rancherman

fmi, I was curious to what the mechanical range of the vp44's advance was? I know they are electronically adjusted, but what are the mechanical limitations? Is there anyway to monitor this advance?

That would've been me. I asked them (TD) about what exactly is done, and basically was told "If it ain't broke, it's reused" Plus the fact that the overflow valve is no longer included with the rebuilt pump (must buy new or re-use the old)... swayed me to DAP. (guaranteed NEW Bosch components). As for the 'It passed the 3 hour test, it MUST be good' theory, It STILL has X number hours from previous life. Heat and vibration have chewed into total service. How much life is left??? Might as well start out with Zero hours on the electronics.

I'm about like ISX, our 2000 6 speed I start out in 2nd, (empty), and shift pretty much by ear, which amazingly comes out right at the torque peak! (~1800). Loaded, I think shifting a little higher, (so engine is pretty close to it's peak after higher gear is engaged) would be 2100-2200. I really can't see any reason to push it further than 2500. There is plenty of torque to just 'pull another gear'

and it's 2 stroke to boot! I wonder what the stroke is, ( measured in feet? ) I'll bet even at 102 rpm, that piston speed is still pretty zippy!

sorry bout that~ I meant the LOW idle of those older trucks whether they had ample oil pressure @ those very low speeds! our factory stock is fine. Most of my ag tractors have a cable "Pull to shut off engine" and a person can slowly pull it out and reduce idle which the further you pull it out the slower the engine turns... eventually stopping the engine. At 3-400 rpm, my oil pressure is 10-20 sometime less on some tractors. I did this as an experiment years ago, I normally kill em quick!

I remember years ago, a lot of semi's would have a 'low' idle. I swear these things sounded like they were just barely ticking over. 3-400 rpm? Drivers would kick that in while parked instead of shutting it down, especially in cold weather.That was back when diesel was 20 cents a gallon too.. These days I notice most drivers will idle for a cool down period, then kill it. My trucker friend has automatic 'restart' when coolant drops below a certain point.I'd worry about oil pressure at those low speeds, Is there enough to keep the crank, rods, and cam floated?

Annual convention held in Texas this weekend, ushered in new president Jim Porter.I like what I read so far about this man.Statements so far include: 'fake president', Barack O'rabidly unamerican' attorney general Eric HolderWill hold all congressmen/senators ON RECORD who voted 'anti gun' in upcoming electionsHas made statements about training all US cititzens with 'standard military firearms' for the protection of self, family, and a tyranical govt....Has paralleled recent administrations as " Northern Aggression' (not unlike past Civil War) One thing for sure, he will certainly FAN THE FLAMES on both sides of this issue!

the 20% "bio" diesel marketed is actually 80% 'regular dino diesel' and 20% of the soybean/alcohol/dino diesel (blended altogether) to make up the 'bio-diesel' marketed. Total soybean content on the as-burned is not 20 % Funny thing about Texas and Oklahoma, and probably Wyoming as well.... 'Big Oil' doesnt really welcome soybean and corn byproducts elbowing out 10-20% of sales! My son was down there a year ago, and noticed a LOT of signs reading: NO ALCOHOL IN OUR GAS! I had some 'blended' fuel in an irrigation engine, which was fine because irrigation season is usually quite warm... The left over stuff that had to sit in the tank until next spring was cloudy, and plugged filters quite fast. I'd venture to say when it drops lower than 30* for an extended time, you are treading thin ice. That cloudy fuel still pumps, but the filter will stop it! (and foward travel too!) I've heard of people needing to run bio-cide to prevent the black gunk. ( algae which can grow in bulk tanks that has too much h20. (which the alcohol based 'bio diesel' will hydroscopically attract) It (bio diesel) has it's places, but you better know how to manage it

I have a Craftsman DVM, got 14.39 vdc, switched to VAC and it swept down to 0.00 Good to go. Thanks Mike

