diesel4life

:thumbup: JR

Nothing wrong with being creative and putting your own twist to improve the functionality of something. Especially not worth throwing a guy under the bus over it. Whether he spent 3 bucks or 30, it's his truck and if he so chooses he could plumb it right into the dam cab and get high off the fumes and you or I won't have a say in the matter. And that is my .02 cents. JR

A 3/4 wrench will work. Crack them loose enough to be able to wiggle the fuel line and crank until you see a fair amount of fuel. Don't crank the engine any longer than about 20 seconds and be sure to give it a break for a minute or two in between or you will be replacing your starter in short order. Also may be a good idea to keep your batteries on a charger if your running them down that much as it is hard on them. Be careful with that starting fluid aside from the long term side effects you could cause serious damage to the engine under the right circumstances. At a minimum I would disconnect the grid heaters, but if an engine won't start under its own power I will not force the issue with ether. Just asking for trouble IMO. For example one of the guys ran our 130 ton crane with an 8.3 Cummins out of fuel on Thursday. He spent 2 hours cranking it and hitting it with ether trying to get it fired up. I came in the next morning, filled the filters with fuel, cycled the key several times while cracking fittings loose to prime the system prior to the pump, then went to the injector lines one a a time and within 40 minutes had it running. Not one shot of ether. Fix the problem and it will start every time on its own. JR

I'm not sure if they would accept a core knowing that you were inside it. They are very finicky about cores. The one that I have was given to me by a guy that tried to change the pump without knowing what he was doing. He tried to pry the gear off the front and chewed up the nose of the pump in the process and they rejected the pump as a core. JR

For those of you running a 285/75/17 (or larger) tire, what do you do for a spare? Im about to pull the trigger on a set but I need to be able to carry a spare. There is only a hair over 33' between the frame rails, not quite enough. I'm thinking I may scab in a few pieces of angle iron the same depth of the frame rail so that the spare rests flat against the frame and the angle, but that also means it will now be hanging down 3 to 4" lower. Just curious if you guys have come up with any other solutions.JR

I have a junk VP all packaged up ready to send to Mike, it's been sitting in the garage for the better part of a month now, I will get it out soon I PROMISE!!!. I was going to dissect it just to see what they're made of, but thought it would benefit everyone more if someone did it and documented it. I think Mike would be much better at that end of it than I.JR

I have one in the garage, but have yet to assemble the rest of the needed parts. Big ticket items are a 6.7 manifold, 4" down pipe, will have to fabricate the charge air piping (I dont know of anyone that makes them), and the stand a lone controller. There are some pretty good write ups over on Cummins Forum if you do a searchJR

Tire size calculator:Tire sizes are metric so you have to convert to inches to determine size. 265/75 is a metric number so you need to determine what that is in inches unless you understand the metric system very well (I don't)1) divide the width of your tire (the first number of the tire size) by 25.4 (25.4 mm per inch)2) take your answer and multiply by your aspect ratio (2nd number on your tire size) This is the height of your tire from the rim to top of tire.3) multiply that number x two (top and bottom of tire) 4) Add the size of your rim to previous answer (16 in your case)EX: 265/75/16265÷25.4= 10.4 inches (overall width of tire)10.4 x .75 = 7.82 inches from your rim to top of tire7.82 x 2 = 15.6 inches (top and bottom of tire)15.6 inches + 16 (rim size) = 31.6 inches overall diameter of tire.JR

My truck is a long bed so I was able to mount inside the frame rail. If you know any fabricators they could make a bracket to mount yours sideways. It would be fairly simple (to someone that can weld and fabricate), sandwich 2 plates between the frame like the AD does, and weld a stand off such as a piece of angle iron or small c channel to the inside plate on the frame rail and weld (or bolt it) to the AD bracket that would normally be mounted against the frame of the truck. This would get it 90* to the frame rail, you would just have to cut it to length. JR

I just don't like the fact that the pump eats everything the tire kicks back when they're mounted on the outside of the frame....JR

Definitely need to plug the IAT back in. I would have to suspect it would have the tendency to run like chit without it. I don't think the lead is very long it has to be back there somewhere.JR

Most likely from the batts going dead. I've seen random codes be thrown from low voltage. If you cleared them and they haven't returned I wouldn't give it another thought. JR

That seems sufficient to meJR

They would know better than I, I was not positive how the bell crank assy works I've only replaced the individual sensor. They have gone down in price in the last few years but that is probably because the aftermarket sensors are much cheaper and have proven as reliable. The 1475 code is troubling, the few ecms that I have personally seen go belly up would spit random codes out like your seeing. Have you cleared the codes to see what comes back? A trip to the dealer to have the ecm reflashed may be in order. It will cost you an hours shop time but would probably be the easiest way to confirm or eliminate it as being the problem.JR

