rancherman

Be aware there might be a clutch brake.. so when clutch is fully depressed, a brake will come into contact with the clutch disk! (that makes it almost impossible to shift w/o buzzing the gears)... but it sure speeds up stopping the disk to engage from neutral. (and holding the truck on a hill whilst stopped) 3 legs no longer needed~ I had a heck of a time before I realized pressing the clutch harder made it worse! If yours does, find the sweet spot in the middle!

what's your blow by doing?

" I've wondered that too; are the guys running propane figuring in that fuel with their diesel fuel consumed?? Propane around here is 1.05 gallon (bulk). I have a couple JD 4020's that are propane powered, I fill them out of our 1000 gallon tank. Also have a 8.3 litre chevy power unit that pumps irrigation that is on propane. All in all, those rigs will burn about 50% more gallons of C3H8 than similar hp diesel engines. For me, the 1.05 propane is more economical. Diesel would have to be 1.60 or less.

Thanks, but I think I'll go ahead and cobble up this FP100 on the outside of the frame... Looks like right beside the tank and as high as possible. I'll have about a 12 inch suction line then! Found a couple of holes already in the frame to mount my shop-made bracket, then the factory hanger will bolt to that. I'll keep the big line (from the filter to VP) That came with my FRRP, I see the FP100 came with the 15 lb spring installed and my bag of goodies includes a 17 lb too. Should I go ahead and swap now?

Got mine from gould's gear and electric. I got the install CD, and the seal install guides for about 59 bucks..http://www.ebay.com/itm/DODGE-RAM-CUMMINS-DIESEL-VACUUM-PUMP-SEAL-KIT-/221244948970?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item33833a01ea&vxp=mtr

decisions, decisions! Does anyone have info on these 'bad' AD's: different color, serial #'s affected.. etc? Or Do I just install the dumb thing and wait for it to fail, and hope the warrantied replacement is of the newer/better design? ( I hear/read AD fixed the problem ) - - - Updated - - - Lets see what a regular cab, with NV5600 has for clearance, shall we?? 5600's are about 6 inches longer than 4500's. so, with the approximately 5 inch gap between the tank and the transfer case, I'm pretty much screwed for mounting the fp100 there. Next best place I can see is the outside of the frame rail, right beside the tank. It is higher there, BUT, the plastic mounting plates are too short for that section of frame rail. I'll have to move forward to the narrower part (and lower to ground) right under cab. I could make some new mounting plates which would let me use the higher section. Either way, a splash/rock box for protection will be needed. I am open for any other suggestions too: Please, I've got no room in the glove box!

well, mission accomplished. All the cows are delivered. Truck ran flawlessly pulling over 20k for 150 miles this morning, using the old carter oem FP. I do have a brand new AD100 in the box, I never installed it because (it's really tight between the transfer case and fuel tank) and a regular cab. But, that pump is new enough that it's probably one of the 'poorer/cheapened-up models'. I wonder if I should sell it, and go with another brand? I don't plan on keeping the old carter installed very long!

Good thing I never throw anything away! I put the stock pump back on, and so far so good. A little bird tells me I need my butt kicked for never installing a FP gauge.. The 'old' Carter sounds much healthier than the 'new' AD. I wish I could've amp'd it while it was still installed, and hot... speaking of hot, I couldn't tell you if it was just hot from it's proximity to the block, (and soaked heat while it was shut off for 15 minutes) or if it was drawing that many amps to make heat. I have about the same number of loads tomorrow, and it's supposed to be pretty warm again. - - - Updated - - - If I understand Mike correctly, there is a separate circuit (keyed) for that initial 'run pump while cranking' much like the old gm's that had a bypass 12 volt-to-distributor to ensure the coil had the full 12 volts while the starter was engaged. Now, If my pump is/was dragging, there may have not been enough amps (ecm supplied) to run it, but the 'keyed' circuit may have been enough to power it up. It only ran while the starter was engaged.

Got the cows unloaded before they got too hot.. I been hauling short trips to pasture all day, and this last load I got up on the road, and it was bucking all over the place.... clouds of blue/gray smoke. I shut it down and bumped the starter. No lift pump. I opened up the drain ____, and get a good stream only while the starter is engaged.. no 30 second run-on. The air dog was extremely hot. After half hour of open hood cool down, it started to pump again. Engine ran perfect (no smoke and easily rapped up to 3500 ) then about 30 seconds later, the pump shut down again. Mike, if that ecm is junk... it won't give me momentary on-off like this will it? - - - Updated - - - Really???? "Drain-Kock" gets 'Bleeped'???