As to the 'why'.... All I can come up with is 'paranoia' !!I bought this tractor.. with 5100 hours on it. I put 200 hours on it before the original engine scuffed 1 piston.I did an inframe OH, and had the heads done at this time. replaced 1 scuffed injector.found how pricey/unavailable parts are for this engine.Put 200 hours on that rebuild before a rolled o ring scuffed another piston. Replaced THAT liner/piston... And invested in a dial-bore gauge. ( to measure remaining cylinders for distortion) lesson learned, I thought... Got the proper thermostats installed. (were 160's) 20 hours into THAT rebuild: scuffed piston.. different hole, different bank. Changed that liner and piston and new rod bearing. THIS time I went with all rebuilt injectors, set them with indicator, and am running extra lube for 2 reasons... 1. help out with the plunger life2. cold start lube.. It can't hurt the rings/pistons on cold start if there is a little more lube in there can it?Proper injector set up, newly rebuilt injectors, proper engine temp, proper engine warm-up/shut down, AND a little 'help' in the fuel tank = change of luck?:pray:I can now say with 20+ hours on this 'build', my rings have seated well, and possibly quicker with the oil in the fuel.Oh, the joys of buying used equipment!

well, I've only has this machine for a couple of years... and there is NO ONE still alive/or working that 'knows' this engine in my area! (if it don't have a plug in for computer diagnostics... it's obsolete!!) shush mike. I USED to set the injectors using the torque wrench method... I used 50 inch lbs. on the outer base circle of cam. I just didn't feel comfortable with the possible variations due to friction in the threads. So I got a tip extender for my dial indicator set.. and am doing the injector traved based on the inner base circle of cam. ............ my pointer on engine is LONG gone for setting valves/injectors.... Brad confirmed my 8/9 oclock VS markings. I was also worried that no mention was made to setting these injectors in a cold versus hot engine. He said it isn't an issue. hot engine oil isn't considered HOT. He also recommended running a little looser valve. .014 and .027 cold. They are a little rattley cold, but swell up nice. ( I'll probably stay with my .012 and .025 for now) The main thing I learned from him is HOW to 'run' this engine. Don't lug it too long, gotta give it a chance to recover. He then chewed my butt for putting the pyrometer pre turbo. (this engine is pretty shakey, and WILL snap off the probe). But still, no more than 1200* (I've seen 1025 so far) Keep it in the operating temp. 180-200 is good. Make dang sure it's up to temp before loading. Just as equal is a nice cool down. I asked him about all I've heard about running this thing wot all the time. "Only If you NEED it'. Personally, I like how it 'sounds' at 2400 rpm. 2700 is a little buzzy.. LOL I run 52-55 lbs oil pressure at 2400 rpm. He said I'm right in the middle for what's acceptable.. Had a quick theory session on the P/T injector.. (pressure/time) injector. pretty cool, and simple as a hammer. Basically, as engine slows from lugging, this gives more 'time' to fill injector with more fuel... effectively giving a power/torque rise. When it drops to even lower, the pump then kicks in more pressure. Besides the quick snap shot of 'tuning and running' this engine, He is the first guy I've talked to that didn't call this engine a 'Nine-oh-nothing' It was a nice change to the anti v8 naysayers! He said it's a good engine, BUT needs to be run a tad different than the inlines. I needed this info to confirm whether I made a bad investment in this tractor or not! Up in your part of the US, there were a lot of big Masseys, verseys, and steigers with this engine and most got/still getting the job done! They are 40 yrs old now.. Ive seen several write ups on the 855- n14 transplant. I'd probably do something like that if a catastropic engine failure happens. (more involved than what an inframe OH would fix)

Really? that is all that is needed to check for AC leakage: switch between DC and AC? Where to attach the test probes.. at the battery or right at the POS term @ alternator?

