diesel4life

TCW3 is a spec. Not sure if it is a US spec or worldwide? But pick up a jug of 2 Cycle oil at your local shop/store and look for the TCW3 spec. I generally use Valvoline because of availability. I don't live near a Walmart and my local auto parts store carries Valvoline by the gallon.

^^^Post zombie apocalypse truck^^^^Pass me a nip of the hardstuff, pard.

A couch is all I have to work with!

If you are leaking fuel than you are definitely introducing air into the system. Get your leak fixed and I bet your stumble goes away. I wouldnt worry too much. Once you get your new drain valve installed let us know if it fixes the problem. In the future when you go to prime the system, I find it helps to purge the air from the system before cranking the truck. I have the older style canisters and there is a port right on top of the canister where I can crack a small valve open just a little to allow the lift pump to push out any air entrapped in the canister. Once I see solid fuel coming out I shut the valve off and start the truck and never have to crack an injector.Oh yeah, get a fuel pressure gauge!

I have an automatic so Im in a little better shape than you manual guys as far as trying to get a load moving or backing one up. But let me tell you since Ive had it I find myself using it alot. Like for instance the road (if you could call it that) going into the camp where we stay at in West Virginia. Its about 7 miles long, very steep, very narrow, and rough. In previous yrs going up it Ive always had to stay in the throttle pretty heavy and watched my egt hover around 1100+*. This while driving no faster than 20 or 25 mph down to 5 or 10 in the sharp corners. And with an auto trans that kind of driving with an unlocked converter sky rockets the trans temp. This year I stopped as soon as we turned on to the road and dropped her down into 2 low. With all that torque she hummed right up with little effort. And while I dont have an EB coming back down I left it in 3rd and threw the lock up switch and it was enough to coast down with truck and trailer and only have to get on the brakes for the hair pin turns. Lots of little for instances like that that I use it for now.

Ive wanted to buy an oil bypass for some time now. Depending on what transpires with my lift pump issues I may be interested in one as well.

I made a bracket and bolted it into one of the hood hinge bolts and tucked everything up in front of my air filter that way its out of the way.Heres a closer pic of it its hard to get a good shot without removing the air filter.The line my finger is on was the supply for vaccum to my t case. I unplugged the line from the vaccum manifold and ran a section of vaccum line to my solenoid. This is now the supply line to the solenoid valve.Coming out of the solenoid valve I ran another section of vaccum line back to the line that runs down behind the engine and into the tcase. So I basically made a loop and when i need 4 lo I simply flip my toggle switch which interrupts the vaccum and then move the t case lever to 4 lo and I now have 4 lo. Like I said its a very cheap alternative and probably not nearly as nice as the kits you can buy but it does work.Just make sure if you do this you get a solenoid that is normally open, otherwise you would have to have it energized all the time to keep the flow of vaccum to the t case and CAD.I chose to mount my toggle switch way down low instead of somewhere up on the dash. I didnt want to drill any holes in the dash and this is down near the t case lever anyhow, so it seemed like a good spot. I made sure to locate it in a spot where it cant get kicked accidentally.

You can be the worlds most pro active guy in the world and still end up sitting on the side of the road. Things happen that are beyond our control. The question is how well are you prepared for it. I personally dont like letting people work on my truck if I dont have to. I probably know my truck better than most average mechanics that your going to run across out on the road, so I'd prefer to not hand over my money on a job I could potentially do myself. Not to mention alot of places I go in the summer dont even have cell service, so then what? Your walking or waiting on someone to happen by you thats kind enough to stop. Just like last weekend we went to West Virginia to go fourwheeling. I didnt have cell phone service for 3 whole days. Going into camp we lost coverage about 20 miles out and didnt get it back until we were headed back out to go home. It would be a real bummer to be in a situation like that where a simple fix could get you back on the road but you dont have anything with you. It almost happened with my lift pump. I started the truck to let it warm up while we loaded the machines up and it had a hiccup about 2 seconds after it started and then carried on like nothing. I figured it was due to the steep angle the truck was parked at for the last 3 days. I drove it 500 miles back home, parked it in the driveway and went to start it for the first time yesterday and guess what? No pressure. After a little investigating I noticed the rubber grommet that seals the plug at the pump was swollen from fuel. So after trying to bleed the system unsuccessfully I went to the back of my truck (I was still loaded from the trip) grabbed the carter threw it back on and truck starts right up.It could have very well happened to me down there in the middle of nowhere and I would have been just fine because I was prepared.Of all the parts, tools, and fluids I carry they take up no more room than 2 small coolers. I have an 8 foot bed with a locking tailgate and cap so I can afford a little space. The bigger stuff that you cant do on the side of the road you may have to call a tow truck. But then again, if your stuff is properly maintenanced thats an unlikely occurance.JAG, as for the hydraulic jacks a properly working jack will not leak fluid as long as the bleeder screw is tight. But there still is an outside chance a seal could go south and then you could have a leak in your carpet. I keep a bottle jack in the bed when Im hauling my trailer. The factory jack will work on my truck but if my trailer is heavily loaded I have my doubts. I like those wheel ramps they make for tandem axle trailers. If you need to change a tire out you stuff the ramp in front of or behind the good tire and then pull up (or back up) onto it and the damaged tire is off the ground and now you can service it. I dont own one but its on the list of "it would be nice to own"

I bought a cheapo 12 volt solenoid off of amazon.com for around 15 bucks. I teed into the vaccum line in the engine compartment before it drops down behind the engine and to the transfer case that way everything stays clean rather than being under the truck and in the salt, mud etc. The solenoid is normally open so the vaccum simply travels through the solenoid and then down to the transfer case until I flip the toggle switch which blocks the flow of vaccum and then I put the t case in 4 lo only now its 2 lo. Its a real simple set up and I had less than 30 bucks into everything. Im sure the kits from BD are nicer. I can take some pics of it if you like.