Did you calibrate the APPS sensor? I am pretty sure even buying the entire belle crank assembly the sensor still needs calibrated....BTW, APPS sensors are available online by themselves without having to purchase the entire assembly for a third or less of the price. I havent priced them recently but last I knew they were well over $600, the sensor can be had by itself for less than $200. Just looked up the 1475 as I am not familiar with that one, if that is the code your truly getting, you may be having an ecm issue. 1475 is a fan circuit code which is non existent on your truck. Check the connection at the ecm on the block and make sure it is secure and corrosion free. Also check for proper voltage, low voltage can make the ecm go nuts although I have never heard of it throw a non existent code. JR

If you can get the truck to an auto parts store they can perform a load test on your batteries and alternator at the same time. Takes less than 5 minutes. I would much rather do that than take the time to remove everything but if you can't get the truck there than you don't have much choice.The auto parts store will have a unit that draws half the CCA of the batteries which will determine if they are good or not. They will also hook a wire to the output of the alternator to check for voltage output.JR

Anything has got to be an improvement over the factory lighting! Good luck and let us know how you like the HIDs!JR

Sarah, you sound like a good woman I can understand your frustrations (although from a slightly different perspective) My wife is probably the smartest person I know she runs circles around me in that department. But when it comes to basic principles, well sometimes she struggles to say the least! Hang in there and don't be shy to keep asking questions! BTW, how is the headlight harness coming along? JR

Did you loosen the clamp at the back of the turbo (1st picture) so that you can rotate the elbow slightly? It looks like according to the picture if you rotate the elbow slightly towards the engine you may have a tad more room, then you can compensate by rotating the next lower 90 on the exhaust (the one that would be looking towards the back of the truck) back the opposite way.JR

That is .60+ a gallon cheaper than here. I have always wondered why it is more or less in any particular region, other than supply and demand. I can't think of any other reason why it could vary so much.JR

Maybe I missed it, but what is the reason you are replacing the pistons if there was no damage to them? It just seems to me the pistons are one of the components that are capable of a million miles. Rings would be a no brainer to me if I were in there. From what I remember seeing you are still at a relatively low mileage... Not questioning your logic just curious what your aiming for.JR

QC has been a problem with all of them, particularly the entry level pumps. The OEM replacements seem to be almost as problematic as the OEM's themselves and I believe it is largely due to placement issues. I have an AD100 mounted on the frame rail and I also have my OEM block mounted Carter pump. I took an IR reading on a hot summer day after running the truck 100 miles pulling 9k lbs. The Carter pump (which isn't even running) was over 20* hotter than my frame mounted AD that was running the entire time. I don't know how much hotter that Carter would have been if it was running but I believe it would have been a substantial difference. Between temperature, vibration, and having to pull UNFILTERED fuel the length of the truck, they are destined for failure from the get go. BTW, the AD Raptor motors and the AD100 are the exact same motor. You don't see nearly as many AD failures as you do Raptors,. Main difference being location.... The reason I left my Carter in place was for a back up. It is tied into the fuel system with a TEE and a series of valves. Should my AD fail it is simply a matter of installing the discharge of the Carter back into the OEM filter housing, plugging it in, and switching 2 valves around under the truck. I make enough long distance road trips I wanted the extra insurance and going this route only costs a few extra bucks and a little time if you've already got a spare pump. I used to just carry it as a spare in the tool box but would rather not be on the side of the road trying to figure out how to splice another pump in line in the dark or the cold or whatever. Hopefully I never need to use it but if I do I can be back on the road in less than 10 minutes. My AD100 with a Raptor motor... JR

Learn something new every day! I have yet to see an early 2nd gen with pressed on rotors with front abs. You would think that would not be an option, I could see an option for a comfort feature but usually once they make a change to a safety function it is more often standard equipment. Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk

Pictures or it didnt happen! Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk

I understand how they work I've got a simpler version I've been running for 2 solid winters now. I mainly wanted the ability to use the 3 cylinder idle on cold mornings. Its dang hard to get the equivalent of summertime mpgs in the dead of winter with the flip of a switch. Yes you've fooled the IAT into thinking it's seeing the higher intake temps and altered the timing a hair. Now what about that cold dense air your sucking in and all the fluids that are at a much thicker viscosity due to the frigid temps. It takes several miles just to get everything warmed up and to temp, sometimes as much as 10 to 15 miles depending on driving conditions and temps. And this is assuming the roads are dry, if theyre snow covered there goes everything you may have gained. All these factors suck the fuel mileage right out the tail pipe. I am in no way knocking the system I believe it does help but if everyone expects to gain 6mpg by buying one of these there are going to be some disappointed people. Everyone will see different gains, my real word numbers are +1 to 2 mpg difference in the winter vs running with unaltered IAT values.Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk