rancherman

well, your nasty fuel economy gotta be something other than the injectors... cause it's basically the same with either set of injectors. how long has it been this way... did it come on suddenly.. or gradually sink... or been this way the whole time?

is there anyway you can see what the amps you are drawing for just the pump motor itself? Where is the fuse located that keeps blowing... the pump supply, or the signal/trigger side of the relay? I'd think that since you've eliminated the harness for issues, by jumpering around the relay.... it's gotta be the relay.

I'll try to find the grease-able ones, without the adjustment feature. Thanks!

well, by high end, I meant difference in price. ~ 25 bucks for low, and around 125 for one that was adjustable/greaseable/glowed in the dark.

not only is there cheapo and high end ball joints available, but there is a choice of 'adjustable' caster/camber +/- 2-4 degrees. How in the heck would I know what I'd need, UNTIL new joints are installed??? There is no way I could get anywhere close to 'true' reading as shot as my current joints are! Is there a common problem on these dana's that an automatic 2 or 4 degree adjustment will correct? Or are these offset joints for the lifted guys... I am assuming they are only adjustable as to the way they are pressed home... after that, you have to drive em out and clock em to the right spot..... right??

I agree with getting advice from accountant, but I'd seem to me you should be able to do whatever you want with any assets... since there is no bank lien. Now, on the other hand, IF business shows a loss for the year, and it reduces or eliminates tax on the business, (red flag to IRS) you might have to do the 2 step shuffle to prove the reduced sale wasn't 'forced'..... you as an individual would then have to pay some sort of 'gift tax' .... lets say you had 10k worth of goods, (that you've already deducted/depreciated when purchased) and you 'sell' it for 1k.. You as an individual probably would have to pay a 'gift tax' on the 9000 difference.. unless you resell the goods again in your name... then you'd only pay the difference in what you'd sell it for (the second time) uggg... you better go see the tax man!

I don't have a tractor that doesn't lope when cold, (stone cold @ 32 or less) either NA or turbo'd. JD, perkins, or cummins.... they do it all. how is yours starting..... does it crack right off, is it 'fighting' the starter? your 4000 psi = 275 bar.. Sounds about right to me. when's the last time you checked your turbo?

I just realized, my Toyota pickup 5 speed has dang near a perfect gap all they way through the gears.. ring ding ding all they way up to 5th. I have just over 2000 miles on it since I bought it last month.... I now know why the clutch pedal pad is missing! ha... worn off! I truly believe the starter motor has more torque than the actual engine! but, it's perfect for what I need it for!

hey all, did AD ever admit/confess to the batch of poor motors? (they alone should know of exact serial number of where it went south!) And of course, when they 'fixed' it. (they DID fix it didn't they?) Ltk, you said you swapped in a higher fuse.... so DID IT WORK???

I gotta admit, the Toyota I bought last month has the free spin hubs.. and with it's whopping 112 horsepower, IT DOES MAKE A DIFFERENCE!!! I forget, does the spyntech hubs use Timken bearings?

you'll have to establish if you definitely have 12 volts to the pump when it's supposed to be there. Do this at the closest plug to the pump, or even stab the wires right at the motor itself. Then, if you do have 12 volts, make sure you have a good ground for the return side of the circuit... If you do, then ya got motor troubles. If no voltage, check your relays/fuses (both dodge and airdog supplied) plus (I think you already made sure, but check your wiring along the way)

"felt" is a good term... at least with my bone stock cummins. But, I've been driving this 00 for 10 years too. Now that I think I have the 'feel' for this truck, both overloaded and empty, I'd say it's about perfect for the way IT HAS TAUGHT ME HOW TO DRIVE IT. My first experience with a diesel pickup was a 1996 dodge 5 speed, I guess at the time I didn't 'dread' or despise the transmission, I just learned to operate the vehicle so it wasn't dogging it.. When the 2000 came along, I found quickly that the cummins didn't have to be pushed quite as hard to progress through the gears.. without much thought. but that is ME. Others will have different results!! If the od is used as a gear 'after acceleration is done' then the 'jump' isn't nearly as noticeable. But, put a guy or gal behind the exact same truck and if they short shift into od whilst still going up a hill, loaded, into a nasty head wind.. and they'll cuss the very transmission as being 'way to wide'. As for me, I got the nv5600 almost ready to put into the 97. I don't hate the 4500, but I am spoiled by the first 5 gears of the 5600!

