rancherman

other than some discoloration on the wheel, I can't make out if it's actually 'wet'??? He said something about oil found in the cooling part of the system, I assumed the charge cooler??? (pardon my "PERKINSese' ) >Aftercooler> for the rest of the crowd.. Geez, just how much oil is put in those loaded filters?? shoot, I got an old JD with OIL BATH filter, and never had any sucked into the intake... (I'll admit, its all 'uphill' on a JD to the intake, whereas our cummins is level-to-downhill to the turbo)

man, it can be a 'crap shoot' out there on the road! High volume truck stops is about the safest bet in the winter.

to answer your original question... Yes, the trans can stay behind. You have to block it up, Don't forget that it's blocked up and try to move the truck later! (have the truck pretty much where you want it for the duration) blow by doesn't go through the intake system. Your downstream oil of the turbo (in the cooler) is coming from the turbo itself, (seals are bad) I've seen extremely plugged air filters that would make so much vacuum, that it would overcome the seals and deposit oil into the air stream... (but the engine barely ran anyway). A lightly oiled filter won't put that much oil in the cooler.. I've seen terribly worn valve guides put oil back into the intake. but that was on naturally aspirated diesel. I vote on the turbo bearing and seal

Your 'black' oil at 50 miles probably isn't as dark as you may think! When it's on a solid object, such as a dipstick, it looks almost like ink doesn't it? Take a dab and smear it out on clear glass.... it looks a lot more amber all of a sudden!

I still believe that running a conditioner that keeps the parafins dissolved.... along with a lube such as 2 stroke is no way problematic. (just my own experience) I have not experienced any problems in 2 really bad winters running the combo. This truck will sit for a couple weeks, outside, so there is plenty of time for all sorts of nasty stuff to happen in the tank. I'm comparing 'typical' winters of the past 'without' 2 stroke, and the past 2 'with' 2 stroke. I've always run 50/50 'advertised' fuel in my bulk tank. (whats actually in there is anybody's guess!) When the temp looks to go below zero, then I'll make sure there is added conditioner too. I only put the conditioner in the actual machines tank... not the bulk tank. It's when I get fooled by mother nature, or just forget to get something treated, that's when I have problems. Zero degrees seems to be my magic number for most of my diesel engines, on untreated fuel. When it drops below, that's when I'll start adding the PS or howes. I've run a lot of gasoline/oil mix older snowmobiles, and never had a paper fuel filter plug because it's too cold.... Anyway, to make this post full circle, I still believe that any 'cancelling' effect of running these 2 products is actually good: the conditioner no doubt makes the fuel drier, but the 2 stroke adds the lube! the 'net' result still has to be better than a 'dry' fuel! I am just one test mule, but I haven't seen MORE problems running the two. I haven't seen any accelerated clouding when the 2 stroke is added. When I do have problems, It's cause I screwed up second guessing Mother Nature!

after you get it warmed up with the block heater...couple hours... and If you know you have fuel to the ip, just try cranking it. It might take a couple 10-15 second stabs.. but should eventually start. (a little rough at first) Then, if you need, just crack 2-3 of the easy to reach lines.. No doubt.... it is a defecating day.

ok, the pics I've got are actual hold in your hand pics.. and I won't waste too much time searching for them today. I do however have a tractor that's now 'down'... and I'll take some fresh digital pics. Give me a little time.

dang it... I've got pics SOMEWHERE of fuel I got in mason jars... various stages of cloudiness, ranging from clear, to dang near opaque. I have pics of crud taken off the filters... The one I really want to share is the 'ice crystal' one! Then, there's always the biodiesel/wintertime conundrum.. that should be it's own thread! oh, algae too!