For me, and the heavy loads and hills in my area, the extra gear is nice. it fills the big gap the 5 speed has. I've driven both with same loads. I also didn't want to fight the 'nut' either! I did a 'overfill' mod on the case of the 5600, (drilled and tapped the case for a higher oil level) So far, so good. But, If and when the 5600 goes down, I'll either go G56 or Fuller

G56 trans are an all aluminum case. Stock to mild horsepower increases should be ok.. there are external girdles to add to the cases' stiffness..:spend: But i'd think you would need over 500 hp before going down that route. How the high horsepower is used makes a big difference on trans life. You will need the wide crossmember for either the G56 or the Nv5600. Some 4500's came with either the narrow or the wide. The G56 is about 6 inches longer than the Nv. I considered going with either the G56 or the 5600 (it depended on what came available and cheapest first!) I eventually got the NV5600. Some days you can find a good price on a g56, other days the Nv will surface. The G56 is a somewhat 'louder' transmission, It has straighter cut gears than the nv's. It also had a ring ding ding in neutral. (normal) For all out racing, sledding, mudding it'll take big bucks to keep the '56 alive, but for intelligent high load/horsepower use, It's sufficient. It's the case on the '56 that is the weak link, whereas the internals on the NV's are the culprit.

waiting,waiting,waiting...:banghead: I HOPE this thing is delivered soon~ I'll get pics then~

Ha Ha. Depends on how well it works this weekend! You might get it pretty cheap! But if it does a really good job, I might be pretty protective of it.. I finally got ahold of a 'live' person at the shipping, and they verified it's in transit. My birds are so dang big, they are starting to Chuck Norris the shed. Good thing this plucker can handle a small turkey!

you are right, 500 bucks would buy a lot of chicken! We've done about 100 birds a year for the last 30 years... and I am SOOO done doing it by hand.... almost makes me look forward to the 'next' 30 years! I finally got my shipping notice from the supplier, should have my picker Thursday or Friday. Soon as it's delivered, it'll be schuckin' feathers asap!

wrapping my head around this... a poor ground is causing the indicator driver to not fully snap ON or OFF.. but is buzzing somewhere in the middle? Then, possibly a 'new' ground, via electric window circuit is causing his light to lite?

I ordered the ez98 yesterday, and said it'd ship same day. It comes out of Ohio, so hopefully I'll see it early next week. out of the 100, I think there are about 10 that are so big they barely can walk... I might just get started on those big-uns this weekend. yep, the old fashioned way.... I could 'rent' this machine to ya.. I see they have a little different water temp they recommend for scalding.. they want about 145-150* water, and about a 45 second dunk time. I've always had close-to-boiling-if-not-boiling for a 10-15 second swim.

I think that would give you a nice contrast. It would be either shinier or duller than the rockers, plus the extra texture. It would break up the monotony.. maybe throw a smidge of white pigment in for a dark gray? The extra crumb would be a nice anti slip for when you are standing on the front bumper, working on your engine!

I suppose 'elevator music' is more publicly allowable... (these days) than say, Freddie kruger spool-up melody! Me, I'd opt for the "Flight of the Valkyrie" (Apocalypse Now) It amazes me how many people on Youtube think the chicken is still alive during the scalding/plucking process! (dumbasses) Probably think their chicken comes from Mc'ds anyways...

Mike, if you had tv, you would get a chuckle out of the advertisement for KFC chicken: "I ate the bones??? I ate the bones!!! (geez, I hate that commercial for their boneless chicken)

ok, you've probably isolated the noise. a rotational buzz/vibration going straight makes me wonder if it's something other than the diff clutch. You might have a bad diff bearing, or outer rear axle bearing, and the new oil is going to mask the problem... for awhile. How warm are your differentials after say a 20-30 mile jog? They should be good and warm.. at the center section... check your outside hubs too (rear) Although, a bad diff bearing will cause the gear alignment to change, and those babies will start to howl on either acceleration or deceleration... Did you happen to really inspect the old oil for metal? A bad pinion bearing should knock the seal out pretty quick... and you'll have leaking oil. Another thought: I just got back from a long road trip last week, and I suddenly had a alarming buzz coming from the front end. ( I thought I was screwed). It was only the inner fender well blowing back onto the tire! Dang plastic rivets broke loose!

#240 difference... you sure you didn't hop out of the truck while it was getting weighed the first time? I'm guessing you had a full length truck pad, make sure you have the weighed axle on as far the pad without having the other axle onboard. Then, if you can, don't drive ahead to weigh the rear axle from other end of pad. (back up, turn around and back onto the scale to weigh the rear axle.) Your rear axle will be in same spot as front was.

shared weight by both axles? was the approach to the scale perfectly level, or was the actual weigh pad elevated somewhat?

:thumb1: Amen to that, Brother! I won't even attempt to split American red elm unless it's 0* or colder!

was this the whole tree or just a limb they cut off? years ago, they came and chopped down a tree I purposely planted under the line leading to the house. I told them I was going to build a new house right beside my old place, and the line would be re routed long before that tree would be an issue. I got 1200 bucks compensation! (not bad for a 3 inch sapling!)... They apparently have insurance for these kind of issues.. But, in the end, they got almost all of it back when I did have them move the line anyways!

It's that time of the year again.... stand around and hand pick 100 broilers. Boy, am I ready to 'mechanize' this part of the operation! Been looking at either EZ plucker rotary drum chicken plucker or buy the parts to make a Whiz-bang. (very similar to each other in design). I can 'pick' a chicken in 10-12 minutes, but these things can have 90-95% of the feathers removed on 2 birds in 20 seconds. Anyone here have experience with these contraptions?