diesel4life

You won't have an accurate way of knowing the final torque though. The equation in the link you posted is for the opposite end of the torque wrench. The leverage with a crows foot is in front of the head which is why you need to decrease the torque setting accordingly to the length of the extension. You could slide a 6 ft cheater over the end of a torque wrench and it's still going to click on whatever it is set at. JR

That is for a crows foot attachment, and is showing how to compensate torque for the different angles of the attachment. We have had to use those occasionally over the years. JR

The wifes family lives in Bucks County PA which is right on the NJ border. We have been there a few times over the years. Last summer we rented a condo on the beach in WildWoodJR

Learn something new everyday.JR

1689 is a legitimate code and is a no communication error between the ecm and VP44 like mentioned above. The other codes are not even listed in anything I have which leads me to believe either your pulling the codes up incorrectly or something is really wacky with your ecm. Just to be clear, when the dash goes out everything goes completely out? Do you get a no bus message in the odometer? JR

Hex, if you look at the studs from the back side the round heads should be bottomed out to the rotor. If not then they are not fully seated. Are you saying you got new studs when you replaced your rotors? When I replaced mine I re used my OEM studsJR

I have never even seen those codes before....they arent listed in my reference sheet I have. Have you found any kind of description on them?JR

Hey Mike are you running your winter fronts full time already? I'm not too far away from putting mine on, usually by mid to late October we are well into the 20's and 30's at night time, and highs in the low to mid 50s. Theres always exceptions but I've been caught in mid to upper 60 degree weather with them on and never saw a lick over 190*. Speaking of which, my thermostat has been opening up and swinging again, from low 180s up to 190* :banghead:. Time for another new one I guess.

I'm not sure how the street glows are set up but on my ISSPRO gauges there is a box which mounts under the dash and the harness for the thermo coupler goes into that box and then from the box up to the gauge. So in my case 6 feet (which I believe is the standard length) is enough because you only need enough to run through the grommet into the engine compartment and then along the firewall to the manifold. ISSPRO does make a 3.5 ft extension in case your doing a custom installation and need the extra length, maybe Glowshift has something similar if you need it?

That is quite the service body! I bet it takes a little more than a couple of sets of healthy nads to get that one off :cry:What kind of work do you do with it?

That's how I have always done it as well if I know I am not going to be running it for a while. Either run it empty, or drain the gas and then start and run the gas out of the bowl. I do this with my saw, weed eater, lawn mowers, and atv. My WheelHorse is 30 years old and was handed down to me from my father. From day one he would shut the petcock off after mowing, idle the machine down and let it run itself out of fuel. I have continued that practice and in 30 years that carb has never been apart. We have been really lucky around here ethanol based gas is almost non existant in our area. Not sure why but I'm not complaining I avoid it at all costs.

http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/lubricants/engine-oil/schaeffer-diesel-treat-2000-ultra-low-sulfur-fuel-additive-1-pint.html The sentence under the pictures says alot .....exceeds OEM specifications and will not void manufacturers warranty. JR

Your absolutely right oils do not evaporate. This is an apples to oranges comparison. I cannot post the studies because it is in pdf form but if you look at the Schaeffers website it has been proven to retain stability in fuel longer than untreated fuel itself. Wether or not it will evaporate in an open container is irrelevant that is not how it is designed to be used it is designed to be mixed in with the fuel. It has passed both Cummins approved testing standards L-10 and N-14 (both adopted by ASTM) Again there has been many many more tests performed with Schaeffers products than ever has been performed with 2 cycle oil. 2 cycle has never been recognized by Cummins or anyone else as a legitimate lubricant. Even that test you like to post on the HFFR score backs that up. I can't stress enough I'm not looking to start another debate I understand your very biased towards 2 cycle oil and as a result so are alot of others. That's ok but it seems like there is an opinion here that TCW3 is the only acceptable additive on the market and that is simply untrue. There are better products out there. JR

One of the greatest poems I've ever read thank you for sharingJR

Maybe you didn't get the studs pressed in completely when the rotor was changed? The rotor should certainly be pressed tightly to the hub and the studs is what holds them together. You can take a brass drift pin or something similar, set the rotor face down on some wood blocks and pound the studs in with a bfh one at a time. The round heads should be flush. You can also remove the studs yourself if you don't want to pay someone to do it. I spin the lug nut on flush, and use 2 hammers. Hold one hammer flat on the stud/lug nut and use the other hammer to strike. If you hit the stud directly with one hammer you will likely peen the studs but by using one hammer as a "buffer" you won't hurt a thing. Also, how many miles on your front universal joints? It is a little extra work but you may be further ahead to change it while your in there if you have any doubts about it. It is a lot of work to have to get back in there if you put it all back together and find you still have a problem... Or maybe just pull it out of the axle so you can flex the joint 360* to check for any rough spots. Sometimes just prying on them while theyre in the truck won't give the ghost up..... JR

So will gasoline and diesel fuel. What's your point? :confused: JR

I believe you are referring to(xylene,ethylbenzene, etc?Those are all voc's found in petroleum hydrocarbons. If you look at the msds of diesel fuel, you will find them in there as well. Schaeffer's diesel treat 2000 passed the Cummins L10 injector deposit test and corrosion performance test. These are just 2 examples of why it could be beneficial to actually run an additive that has been engineered and designed for your fuel system. They do more than just provide added lubrication.Again, not trying to start any wars because I know I'm drastically out numbered and definitely easily out witted :pLike I said earlier, jthere are other options out there and nobody ever really seems to touch on anything other than 2 cycle oil.JR

http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performance-Products/JEGS-NiCopp-Nickel-Copper-Brake-Lines/2111534/10002/-1 JR This is the type of brake line I use, I will not use the standard type anymore. This stuff will not rust and is very permeable (I can make bends by hand with out kinking it). It is more expensive than standard brake line but you will never have to worry about it again. Standard brake line will only last a few winters around here before it starts looking real sketchy again. I can actually get this at my local auto parts store so the link is just provided for an example.

I have my OEM block mounted Carter and fuel lines still in place for back up purposes. Unplug my AD, plug the Carter back in, and turn a few valves under the truck and back on my way. It is sad that's what things have come to, between the rash of unreliable pumps and the VP being the most sensitive pump to low fuel pressure JR

If I ever scattered my rear end and had to sink money into a gear set I would change front and rear to a 3.73. I've currently got 3.55s, my former 00 had 4.10s and I feel they are extreme opposites. The 4.10s are necessary for the guys that run around at or close to max gcwr most of the time, but the 3.55s are just too tall for my liking. JR

Yes that is what I am using. Very similar in chemical make up to Opti Lube products (lower HFFR than 2 cycle oil) and Amsoil. Schaeffers also has a lower HFFR score than 2 cycle oil, and right at the same price or a tad cheaper. I know everyone on here is very adamant on the 2 cycle oil and I'm not here to start a debate, but if I can purchase a product thats as good or better, at the same price, that has been specifically engineered to use as an additive, I can't see any reasons not to use it. Schaeffer's has waaay more factual evidence based on tens of thousands of hours of testing than has ever been produced for 2 cycle oil other than personal testimonials and a few HFFR score tests. 2 cycle oil has been proven to increase lubricity and I won't dispute that fact, just be aware there are other options out there JR

Yes it is backwards I'm not sure why they haven't fixed that it's been that way for a while nowJR

http://www.schaefferpremiumdiesel.com/products/diesel_treat_2000.html JR

OK then you should be all set :cool:JR

No additives. Standard ethylene glycol antifreeze or Chrysler approved HOAT. Not sure what specs your motor craft is....JR