deflect water to this side joint. I'm honestly not impressed with this construction method. The extrusion has very little overlap with the siding... maybe 1/4". Just not enough. I notice newer designs have roofs molded one piece to come over the side. I'm back on it, or I should say, my friends & helpers are... we just replaced the front parker lights & used under-water marine caulk since the roof water runs over it when it rains. We're also found leaks in a very expensive all aluminum horse trailer... with a rounded extrusion at the top of the sides and large aluminum secions of aluminum roof... but a freaking caulked seam where they join & pop-rivets on the framing where the sections overlap slightly. I am furious but nothing I can do about it now. I bought an older Pace enclosed trailer (to transport my Handicap scooter)... It has a molded fiberglass front piece with a aluminum front... steel roof... I expected the fuiberglass front piece would be on top & the other componendets shingled... Under it. I was wrong. The molded piece is under, the outter piece is on top (camper caulk long gone) & now that the fasteners have slipped, a perfect scoop to bring rain in. We are going to through bolt it, instead of screws and use marine underwater caulk when we reassemble. If I buy another unit, I'll be a lot more choosy about the type of construction. I was blissfully unaware of the leakage problems inherent in the typical small extrusion roof/wall seam. I am very interested in the paint on rubber. BTW, I used the grey camper roof paint & we it just doesn't adhere to the aluminum horse trailer or camper. I'm going to disguard the remainder & possibly get more of the white rubber.

The problem is, users would have to learn when to throw a switch... not automatic. It could be programed into a computer but that adds complexity. Newer designs may be more self adjusting. All the IAT fooler does is lean the mix out once the truck is running but not waiting for a full warmup to occurr (if it does at the ambient temps). It's still within the vehicle's design parameters.

Let me review what I've learned about mice in our spaces... Poison only works if the mice have nothing else to eat... a buddy was using poison in his shop outbuilding. Tons of the good Decon stuff was disappearing. We moved a heavy machine & found the base casting with several inches of stored Decon. The mice were storing it in case they had no other food but were finding food outside & thus not eating any of it. You must secure the castle... close off the access... before poison will work. Traps are messy but can work if you find the entry point... but it you know the entry point, close it off first & only trap stranded critters on the inside. I had mice getting into my truck... I screened the air intakes, The mice destroyed the under hood insulation until I removed it as "mouse habitat". I quickly blocked mice from the interior when I learned there were drains for the cowel area behind the hood hinges which I blocked with SS pot scrubber (SS steel wool) which still allows water drainage. I went to a lot of trouble blocking the mice from the very used camper. I'll ripped out under the tub to secure around the drains, under the sinks, every through floor penitration... each step reduced the mice. We pack steel wool around the power cord entrance, every time. I was still getting mice from behind the furnace & under the stove (wife was very unhappy about nasty mouse mess in stove). In searching for access to that area, I discovered a makeshift repair where there had been a tire blowout somewhere between Calif & New England... which oblitterated the plastic wheel well liner. I removed the plastic tarp, stuffed as much steel wool as possible & fabricated my own repair piece & to hold it in. No mice since. Mice don't like mothballs but neither do humans... works for dead storage. Place the moth balls in paper cups so the dissolving mothballs can be collected when the unit is active again. Smelly dryer sheets will work though not as well. These only work in closed spaces. Don't work under the hood where air is free to circulate.

I have battled mice in the vehilces... we screen air intakes. In the outbuildings & trailers. I used steel wool around every opening through the floors & screwed down plywood patches. Also spray foam. In the end, I found blow out damage in a wheel well which I repaired. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/2886-rodent-combat/

I used to block most of the radiator on other vehicles... But it didn't do much unless the closure was total... And it also blocked flow through all coolers & such. I cut out plastic panels which I bolt though the grill. The holes in the bumper remain open. I think it creates a warmer environment without totally blocking air flow... more like a closed loop where the warmer air stays under the hood. It's not cold enough here to put the full winter front in... coming soon!

Let's see... Does it run? Something wrong mechanical... Does it turn over? Is the oil contaminated? What block is it? 53 block? Is it cracked? and rotted out body. How's the frame & things that rust out like front spring seats on the front axle (4x4) and the u-bolt plates under the rear axle (all rusted out on mine). I would use the poor condition to beat him up on the price. Really buying a pig in a poke...

Adding onto this old thread. I made it through last year's state inspection... think I've stalled quite long enough. Actually, I'm going to go to the CC after buying the Avenger this month. I'm seeing some circumfrence cracking that is unaccptable. Almost all of my driving is on-road, we get rain & snow. I thought the Michelin LTX AT that came on it (still on it) don't have very open tread. To me, a tire that's going to be run in winter ought to be a realitively open tread... but short of a mud tire. I had a set of original Cooper Discoverers on a Ford Ranger 2.2 diesel (no turbo)... tranny was unrepairable & the tires went on the wife's mini-van where they wore like iron. 265/75R16 all with E rating: Goodyear Wrangler Adventure AT w/ Kevlar Firestone Destination AT General Grabber AT2 Cooper Discoverer AT3 I can't afford to make a mistake... I'd be better served to make a 'safe' choice. It is difficult as reviews are mostly written by people who had problem... and any product made by man can fail... Sooo the second question is how does a maker stand behind their product if you are so unlucky as to have a problem. What would you base a selection on? If there a AT tire you'd add? Any of these you'd cross off?

