rancherman

I run 2 napa gold 3270's in parallel. They are 3/8th's though. Those filters are a metal clad 'g-2' type but use a screen instead of a paper element. Nice thing about the metal clad part: When they gel up... (and this winter has been a 'test').... the metal is very 'heat gun' friendly!! Can't clean these, throw them away. Mopartechnician says there is 1/2 inch ones out there. ( any chance on where you are getting them???) hint hint... I been looking at various ag sprayer type cleanable screens. Only problem with those is the seals are not diesel compatible.

Yep, IMB been around a long time. And just like all suppliers these days, they may or may not build all their own parts. Probably not. You will find quite a global mishmash of sourced parts in your kit. ( no different than anybody elses). Are you getting a warranty from the shop, since 'he' is going to assemble it? 1400 sounds about right, figure about 600-800 for actual machine work, and about 600-800 assembly charge.

yes

After you do the fuel swap, I'd start it first, before draining the oil. She's been sitting 5 years, and NEEDS oil asap.. draining it and changing the filter NOW just delays it more. Take a swipe on that wetness on the tank and smell it. You know what diesel smells like? Almost punky, skunky. I wouldn't worry too much about it unless you see a puddle on the floor. 5 years, there should be quite a spot on the floor! As far as the 'swap', nah, keep it in that truck. If you need to do something with your 02, It'd be cheaper to fix/ find the right 'take-out' from the proper year. The seal on the transfer case (and probably other seals on the whole drive line) just may need some 'exercise' to come back to life. Get it running, drive it, and keep an eye on it. Have fun!

Yah, I was surprised too at the fineness of the plastic. I have a feeling it was down in the pan for quite a few miles. Pieces ranged from just big enough to be stopped by the screen, all the way up to half inch chunk. I've seen the write ups on building serious HP on these little mills, It takes a lot of bucks! I think the **** had pretty much 'found' the easy power already... If I ever get a wild hair, I think putting a 3.4 v6 would be more bang for the buck.. I'll get her cleaned up and some pics later this week. **** ????? really???? oh, excuse me! Japanese.

I'm planning on basically duplicating ISX's set up. ~400??? I'll need to get the right flywheel, mine is the smaller one for the 5 speed. Plus the starter motor spacer. my 'yota is really easy to clutch now, (amazing what a little grease in the right place will do) Too many equate stiff pedal with 'strong clutch'. Not always true, a dry sliding release bearing takes a fair amount to overcome.

There was pretty good chain trail carved into the timing cover, but I couldn't see any wear-through holes... and reused the cover. I'm glad I pulled the engine though! The only way to remove the oil pan, is either pull the engine, or drop the front differential.. Sure nuff, the ground up guide rail was down there plugging the intake screen. I got MUCH better OP now! especially at idle! new oil pump, Cloyes timing set, water pump, new head complete with new valves and springs, new cam, new flywheel and Luk clutch... TOTAL: $678 (Oh, the benefits of buying parts for probably the most popular engine since GM's 350!... Lets just say the aftermarket is pretty flooded!) Although, the Aisin brand OP and WP (OEM) said "Made in USA" on the box! Dang brand new flywheel was 48 bucks... I couldn't take my old one in to be ground for that! I was getting 18-20 mpg before the freshening, hopefully I can keep it north of 20 now. FIL, with his brand new 2014 chev 1500, probably gets better than me.. but MINE IS PAID FOR!

Man, you really have confidence in our advice to take a 1200 mile trip! SURE GLAD IT WORKED OUT!!! I just noticed your tire size and gearing... makes perfect sense now about your 'noise'. I have 3.55's and stock tires... I intentionally shifted today at 1100, and got your symptoms, but shifting at 1400 all was well. I'll be purchasing a clutch set up for my 98 pretty quick.. so I'll be shopping!

that stuff must be pure evil.. or your customer parks his truck in a heated shop overnight... You sure he's been only burning #2? It might be just what we need! JAG: I got a msds Material Safey Data Sheet on a product they call Artic formula. They have a lot of products... I figured this may be the one. only talked about the hazardous ingredients.. Isopropyl alcohol, Aliphatic hydrocarbons, and Tolulene. How to extinguish a fire, what to do if spilled, etc.

