Gamble

^^^^^What he said. Let me know what you find out. I am most likely looking for some RV275's myself, but I wouldn't be opposed to a slightly larger injector. I think 100's would be as large as I would go though.

Yes, you could turn it down if you wanted to. The main thing is just knowing that your providing enough fuel to the VP44 to keep it safe. The principle behind the adjustment factor is for those that have other fuel adders in their system to be able to dial out some of the smoke pre boost. The edge does pre boost control until the snail reaches 10lbs of boost. It then reverts back to normal fuel operation (100%) past that. As long as you know your VP44 is receiving 14lbs or more of fuel pressure (at least most of the time anyway.) I think you could play with the options and see what works best. Then let me know because I think I am going to attempt to locate some injectors myself soon. Good luck

Haven't really ever checked. Most of the stations around here stop the pump at $100 or $75 so when I go to refuel at 1/4 tank I usually just put whatever the pump will let me, and that is never enough for a full tank. I will have to try it and see. This car hasn't been on the track yet, but it is a drag car, he sold its twin which was a road car. I am not sure what class this one will fall in now, but if there is a "NASTY FAST" class it should be a competitor to say the least. At one time I believe he held the record for fastest stock block 350z, so he knows his stuff when it comes to these cars. - - - Updated - - - Oh and I now have tow mirrors.... Will post a picture of the update tomorrow.

Low boost fuel means the amount of fuel delivered prior to the truck making any boost at all. Unless you have injectors to provide some fuel prior to boost it would be a bad idea to ever turn that down below 5 IMO. Each mark down from that is a percentage of full fuel. So in essence your taking away fuel that could be protecting your VP44 from death. The skinny pedal is a much better way to prevent smoke, and for that matter, this box doesn't smoke much anyway. There are specific numbers for the percentage I just didn't look them up.

I took it pretty easy on speed, the trip down with an empty (bouncing trailer, I hate arkansas) I ran about 60-63mph. Loaded up I ran between 69-73mph. I don't have cruise on this truck so the variance is just from having to maintain foot to pedal and eye to cluster for 37 hours. LOL

So I have been crazy busy for the last few months and aside from trolling a little I haven't been on the forum much. I did however complete a task worthy of the forum. (for me anyway) Thought I would share my experience. I was called on by a friend to travel from central KY to Austin TX and pick up his race car and bring it back. I haven't ever made that long of a journey for purposes of hauling/towing something, but I thought it would be kinda fun and I like to put the ol girl to work on occasion. I don't know what my weight was, but it wasn't bad. I made the trip in a total of 37 hours. Used 120 Gallons of Fuel and traveled 2140 miles. So I averaged 17.833333333333333333333333333333333333333 miles per gallon. I think there were a few more 3's on there but you get the point. Yeah I know thats not great fuel mileage but I was pretty happy since I towed the trailer there and back, have 4:10's and heavy a$$ 35's. Truck did absolutely fantastic, no issues at all, and I can say I have 100% percent confidence to do whatever task is needed out of my truck. And for those wondering, maintained 20-21 psi from the Assassin Pump the whole trip with no hiccups. I did realize there are a few things that I would like to have. 1. RV275's or similar (just cause I want them mostly) 2. Tow mirrors (trailer was hard to see back there at night.) Ordered Tow mirrors yesterday and will have them installed later this afternoon. 3. Taller gears: may start looking into locating some 3.54's for the truck. I can only imagine how slow the boat would have been without the 35's on there for some ratio help. Just thought I would share.

