Gamble

So, aside from the PM I sent you the other day I hadn’t really had a chance to sit down and do an update. With that said, you have been spot on so far. When I sent you the PM, it was because of this.(pic) the boost cooler wires had corroded and broke, not just one but 3 of 4 had corroded and broken. Both white wires were broken inside the connector. With that said, this is not an off the shelf connector not is it off the shelf terminal pins that I could simply replace. In the interim of that, I have disconnected everything and while I haven’t been out and about, the truck is I believe is performing fine. I have made two phone calls to edge and the second one rendered better results than the first and I should have the parts I need to fix it within a few days. Once I receive them I will make my needed repairs and update. However, what I PM’ed you about is still on the table. Lol. Thanks again for your help.

Looks like I do have code P0237. I have the checklist saved somewhere I believe. I will find it and follow it through. I’m sure it’s the original MAP sensor and maybe it’s tired. A little trouble shooting will tell the tale. Thank you sir.

Hello everyone, been quite a while since I have been on the site. Mostly just life dictating where my time is to be spent. With that said though, I have come to ask for the wisdom you guys have and get a little guidance on what I hope and believe to be a small issue. I literally drive my 99 a couple times a month at best, maybe 5-6 times startup and move somethings around on the property. So maybe a month ago I started it up to move a trailer and immediately Knew I had a busted brake line. No big deal, ordered a new set, waited to have time to do it and repaired them. Fast forward to Tuesday and I decided to get it out for a little drive to really check the brakes and just let it run. This was less than enjoyable as my truck did not perform normal....felt very much stock if you will. I am not sure if I even still have a sig on here so here is a brief run down. 99 5 speed valair clutch AFE blade runner intake BHAF DAP 125’s Assassin fuel pump twin filter setup edge drag COMP 5x5 I haven’t checked for boost leaks yet, but it doesn’t drive that way. It drives as if it isn’t fueling. I’d expect a lot of black smoke if it were a boost leak, but it’s quite the opposite, usually I have a little prior to 10lbs and now it’s nothing, no haze, no power. Just feels stocking. It still fuels to above 2700, but has no grunt doing it. Only seeing about 18 lbs of boost, and while I can and do avoid it, I have always been able to see 35+. 20-21 lbs of fuel pressure is still there and consistent. the fuel in the truck is probably a mix of up to 6 months old but I drained some from my dual filter setup and it appeared just fine. I’m sure I’m forgetting pertinent info but I’d be happy to hear suggestions and thoughts. As always this is the place I trust for those. thanks guys. Brian

Mine went +/- 175k before I went up in size. I still have them and they had no issues when I pulled them that I am aware of anyway. I didn't have them tested though.

Lol. The same place you put fuel in it. I usually just wrap/stuff a rag in around the hose and place it in the fuel inlet and turn it on. Won’t take long at all to pressurize the tank. Also, while injectors could be causing you an issue, I don’t for see that being your cause for reduced fuel pressure, as you are reading pressure pre injection event. I could see your truck running poorly from the injectors, but I don’t think they would pull your pressure down like that. Does your pressure drop the same at idle and just tapping the throttle or only under actual drive load? I think your LP is giving up the ghost.

I didn’t have an in tank pump either, mine was originally up by the filter housing. I simply disconnected power to it, and left it. the only thing in tank was the fuel level float and basket. I don’t recall all the steps to it but basically I removed the factory pickup tube and replaced it with a 1/2” ID draw straw. There is a billet aluminum adapter that goes on top of the original mount, you then attach your outlet line to it accordingly, it can be spun 360* to allow you to run your lines as you see fit. Kinda the same for the return, just on a smalller scale. I will try to find some pictures if I have any. If not, I’m going to be pulling my bed off here soon to do some cleanup work and check all my lines for abrasions and I will take DK e pics then and post them. Somewhere on here and CF I did a review of the assassin, but I don’t recall if those pictures were in it or not.

I am not using the hard lines, I ran new 1/2” line all the way forward and back for the return. My dual filter is setup outside the rail and is only visible either from a distance or as in the picture standing downhill of the truck. I built a bracket that I mounted to the rail, and then the filter bracket mounts to it. It allowed me to put it up where I wanted it, thus keeping fuel lines in better locations. Eye level would be about mid door to get this part of the filters to show.

Negative, Goes: Tank>dual filters>assassin pump>factory housing>VP. I would rather clean the fuel before it goes through the pump and after, even though I haven't had any debris issues.

I have the DTT Assassin pump and have ran it for about 4-5 years I think. I just added a rail mount dual filter setup this past year, mostly because I finally found it hidden in my shop and figured why not. I had never had any trouble with filtration just using the stock filter setup prior to the install.

