rancherman

Ok, yesterday I had a couple of issues, didn't want to keep running during cold start. After getting the engine warmed up and batteries totally charged, and warming up the suction screen ahead of the FASS drp, it fired right up and ran fine... I then proceeded to drive it back to my house from our shop. 1 mile. Got home and noticed a weird buzzing noise coming from under the hood, and immediately shut it down and popped the hood... the electric motor on the abs system was racing away. Even with the key off. It was starting to get warm, so I just unhooked the plug going into the motor. I've had the brake/abs warning light on for over 2 years now, I figured an axle sensor is kaput. Was going to remedy that when I got the axle apart for new ball joints this spring. any thoughts on what may be going on? The motor acted like it wasn't under any load at all, I was wondering if something broke./ came unhooked from whatever that motor drives... ie the valve that actuates the pulses to the brakes?? Then the computer sensed it didn't complete a test cycle and continued to run the motor??

ok, up and running! Not sure what 'cured' it... but this is what I did: put the battery charger on for a couple of hours, and plugged in the block heater. ambient temp is 30 today. Then I got my new Christmas present out! Dewalt hot air gun, and toasted the suction filter screen ahead of my new Fass 02. Then when it was too warm to handle, (its a metal housing g-2 type filter, but with a screen) I directed the heat on the final filter... One of 2 things may have kept me from starting this morning, a waxed over suction screen, or after cycling the grids 2 times, I didn't have enough battery to run the ecm (while grids were still cycling after start-up) my voltmeter on dash said I was way low during that time.... which shut down the fuel pump. Runs great now. I might have to rethink that darn screen though... OH, ALMOST FORGOT, after I got it running, my abs motor was racing away even after shutting down the engine.... I just unhooked the motor for now.. geeeezzzz

that's what I am hoping for.... I got it plugged in for both battery and block heater.... I'll get my hot air gun and warm up both the suction screen and the final filter.. should know in an hour! side note, I went out and tried bumping the starter, and fuel pump did run.. and engine did start *eventually* . It acted like it was out of fuel... (it probably was since pump wasn't running from earlier )... but it did fire up.... ran for 5 seconds, then died.

I had a frrp airdog on the truck about a month before the first vp flamed out. (last august). I kept the airdog on when installed the new vp from DAP at that time. I had about 15 lbs pressure at that time. I didn't like the sound the airdog was making last month, so I put in a Fass 02. been running 17 psi. Both times I've run the pump off the ecm, I know that 1693 code is a companion, that's why I dug deeper and found the timing issue in the injection pump.

got up to almost 30 this morning, so I thought it would start easy for me... ran the pre heat, bumped the starter to start the lift pump, then ran the pre heat again. It did fire a little, but then nothing. Rob said I didn't have any vapor during the crank. We pulled it about a half mile trying to start, and it did run momentarily. Then finally nothing. Just happened to have my reader on board, and I got a p1693 I knew that was a companion deal, and digging a little deeper on my code reader it had a timing issue in the vp. about this time I noticed my fuel lift pump no longer runs during crank and or after bump. Dang it, I'm getting tired of throwing money at this thing.. A new Vp last fall, and two new lift pumps since.

"recent new VP" somebody put the front seal in wrong, or damaged it during assembly- or reused original I always tighen cross over tubes first, THEN torque the injector. Too much grease will hydraulic the oring right out of the groove. Gotta be one of those 3 you said "its doing it again'....... makes me lean towards the front seal... your injector replacement didn't fix the problem the first time.

'balmy' here... only -8 but dead calm! It's actually quite nice compared to yesterday! had a heck of a time getting the stove to draw this morning....

Be careful on snow/ice until ya get used to it!

agree with WF. I've seen my neighbor weld up that nut, not just tacked, but full circumference weldment. shoot, it didn't make it a year. But he did it after 3 or 4 attempts. (lock tite, double nutting, drilled and pinned, then total welding) each attempt would last maybe 10 k miles... lord only knows how much slop he was dealing with! I am surprised he didn't bust the shaft after all that drilling, welding..... I wouldn't back off the nut to retorque... just make sure it's still @ 280, then go just enough more to index the retainer.

well, 2 thoughts here: it's made it this far, and with your style of operation, loosing 5th gear hasn't been a problem! I have to think most of the problems came from lugging too much in 5th, and the harmonics loosened the nut. (after the splines are slightly worn) Your style of driving apparently works! But then again, It might be on the verge of parting ways tomorrow. Sounds like that site you found has a pretty good retainer, and you could have it installed without dropping the trans. Did I read it correctly when they said their retainer costs about the same as a new nut?? If it were me, and getting thousands of miles from home, I'd probably do it. Just for peace of mind.

