YeaImDylan

Is this to essentially relocate the VP computer to a spot that doesn't get as hot??

Thanks for this! I will replace that main fuel line! Also thanks for the warranty hack lmfao my issue is now tho I need a damn VP top cover… blue torque sealant I can get my hands on for the bolts tho. Old vp p/o had on with stealth tap and I wanted my core charge back so I had to tap this vp and put the shiny new cover on the dirty *** hotrod pump I had lol

No other work, just the VP along with oil change cuz it dumped 2 gal of diesel into the crank case 🤬 The fuel line is a bit old and there was a visible crack on the outside rubber BUT no leak under pressure.. so I don’t think air would get in there. I don’t see any leaking lines connected to the VP either (like return and whatnot). I’ll check the back of the head banjo bolt and see if it’s moist. Last time I had that come loose I had hard starts but none of this weird stutter I get after replacing VP.

Hey all, title says most but will go into more detail. sometimes on startup, the engine will start, then die for half a second and come back on. Like if you were to turn the key off while running and quickly turn it back on. This happens occasionally and then a few weeks ago, it would start and then die after a few seconds. It did this a few times before it was just cranking. Finally got it started and it ran fine. This has all occurred after my o Reilly vp pump replacement … and I’m definitely worried it’s the pump. Any insight is appreciated!

That’s crazy you don’t get any boost til 55mph! Thought I’d update you all though. Got my tunes re done for the new pump, it’s weird getting used to not as much low end power like the HO hotrod pump had. Timing was a difference til I got the new tune for the SO. Tow tune worked great, I pulled a 36ft 10k camper on the ball (I don’t wanna do that again lol unless it has the stabilizers) and once I figured out where to have my RPM’s when going up hill, I was pushing 25psi and staying at 55/60mph and EGT’s according to my max tow gauges were at 1050-1100. Sometimes they’d spike up if I didn’t have the momentum going up initially but I’d pull out a bit and they’d go down fast from 1300*. Truck pulled well I thought, most I’ve ever pulled so far. Braking was fine and I did use the controller manually at times, but I have the 6 speed so I’d sit in 5th all the time and if needed drop to 4th on a large downward hill.

Gotcha. I just find it odd with this now non hotrod pump that I’m not having enough fuel to spool. I believe wire tap is working since I have 12v at the nut on the cover.. I believe it leaked out the edge both times. No visible tears tho. The outside wall where the seal buts up had marks in it the first time I replaced the seal and we put loctite around it. I have yet to get a mechanical gauge on there, hoping to this evening tho while I also fix my brake controller.

Update, Truck is back on the road! So, this solved obviously the big problem but also my weird sporadic fuel pressure reading ONLY at 1850 sustained rpm, I think the overflow valve was sticking or something BUT, one thing I noticed on my max level daily tune from TJ, no smoke… and I have 12v at the tap ignition on. I know the hotrod pump is an HO with added timing, but I figured I’d still make similar power. I definitely need TJ to probably change my timing but I’m worried the pump isn’t doing what it should since I feel it wasn’t fueling much. Floored it in second and nothing came out.

So I haven’t gotten it off yet, the cheap o Reilly gear puller was bending at the nuts lmao. The first seal I believe the lip was damaged, the seal itself did not push out. I’ll report back what I see on this pump in a few hours. Yessir I figured they were a slower climb. I thought something much worse occurred since that seal had been replaced but I noticed my oil pressure being low, which is what happen when the oil got diluted last time. Any opinions on that standard ignition VP44? I’m hoping she performs and lasts a good bit. Couldn’t get one from another store online due to me needing the truck this week

You sir are correct! Dyed fuel and saw it gushing out with breather off. I replaced the seal after the same thing happened 1-2 years ago. Someone had been in there before as we found silicon remnants in a small hole behind the seal… surfaces were also a bit rough possibly from a previous owner trying to get the seal out. The injectors were set to your I believe 320 bar recommendation and I got them from DAP probably a year ago. Probably 15k or less miles on them. 7 times out of 10 she idles smooth lol, ipon initial startup is the smoothest but sometimes after driving she gets rough. I chalk it up to the VP potentially along with maybe a not so good IAT sensor which I just bought one today… I read that sensor can cause a slightly rough idle. Never has it been extremely rough. My glowshift gauge reads about 18 PSI. I’m hoping this weekend to get it on a mechanical gauge to verify.. my above reply to Moparman talks about the pump seal surface condition which I believe may be why it failed. Also had red loctite around it upon install and my buddy said it wasn’t coming out again, must’ve blown due to pressure potentially. Also @Mopar1973Man I bought an SO VP44 from oreillys and it’s I believe standard ignition? I’m on my phone currently and if I leave this reply box it’ll erase everything (it happened 2min ago). I’m a bit worried buying the pump here but came across a comment from I believe you saying there’s only 3-4 remans places in the US and most pumps sold on other sites have to potentially come from them…