When your making a 1000 plus mile trip each way its hard saying what can happen and where it will happen. An electric lift pump can go at anytime, mine is a year old and I just pulled it off yesterday due to an internal leak causing loss of prime when the truck sits. This 2 days after a 1000 mile trip to west Virginia. As far as carrying extra sensors, I would like for someone to explain how you know when one is going to give up its ghost? Ive contemplated changing all mine out due to their age but as we all know in todays world newer does not necessarily mean better. So I have all the critical spares and I keep them handy whenever i leave town. My truck is over 13 years old. Thats called being prepared, it has nothing to do with lack of maintaining anything.

Is it just me or do you have different tires/wheels on in those pictures?

The APPS is the big one IMO. Also for me a crank sensor, although I think the 00-02 trucks went to the Cam sensor, I dont know if they have both. MAP sensor rarely fails but I have one anyway. In my case I bought a spare of everything simply because my sensors (except my APPS) are all original. Which means theyre 13+ yrs old now, who knows how long they will last. Eventually theyre bound to go so when they do I have them sitting on the shelf in the garage or in the toolbox when Im on the road. Also if you order from Geno's you will get Cummins sensors. Theyre just a tad pricier than going to your local autoparts store but worth the extra few bucks IMO.

Hes holdin his cards pretty close Caj!

Aside from what you mentioned I always take my oem carter lift pump with me and I have a spare of every critical sensor. Also keep a tool box in the back with all the common wrenches and sockets. All critical fluids as well. If you have a scanner to read any codes that may pop up that could be a life saver. Caj is right about aaa while on the road but then you still have to pay a shop to fix your truck. Sometimes theres no way around that, you cant do everything yourself on the road. But I sure do try to cover as much as I can. Not only does it save money but can potentially save alot of time. Nobody wants to hang around and burn up an extra day and night of vacation on a Sunday waiting for a shop to open Monday morning when it could be something you handle on your own in an hour or two.When are you heading to Jellystone? Ill be in south eastern Wyoming the 2nd week of July for 6 or 7 days. Would have liked to of taken the kids to Yellowstone while were out there but we have too much going on this summer and couldnt take enough time away from home. Will make it happen one year soon.

Macarena Man, your avatar scares me

Good cover story!

They are pressed in. Little different set up than the 2nd gens with the aam axles, but they are none the less pressed in. Good news for him, now he doesnt have to replace his entire front axle!

Read the link that Mike provided above it will explain the kdp. If by chance it backs out it could crack the front case and cause an oil leak. Not saying that is your issue, just something to look for when your trying to find the source of the leak. If your engine bay is that nasty that you cant see where the leak is coming from, I would seriously do a degreasing job before you break into the engine. It will make it much easier to work on and easier to spot the leak, assuming you can start the truck.

Im just wondering if there was a body in it!

That stinks it happened so far from home! At least youve got the problem behind you now.Hey, maybe I missed it but I dont remember seeing any pics of your truck with those fancy schmancy Alcoas you were posting about a while back. Come on man, dont be holding out!!

Yeah, but the power wheelies and the extra 3 or 4 mph of blistering grass cutting speed almost makes it worth it, until its time for a rebuild! I remember when the Marathon stations here had the good ol Super Blue. The pumps werent part of the regular fuel islands but out back behind the station. - - - Updated - - - Yeah I hate all the different colored pumps and handles, makes me paranoid that my wife will grab the wrong one someday. Not that she doesnt pay attention (shes alot smarter than I is!) but it does happen. I make darn sure I see the words "diesel" on the pump if Im at a station Im not familiar with. Sometimes I even sniff the nozzle just to make sure!

And yet more proof people have more money than brains!

Regardless of whether your driving 10 mph over or 10 mph under the speed limit you will still see a benefit in mpg's, as long as your driving habits remain the same. I just took my first road trip on my new RV275's and pulling a trailer weighing approximately 6k pounds and a 1000 lbs in the bed (figuring conservatively) I still averaged 15.3 Mpg hand calculated as of my last fill up. I have yet to fill the truck up and check my final numbers since I've been home (the truck has also sat since I got home) but I'm confident my numbers will improve slightly because my last fill up was in West Virginia where the speed limit is 70 and I was pulling many steep Grades. Once we crossed into Ohio the terrain is considerably flatter and the speed limit drops. I did this same trip last year and while I have yet to dig out my records I keep of all my road trips I remember being somewhere in the low 14's mpg overall. Again same load same destination and same speeds so the injectors have definitely made an improvement in mileage not to mention some of the steep 7 and 8% grades I previously had to drop out of OD and run in 3rd to prevent egt's from climbing. This year I pulled everyone of them in OD and never saw any higher than 1100 degrees for a very short time. For the most part temps hung right around the 1000 degree mark on the steep grades. They compliment my Smarty very well and I'm very happy with the performance of them, well worth the money IMO.My buddy drove his 2500chevy with a 6.0 And at every fill up I hung right with him in gallons filled. I consistently within a gallon or two every fill up. His truck was empty other than a little cargo in the bed. Needless to say he is not very impressed with his brand new 30k dollar truck!

What did they say about the cam sensor? You are talking about the 98.5 in your sig right?

The only thing Im aware of that could be different (depending on the year) would be the valvebody. You would either have to find a trans of the same year or swap vb's