I've used Howes by-the-case over the years. It only works if you get it mixed with the fuel BEFORE it clouds. Probably the same with any additive. Then, there is the 'emergency' stuff: Diesel 911. Pretty expensive, It works, I hate/love the stuff, but keep it off your paint! Seems lately, our fuels around here have degraded in past years. The 50/50 blended fuels that used to handle any temp we'd see in my area suddenly can't handle 0* Some of it can be blamed on a poor blend, I'm beginning to believe problems are starting to surface with the transporter having residual bio fuel crud contamination too. I am starting to run a biocide in my bulk tank... algae that grows in my bulk tank will break loose in the cold weather. I'll 'shock' the tank once a year to knock it down. Algae? yepper, today's fuel has more water in it than before. Not the kind we can see on the bottom of the tank (that part is easy peasy).... this is the stuff that doesn't settle out, but the filter will 'catch' it! (then I am walking home)

yesterday it was a nice 58, and just about sundown, the wind whipped up and @ sunrise it was 4 below... I don't think I've ever seen a 62 degree drop in 12 hours.

yep... I'm 'legal' now. passed the 25 question written test (4 wrong answers) and THOSE answers are to subjects that have come up recently: more regulatory, and not actual driving action. driving test was easy peasy. hopped in the Toyota, backed out onto the highway, drove 1 mile @ 60 mph. Turned into a farm drive, backed out and headed back into town. Did 2 round the blocks in both directions, and nosed it back into the park spot in front of the court house. Now, as long as I don't get my card revoked, or suspended, (and as long as I don't change address or turn 72) I can re-new ONLINE every 5 years.

Ok, Just informed by my son.... Nebraska no longer issues direct OL... they issue the test, take my picture... but then it's sent to Virginia for processing. Really?? So, am I to assume it goes to Langley for 'adding to the data base'???

Ok, first of all, I hope everyone who presses the age of 50 doesn't become the forgetful Frank I've apparently become. Turns out, I've been driving for over 3 years with no OL. I've been all over the Midwest, out west to California to pick up my son after retiring from USMC.... but today, 30 miles from any town, and 1.3 miles from my ranch, State Patrol decided I was pulling my trailer too fast. After digging around for half an hour to 'find' an OP, he beat me to it. NO OPERATOR"S LICENSE. came the reply from headquarters. Luckily, my son happened to be along, otherwise he was going to have the whole shebang towed to town. 192 bucks for the speeding ticket and no OL. He was flabbergasted I went so long without one. 'how was that possible'? "I've been busy" was the only excuse I had. I really didn't have anything else to say! So, I've been taking the online sample test for nedmv... been scoring a constant 80-90 percent... I'll let you know tomorrow night if I am 'legal'. I think what screwed me up over the years, was before Nebraska went to a 5 year term on the operators license, I was set up on the 4 yr plan, and election year was my 'reminder'. I've not been 'carded' for such a long time that my license never saw the light of day.... until today.

rear main seal leaks mostly will drain out the bottom before getting back "up around, and then onto clutch face" unless of course the weep hole(s) are plugged... and there is a quart of oil in bottom of bell. but then again, I'd bet there is quite a hurricane of crap inside a closed housing, and anything is possible! Right now, I couldn't tell you where the inspection cover is, bottom or front of bell, but if you take it off, and see wetness even on the front of the flywheel and not dry dust... or if the flywheel is WASHED clean.... ahem... there ya go! Input seal leaks her right in the worst possible spot!

if memory serves, they had a tiny screen on the input side of the pump... I'd take it out and put in a larger inline screen (or two in parallel) Napa Gold has a nice one #3270.

besides having my kids and wife home, (and getting better every day) it's supposed to get above freezing today! DUCK COMMANDER gear now adorns our household! Geez, 3 grandkids with duck calls.... anyone have extra strength Tylenol??