pretty sure it got hot.... couple clues 1. new radiator. Can only assume old one was either plugged, or leaked like a sieve... 2. after removing the head, the cam didn't want to turn freely. the head was warped, and bound up the cam. 3. deck surface was fine... no pitting I put in a slightly longer duration cam, good for 5-10 horsepower gain.... Don't laugh, this thing only runs 95hp. I put in 4 hole injectors too.. might help with responsiveness. I got it for a gopher truck, and compared to an 'open cab' sideXside I think this machine will fit me to a 't'.

I think people tend to ASSUME (if they've mastered a certain task) that it should be common knowledge... and forget that there are new people asking the same questions.... day after day. They become almost hostile and very short with answers.. (Oh, but if you 'mod' your vehicle with a chrome plated ball scratcher..... suddenly, a 'guru' is born) I appreciate links, and especially links that work! Most guys don't mind the reading, and picture viewing is a must. Far too many pics have been deleted by author.... Geez, the 'rabbit trails' I chased this past week!!! Too many of their 'stickys' have been watered down/ confused by too many non-related comments, or comments that sabotage the original intent... possibly too many moderators??? I dunno. Theoretically, from what these guys state, there shouldn't ever be a new post in their beloved site.. because ANY problem has already been 'solved'......."just search for the answer". pbbbbbt. The billion of these trucks still roaming this planet.... you'd think SOMEONE out there has scanned fsms! In here, you have the knowledge base, your articles, and of course, the 'FSM'!.... Plus, you and others will link them in their posts. There are several forums about these little pickups... I might of not picked the right one for my needs. Still, It made me appreciate the family here, even more! I find it fun in here after posting a problem/question..... I can almost predict what kind of answer from the various members... One could almost say this is not only a forum for cummins/dodge tech, but almost a blog type atmosphere that revolves around people that own dodge/cummins... I am sure fortunate to have found mopar1973man.com

well, my experience with my new-to-me Toyota pickup was pretty good the first month. My son drove it from Montana back to Nebraska right after Christmas. This is a 1994 4x4 22re 5 speed. The 22re is a 2.4L 4 cylinder.. It had some timing chain rattling, and clutch was slipping some. Pretty much expected on 185,000 miles. But, the body and frame is rock solid. Then the head gasket let go..... sigh. Time to break out the metric wrenches. I joined yotatech.com a forum site for similar 'yota' enthusiasts! ( I see AH641D lurking in there too!) And while there is a pile of info to be learned, it is painful in that site. I wonder when a site gets 'stale' and there is thousands of members, (countless new threads on the same subject.... beaten to death...and still no REAL answer) I read more posts in there that berated a new member for NOT 'searching'... time after time. Gee, reviewing hundreds of 10 year old posts until blood ran out my eyes, reading posts with 'helpful pics', (which were removed by OP) and reading thousands of replies such as "Oh, man, I got the same problem... I feel your pain". " Sucks to be you" " why are you pulling the engine anyway?" "Fix it this way" "Fix it THIS way" or the classic....."Get a FSM..." Lets just say, running a search on any dang subject almost caused instantaneous high blood pressure, heart burn, lower intestinal cramp, gout, possible epilepsy, tooth loss, and partial blindness. Kudos for Mopar1973man. My medical condition is much better after spending time in here! Meanwhile, I am in the finishing up stages of the trucks' mid life crisis! I yanked the engine. You can't remove the oil pan to clean out the digested timing chain guide rail... without either removing the front differential, or pulling the engine. Out it came! Replaced the clutch and flywheel. (new flywheel is cheaper than resurfacing old one) New head and cam. (again, almost as cheap as rebuilding my old head)... new oil pump, water pump, timing set WITH HD guides, and upgraded the injectors to 4 hole injectors. I eventually pulled the trans to re attach to engine.. and went back in the bay as one. In the finishing stages of wiring and plumbing, need to get back under and reattach the driveshafts and exhaust..... Then, ON TO MORE EXCITING PROJECTS! Weather finally 'broke' here, got up to almost 50 yesterday! Nice to be able to start a nut, without it freezing to a finger!

