YeaImDylan

So towed yesterday with regular turning radius in both directions! Thank god I decided to make the attempt at fixing it (and succeeding). The bent pitman arm probably didn't help anything but I got the 3rd gen drag link to connect to the arm when the box was centered. Steering wheel is currently off but I was much more concerned with gaining full radius pulling a trailer. Had to adjust the sleeve quite a bit to get it to bolt in while the box was centered, unsure why I couldn’t get it to bolt in while centered the first time I attempted. I had even screwed in each tie rod end a few days prior but couldn’t get the extra 1/2in to connect to drag link!

About to be in business much better than before.. got the drag link in and picture before hand, I gained a bit closer to center on the pitman arm. The old arm was also bent! Posting pics now Left is old one

Probably 5 or less MPH, turning left but going into the straight if a drive thru, hit the concrete cylinder pedestal thing straight on. Steering wheel was probably closer to being straight. T style conversion was done myself. Shop aligned everything and it drives straight now, just still not having for left lock to how it should be. When I tried to center it with the linkage undone and steering box straight I couldn’t get the drag link in. About to take the pitman arm off now and reinstall. The end of the drag link near where it connects to the tie rod does contact the end links now on full right, but I believe that’s because I’m able to go like 3 full turns to the right from center yet only 1 1/2 turns to the left before I hit lock

@Tractorman appreciate the reply! So I hit the pedestal with the passenger front tire and had lost the left turn radius then. Figured my tie rods were just bent but still had the issue after the alignment and new T style tie rods. I’m thinking the sector shaft on the box is fine but maybe the force moved the pitman arm? I feel that’s the only thing (besides the box) that could have gotten messed up and causing the lack of left turn radius. I’ll go under there today and pull the arm off and see if it’s damaged and then when putting back on ensure I’m in the middle for when I put the drag link back on. Edit: yes the steering wheel is currently straight after the alignment Uploaded some pics. I think it’s even going farther than what it should be able to do when going right. Pitman arm definitely needs to be turned I’m assuming. The front pics are from lock to lock basically (without someone in the cab holding it after it goes back the other way slightly.)

Hey all, back again! So a few weeks ago, accidentally bumped into a concrete pedestal thing. Toe was knocked out badly and lost like 30-40% of my left turn radius at lock. Figured I bent tie rods and bought a T style kid. Got everything bolted up and aligned at the shop and I still have the left turn radius issue. I’m thinking maybe the force of that bump moved my pitman arm on the splines? And not it’s off? Without the drag link connected I have the standard 4 or 4.5 (whatever redhead steering gear is) turns from lock to lock. Trying to get some ideas as I have to tow Wednesday and would like maximum steering to the left beforehand! lol. Hoping maybe the pitman arm just got moved somehow but am open to other things to check that I may be able to fix quickly today.

Is this to essentially relocate the VP computer to a spot that doesn't get as hot??

Thanks for this! I will replace that main fuel line! Also thanks for the warranty hack lmfao my issue is now tho I need a damn VP top cover… blue torque sealant I can get my hands on for the bolts tho. Old vp p/o had on with stealth tap and I wanted my core charge back so I had to tap this vp and put the shiny new cover on the dirty *** hotrod pump I had lol

No other work, just the VP along with oil change cuz it dumped 2 gal of diesel into the crank case 🤬 The fuel line is a bit old and there was a visible crack on the outside rubber BUT no leak under pressure.. so I don’t think air would get in there. I don’t see any leaking lines connected to the VP either (like return and whatnot). I’ll check the back of the head banjo bolt and see if it’s moist. Last time I had that come loose I had hard starts but none of this weird stutter I get after replacing VP.

Hey all, title says most but will go into more detail. sometimes on startup, the engine will start, then die for half a second and come back on. Like if you were to turn the key off while running and quickly turn it back on. This happens occasionally and then a few weeks ago, it would start and then die after a few seconds. It did this a few times before it was just cranking. Finally got it started and it ran fine. This has all occurred after my o Reilly vp pump replacement … and I’m definitely worried it’s the pump. Any insight is appreciated!