First signs of gelling will be found (of course) at the filter. (it's the first place where there is a 'restriction'.. LOL) fuel in a non moving vehicle will start to 'cloud' at the coldest place first: along the edges of the fuel tank, and the fuel lines first... well, fire up the engine, and those little 'clouds' will start stacking up! The filter stops em every time. It actually takes a chemical, or a lot of warm fuel to put it back into solution. (that is, if fuel can still flow through the filter) I'd bet, even though most in here (above the mason Dixon line) are still running, if they went out and took their filter off, they would see at least 25 percent of the filter covered with snot. Especially true if truck is used as a short tripper. As far as the 'cancelling out effect'..... I think that is a GOOD idea! Think about it... you have a chemical that is cutting the heck out of our fuel, so it won't cloud up.... I'd sure think putting an oil back in there is exactly what is needed! That 2 stroke is designed to flow at 50 below, and putting it in at 1% solution sure isn't going to make it worse! Gelled filters are just a million little 'clouds' all gathered up nice and tight! Reminds me of my ol FIL, he'd say : "don't use these dang brand X filters!!! They just keep plugging up!"

socal, Not all 53 blocks are doomed. Plenty in here with a LOT of miles, and still humming along. Yours apparently falls into that class TFaoro, My 2000 has both, crank sensor is just above (and kinda hidden) by the starter, and threads directly into the side of the block. * Ok, it pushes in a hole, and a bolt keeps in place.* The cam sensor is part of the timing case, not the block.

I'd only use the 911 as needed. (something tells me that stuff may not be too friendly on seals/rubber) I used plenty this fall, in just about every diesel powered machine I have... but have been getting by since religiously keeping howes or power service in the mix. The power service stuff claims they have 'slik diesel' lube added...(if that makes a difference!) The underground supply tanks are keeping the fuel above ambient temp, and putting in the conditioner as you fill will help the fuel much more than as an afterthought. (which most 'conditioners' really don't help AFTER the fuel is snotted up. Mike said he is shocked at the amount of fuel problems this winter. Just goes to show that the quality/standards in fuel oils has tanked. I've burned a LOT of fuel in the last 35 years.... it's pretty obvious in the changes! Plus are the service stations being totally honest with us on their claimed 'blends'??? Not to mention if you've had biodiesel contamination.... That's a whole nother matter. I've been running 2 stroke and whatever conditioner is warranted (seasonally) for a couple of years. I am no chemist, but all I can say is I don't believe I've had any detrimental results.. I actually feel 'safer' with the 2 stroke in there, along with the conditioner.

I'd like to implement this behavior 'mod' to everyone in politics! Good post 'MOM !

I'd give it ~500 miles to seat/break in. LOL, I remember the good ol days of putting the front bumper against a tree, and burn the snot out of it to 'speed' up the process! Meaning: try to keep engine rpm low as possible/matched to trans input as possible, NO high speed dumping of clutch, jackrabbit starts, pulling contests, drag races.. geez, I sound like my Dad! This is just for the engage/disengage part.... after it's hooked up, drive like ya stole it. your question about the fork, I was forced to 'let' the dealer change out our 6 speed about 5 yrs. ago. (don't criticize... I didn't have a choice!) I supplied them with my own rebuilt trans, They were only used for the R and R part. anyway, less than a year later, the clutch was totally gone, (wouldn't release) broken diaphragm springs, the fork was all bunged up.. My trans guy (independent) said the fork may not have been installed on the right side of the fulcrum.. or some little retaining clip? Or it may have worn out totally! Now sure would be the time to inspect/replace!!

gravity. keeps the lifters down. They'll catch on every lobe, and bearing journal after getting the head off, I'll flip the short block up on it's end, remove the pistons. Then flip it again so the deck is face down. Remove crank, and THEN cam. 'flip' is a pretty generic term! I put a wood pallet across the legs of my cherry picker, and that is a impromptu work bench.. although a little low for an aging back! Use the hoist to wrassle the block around. I prefer to have the block sitting flat, as opposed to hanging on a stand. Especially when it's time to torque the main caps and head. Actual heavy duty stands attach to the side of the block, which helps limit block flex. (too much $$$$ for my shop!!) DO NOT HANG BLOCK FROM REAR FACE TO RE-ASSEMBLE