Update, diesel in oil! With this amount to burp out, I’m betting it’s the shaft seal on the VP I replaced 1-2yrs ago. I’m gonna dye the fuel and check. I can get a pump in town. If it’s my injectors then that’s a whole other issue cuz I cannot get spares before I have to tow. And I just sold my slightly lower HP ones a few weeks back

So it wasn’t as much oil as I figured.. oil was full and didn’t smell like diesel. Will check again. Saw a droplet formed on the vacuum pump where that seal will break.. last time I replaced the pump due to that issue but she was constantly dripping a lot at idle. Maybe this is the very beginning and driving it caused more to gush out? And when I found the last one leaking, it was completely torn/failed possibly? I’m praying that’s the issue and the oil coating came from there. If it’s a completely failed pump, it’ll be tricky to get one in type for towing ugh

Hey all, need urgent help. It’s been awhile since I’ve posted which means things have been pretty good.. just got home and a few blocks away I saw a little blue smoke. Nothing at idle but saw a good amount of oil blew out the crank case vent, about to check oil level now as oil pressure was lower than normal at idle. I figure it got burned on the exhaust cuz the top valve cover had oil from I’m assuming the fan blowing oil everywhere. Freaking out because I’m supposed to be towing a 10k trailer on Wednesday. Gonna check vacuum lines and make sure none came disconnected and whatnot as well as check oil level. Oil is about to maybe hit 5k mark.

Any chance the fact my drive shaft was about to fly off anytime would cause axle wrap in the loose conditions? Posted an image of my rear yoke, not sure if it will post from my phone. good news, surprisingly no issues in the snow easing into the throttle slowly. Also, 4wd is now operational and am excited to try it out whenever another storm comes in! Replacing shocks in the rear this weekend as well. May bite the bullet and get track bars sooner rather than later as well.

I’d be interested in seeing it! I lowered my rears from 80 to 60. They’re 35x12.50x18. Fronts are sitting at about 55 currently. Also had no issues in the snow/ice today. Not sure why I struggle seemingly more in gravel/loose dirt.

Gentlemen, thank you for the replies! I just had these tires put on about a month ago, pretty sure they’re at like max rating… I’ll look into airing them down! Also she is a single axle in the back. I’ll look into getting something for the season for weight! I just ordered a new valair organic dual disc since my SBDD is toast.. I’ll check the receipts from previous owner and see if it was ceramic or not. rear shocks can use some love for sure.. I just did a cross country trip and only had replaced the fronts with bilstein 5100s i believe. I also do engage the clutch with no added pedal when in those conditions. Would you keep the DLD and rebuilding over buying what should be in there? I saw some DHD’s for sale for like a grand in I believe Rancho Cordova near Sacramento. I’m in northern nevada currently. I just don’t want to rebuild and it ending up being the detents or rooster comb which I don’t believe are usually in the rebuild kits..

Hey all, back again! as the title states, my truck does terribly in 2WD in dirt if it starts to slip just a bit. I got stuck briefly at a friend’s cabin trying to reverse up a very very slight incline. I get terrible axle wrap in both forward and reverse. I know obvious answers would be go into 4HI but I have an issue with my T-Case. That’s being thought upon currently on how I wanna go about replacing it. While in 4HI, it pops back into 2HI as soon as I give it any skinny pedal. I also found out the P/O put a junkyard NP241 DLD in it… almost certain my year with the 6 speed came with a DHD so I don’t even want to rebuild this one and diagnose it… which this is a two part question. What all would the previous owner had to have done to put a DLD in here? I’m afraid I’m gonna need different driveshafts and whatnot if I get my hands on a DHD. Maybe he took it apart and put a different spine shaft to match the NV5600? Any input is highly welcomed!

Injectors are newer, I'd confidently say they have less than 10k on them and I had them set to the BAR you've spoken about (315/320 IIRC?). They're DAP's VCO 150HP 7x.010. I'd check my engine load at idle and other parameters but my quad is not wanting to populate on bluetooth any longer Spoke to Quadzilla and they want me to send it in since using a friend's bluetooth dongle did not make it show up on bluetooth. Honestly sucks because I'm on my Daily tune max level for my older setup... Oh well. It'll be 90% highway miles cruising at 65/70. So it ended up being my overhead... I followed your guide to a T but damn I managed to mess that up lol. Maybe my adjuster nuts aren't oblong any longer? I'm not sure if ours are like that or not. The loud pronounced clack is gone and the thumping/flutter from the air box is gone as well.. I only hear it a tad when lugging the engine and coasting. Once I'm back home, I will spray some soapy water around the exhaust manifold and check for leaks and cracks. My drive home to Nevada starts tomorrow so I'm praying everything goes smooth. I have high hopes after all the work I've put into her.

