keydl

For a semi parking with the tank out of level , down at the back, and suck/siphon the heel with a small tube into a clear container to see the part line between water and diesel.For a pickup the tank comes off and the gauge comes out to look in and remove the last wet from the tank. For convenience a dip tube installed to the bottom with small notches to scavenge the bottom of the heel will let you sample the bottom of the tank - the connected line needs to be capped when you are not sampling.The biocide is avail at marine supplies because the problem is much more common with boats. I get it from West Marine.The nurse tank needs treated, the stuff lives at the boundary water/oil and spreads with spoors. No water - no growth.keydl

At the local heavy duty parts there is a sealed lamp intended for the underside of the middle of the trailer for the purpose - I have mounted them on 2 trucls, once in the mirror brackets and once at the rear of the front fender. Macks use a 4x4 amber tail/turn in the rear of the front fender. Cutting grommets in at the top front of the bed would be simple and a wire to the front turn signal and ground. If you have west coast mirrors a mount bracket will fit fair. The rear of the front fender has a void that will take a grommet.For those that want to ride the 'bow wake' aim a strong LED at the driver - I had an Int COE that was a real brick, but a red 100 W 'cargo light ' made the point. it was under the cab and pointed at the driver that could not pass after they hit the turbulence from the truck. Things were a little different then - the truck would make 86 mph, so that was the normal speed and with 335 hp.I had thought about putting 2 1/2 round clearance LED lights w/flush mount grommets at both ends 2 on each side, one with the tail, other with the turn. They also have stick on LED's.keydl

I would treat for biologic at the min, service for water in the tank if the facilitys were avail. Black specks are the sign to use biocide and water is the growth medium. His filter looks normal, mine looks the same at 50k, my service period. The other reason to change? low power. keydl

slow

Uh, hadn't thought that way - 2 GM, 2 Ford and 2 Dodges. Not the first light diesel, that was the Isuzu and there were 5 heavy and MD before I quit touristing.I think the best way to size tires would be pounds per square inch on the ground, dry sugar sand will support about the same as mud and the other end is concrete pavement. Tire life generaly improves with less pressure per square inch but wind and heat increase,spending a little for wider will improve the number of miles at the cost of a little fuel. 40k on 7.50 16's v 75k on 8.00 19.5's when they were the standard, 265's seem the 10 year ago standard for shipping 10k capacity trucks with 235's as an alternative. Talking to the fellow that I buy tires from - going to 265 from 235 would cost $30 and maybe 5 gallons of fuel over 80k miles v the 60k miles from the 235's. And the 265's will save a lot of effort getting out of the field 3-4 times a year when it is dry. If you don't leave the hard and the ice and slush are a factor, skinny may be better.Tread design for the highway, my preference is 5 rib with venting to clear water and tread blocks 3/8's wide along the ribs. Tread blocks tilt under change in speed to bite ice and snowpac or wipe water away. They also flex when rolling to cool the tread.The Dodge is a club cab w/autoYour little Honda will make an excellent commuter. My daughters Honda would quit running because of the ground connection on the rocker cover, check the Honda forums on yours.keydl

One of the better 'driving' lights is one of the new halogen spot lights - 5 or 6 in. The 6 in will fit the junk 6 in offroad light housings and reach way out with a very tight pattern that puts 100W out at about 30 foot wide around 4-450 feet. They are not in my budget but they are nice and not a thief magnet in the junk housing. The spot light was on a remote control for security, set the alarm off or punch the remote button and it turns on.keydl

There is no problem when they are matched by voltage, at the time I did not have a digital voltmeter. The example has served to prevent problems since - I look for date codes within 6 months and verify the standing voltage an hour after 10 min of head lights on for a load. I often find 1 of 4 on a semi that is more than .2 volts down and they work better with 3 batteries than 4. One trip I smelled acid when opening the door, I checked and one battery was hot so I disconnected the ground for that battery. Next day that battery measured 2.2 v down - indicating a shorted cell - so it just rode back to the barn for 3 weeks. Not needed for moderate temps.I have modified several to use the 31C batteries from semi's because of the difficulty of matching voltage with a small number to chose from, taking a pair for a diesel or a single for a gas or using 3 for a boat and using the replaced batteries for cores keeps good starting power for the least money. Likewise on the parts.keydl

My '50 Chev came with 7.00 18 tires on 2 piece wheels, the '60 Dodge was 8.00 19.5's, the '69 Ford wore 7.50 16's, the '78 Ford had 7.50 16's and the '84 GMC was on 215x86R16 - all 1 ton. The '93 Dodge is a 3/4 and built the same as all but the '50 and is the first that does not carry carpet pieces to get out of sand with the 245 and 265 width tires, by the same token the 235 width with siping will bite ice well. I prefer siping over studs.keydl

