jag

I have the resistor just incase it's required. Yes the fan blades are cupped in the opposite direction. With clockwise rotation the air flow comes off the bottom of the fan looking at it from the fan side. The ccw fan, the airflow comes off the top. There is going to be a difference in how the air flows. Just think back then, they were still learning what works better. Look at VP, 1 year it worked, but then they discovered Common rail, it works better. Same thing with ECM, 98.5 worked, but by the time 2002 came around, it had better memory. There is always a reason for change.

My heater core is an aftermarket aluminum. My fan on high using front middle vent doesn't blow much air & when I switch to vent/ floor it's very poor. When I had my fan out, I tried all speeds. At low the fan barely moves. Just tried a air movement test between my 2000 & a 2004. They are not even close to being the same. His fan on high with just middle front vents moves air all the way to his back seat & mine barely has enough to get over the top of the seat. So I am going to install a 2006 Dodge ram fan with more blades & reverse rotation. It will fit because I have a magic wand. The only difference I can see is for the motor cooling vent & 1 mounting hole. No biggie. Will let you know in a couple of days. I ordered it from Rock $56.08 with shipping to Canada. Napa wants $180.00 up here for same fan. Stay tuned for results.

Compound turbos = singing sisters 143 F is as good as it gets. Was there a reason for the blower motors to have changed to ccw rotation at the end off 2002 & so on instead of cw rotation?

Things are getting real bad up here also. Looks like full lock down coming again. Don't forget about the DOOMSDAY CLOCK....100 Seconds from midnight. My first pension check will be here next year. Would like to see it after waiting 65 years. Everybody Please be careful.

2000-24 Winter fronts on all 4 grill panels, hoses all good with no kinks, 1 hose is longer because of the singing sisters, 190 thermostat (Quad verifies that) & opens at 194 F, system flushed when I pulled hvac box out, new anti-freeze tested to -38 F, tested vacuum pots, 4 fan speeds, all zones work for switching air flow, motor spins free, all doors sealed when tested, no foam missing, evap clean like whistle. I haven't changed the nipple. Checked temp in vents like above & my thermometer crapped out at 112 F. Will get new one & try tomorrow & report back.

Thank you^^^^^^^ The reason I ask is, when I measured mine it was only 3/8''. I have a 5/8'' barbed by 1/2'' mip I want to install for more flow. I have owned this truck since new & the heat has always been poor. I also removed my fan & counted 29 fins. I checked at a parts store for a new blower & it has 41 fins. Just looking for more heat. Do more fins mean more air movement? I removed my heater box last weekend & it is clean & all doors do what they are supposed to do. Core is only a little over a year old.

Can someone please tell me what the ID size is on the nipple on the head where the heater hose inlet is connected to. Also, is this a restrictor to slow the pressure to heater core.

Where is the proof that 320 bar helps. Wouldn't it be harder on the pump pushing extra pressure? Do not see it being pushed by REAL injector builders. Hmmm...Got a Quad & injectors at 320 bar & my VP blew up. WTF?????

I was just talking to him, & he mentioned that he had injectors put in 30,000 miles ago. I asked him what brand & if they were any bigger than stock. He said they were BD'S but didn't know what size. The shop that installed them is out of business, plus no part number on the invoice. So ends this hunt, but I have to agree with Me78569 being not enough fuel not knowing what they are. Thank you

Buddy has a 2004 - 2500 Cummins that will not make more than 28 lbs. boost. Tried plugging the wastegate (turbo is a 64 - 68 - 14) tried 2 different boost foolers, & a 20 lb. pressure test for boost leaks. Still won't go past 28. The only thing that I can find is the his MAF sensor is just plugged in & hanging there. There is no air box. Also there are no codes. We checked the MAP sensor & it is clean & not setting any codes. He says it made more boost even with it not installed before. Any ideas what else it might be? It also has a old BD fueling box with 3 settings & they don't even make a difference. Fuel mileage is way down to. He is getting tired of being waxed by 4 cylinders!

Looks like electrical problems. Your fuel pressure gauge is in perfect time with your tach jumping around with whatever else you got going on. Does it make it worse on a rough road? How does it work when you shove the skinny pedal to the carpet & hold it there? Can you replicate it in different conditions?. Your playing with fire running a Smarty with that low of fuel pressure!