Gee wiz ! IF you would remember a post I did about a year ago.... about burning waste oil.... actually, I intend to do that. I have a pretty good idea on what filters to use to extract the bigger hunks, (and the small ones too) and with a little better method of storing the used oil (in the first place) I'd have better chance of getting a useable product. Sounds like the trick is to 'cut' it first with a little diesel fuel to get it through the filters easier. Plus time for settling/separating of water/antifreeze. All I need to do is get one assembled~! I just plunked down $$$ for rebuilt injectors, and I wanted to give em all the help they can get with the extra lube. wally world blue is just an interim BTW, I talked to 'Brad' (service tech) at Fargo Cummins... I got his name from a member on Agtalk.com forum. He has been pulling wrenches on these engines since 1976. Nice guy, and he SCHOOLED my butt with info not found in the service manual. You might know him? Tractor is parked today... 3 inches snow preceded with almost 1 inch rain. :woot:

Thank goodness this tractor 'only' runs 150-200 hours a year! I'm about half done with field work... probably need another 8-10 gallons of 2 stroke oil (in a pinch I put brand new conoco 15-40 in it this morning) already 'burned' through it! This motor gulps 1 gallon of fuel in just a tad over 3 minutes. (cummins 903)

already blew through 4 gallons of wally's blue 2 stroke oil, and need to be getting more pretty darn quickI suspect any non synthetic 2 stroke oil would suffice...So besides WalMart, what would be the next place to look? Do they offer it in 5 gallon pails? 30 gallon drums?

Engine # 58226569 [TABLE=class: fullscreen] [TR] [TD][TABLE] [TR] [TD][TABLE] [TR] [TD] PRINT ENGINE DATAPLATE [TABLE=class: box dataplate] [TR] [TD=class: tbl_header, colspan: 2]BASE ENGINE INFORMATION[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=class: col_header]Upfit[/TD] [TD=width: 60%]Original[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=class: col_header]Engine Serial Number[/TD] [TD]58226569[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=class: col_header]Vehicle ID Number[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=class: col_header]Shop Order #[/TD] [TD]SO98991[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=class: col_header]Plant[/TD] [TD]BEX - B-SERIES EXPANSION SITE[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=class: col_header]Build Date[/TD] [TD]07 Dec 2012[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=class: col_header]Warranty Start Date[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=class: col_header]Customer Number[/TD] [TD]99999[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=class: col_header]Customer Name[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=class: col_header]ECM Code[/TD] [TD]Not Available For This Engine[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=class: col_header]Fuel Pump Part #[/TD] [TD]5264247[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=class: col_header]Fuel Pump Calibration[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=class: col_header]Film Card[/TD] [TD]T[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=class: col_header]Engine Config #[/TD] [TD]D313010BB33[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=class: col_header]CPL #[/TD] [TD]CPL3698[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=class: col_header]EPA Model Name[/TD] [TD]0.0[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=class: col_header]Marketing Model Name[/TD] [TD]ISB6.7 350[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=class: col_header]Service Model Name[/TD] [TD]ISBE CM2150[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]© 2000-2013 Cummins Inc., Box 3005, Columbus, IN 47202-3005 U.S.A. Terms of Use and Disclaimers | Feedback [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]

will need to attack the balljoints on the 2000 ram, and I figured with the '98 probably needing it too, I'd snag a press and kit for removing/installing.Well, turns out the 2000 and up (until the AAM axle came out) uses a different set of tooling than the 1999 and down! What changed in those years? Mikes thread (the one that almost changed his friends' gender) said he 'got by' with the harbor freight press. Are most presses like this (getting by?) or is there something out there resonable priced, and effective?Seen several with the tooling that is 'close' but not perfect.. And I know that even the best made tool still will struggle under the worst case situation! Anyone have 'generally good luck' with a particular set?I'D sure hate to post 'before and after' pics of my various body parts!

our 2000 has a servo and cable running up to the vp44, and it's a six speed. Might be dealer installed cruise? :shrug:Check your truck just to verify if you have a servo under the driver side battery.

