guesswho512

Starter Contacts Disconnect and isolate negative cables of both batteries. Raise and support vehicle. Pull back protective rubber boot from solenoid battery terminal far enough to access and remove nut securing battery positive cable wire harness connector eyelet to solenoid battery terminal stud (Fig. 10). Remove nut securing battery positive cable wire harness solenoid connector eyelet to solenoid terminal stud.(17mm) Remove battery positive cable wire harness connector eyelets from solenoid terminal studs. While supporting starter motor, remove three bolts securing starter motor to flywheel housing(8 or 10mm 12 point bolts, use box wrench or suitable socket) Remove starter motor from engine (certain diesel engines have an aluminum spacer mounted between the starter and the starter mounting flange. Note position and orientation of spacer before removal). Now some of the basic tools you'll need. Now you can take the nut on the other side off(15mm). then a phillips screwdriver removes the 3 cap screws. When the cap comes off the plunger springs out. there is a little ball behind the spring(mine didn't come out, but remember it is there, don't lose it). With the plunger out of the way, you can take the out side nuts off the studs. because of the plastic guards, i could not get a good enough bite with a wrench and with a impact gun made short work. With the nuts off, you can remove the studs the contacts are press on the studs. Swap the old contacts for the new ones. Try to keep the contact touching the back plate while tightening the nut (they try to twist when you tighten). Take the spring off the old plunger and place on new one put the ball in if it came out. Insert new plunger and replace cap. Connect the wire to the stud and install starter on truck! Article Wrote By: GuessWho512 http://forum.mopar1973man.c View full Cummins article

i don't know if i missed it, but jasper has a pic of the "diaphragm" here: http://www3.jasperengines.com/blog/2011/12/02/jasper-remanufactures-vp44-diesel-injection-pumps/ so i think it's safe to say that yes, there is a diaphragm and yes, it can be worn out or damaged. just my

when you installed the FASS system, did you use a diesel compatible thread locker? i found one at a local part store that was marketed for marine applications. i used it on all the threaded ports when i installed my airdog 150 and i personally believe that is why my truck holds a prime for over a day. if you suck air in, then you will have trouble similar to what you describe. i'm not a mechanic, i just play one on TV....and i stay in a holiday express last night. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7jo_x7ecIFg just in case you missed the joke

i was under the impression that dana 80's went on the diesels and the dana 70's went on the gassers for the years of 98-02. please correct me if i am wrong. also having a 2wheel drive truck, i love having the limited slip in my dana 80...but i do wear the tires out faster on the rear. i think if you change from factory drums to discs, then you have to change the master cylinder. if memory serves, drums work on pressure, and discs work on volume of flow. so you would need a cylinder matched to you application.

for the starter contacts, read this write up: http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/1364-starter-contact-write-up/ also...if the truck is not starting right now, the contacts are the problem(which they are 90% of the time with this problem), and you need to use the truck before the replacements come in, then you can follow the steps of the write up, but only remove the 1 contact that is thin and make the hole longer, allowing you to get the contact closer to the plunger. i did that with my truck and it allowed me 2 months(possibly longer, but i finally broke down and ordered the replacements) before i change them with the new ones for troubleshooting the airdog, if the fuse is good: take the airdog relay out in make a jumper wire. with the key to "on", but not cracking the starter, place the jumper wire in the relay socket were it jumps the yellow and red wires. the airdog should run constantly. if it does, then you can confirm it is the relay by taking one of the big 5 blade relays out of the PDC and placing it in the airdog's relay socket. then when you crank the truck, the airdog should come on.

i respect your thoughts, but a little food for thought....the VP44 don't work without electricity! furthermore, you get air and water separation from an airdog. as well as a lifetime warranty. i've had mine for over 5 yrs now with nearly no problems (leaks, electrical, etc) until what i mentioned in this post: http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/7966-need-help-asap-with-airdog/ i am not a spokesman or get paid by airdog. i'm merely a member of this forum trying to give other members insight based upon my experiences.