It probably did not help the fluid condition running it so low that it did not move right away, I would pump out what is easy and replace it a couple of times - and put it on the PM list every 4-5 oil changes.keydl

I have picked up a load of fuel that included about 20 gallons of water for 200 gallons of fuel, I fueled will the delivery truck was dumping and the rain was a frog strangler. I did not make it out of the truck stop, they serviced my tanks and their tanks and gave me 3 fuel filters and a couple of quarts of ATF.Running stale fuel that has already lost most of the lighter parts of the fuel mixture is the current risk that system cleaner would be used for, it smells as bad as rotten gas - just takes longer.So, yes there is a use for the stuff but not any where what is advertised for it and never 'regular maintinance'.The current fuels will probably still have a clean tank at a million miles, some of the changes are good The old tern plated tanks were a problem with just a little water and some were formed to hold water on top.keydl

At 180k a $15 set of brushes should have done it for another 100k :)For running matched batteries - I used to drive a Ford with a Cat hauling scrap iron. The mismatched batteries would self discharge over a week end when the temps were around freezing or lower, disconnecting the ground on 1 battery cured the problem. Best description was that the stronger battery charged the weaker and the heat of that made it much faster, then both cooled and the weaker had a higher charge so it charged the stronger battery. Back and fourth loosing power each cycle until both were dead.keydl

The 215's were stock for tonners 20 years ago, they replaced 7.50's and 7.00 15. 17.5 and 19.5 were also shipped.A lot of duals will space with 235's with out spacers to keep the tires from kissing when loaded.I have run all 3 - 245, 235, and 265 on the stock 93 steel wheels and the only difference is that the 235's sink in sand as bad as the old iron with 7.50 16 and 8.00 17.5's.The 235's and 265's are very close in diameterkeydl

I see two changes - recirc - stops the air flow through the cab and out the rear door gap.and - A/C comp runs as called by the thermostatThe recirk stops the drain from the base of the windshield of the high pressure air. the bubble shape would change in front of the windshield and behind the cab.Try A/C and A/C recircI have an '84 GMC w/ 454, 400, 4.56 gears. 11mpg @ 55, 8mpg@65, drops about .2mpg with a trailer/tractor - 12,200#. I moved a 12x68 mobile home and it dropped to 6.6 for 47k gcw. Better than the old International but not as good as the Ford with a Cat.keydl

I would lean more to change in air flow, as in dirty air at the back edge of the door. Quick way to check is to tape a tab of plastic to cover the gap at the trail edge of the door.keydl

I do pretty much like mike. And yes there is a little more - time based - people try to turn the screw driver to save money.As a percentage of billing they are way up because sales tax collections are off by about 75%.keydl

A long time back Dad sold a gaget to clean combustion chambers and improve fuel economy. It was a mix of methanol and water with what resembles washer pumps on later cars and a orifice to the intake ( vacuum on gas and under the filter on diesel ). After about 300 hours on the engine there was no need to wire brush the valves for a valve job . I used one on several trucks and another on my cars. I had no need to take most of them apart but the ones that I did were just discoloration from the orifice into the exhaust manifold.The diesel had a switch that turned on the pump at about 2# boost - looked like the switch for water level on a washing machine.Methanol was used for a lot of things in the shop - deicing brakes, locks, solvent, penitrating oil component, windshield cleaner, fuel deicer, anti-gel. the list goes on.....Based on the problems shown to come from some of the uses I would use 2cycle in the fuel if methanol was used in the air intake to protect the compression ring.keydl

He just got what he tried to buy 41 days before - a new computer. It did not work out of the box and the peons dried to intimidate him.His friend took the time to go and spend an hour to advocate for him - it took an hour because of the way the corp trains employees.What better reason to only go for their 'lose leaders' that are sold below markup to get people in the door. If you want to look at stuff, the corp is able to get their own bar codes so there is not a 'comp' in the market.keydl