That's what I needed to know! (where the source of vacuum leak typically is) The oil leaks all over this thing made me start this whole process of 'search and rescue' any and all leaks.which originally started as a vp replacement, then steering gear r +r, front main seal, 'the right stuff' on the front cover, set the valves, new idler, belt, new ac condensor, fixed the broke peg on bottom of exchanger, hammered out the deer imprint in the front bumper.what still needs doing is replace ball joints, pull head and fix whatever need fixing there.

No intention of freaking you out! Worry more about the 'one' that is WAY different than the rest! You said they are pretty much 'even', and like the others said: might just chalk it up to someone elses valve set, or the way they were holding their jaw at the time! One mans 'snug' can be another's 'perfect'.. Now, If you happen to find one that won't hold its clearance... then you want to freakout! do you know the history on this truck? virgin motor? You the only one who's been inside her? (geez that looks bad) Just don't forget about em!

absolutely they'll tighten up... when the seat starts going away, valve will rise in the head and close the gap.Most of the time the wear on the ball ends, rocker arms and shafts, cam and followers will be more than seat erosion.. thus actually 'loosening'. (normally)When you find a 'tight' one, the valve or seat is going away. (abnormal)Usually found when a person does a poor job regrinding the seats/valves. Not so much on virgin heads.

We all know what our engine's blow-by looks like when it's warm/up to temp... minature vapor cloud/stream depending on the severity...How about when my son was cranking for about 10 seconds and I was bleeding off the HP lines? Just clear air.Same when allowed to start the other day.... about a minutes worth... just clean clear air. I had to check twice with my thumb to confirm there was air movement.... I could stop the air easy coming out the pipe, and in about 5 seconds, I could finally feel a little pressure under my thumb. There was a slight 'poof' when I let go but no steam or vapor.Safe to assume this is vacuum pump gone amuck? Most of my ag diesels will instantly have some variance of smoke, vapor, or bunny fuzz right at start-up.Got a Goulds' kit on the way.. I'll need to check the downstream lines too.I got my intake valve leak isolated... #1. I have a pretty good idea this was already on the way out, and opening up the intake system to do the IP allowed me to hear it! I gotta get some hay hauled asap, and I guess I am going to take a chance and run it as is until the truck can sit for a couple days.This could be a gamble, I am aware that if it is a foreign body, then there could be a large string of crap to R+R. But, if it's just a blob of carbon that needs a '3000 rpm tune up'... Either way, I'll know soon!

rag was stuffed immediately upon disassembly, and a thourough check for loose parts/debris before starting/cranking a unfiltered engine. I had this thing sanitized before cracking it open.99% certain nothing was sucked in during this check. LOL Hey, I've never had the top off the plenum.... what kind of view is there into each port? Can I see at least the first valve stem? I got the injectors out, and will hit each cylinder with simple compressed air and a rubber tipped nozzle to pressurize.. If I find a sizzler, I'll activate that valve a bunch and see if It dislodges a foreign body..

True on the different noises coming from unbuttoned components..When I crank the engine with the vp unplugged, and put my ear down by the air tube (where the heat exchanger would hook up)...I'll hear this: duh,duh,duh,duh,duh,phsssh,duh,duh,duh,duh,duh,phsssh etc etc.. Notice there is 5 'duh' and 1 phsssh. methinks I have an intake valve(s) issue. I truely thought I'd find a 'tight' valve this morning during the valve set. All were just a tad loose. I think if I'd had a simple head gasket trading compression between 2 cylinders, I'd have a noticeable miss in the exaust.... which sounds as smooth as a sewing machine. So, I'll fashion up a leak down tester and hit each cylinder at TDC, should hear the leak through the intake. Dagnabbit. This week's already shot to @@#%, It's only Sunday too! And it's supposed to snow again tomorrow.One 'known' about this engine, about a year ago, the wife was driving it when the belt broke, and it got REALLY REALLY hot. As in pegged. There might be something tied with that.