That’s crazy you don’t get any boost til 55mph! Thought I’d update you all though. Got my tunes re done for the new pump, it’s weird getting used to not as much low end power like the HO hotrod pump had. Timing was a difference til I got the new tune for the SO. Tow tune worked great, I pulled a 36ft 10k camper on the ball (I don’t wanna do that again lol unless it has the stabilizers) and once I figured out where to have my RPM’s when going up hill, I was pushing 25psi and staying at 55/60mph and EGT’s according to my max tow gauges were at 1050-1100. Sometimes they’d spike up if I didn’t have the momentum going up initially but I’d pull out a bit and they’d go down fast from 1300*. Truck pulled well I thought, most I’ve ever pulled so far. Braking was fine and I did use the controller manually at times, but I have the 6 speed so I’d sit in 5th all the time and if needed drop to 4th on a large downward hill.

Gotcha. I just find it odd with this now non hotrod pump that I’m not having enough fuel to spool. I believe wire tap is working since I have 12v at the nut on the cover.. I believe it leaked out the edge both times. No visible tears tho. The outside wall where the seal buts up had marks in it the first time I replaced the seal and we put loctite around it. I have yet to get a mechanical gauge on there, hoping to this evening tho while I also fix my brake controller.

Update, Truck is back on the road! So, this solved obviously the big problem but also my weird sporadic fuel pressure reading ONLY at 1850 sustained rpm, I think the overflow valve was sticking or something BUT, one thing I noticed on my max level daily tune from TJ, no smoke… and I have 12v at the tap ignition on. I know the hotrod pump is an HO with added timing, but I figured I’d still make similar power. I definitely need TJ to probably change my timing but I’m worried the pump isn’t doing what it should since I feel it wasn’t fueling much. Floored it in second and nothing came out.

So I haven’t gotten it off yet, the cheap o Reilly gear puller was bending at the nuts lmao. The first seal I believe the lip was damaged, the seal itself did not push out. I’ll report back what I see on this pump in a few hours. Yessir I figured they were a slower climb. I thought something much worse occurred since that seal had been replaced but I noticed my oil pressure being low, which is what happen when the oil got diluted last time. Any opinions on that standard ignition VP44? I’m hoping she performs and lasts a good bit. Couldn’t get one from another store online due to me needing the truck this week

You sir are correct! Dyed fuel and saw it gushing out with breather off. I replaced the seal after the same thing happened 1-2 years ago. Someone had been in there before as we found silicon remnants in a small hole behind the seal… surfaces were also a bit rough possibly from a previous owner trying to get the seal out. The injectors were set to your I believe 320 bar recommendation and I got them from DAP probably a year ago. Probably 15k or less miles on them. 7 times out of 10 she idles smooth lol, ipon initial startup is the smoothest but sometimes after driving she gets rough. I chalk it up to the VP potentially along with maybe a not so good IAT sensor which I just bought one today… I read that sensor can cause a slightly rough idle. Never has it been extremely rough. My glowshift gauge reads about 18 PSI. I’m hoping this weekend to get it on a mechanical gauge to verify.. my above reply to Moparman talks about the pump seal surface condition which I believe may be why it failed. Also had red loctite around it upon install and my buddy said it wasn’t coming out again, must’ve blown due to pressure potentially. Also @Mopar1973Man I bought an SO VP44 from oreillys and it’s I believe standard ignition? I’m on my phone currently and if I leave this reply box it’ll erase everything (it happened 2min ago). I’m a bit worried buying the pump here but came across a comment from I believe you saying there’s only 3-4 remans places in the US and most pumps sold on other sites have to potentially come from them…

Update, diesel in oil! With this amount to burp out, I’m betting it’s the shaft seal on the VP I replaced 1-2yrs ago. I’m gonna dye the fuel and check. I can get a pump in town. If it’s my injectors then that’s a whole other issue cuz I cannot get spares before I have to tow. And I just sold my slightly lower HP ones a few weeks back