One of the things hat KILL mold ( and fungus ) is ethlyne glycol anti-freeze. Wet all discolored places at least 6 in past the last signs - if it is indoors cover with plastic film for a week, the vapor is not recommended for respiration. It takes about 3 days to soak through paint.You WILL have to find the water source - roof leak, wall leak, plumbing leak, kid hoarding water or condensate - the 65 F temp can collect water in the wall or roof if that is below dewpoint. Condensate is a very common problem where the temperature is 3-4 months below freezingStripping the room and raising the temp to 160 F for a day is another way as is tenting the house the same as for termites.Then there is always the bunny suits and stripping the inside to the out at $3.50 a pound if the gov finds it.I looked at the ozone generators, and yes they will kill the mold but no it is not safe to share mold and ozone to breath at the same time. And there is no marker that will tell when the mold is gone.One more thought Texas has been in the 'news' about mold , a lot of the cause is northern style vapor barrier - up north the put it in the inside wall, down south we put it on the outside wall. All of the rust belt refugees kept building northern style when they relocated. If that is the problem with your trailer the insulation will best be changed to foam.keydl

A kitchen baster is one of the tools that I use. Plastic tanks usually will remove, spilling the contents into a bag and then either slip back on or alter it to drain.The son's car has a small tube with a float that has a magnet in it and 2 small slits to supply larger chambers. I took it off and washed it with degreaser, rinsed with water, dried with alcohol and blew it out with air. Pulled the sleeve with the float out and cut the slits to fit 1/4 OD tubing that will fit the baster or the vacuum brake bleeder. The first change turned off the brake lightand 6 more ( roughly monthly ) changes left the color a pale amber instead of black at the width of the tank.The used brake fluid makes good paint stripper for most paints, whether you use the pedal to do it, pressure from MC or wheel or vacuum at the wheel. Even gravity drain beats the world out of no exchange, brake hydraulics in the intermountain desert or the high plains often last 20 years where 5 years at sea level is closer to the norm.How ever you do it - ABS brakes need clean dry brake fluid.keydl

I ran a state insp in Colo when they had stickers, now you get inspected if you have an accident, the cost is not $5 for all but a defective vehicle ticket that makes a tire with less than 2/32 tread equal to running a red light for liability.One of the mods I plan is to feed relays from the alt stud and use the current headlight plugs for signal with 12 or 10 ga wire for low voltage drop to the headlights.keydl

Gravity bleeding will leave 1/2 of the cylinder ( under the outlet port ) not changed.Pumping the pedal will get all of the MC bore.Tipping each caliper upside down and clearing the brake lines and caliper with 10 psi air ( yes use a gauge and regulator) will change all of the fluid but leave the trash.Replacing the rubber parts lets you take the trash out. The sealing surface for brake fluid is the square grove that the square o-ring fits into and the piston, pistons are avail for most. The bellow weather seal to protect the piston is the face that shows rust in the pictures and the grove on the piston. The drain hole on the bellow seal should be to the bottom.I currently advocate changing the MC contents with an oil change, it allows the system contents to mix before the MC contents are changed agin.keydl

This fits one of the instructions on a pad set. Make 3 hard stops from 60 to 5 mph to break in and set the pads. Cooks the flex agent at the surface to leave a pad with less to transfer to the rotor. Drive 15-20 min without setting with the brakes applied (light).If the warped feel goes away - the cause is the pads. It will come back after a hard stop at a light, and you will know for sure. Lightly dragging the brakes will eat the rust in a 1/4 mile on most, same thing holding hot pads on the rotor will transfer material so cool them before a full standing stop.Not all pads work this way but the last 3 sets from different places have and 2 had the same instructions in the box.Several ways to 'do' the brake fluid, mine - suck the MC contents when changing the oil. Partial change same as the transmission. There is no drain plug on the converter so you change the gallon in the pan. Do it every 1k miles or 6 wks until the MC contents are clear after 6 wks. Unless the calipers are inverted and the fluid blown clear or the calipers replaced/rebuilt it is still a partial change.Changing the contents of the MC when discolored is another way to do partial changes, check monthly and change when color shows.It is nearly free when compared to parts and labor.keydl

All the new applications!It only takes a couple of unneeded filter changes to pay for a filterminder, maybe 3 on a common gasser.The 2.2 filter is a cheap gasser ( $4 ) and the last from Thermoking was about $13 IIRC. But the 2.2 is NA so the process is built in, if it smokes more it needs a filter.keydl

If you don't have a filterminder - the cheapest that I have seen is Thermoking. They have a 1/8 th pipe connection and can be plumbed with tubing to the dash like the big trucks or set on a bracket on a bulkhead fitting as well as the grommet and adapter.A vacuum gauge has the same information if you are looking at it at the highest engine speed.They can show high if the paper gets wet but still have a lot of life left.keydl

Jc whitney used to sell them, been several years that the have not been in the catalog - they age the oil unless it is below 0 and the new oils flow better than the old with a heater.keydl