Yes, creasote must taste like crap... unfortunately, I do know about horses that crib.

I don't think my spray paint had linseed oil base. Oil based products are becoming a specialty item. I DO use 50/50 linseed oil & thinner mix to penitrate primitive wood bows & arrows. Instances I am familiar with were all bundles, trash bags, cans with multiple oil soaked rags... concentrating heat & fumes. The combustion is part of the drying process... Note: raw linseed oil never seems to dry. I remove the rags from the buildings. Also lets any evaporating solvent go into the outside air & not into living spaces. When I had a burn barrel, I'd hang them on the rim of the cold barrel, single thickness, to dry. Once they are dry, there should be no more danger. I note the article also mentions placing them in a can with water which makes sense on a job site where they need to be removed. We are rural located... the local FD tries it's best but often can not save much of the original structure. With no hydrants, mutual aid does the tanker shuttle. We also take pains to remove wood stove ash in a metal bucket which gets well removed from the house & structures, placed on a non-combustable surface & covered. It's not emptied until we need the bucket again several days later. It's not unusual for the bucket to get HOT before it gets cold. Very few coals in the ash will do it.

http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infpai/inflinspontaneouscombust.html

I've been smelling a paint type smell downstairs (unfinished, workshop & storage) for a day or so and I've been looking for some paint or thinner can with a loose cap. My wife has been mostly gone at an event for a town group she's President of, so we've not conversed much. I thought she might have painted a sign & she thought I might have... But the odor persisted... I kept looking... I was down stairs & began feeling nauseous... I could not leave the sliding door down there open because the ramp blocks the screen. I climbed over some things to get one window open. I came upstairs & opened the upstairs slider & windows & started fans to get some air moving. I became worried the concentration was dangerous... both for breathing & possibly flamable/explosive. After some fresh air, I went down again & found an old spray paint can... had leaked through the base! It wasn't rusty or anything. It was in a small steel cabinette & the shelf had spillage but was too dry to wipe up (And disguard out the door after the can!) I emptied the cabinette & moved it... discovered a puddle of who knows what... solvent??? underneath. I mopped that up & dragged the cabinette (and the paper towels) to the slider & dumped it down the ramp to air out. (Evaporate & dissapate... away from people) Just a note... never put solvent soaked cloths, rags or tissue in a closed container... they can spontaineously combust... Recommendations are to spread rags etc out single thickness & let the solvent evaporate. I woke dear wife up, snoozing in front of TV, so my dragging caninette wouldn't startle her (& make sure she could be awakened). I really don't want to be in a house full of fumes. Pretty nasty... hopefully this headache will disappate by bed time...

That's the thing... when I bought these tires & both times I had it back to the tire store for fixing... they claimed to have replaced the valve stems. I understand getting in to the seat area is difficult but I maintain they didn't clean that area enough. They did bead seal them & that seems to have worked. I'm hearing a lot of stories about people with continual problems with older alloy rims. A buddy of mine had this problem on a Subaru... finally traded the car in. I had one tire store tell me the only fix was new rims! Cost half the value of the car! All this brought me to the point of pulling the wheels myself & taking them in. Perhaps my old school wheel & brake guy... tires are a side line... would have put it in a bay without a lift to fix. While on a trip, I picked up a nail in the truck. Tire store insisted in patching from the inside... insisted he would do it right & they'd not leak. Well, I'm home now & that tire DOES leak... very slow... but it does. Additional: Have first tire back& on the car. My Wheel & Brake guy said they had to use bead sealer around the valve. I don't care... I need it to stop leaking. I might not have gotten a 'new' car if the tires weren't such a PITA.

I'm driving my "new" Dodge Avenger... Cirrus is home & Advertized for sale. Meanwhile the freakin leaky tires are gettng fixed. I didn't realize how annoying this is but I can't sell it with a known problem (concealed damage). Yeah, I've bought vehicles with all sorts of concealed damage but I won't do it. I'm planning to consign the Cirrus at inlaws used car lot... must be fixed before it goes there. I should note that I've had it in TWICE to the place I bought these tires... FREE FLAT REPAIR... but they didn't FIX it. I think the problem is they are under time pressure... lift tied up is lost money. I took the worst leaker off myself (not tying up somebody's lift) & to my wheel & brake man today... leaking steady around the valve. I told him to FIX IT. I'm taking the tire pressures on the others... Think at least one more will need doing.

The "wheels" are actually covers. Surprizingly hard to tell. I'll try to get a picture with better light.

Here it is...

I'm impressed. I can think of several uses for it.

Are you responsible for unloading to fill? Why not a gneric engine hoist?