I think this question got. overlooked somehow, or maybe I overlooked the answer. I do not know nearly as much about this stuff as some of these other guys do but believe you would hate trying to spool an SXE on stock injectors. It would be a slow process to say the least. The metaphorical cart before the horse comes to mind. Here are the issues I see that my .02 feels need to be addressed long before a charger or parts for a charger are purchased. 1. Over the years, and through 3 different trucks, (all 3 of which I have done some sort of tuning or mods too) I have read a lot of stories were it seems folks jump straight from the shallow end to the over their head end of these trucks..... On the cummins forum or power stroke nation thats one thing, but here I feel like we are a bit more friends and family oriented and no one here wants to see someone have issues with their rig. The caveat to that is the people here are so good, and so knowledgeable, sometimes the answer you get is a direct answer to the question you have rather than maybe the answer you need to hear for the things you are overlooking. Maybe you should perform the needed supporting mods first and see how you like the change. I may be off base here and/or overlooked something while reading so I apologize if I did. I by no means intend any ill will towards you but rather, want to see you happy with an end result rather than frustrated with a current situation you put your self in. 2. I see in your sig its on the truck but I read in the first couple of posts you have a FASS going in soon. Is it actually installed on the truck an running? IF it is not, you will have to have a better fueling system in place prior to making any further HP jumps. IMO. 3. Do you run the EJWA on low settings or what? Even on stock injectors I find it hard to believe your clutch is going to hold up very long on much over a 60 hp tune unless you are driving miss daisy all the time. You will have to have an upgraded clutch for the type of power you are wanting to make. 4. To answer your above question: If you do not have the injectors to support the turbo you want, you need to do that 1st, not second, larger turbos spool off of fuel and stock injectors just aren't going to cut it here. 5. Do you have gauges to see what is going on with your truck so you know if there is an issue with fuel pressure or EGT's. These are a must if you do not. I agree with Me78569. A phone call to DAP is in order for you. I am not sure what kind of funds you have to throw at this endeavor, but sometimes its a lot easier to spend a touch more money and save a lot more time than save a little money and waste a lot more time. For the record so you know why I am saying what I say. I am somewhat in the same boat as you.... just a little closer to the falls. I can easily run my HX35 out of its map if I really get into it, but I very rarely ever do that, and for the most part, my EGT's are easily manageable even towing upwards of 8-10k on 5x5. My truck tows and runs fantastic, however I am starting to stash away money to go with the SXE 62/68/12 or 14 just for peace of mind and something different to me as I have ran my current mods for years. Other than swapping out to an HX40 downpipe and or clocking it a little, the SXE should be relatively a drop in turbo that I can easily clear 450 WHP with the mods I have. I love to tinker on my truck, but when I need it, I need it. I don't want to be spending two weeks (if it goes good) getting all the needed stuff to work out with the HE351 ( i have considered it many times).... I have two projects in my shop right this minute I haven't had the time to complete. I don't need another one. I am sure I overlooked something else I intended to put in here and again I don't intend to offend you, just want to see you happy at the end of the ordeal. Good luck and by all means, fill me in on what I overlooked.

Well, I'll start this party I suppose and throw my .02 in here......after Mopar1973man that is. If I read your post correctly. You are attempting to place a secondary fuel pump in the system in case your original pump goes down I assume. This could be really complicated when getting into the head pressure vs distance vs line ID diameter, vs etc.etc. While I am not familiar with the type of fuel pump currently used on your motor home. In my head I think the easiest thing to do would be to purchase an inline flow thru type pump like this one. https://www.amazon.com/Airtex-E8090-Universal-Solid-Electric/dp/B000DN7VLK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1513374895&sr=8-1&keywords=airtex+E8090 This particular one may not be large enough for what you need but there are lots of different sizes. I am sure you could find the GPM flow of the factory pump on the motor home and match it. If you run an inline flow thru pump, it won't hinder your current pumps production and could easily be used via toggle should you need it.

I Its not leaking from the housing itself, the large o ring is fine. Its leaking from around the fuel heater. The 5/8"IDx3/4"OD x 1/8 round stock o ring goes bad and it begins to seep fuel out and around it. It will get slightly worse as it goes on until fixed or replaced. I have the factory 99 housing on mine, apparently the crappy one. I know exactly where mine is coming from. You can wipe the fuel heater off and watch it get diesel soaked again. Also. is this the kit you have? https://www.genosgarage.com/product/dodge-ram-cummins-replacement-fuel-filter-cannister-gg-fc98599/360 Thanks everyone for your thoughts so far.

Two part title because 1: I have been MIA from the site for quite a while and have now returned. Not a big deal. but Its good to be back as I have only looked around some in the last few months I think. Haven't contributed or posted anything in a while. 2: I just found out my leak at the fuel filter canister has RETURNED also. Now I have read numerous threads on this subject, but seems that no one has the same extending solution problem as I do So I thought I would ask your all's opinion on fixing vs replacing vs burning to the ground. JK on the last one. I replaced the o ring on it last year or maybe slightly longer. It has apparently given way again. I am torn on keeping the housing at all as I have a CAT filter and separator set up on my truck as of about 6 months ago. The catch is I didn't have the CAT setup when I switched to the Assassin fuel pump and therefor, my fuel lines run through the factory setup also and I do not have a big line kit from the factory filter housing to the VP. One other issue is that my fuel pressure sensor is connected on top of the factory fuel filter housing. I know this seems as though the simple answer is to just replace the O ring again and move along. I am only torn on because I feel that I should go ahead and install the big line kit to the VP 44. I can do this two ways, extend the line I have and go to the VP44 (post CAT filter) or go from housing to VP44. In addition to this, if I delete the factory housing all together I then have to find a means to receive fuel pressure. I am sure there is a handy dandy little trinket out there for this purpose I simply don't know about yet. This is really my only major concern as I am aware I don't really need the fuel heater. Then there is the option of one of the many aftermarket fuel filter setups. Such as GDP's or Geno's stuff. I really do like the idea of keeping a filter there, despite having the CAT filter setup, I am a sucker for extra filtration, I have no desire to purchase another VP44, once was enough. So what would you all do. I am very open to options and I am sure I am overlooking something obvious. Thats why I asked you all. Thanks 1 replace o ring and roll on. 2 replace housing with a new housing with both water separator and heater 3 replace housing with water separator but no heater 4 replace housing with heater but no water separator 5 block off plate for fuel heater and roll on 6 remove factory setup all together and rely on CAT filter for both filtering and water separation. Which also requires a different means to receiving fuel pressure signal. 7 burn it to the ground.

haha you must feel like a pretty lucky guy not to have any projects... Technically I have a couple of projects, they just aren't moving fast enough to make a worthwhile post about them. lol. I may have to start one anyway....

And this is why this site really is the best diesel site on earth.