i would like to clarify....pureflow guys in jefferson city, mo were very kind and friendly(the one's up north, Illinois i think, not so much). the guy i dealt with from MO was named Jeremy. he seemed knowledgeable and seemed like he wanted to get my truck back on the road asap. i did have a lifetime warranty, so all i paid for was shipping both ways...$17 to go from okc to jefferson city and $13 for the return trip. the airdog 150 is still going strong after they repaired it. they claimed to have flow tested it before sending it back to ensure it meets all their specs. i would recommend this product to anyone i with a diesel truck. i have been running fleetguard stratopore FF5613 filters and a baldwin BF1275 water seperator after the airdog originals needed replacing. mine is one of the 1st installation kits that required drilling the tank for the original designed draw straw. i have had my airdog for 5yrs or longer before this problem sprouted up. on a slightly different note...my truck rolled 215,000 miles yesterday. if memory serves, i purchased this truck from the original owner with 87,000 on it. oils for the motor, trans, diff, filters, and the 1 bent push rod....thats pretty much the only "work" that has been done to this truck while i've owned it. the farmer that i purchased from stated that he had to have the dana 80 worked on due to the pinion bearing dieing. so what a great truck!

lol, hope you don't think i was upset....i know u work hard to keep this community going. looks like i'm "a OK".....get it, i'm in oklahoma AND my account isn't in lost family member...

got the pump back from pureflow and it works like a champ. it appears their assessment, that the motor was going south, was correct. thanks to everyone for help/advice. pump has been on the truck for over a week and no problems.

after taking it to a buddy's house, the fuse blew in about 60 seconds with the relay removed and a jumper wire in the relay socket. it was the first time that test failed. i think that pureflow's assessment was correct. i have decided that im well under 500hp so dont need more flow, and the sound of the airdog is what alerted me to the problem. therefore, i shipped my 150 to jefferson city, mo.... thanks to everyone for your thoughts on this problem...i had me tricked. i will update u guys when the pump is on the truck again.

i'm sure this is the upgrade; http://www.pureflowtechnologiesairdog.com/airdog-model-engine-info/commercial-transportation/universal-airdog-fpii-150-200/

one of pureflows test were to use a different relay(a 5 blade from the factory PDC box under the hood) in place of airdogs relay. when i did that, the fuse lasted 45-60seconds (of the 9 fuses blown so far, was the longest lived thus far)

me too....im pretty good with troubleshooting, but im stumped. correct,but the truck is not running(ie started), as pureflow's instructions said do not start the truck.....that is why im stumped. i think u are confused. OHMs is resistance, and u should not check for resistance on a energized circuit. all the places to check voltage read ~12.6volts(pump connection, relay socket,and inline fuse). all the tests for continuity came back 0.00 or 0.01....open is 1.0. i just got in touch with pureflow, and they seem to think the motor needs to be replaced. i do have a lifetime warranty so they gave me 3 options. 1.send them the pump, they fix it and test, then i pay return shipping 2.they send me a motor after i pay a $150 core charge and pay for shipping 3.i can upgrade to a newer 4G pump that they claim is quieter and has more bells and whistles, for $299 i have a problem thinking its a bad motor cause it does blow the fuse with a jumper wire...anyone with ideas???

perhaps, i do have a multi-meter(hence how i did the troubleshooting steps from link in a previous post i switched it out with a 5 blade from under the hood in the PDC, it blew the fuse in less than 60secs after the truck started. u are thinking the same way as me.your 1st two sentences are spot on. to the last question, yes. one off the steps on pureflow/airdog's troubleshooting webpage ( http://www.pureflowairdog.com/troubleshooting.php#pump-quit ) said to remove the airdog's relay and use a jumper wire to connect the yellow wire and red wire at the base. it is like the top. it does NOT have a fuse between the trigger wire. the fuse is in-line between the positive from the battery & the relay on the tests that i check for voltages all are normal. all continuity test came back good.