Added this video, I feel it has the best depiction of the noise I’m hearing in person. Almost a flutter? I hope it’s just the shitty turbo to downpipe adapter I have.. and the metallic ticking is manifold gaskets or a leak there.

Would ATF+4 still be a no go on a redhead?? I heard they’re bench tested with that fluid… I’ve had ATF in mine the past week since doing the shaft seal on her.. and got a trip cross country next week and already am jam packed with maintenance to do before said trip.

edit: added video in reply Hey gents, glad to see the site is back! I needed it during that time hahaha. I just replaced my head and put in some 110# springs, ARP 425’s etc. I have this tapping noise that is usually most prevalent when coming down into idle range whether in gear or free revving in neutral. I have a feeling it’s a bad exhaust leak but it’s driving me nuts since occasionally it’s not there and then will be there when I park. I adjusted valves after the head job and did mess up there the first time.. lost #6 intake bridge due to I believe the nut being too loose (oops, live and learn!). Replaced that push rod, and used moparman’s write up to a T and I’ve kept all my bridges but I have this tapping noise. I feel the only way to describe it is maybe tapping spoons together? And you can definitely hear it when changing RPM’s (especially when revving and listening when it comes back to idle RPM). Truck drives and runs great aside from it. Could too tight of clearances cause any noises? I’m driving cross country on the 21st back home to Nevada as my tenure in the military is coming to an end and I’m worried sick with my ole truck. ANY suggestions are appreciated it as I have this week to do some diagnosing. I have some videos I could upload but not sure you guys can pinpoint the specific noise I’m concerned about due to quality and the fact I drive her daily and hear every rattle 24/7!

Hopefully this is allowed.. but I’d get in contact with TJ Frey on 1badvp44. Can Facebook his company or google search and order tunes. He knows what he’s doing with the quadzilla and he takes into account your mods. I’d find out what cm your turbo is tho for sure cuz that can effect tuning parameters as well.

Good to go, definitely getting a new push rod at the least. Any tips on getting that cup back in though? I don’t feel it’s actually damaged… I did read some other forums about people not running the retainer due to them just truly being used on the assembly line for installation (after they broke, not deliberately removing them). Talked to a buddy who had multiple plastic retainers break and his is fine. I just can’t get the cup to go in straight it seems.

Hello everyone, gonna make this shirt and sweet and can update more after work. I did the overhead wrong I believe (first time doing it) and lost the valve bridge on said intake. The cap fell off as well and I’m having trouble getting the cap back into the plastic retainer, keeps going in a bit crooked and I’m weary of just tightening the adjuster and letting it go flush after startup… also believe the top of the push rod is bent slightly, whether this loose valve adjustment caused it or it was like that when I swapped the head this weekend, I’m not sure. Going to autozone and getting a new rod after work. any input is greatly appreciated. This truck has me stressed as hell after fighting multiple issues over the weekend for 40 hours straight lol and she needs to get me across the country in 6 weeks.

Will do John! Thank you for your replies. We replaced all but the evaporator and did the leak test so I'm honestly baffled it's probably leaking since it held vacuum fine for over 10min without moving from 30 hg. New sensors as well for high and low side. We filled the system with oil as well that is UV detection so I will also shine a light over all components. Maybe something didn't seat right when clamping together the tubes and whatnot and it didn't fully blow off or something. Not yet as I'm still recovering from surgery and also need to drive to my friend's house to do some of these tests. I hope it's not the valves since they were brand new lines!

So, turned the truck on the other day and no squeaking/bearing noise/belt noise whatever it is. Upon driving, the noise came back and is there whether the compressor is going or not. A/C is also not blowing as cold as it was the day we installed it. We had the whole vacuum gauge setup for high and low side etc and everything was good to go reading wise. Just had surgery today so I won't be out troubleshooting for a few days but I will look into just replacing the belt and also listening to all pulleys. Sound will come back after idling for a bit WITHOUT engaging A/C.. so may just be the belt or maybe alternator or fan clutch pulley. Still doesn't explain why the AC is now cycling fast when I do have it on and it isn't getting as cold as it was the very first day we installed it. Also had done a leak test and she held vacuum at 30 mercury for like 30min before we went ahead and filled the system with 2.5-3 cans. I won't be able to get gauges back on it til this weekend depending on how I'm feeling.