[TABLE=class: page, width: 100%, align: center] [TR] [TD][TABLE=class: tborder, width: 100%, align: center] [TR] [TD=class: alt1, bgcolor: #F5F5FF]I thought I would throw out my experience with the setup and the company. I ordered an Assassin Pump from DTT several months ago and I knew it would take me a little while to receive as DTT informed me of a few changes taking place with the pump. All the same I was extremely anxious to get my hands on the pump. Being a common logic/mechanical thinker I felt the mechanical pump would be a great addition to my system for its simplicity and performance capabilities. I received my pump and I was immediately impressed with the build quality of the pump itself. Nothing on this pump feels cheap, there is no free play in the tolerances of the pump gears, shaft. Really the only parts to potentially go bad are the two small shaft seals, which I believe could be locally sourced and replaced very easily. Did I mention the pump is anodized blue and is very appealing to look at even though no one really ever sees it, you will enjoy putting it on and looking at it. On to the good stuff. As previously stated, I am a mechanical person, and I pretty much do everything to my rig on my own. This was no different. I ordered a complete kit as I don't have the time to source all the fittings and hose to do the job. I was placed on hold for a couple days as there was a fitting that I did not receive, however a quick phone call had one on the way immediately and I thank DTT for the prompt response to service. My actual total time of install was about 4-5 hours. I didnt work feverishly to complete the task as it was my first fuel system install and I wanted to understand the system and do it properly. I began by mocking up the pump onto the oil pan. For those that would be concerned about knocking this pump off, forget about it, I would almost guarantee a higher chance of knocking off an airdog or fass than this. Especially in my case as I have a PSC steering brace on my truck, making it dang near impossible to hit the pump. The pump is simple to mount, and simple to adjust for belt deflection. Its a two piece mount system, with the pump being able to slide a small amount of distance to determine tension. The belt requires very little tension due in part to the massive cross lug design of the belt and pulleys. I carry a secondary belt in my truck but so far the current belt shows no signs of wear or slipping. The installation of all the hose is kinda your own creation as you can choose what direction you wish to run it within the engine bay. The fittings all seem to be of high quality. All the same I used a permatex thread sealant that is not susceptible to deterioration due to contact with fuel. The worst part of the install is dropping the tank to install the draw straw system. The draw straw I received is the one from Vulcan installing back within the tank module. Pretty simple and very effective. I have been down to just below a quarter tank and haven't had any issues with running out of fuel, and I shouldn't as the straw is the exact same length as the factory straw setup. The pieces for the module are nice cut pieces that fit well. Providing a larger 3/8 return line back to the tank in addition to the line already returning from the VP overflow. Simple and effective setup. Once I got it all installed, I prepared to fire up the truck. I removed the inlet pump hose, pressurized the tank and in a half second I was loosing gold out the inlet hose. Connected the inlet hose, removed the pump from the mount. (2 bolts), and cracked the lined at the filter housing. I placed a drill on the shaft and cranked it up, and again, fuel was almost immediately expelling from the line. Buttoned up the lines. I cranked the truck for about 15-17 seconds and she fired right up. I immediately checked for leaks, I had one at the TEE but only took a brief second to lock down. No more leaks from anywhere else and so far none there after. I then began to check for proper pressures. At idle, the pump is pushing out 12-14 psi depending on cold or hot fuel. Upon touching the skinny pedal, PSI jumps to 19-20 instantly. Under WOT, pressure hangs tight at 20-21psi. So far I haven't had any issues with it maintaining pressure. My truck starts faster with this setup than it did with the factory pump. After I replaced my VP a month or so ago I had been having an occasional long crank session. Since the assassin install I haven't had a single start longer than 1 second. I really like the fact that the pump increases pressure under throttle rather than losing pressure. I have not had any experience with the airdog, fass or raptor, but I know they lose rather than gain. The other thing I like is that even at idle, just blipping the throttle pushes it well above the needed 14 psi to cool the VP. During the winter, while the truck is high idling, it will also be above 14 psi, with no issues. I like the fact that there are no fuses to blow, its highly unlikely the gears are going to self destruct, and the belt can be replaced with only one wrench. I intend to purchase a CAT filter kit from Vulcan here soon and install it, eliminating the stock housing kit, even though I haven't had any issues, I want to protect the pump from debris also, so I will pre-filter the fuel with the CAT system, (and its just plain better filtration). I just thought I would share my experience with this pump and invite anyone looking to replace or upgrade their fuel system to give this pump a try. Any and all questions I had were promptly answered by DTT(Stefan). All in all I couldn't be happier with my purchase and the performance it has delivered. 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I have had my truck running for a total of about 30 min since the assassin pump install. (just been busy and haven't finished up the other things I wanted to do) but during the 30 min of running, it idled right at 15 psi, and upon giving any throttle it jumps up to 18-19 psi. It is a regulated system for 17psi, but much like all the other systems it is a spring that controls it so the 18-19psi didn't come as a shock, nor as unwanted. 18-19psi is constant all the way up through the rpm's. I will give further input once I get it out on the road and see if it acts different under load.

I just made a trip to lowes and picked up all the stuff I needed to do this project. I will get it put together tonight when I get home and installed in the morning.

That is awesome.

How could you not like Yuengling? And to compare it to Platinum! Even if you don't like it, thats just wrong. In all reality, I haven't ever been a beer drinker, just hadn't ever found one that I liked. I tried so many different imports (both local and import imports), local brews, big brand beers and their derivatives, all with a NO GO. I tried Yuengling traditional lager and actually look forward to having a beer now. I have only had the traditional lager and the lager light, and really like both of those. I have been unable to locate any of the others, but as long as I can get one of the two traditional style lagers, I don't mind. For those that do not like Yuengling, whats your recommendation, I am open to try new beer, I may like it more and throw rocks at Yuengling, its hard to say. I'm only brand loyal because I like it, not because I was taught it was the best. (Not accusing anyone of that, just making a statement that I am open to change)

That sucks. It's all around here, just not actually here. But I frequently visit family and friends in the neighboring states and always have extra to bring back. I just had it on tap from down in tenn a few weeks ago. Mighty fine.

Thanks John. I think I will just swap out the 14cm housing onto the current charger I have. It has less play than the non gated charger x2 in the garage. I suppose I will sell the two non gated 12 cm's here soon.