Jasper??? Did Chrysler stamp the block with the vin sequence # ? It'd be fun to see if it was the original engine. You could go to cummins.com and run the cummins # and see what vehicle it was assigned to. That 'chip' on the valve, does it look like it was broke.. (ususally will bend the valve stem, but not readily visible when valve is closed) or flame cut?

this vibration is noticeable when the clutch is engaged? (foot off the pedal) Is it an actual vibration, or is it a growling/buzzing 'noise'? or both? dang, at 1100 - 1400 rpm, I don't think any of us are making enough torque to slip a new clutch, unless something is hanging up. Check to see if all the ujoint straps are tight too, and no cross bearing caps have disappeared. I don't know if this is possible, but your rear shaft is a 2 piece. There SHOULD be a indexing notch. which 'times' the 2 halves of the driveshaft. (at the slip joint). If out of phase, there would be a very nasty vibration... but you say yours goes away! Ok, I re-read your post on the new noise... and noticed you said " vibration @ 1100-1400 in 4,5,6th gear." (upon acceleration) That is too low! the above posters nailed it with driveline growl.. Even on very light acceleration, I don't like to let the engine drop to less than 1400- 1500 after the upshift. Especially in the higher gears.

Please elaborate on this! (your theory) And, are you saying egt or combustion chamber temp is higher?

Run out of air? 1. fire up your air compressor that is buried in the back.. and probably out of gas. 2. swipe some air from another truck.. 3. call your buddy for his mobile compressor. 4. if your starting air is part of your brake air, you can't pull.. brakes are applied! 5. 'hand pump'. about 3 hours of FURIOUS pumping... 6. walk home.

heck no... the old Golden Rod 'standby' system! GEEZ!!! (yes, Mike, that was a funny!)

hey, just for giggles, would a 100 pound propane tank (converted for compressed air) be enough volume/storage for startup? A guy with an old Pete demonstrated 4 start ups before he was out of air... LOL< keep an old bicycle pump under the seat for emergency use??

I agree with Tom, you replaced the injectors first, THEN cooked off 2 cylinders.... and I'm guessing you are heading down the same path again!

It's fun to watch some threads 'digress'...

Those air starters have always been on my 'cool things that are different from the crowd' list. I am afraid that if I ever am backed up to the cattle load out chute, the start-up might cause a major stampede.... It'd be awesome to drive thru Mickey-D's, shut her off so the kid on the other end of the intercom can hear over the 5 inch straight exhaust, only to be 'DRILLED' by the scream of the starter!

Only take in what needs to be machined/measured. Machine shops don't like to disassemble.. I've been charged for having them remove a couple frost plugs I forgot. Block, Crank, Rods, Head with valves. Leave everything else home. (valve train, cam, oil pump, anything that bolts on the outside of the castings, (too easy to lose stuff) re install the main caps, and rod caps. They are needed at the shop. Take the injectors to a shop for testing/setting. Have you asked them about what they can get for kits? They can get anything you or I can order, but most shops work out of a main supplier, and sometimes they'll pass on the savings to you, if you use their shop for the machine work. Seeing how you are going to use your truck, I'd put most of the 'mods' into the trans. I haven't kept up with 'what's the best for automatics' That seems to be an on going evolution... I'm sure the auto guys will chime in for 'current mods' to get a long lived trans

John, 10.5v during crank is about all your going to see.. Especially on a cold start.

Wow! most of us in here are short a finger or two! When I get my fuel gel pics up, I'll post a pic of my short index finger.. (trigger finger) New thread?? " what is missing on you?"

That's faith in your product! I've seen the hot dog thing a few years ago, but never a real finger. I wonder if something needs to be on the table, such as your free hand in order to 'complete' the circuit? His palm was down on it. but when ripping a piece, I usually have both hands on top of the wood... which is insulated from the table.. Cross cutting, usually have a hand on the miter guide.