no, i'm using the airdogs harness, but removed the airdogs relay and jumpered the the yellow and red wires per the instructions. the pump runs and runs without blowing the fuse. when i use the airdogs relay or a 5blade in the PDC, it blows the fuse in under a minute(usually in seconds). so it leads me to believe it has something to do with trigger wires, but they seem fine....i'm stuck so i open to any suggestions

yes, with the 5 blade the fuse pops in approx 60 sec before blowing(that is after i "cleaned" the Gerotor). with the jumper wire, the pump runs until i shut it off. i had my left head friend who usually sees what i miss run thru the same tests. he suggested removing the relay in the airdog's harness and wiring a toggle switch into the relay base, since it seems to run indefinitely without blowing a fuse with a jumper wire. i am anxiously josh's(from pureflow) return call.

i have had my airdog150 for approx. 4 yrs. i have followed all the steps listed here; http://www.pureflowairdog.com/troubleshooting.php#pump-quit and on the step where u use a jumper wire in the relay base, the pump runs very well for ~20 mins with no problems or popped fuses. on the step where u use a 5 blade relay, it pops in about 20 sec of starting the truck. all other steps come back normal, so im at a loss.

sorry to raise a thread from the dead, but im having the same problem with blown fuse. i just removed the Gerotor and it was clean. the fuse pops after it starts. keeps popping over and over. problem started after i changed both the fuel filter and water separator. called josh @ pureflow tech support, but @ 4pm est we disconnected and the return calls goto voice mail. any help is welcome. im outside right now, but have my cell on me

i cut my exhaust off right b4 the resonator(had rodents in the exhaust....) its been like that for 3-4yrs and i love it. talking on the phone can be difficult but i enjoy the sound of a CTD over any other motor. some prefer a mustang 223 or a chevy 350. and drive thrus usually double time it to get my away from their buildings.

it doesn't seem that the pump puked, as it and everything under it are dry and clean. it seems it came from the gear box. is that what both of u are saying? i don't even see any kind of opening from which it came from, cause all the hose connections are dry. fortunately the gear box has a lifetime warranty from o'reily's.

hey guys, i got a problem. late last week my power steering barfed up all the fluid all at once and had no power steering. after crawling under the truck, the only place i can find fluid is on the front of the gear box. all the hoses and lines seem dry. the hoses are in the factory slit-loom and none of the loom has fluid in them. it didn't barf it from the connection on the gear box as far as i can tell and the area around and below the pump are dry also. i looks as if it all came out from around the circle in the front of the gear box (but i don't see any holes, just fluid). i'm about to pull it later tonight, but is there anything i might be overlooking? any suggestion or thoughts are welcome. thx in advance

that is essentially the same thing as the vulcan drawstraw, and vulcan's would look more professional and probably leak less http://9gbx7.hpqh3.servertrust.com/category-s/220.htm

when i learned about what 53 on the block actually meant, i was worried also. i learned that if it cracks its not going to stop running and most start weeping coolant b4 u have a huge problem. during each oil change i inspect the area known for the crack. also a company called Lock-N-Stich (if i remember correctly) makes a product to repair. i live in oklahoma (save the jokess) i use the following, every 2 years i flush the coolant, when i start up i wait for oil pressure, hold the pedal to create a high idle for 30 seconds, maybe 2 mins if its at or near freezing, and then drive. i believe fueling is related to engine load (as mike showed with high idle, 3 cylinder high idle, and with the exhaust brake) therefore it warms up much faster with a lite load than virtually none that u have at idle. on that note, every gasser i have looked at with a tool shows around 20-30% load at idle while my diesel shows single digit %, possibly one of the many factors that allow them to warm up faster. (i think i read somewhere that ENGINE LOAD is based on injector duty...ie 20% would be 20% of the max an injector can flow) more fuel= more heat. food for thought. hope that helps

on the other side of the jack, just a little closer to the center. keeps the stands away from the drums enough i can get in there to rotate that star wheel and slide the drums off.