I just finished working on my truck (for today anyway) and am currently partaking in a nice fresh Yuengling. Thats good beer.

I was just curious if anyone is running a non gated turbo? Does not have to be an HX35, I just happen to have a non gated with a 14cm exhaust housing. I cant decide if I want to swap the 14cm onto my gated or just throw on the non gated turbo and give it a whirl. I know running a non gated housing requires more attention to the boost gauge and skinny pedal control. I however do not have much done to my truck and doubt it would get to its upper limit anyway. As usual, thanks to all for reading and replying.

I am a firm believer in the kevlar/ceramic single from Valair. It is underrated at 450/900 I think. I spoke with Gary (from Valair) directly several times and he informed me they have held a considerable amount more than that. It has good characteristics and isn't to grabby for a daily driver, And its affordable to purchase. I had my flywheel resurfaced and haven't had any issues doing so. You just have to have a good reliable place to do it. The Dual Disc is a great set up from either of the big 2 companies but for what you have done it is overkill in my opinion. Good luck.

I'm just glad to be a part of it all and meet good and knowledgable people along the way. The internet is full of BS and sometimes its hard to siphon through it. Websites like this make it much easier and make the trials less of a pain to deal with. I had an academy instructor tell me once "Pain shared is pain divided, Joy shared is joy multiplied" Thats stuck with me and I think it applies for most every aspect of life, especially working on vehicles!

So will the old style fuel canister hinder the flow to the VP that this pump will be putting out?

Well, I got about half way through the install today, had to locate a couple of things (male to male connector and some diesel proof thread sealer). that put a hindrance on the completion. Not to mention that I was attempting to do this in my driveway. Stefan left out one connector in the parts bag and I was unable to locate one before all the viable stores closed. Hopefully I will get it all finished out tomorrow day.

I agree with the above statements, your not going to gain anything other than maybe a slightly lower EGT and thats debatable. The 04.5 already have 4" piping, the 03-04.5 are 3.5" either way you could just straight pipe it and get a decent sound without spending the extra cash. On the flip side of that, I love listening to a good sounding truck and I purchased a 5" for mine just because of that reason. Its all about personal preference. I am not sure how promotion of vendors goes on this site, but shoot me a pm if interested I will tell you who has the best deals right now.

Let me start here then. I had been looking for awhile at different pumps trying to decide what would suit my needs and still be affordable. The more I read the more I dreaded purchasing an electronic pump. Seemed like I read almost as many bad outcomes of pump failure, wiring failure, repeated fuse issues, etc as I did good instances. It got me to thinking about finding a mechanical pump that didnt require any one these things to function. My search led me to the Assassin mechanical pump from DTT. It was designed by Stefan, built to his spec VIA CNC Billet material. The pump itself mounts under the front of the oil pan using two of the front bolts. It utilizes a belt driven gear to provide increasing Pressure to the IP as rpms go up as opposed to the opposite affect from most/all electrical pumps. Idle PSI should be around 14-15 and using the regulator for adjustment, go up and hold around 19-20 psi as the rpms increase.The kit can be purchased with or without the necessary fittings/lines/etc. or bought as a whole. I chose to buy the complete kit. It comes with 3/8 ID lines, all the needed anodized an fittings, which I think are a -6AN. The pump uses a small billet crank attachment for the belt to attach to. The pump requires very little tension to function and only has two seals to fail, which can be replaced in about two minutes from what I was told by Stefan. I am sure there is more info that you want and I will attempt to provide it. Hopefully I will get this installed later today when I get back up and see how it does.I believe Glacier has a similar set up and maybe one other company.

Fair enough. I just picked up a fleet guard filter to change it to. If I do the swap it wont be for a while, but I thought I would check into it also. Oh and a big thanks to you to Dripley as you were the first to reply to me on the cumminsforum when I had my initial VP44 issues. - - - Updated - - -

That just made/destroyed my day all in one go round.

So I've been reading about swapping over to the later 2nd gen "01-02" fuel canister/filter. I am curious just how much better the later model canister flows compared to the original? Will the current filter set up that is on the truck keep my fuel pump from adequately fueling the injection pump? Thanks.

Hey all,Let me first say thanks to Mopar himself for having such extensive knowledge and devotion to the cummins engine amongst other things. Hello to everyone else and I will and do appreciate you answering and humoring all the many questions your going to answer for me. I am a member of the cumminsforum also and avidly read on both sites in efforts to learn as much as I can. Mike was kind enough to chat with me for over an hour on the phone a few weeks back to help me with some VP44 issues. His trusted judgement cost me nearly a grand to replace my VP but the truck fired right back up, and for that I thank him again. I just received a billet mechanical fuel pump for DTT and I am anxious to get it installed and get the fuel pressure up where it needs to be. Looking forward to chatting with everyone and hopefully gaining some valuable knowledge along the way.