I didn't know the 4 cylinders used the vp44 pump.. I thought they went from old style rotary, then either p7100 or rotary, then cp3. In fact, the cp3 16 valve 4bt was out in ~1999. Ah, well, it's a pretty big world, with lots of different end uses. That 'cam' that actually follows the roller in the 'high pressure' side... I'd think that could be up for possible 'tweaking' by the aftermarket/ full tilt guys. (not saying there isn't a lot that can be done electronically already!) It'll be nice to see actual parts on the bench! Good thread.

shoot, last person I knew that dialed '911' on their cell phone around 'here'... ended up talking to a dispatcher in Pennsylvania. but didn't realize it until they figured out dispatch was having a hard time finding them on a 'map'. Precious minutes were wasted. Most of us 'know' the people on the response teams and have their personal numbers in contacts. I thought it was Fed law that NO firearm can cross any State line (even private sale) without going FFL. My local gun shop dude, says when he sells a firearm, the paper work that gets filled out STAYS with him. It never gets 'turned in'. The only time it might get turned in is IF The gun is found as an instrument of a crime. Then those serial numbers are taken to the mfg. The mfg. will then say where the gun was sold, and so on..... until the LAST known owner is found.... (That poor dude better have a dang good reason HE didn't have the gun in possession at time of crime!) saying "it was stolen" (especially if he never reported it) doesn't work! I don't have a permit to carry, but I do have a 'permit' to purchase. It's just like a DL, and good for 3 years. I can go to any shop, show, and walk out the door with anything but a handgun.... still have to wait (cool down period??)

well, if it was me, I'd do the momentary switch.. Most older equip that came with GP's had them anyway. You KNOW your tractor... and probably have a good idea on how long to hold the switch for various temps. typically, our Bobcat with the Isuzu diesel will need about 5 seconds @ 32, 10 seconds @ 15 , and 15 seconds @ 0* (it's got a countdown display on 'wait to start' ) I don't think being off a couple of seconds, or even 5 is going to crack your gp's. They are pretty tough!

Don't rely on the filter minder as your only means of watching your filter...... take it out and look at it, Blow it out every time you change oil, or more if in dusty conditions..

wow, didn't realize they were that economical. It probably needs to be done and take some load off the ecm. mike, you are right, the 30 amp is way plenty.. but the actual load on it would be far less.. and I'd put in a 15 or less amp fuse in the LOAD side. might go a tad higher on the supply side, right at the relay itself. (just in case the relay goes berserk/shorts out)

yep. When 'shorts cleaning' is mentioned, you definitely nailed it with the right terminology! have someone turn the steering wheel side to side about 1/8 turn..... while you are laying in front of the truck, head under stabilizer bar. You will see the frame moving side to side before the tires actually pivoting.. That'd be the track bar ball socket worn. If your truck is a 1994, verify which track bar you need ( they had 2 choices in 1994) They had two different tapers for the hiem joint. Track bars , even though they look like a heck of a chunk of metal, (they are!) are not too expensive. I've use the MOOG bar less than 100 bucks. Now would be a good time to check for other worn pieces too,.. steering tie rods are probably getting a little tired too, then ball joints.

Closupman, your 10 second run time sound just like mine the other day. You used up what fuel that was in the line between the filter and IP. Earlier this winter, mine did it because I was caught with my pants down and below zero temps...(fuel wise that is) My lift pump was running, but very little was getting to the IP.... I had slime on the filter (wax). You might be far enough south in Ill. to not have quite enough #1 blended. Then, after getting the right fuel, new filter, and plenty of additive to 'melt' the cloudy fuel already in the tank... It's been good until yesterday! ('nother issue!)

Only place I can find separate #1 and #2 is an actual truck stop. (besides what I have delivered here But, it's RED ... ) The in-town pumps might have diesel, but one pump/nozzle. If all else fails, I'll use a little kerosene.

No, no relay for the Fass. just run off the ecm... in a pinch, could I just wire up a dedicated circuit (fused of course) I'd run a wire from positive 12v batt, to the pump, then run the common back through to a switch inside cab and then ground. I have several tractors that have a switch in the cab for running the lift pump.... so it's 'SOP' for most in my family to flip the pump on. But, does the ecm need to be hooked up to either a relay, or the pump itself in order to 'talk'?? Just trying to save a little $$ from not having to buy a relay....

Im sure it's fused, I just did it at the motor because it sounded like it was turning 10,000 rpm, and getting quite warm. I'll probably pull the fuse and reconnect the motor, just to keep crud out of the connector. Speaking of connectors, Is there ANYWHERE a person can find out how to disconnect various connectors? I swear, each one is it's own maze of locks, snaps, and barbs..

well, sure!

the first plug we unhooked yesterday (the big one on top of module) did make the speedo quit.... as well as the motor. That's when we spotted the motor-run plug. I'll check for ac noise, I do remember having extremely high volts on dash right after starting the engine yesterday.. It was pegged for about 10 seconds.... but came back to earth, and been rock solid at 14.5 volts since. I'll snag the module off the '98 to see if that's all i'll need, I might just get the burnt one rebuilt. A quick search tells me rebuilding mine will run about 50-60 bucks, One ready to install is about 200. Thanks!

so, for now, running the motor unhooked won't affect other electronics? (throw codes in pcm ) ahem, I guess I've never been a total advocate of abs.. this may not get fixed 'right away'.