Ok gotcha. most clutches I've had slip.... got worse as they heated up. (definitely worn) That's why I wondered about a possible leaky input shaft seal. Yours seemed to 'cure itself'... It doesn't take much oil or grease to make em slip!!... they'll chatter a bit too during release or engage with oil on them. how much clutch pedal travel do you have in high gear do you have before clutch starts to slip> with moderate throttle? If you just make a little pressure with your left foot maybe an inch max, and the engine bolts away, Id say its worn.

crawl under there and visually see if you have oil dripping/or soaked coming from around the bellhouse.you might have a soaked disk, and it took a little time for it to fling/burn off. This would be trans fluid, not engine oil. Were you parked downhill for awhile before you noticed it slipping?......either way, oil leak or worn clutch....... trans comes out.I've wondered too with various hydraulic actuated clutches if sometimes I get a 'hanging' clutch where the master cylinder won't allow the slave to fully retract..

my son's dodge stealth needed a new ECM... I found Global Solutions out of Rogersville Tennessee I sent them the bad ecm along with a pretty formal order form. Just for giggles, I scribbled a goofy picture on the case, just to see if I got my original back. I did. It cost me 189 bucks, ( I did it through ebay) and saved about 10 bucks over doing it directly through the front office. When I hit 'buy it now', I was given a link for shipping instructions, a shipping label, and a detailed order form. It was less than a week to get it back, I think 6 shipping days both way! along with a lifetime warrantee. If I need another one for any of my vehicles, I'd probably use them again. Ok, I just went there (ebay) and didn't see one listed for our cummins applications, but you might want to check out their website to verify. autoecu.com looks like they also do dashes and radios too.

Looks like a drawn out winter this year.... and as I watch my electric bill soar I'd like to buy a good 24 hour timer for my main chore tractor. It's the one I jump in every morning at sun up. Instead of having it plugged in all night, I wish to have it come on about 3 hours before hand. If I know I'll be going to town after chores, that's when I'll plug in the Dodge. any recommendations on a good outdoor timer? I'd think one up to 1500 watts should handle my tractor. Usually, we get a blast of cold, then it tempers within a few days. So far, it's been zero or less every night since almost Thanksgiving...

my airdog frrp lasted about 2000 miles this summer, so I put the newer stock carter on it just to get by. 2 weeks ago I posted a myriad of cold start problems, either fuel, fuel delivery, or just too dang cold issues. So, besides lucking out with a break in that cold snap, replacing filter, and dumping in more #1 and conditioner, I noticed the carter was not sounding very healthy too. For this go round, I put on a Fass drp 02. I got it bolted up, blue line cut to length, banjo fittings pressed in, and proceeded to 'blindly' cut the flex line for the addition of the supplied suction filter. I intended to have that filter somewhere the starter motor, frame rail, and brake lines wouldn't rub. (plus try to keep it as close to engine heat as possible). As soon as I cut it, I was screwed. For some reason I never thought the 3/8ths flex hose was just a sheath protecting the 5/16ths (or metric equiv.) hard plastic liner. The reason I said 'hard', was because it was 3 below zero that day.... and very unforgiving of rebending/moving without kinking. All forward progress that day ended. Trip to town for 4 foot of 3/8ths fuel injection line, (looks like normal fuel line, but has a thin liner) and a napa gold 3270 inline 3/8ths 140 micron screen. I've never been a fan of pulling through a filter, that's why I left the fass supplied fram G 2 filter in the box!! Seriously?? it was 5/16ths, but no way in heck I was going to stuff that into a rock hard factory line.. I cut the factory line off the steel frame line, and my new 3/8ths slipped perfectly over. a couple of worm clamps on each side of the flare, I was in business. I put a temp gauge on my shrader fitting, and it appears to idle with 18-19 psi. When weather permits, I sure would like to run a minimum of 3/8ths from tank all the way, PLUS I'd like to 'manifold' (in parallel) 2 of these screen filters. Plus run a permanent fuel pressure gauge. I've seen talk in here with the needle valve for dampening the sending unit.... how about these snubbers I found on ebay for 19 bucks? they have a 8 thousanths hole in the bolt that replaces the factory banjo fitting bolt... and goes to a regular pipe fitting for attaching the sending unit. Seems like a sanitary way to kill 2 birds with one stone... I'm bone stock, and no plans for any 'upgrades' to this. THIS pump got 'registered' as soon as I got it from DAP! (thanks dap for shipping fast!)

or down 'south' where all soda pop is considered 'Coke'. It took me half an hour to get me a Pepsi one time...

my son left Missoula yesterday with my newly purchased toyo pickup. I don't know if he'll be able to keep ahead of your storm... he should have a good tail wind though!