I agree with Mike. If you've done a few gassers, the diesel shouldn't have any surprises for you, or anything in there that'd be 'whoa, what the heck'! Your lifting equipment may disagree! ( spine, arms, oh yes: engine stand (I ususlly do a diesel on-the-ground) and of course the actual hoist to yank it) I have a 1.5 ton cherry picker (cheapo) that I guess is barely adequate.. lets just say if I did it every day, I'd look into a heavier unit. For my big engines, I got an overhead. As far as kits, and who supplies them, my local cummins service dealer says by the time these engines are pushing 20 years old, Cummins may or may not be the actual builder for their 'kits'. Outside vendors probably fill the bill. Nothing wrong with that, quality wise. There are certainly less expensive suppliers out there, I've used FP diesel quite a bit on various ag and stationary engines. There are a lot of different names-on-the-box out there, I wonder if most originate from the same place! If you are just going for a stocker type engine, I'd say 'aftermarket' boxed components will be adequate. In fact, if you are going for the 'high water' mark, there are components that are probably better suited than original Cummins. Start talking to your machine shop guy! ( no doubt he's done a 'few' by now, and can see what works, or doesn't cut the mustard.) If you use his machine shop for the actual machining, usually they don't mark-up the kits. (mine doesn't) Believe me, they don't want to send out any job that 'comes back'

Fords are known 'side winders'.. when I can see the hub covers from the rear!

I'd say yes, to your fuel pressure drop from full to pert near empty. (the more 'foam' you are sucking, the less pressure overall) and with the straw 2 inches off the bottom, you are definitely in the 'foam'. LOL plus, you are correct on the hydraulic scenario.. your pump has more 'head', and it's efficiency is lower. I'd sure cut it at a slight angle, just for 'one less thing to happen'.. ie: bottom of tank getting sucked up and attaching itself to drawstraw. (whether it's pushed up from something you rubbed, or have a little too much vacuum and it's really hot.. flexi-tank) I don't think you would need a 45* angle, maybe half?

Other than bending the axle tube, how could they 'adjust' the rear? I realize if the axle isn't square in the frame, there is a little wiggle room on the spring perch, fore/aft.

it's never done it with a full tank? (major hint) is this when you are sitting or moving? have you ever seen a suction hose in any liquid> it tends to create a vortex/whirlpool effect. The shallower it is, the easier it is to pull air. Pretty sure you can't hear the whoosh when you are driving, but sure can 'see' it in the gauge. but I'd bet when you are accel-deccel, fuel is getting pretty shallow at times over the straw too. How did the straw get so high from the bottom? Is that what's recommended? sitting here, I can't visualize the location of the filler neck, and the pickup tube. I've wondered if the foamy return is getting dumped right on top of the straw. The AD demonstration video shows quite the blizzard of air and fuel going back through return. Is it cold enough to thicken the fuel enough... so the tiny bubbles can't rise before getting sucked up again?

are your power brakes working like they should? I too have replaced the pump a couple of times, mainly from leaks which ended up running the pump too low, and HOT... The last one from cardone had the extra filter screen in it.. I'm not sure if original had one. Take the fill cap off after running it for awhile, and see if the oil is all foamy. Each time my pumps were buzzing/moaning ... it was very frothy.

My edit feature is haywire... so here goes the 'pocket' behind the assembled diaphragm... does anything change if it moves in or out? possibly there just as a 'cushion/reservoir'.. the 3 'rollers' radially placed on the diaphragm... what do they ride on when assembled?

can you tell if that 'diaphragm' is there for 1. sealing. Does it have the capacity to seal itself both inner or outer diameter? Does it look like it could move along the shaft.. much like a piston in a clutch pack? 2. as a bushing. Plastic on one side for antifriction surface. Distributor is 'located' depth wise by this 'spacer'?

mike, is that 'diaphragm' that the guy is holding in the picture.... is NOT in the pump> you haven't seen it anywhere in your tear-down? It amazes me that 15 plus years AFTER it's debut, someone finally lifted the curtain/peeked up the skirt...

W&F: My MIL "Mother in law" not malfunction indicator light <<<<<<<< That is a VERY narrow line between the two! (TROUBLE CLOSE!! DANGER DANGER!!)

Hey, 'weed! you are the model of the respectful, courteous hunter, the type I'd let go anytime! I wish you could preach/teach this to all!