Are you getting any codes from the other module? Plus the first code you got was p???? Kind of hard to figure out what to look for without the proper code thingy. More than 1 code for the camshaft thingy.

So what code number is it actually showing on scan tool? It throws a p0336 or whatever it is for camshaft doesn't really help the Dodge Doctors on here to help cure your problem, just need the correct information.

P0336 is a crankshaft sensor code, not the camshaft. Check behind your starter for a crank sensor. I know the 01's are not supposed to, but your truck just might be 1 of the lasts one that snuck bye. The dropping tach is pretty well a sure fire sign as well as funky idle. Looking doesn't cost nothing neither.

No, unless the Smarty left it behind. That's the only time if any was there some sort of recal done. Smarty has been gone for at least 2 years now. Why do you ask? Does something not add up?

265/65/17 - 30.5'' tall

Weston Shupe's injectors are not pricey considering you are getting the best. I have been running his 6x13's since July of 2015. Never have had a problem. Just got 22.6 MPG driving normal @125 kph (77.6 MPH).

I just did the same thing last year. Don't waste your time with changing all the electrical crap. It doesn't work. Does the 01 have a crank sensor port behind the starter? If it does, swap your crank & the cam gear & your done. If it doesn't have a crank sensor port, move on to better things. It's just that easy.

For gear hunting & TC lock & unlock, I would figure out which one it is first. They are not the same. Gear hunting would be related to the TV cable or the throttle valve in the valve body or a combination of both. For sure check the alternator as per Mikes instruction & do the W-T ground setup before you go any further, that way you can take that out of the equation. For gear hunting what I did was set the TV cable per Dynamics instructions & installed a Sonnax Throttle Valve kit, Part number 22771-03k. The stock valve body is aluminum & the valve is steel which wears out the valve bore & this kit repairs that, no more gear hunting! Now for the TC cycling, I installed a TC unlock switch so it can't cycle & when I get up to speed, I switch it back to factory. There you go, & they will never haunt you again. I did mine last fall when I installed a new engine & have not had a hiccup since. The switch I used was a 3 pole, that way you can command the TC to lock to if you like to also. Forced lockup will break stock shafts, so keep that in mind. The switch hookup diagram I got from CF back in 2008. This is how you do it. TC-Lockup-diagram.bmp

Didn't say Jack about setting any voltage on Timbo. The phrase "There is no voltage to check" could lead people astray. If your not checking voltage, why do you need a voltmeter? So do you set the apps according to instructions or just set it OE? 3 or 1 Mine is just about 10 years old, & if the instructions are followed to a T, you win, IF that was the problem.

Really? No voltage to set? Scan001.pdf Scan002 (2).pdf

Not to break your bubble, should have gone prothane. $67.99 for both sides from Summit.

Everything has been upgraded. I don't plan on doing this again. Here is a pic why the head needed to be replaced. The 13 white marks are cracks. The only thing I used from the cracked block was the crank. Pistons 2 & 5 had eyebrows cut into them,(strange), 9 exhaust valves were not seated & the Hamilton cam lobes were pitted so it was replace with new & lifters. Had a bad hiccup when I first fired it for cam & rings to set in. The oil galley plug above the rear cam plug blew out, but got 12 minutes of run in at 1600 rpm's before shutting it down. Has been sitting since. Tomorrow it goes in to get the trans pulled to repair the plug. The machine shop that did the rebuild is picking up the bill. Then it will be time for a break in. Doesn't sound like a VP no more.

1st tube ==VP 44 from left 2nd tube = Common Rail center 3rd tube == VP/CR far right 2001 Cummins engine, with a 2000 crankshaft & a 2006 Common rail head.

Alright then, all the above parts are installed. Needed more room so I removed the fender for standing room. This is whats left after the update. Did a little something to the valve cover seeing I had 2. The compressor race cover is 5 1/2", so I had to update the intake with a 5" x 5 1/2" silicone bushing & 5 1/2" 45* degree elbow. Replaced valve seals with top hat & set valves to 8 & 16. Also needed a exhaust flange to go from 4.62" to 4" because of the 87 turbine wheel & the 1.10 race housing & last, an adapter to go from the he351 12cm turbine housing to my hx40 hotpipe.