diesel4life

Was yours off in the beginning like i posted last night? Ive got about 300 miles on mine so far, this morning it seemed like it was getting better but for some reason i wasnt getting a reading on my water temp. About halfway into my trip the temp gauge started working but the avg mpg went way out of wack again.

Ive been running a full exhaust no muffler/ resonator for many yrs with no ill effects. I think back pressure would be a bad thing for the simple fact of higher egt's :shrug

Thanks, Rogan. I feel better knowing at least its not the gauge acting up. I figured it would take a little time but didnt know it would take that long. I usually run through a tank about every 10 days so hopefully withen about a month ill see some improvement

Bummer.... thats one of the main reasons i bought it. - - - Updated - - - Ive been through all the units of measurement. Theres one setting i havent messed with it has to do with the tps reading 0 when not on the throttle. Thought id check with some of those who have em before i change too much around its not part of the general set up but it is something u can adjust...

Ok so i picked up a scan gauge the other day. Got it hooked up, filled my tank up and calibrated according to directions and followed through with the other set up instructions. All of the engine monitoring (rpm, coolant temp, etc) seem to be functioning correctly but the avg mpg and mpg are waaay out in left field. Fuel type b seems to give accurate readings when accelerating but when maintaining any speed its way off. Ive taken 2 trips 25 miles each way at 65 mph the gauge shows im getting 40 mpg ish. At 55 its even higher. While id like to see those kind of numbers, its obviously wrong. Anybody have any thoughts? I was reading about the fuel cut off, do i need to adjust this?

Gotcha. Your right you will be much better off getting away from the factory lp. I was only really offering mine in case u were trying to fix it up enough to sell. its a good running pump with low miles and would be perfect for getting a truck "out the door" but not something you would want long term on a truck you plan on keeping.

Im confused...are you talking about your truck or lp "going away"? If you are talking about your truck and want to save a few bucks and just get the truck fixed good enough to sell Ive got an original carter lp with a hair over 15k miles id sell you cheap. Ill never put it back on my truck its just sitting around collecting dust. If you are keeping the truck, Id spring for an AD or Raptor like your talking about.

Or you could spring for smarty (for pulling codes) and get a little kick in the pants to boot Theyre a pretty expensive scan tool though if thats all your after

Just filled up tonight 699 miles 35 gallons at 4.19 20 mpg avg. Thats mostly all country road driving 55 and 60 to 65 on the free way. I bit the bullet and bought a scan gauge so Im interested to see if I can improve on my mileage a little.

im kind of parial to the smarty nothing against any of the others i know of someone who uses an edge (not even sure what model) and likes it. For me the smarty makes good clean power you can tweak the tunes yourself or just run them the way theyre set up in the program. plus you have the ability to correct your speedo if your running aftermarket tires and read/clear dtc's. Doesnt have the ability to adjust on the fly like others do but i think thats a little over played by the other brands ive never really had the need to change settings like that i set it up the way i want it and run it if you feel the need to change tunes its only a matter of shutting down for 2 or 3 minutes tops so for me thats not a big deal.

An 80k mile warrantied tire for 600 bucks is pretty reasonable, if you can foot the bill it may not be a bad way to go. Youll be money ahead over buying a used set now and then doing it all over again a few months down the road. Also, buying an E rated tire will get much better tread wear than a D rating, especially with the heavy front ends combined with towing.

The way we ended up doing on a friends truck was hook line to slave up and before installing hold slave upright with line towards the top leave cap off master cylinder and pump the hell outta it air will eventually work up towards top might be better ways to do it but worked for usForgot to mention we also filled it up before hooking the line up

It could be in there for 3 days and still be clogged. Could o picked something jp from your tank or some bad fuel, just a suggestion. I always check the easy things before replacing anything

That does seem like quite a drop. Could be clogged inlet or filters? Has it always done this or just recently started? Even my smaller 100 doesnt drop anywhere near that much at wot.

I did catch that. The temp gauge is the same way, just reads voltage, not pressure or temperature. So when you cut the power to the ect, you saw the voltage at the oil pressure increase. Im was just surprised that the gauge clusters vary, my 2000 had the same cluster that i have now. So they must have changed em in 01?

That code doesnt really tell you much about whats going on.... would be very helpful if you knew what kind of fuel pressure you were running to injection pump. A gauge would be a strong consideration esp if you are thinking about putting a new injection pump on. As far as lift pumps are concerned, i know alot of people will insist on getting a 150. While they are superior pumps and the extra filtration is a bonus, if your running relative stock set up the fass or airdog 100 are more than sufficient. I have an airdog and have had zero problems with it. I can run level 9 on my smarty and pump will drop no more than 3 to 4 psi at wot.

I know of a guh whose been running a very small amt ( i think 2 to 3 gal per tank) in his ve pumped 12 valve for many years with no issues. He has a tank set up where he stores his oil and runs it through a series of filters and seperators before pouring into fuel tank on truck. Hes also got a seperator and extra filtration on his truck as a precaution. I cant comment what he runs for filters though ive never paid enough attention. Hes been doing this for the last 10 years and truck has never missed a beat i dont think its an issue on the older rigs like you are talking about as long as you dont get overzealous and keep the mixture light. On another note, your going to have to fill us in on this 903 4x4 id like to see some info on that!

That poor truck looks like its bieng molested itll never be right again

Its odd that your gauge set up reads differently than mine. My gauge maxes out at 120 and the middle number is 60. But everything else in your cluster looks identical strange

Welcome to the site. I think youll find this site to be alot different than CF. Nothin against them, I get on there too, just seems to be alot of haters over there. You wont find that here at all.

Cant help ya out with all the noises but as far as oil pressure 80 psi is nothing to be worried about when cold. Mine sits at 80 at idle when cold, even in the middle of summer. Driving down the road when fully warmed up is still well over 60.

The big line kit through vulcan states 98.5 thru 07 models....you should have the same threads as the earlier canisters.

Was out in the garage a little bit ago and dug out my old banjo bolts and dripley is right they are the same size on the canister and vp. Double checked em with my tap n die set and they are 12 mm. I was thinking they were npt on the canister because my smaller ports where i draw my fuel pressure from is 1/8 npt. Also, this is on my 1998.5 im not sure about the newer style canisters bieng the same.

Im almost 100 percent sure the vp is metric thread but cant help you with the size. On the filter housing if i remember correctly it was 3/4 - 16. Ill try to find some literature and let u knowTry a 12 x 1.5 on the vp. Maybe somebody will correct me but im pretty sure thats what it is

The vp on my former 2000 threw 2 vp codes and i ran it for 2 years. It had a dead pedal at certain positions on the pedal when cold until it got up over 140 temp and then every once in a blue moon going down the road it would develop one. I would simply let off the pedal until it reached idle speed for a split second and get back on it and all would be fine. It was never bad enough to warrent replacing so i just rode it out and eventually sold it like that. And then on my 98 the vp went with no warning. Parked it out in the driveway when i shut it off no codes no issues went to start it the next day and just like that siezed rotor and there she sat. No ryme or reason to em just gotta realize they were the weak link in our trucks and if you dont know the prior history to your truck (I didnt on either of them) then you almost have to plan on it going out at some point. You just pray your not several hundred miles from home when it goes :banghead: